- 2,898
- London
- GTP_Synwraith
Ford Focus ST Seasonal Challenge Rigged???
- Thread starter rayster
- 292 comments
- 50,155 views
Did that, and tried about 6 different degrees of F/R balance and various levels of stiffness. Also lowered the front more than the rear to bias the weight forward.
Bottom line, the Focus plows like a work horse and will never feel as nimble as an Elise because of the drive layout. You'll be able to tune out most, but not all of the understeer. In the end, get the tune to a point where you are comfortable and then get to work on your gear ratios and practice.
I went out 1:44, and then ran 4 successive 1:42s and still lost by 1 second.
- 2,898
- London
- GTP_Synwraith
Yep, unzip it on your PC using WINZIP or a similar program, then use a USB stick to transfer to your PS3. You may want to just transfer the replay folder which can be found in the SAVEDATA folder. Copy that file into your Save Data folder on XMB on the PS3 and view in your GT5 replay theatre.
All the best
Maz
Investigated the event and learned that unless you're doing 1.42 sec, or so you're never going to win without SRF. The fastest I could go was 1.43 and thought did my best, but there are factors that need to be taken in, for example the other cars help you go faster a bit when you're behind, but they also get in the way. The other thing which is bad is the tyre wear, the last laps I was not improving over the leader and the fact is he is going really well with that focus, so unless you're a pro and know what you are doing and also got luck, never gonna happen.
- 2
- CoachHoach
Using one of the setups posted in this thread and a DFGT, the best lap times I could manage were around a 1:44.5ish without SRF and 1:41.5ish with it on. I think I was about 6 or 8 seconds away from 1st without SRF, and a solid 4 in front with SRF. I wish it didn't make such a big difference, but man I still can't drive that thing well without it.
- 10
- yohan81718
i think you need to pull 1:43 every lap to win this race.
i think i did
1st lap - 1:43 mid
2nd - 3lap - 1.42 upper
4th lap - 1:43 mid (and i was first place and the last circular section)
once you are first, it's easy to block them off, so it's whatevers from here on
i think i did
1st lap - 1:43 mid
2nd - 3lap - 1.42 upper
4th lap - 1:43 mid (and i was first place and the last circular section)
once you are first, it's easy to block them off, so it's whatevers from here on
- 16
- gbabysurfer
This was easy for because I learned that it is faster to shift about 750rpm before the recline and that dropped my times alot and I was running 1:41 times.
Gotta try that, sounds strange as the more rpm the more power, but as frustrated as I am I am a bit on the other side of logical right now.
- 316
- Britvic
You can also downshift really quick as the game doesnt model your gearbox being destroyed! Gives your a little bit of extra engine braking.
- 16
- gbabysurfer
I think it is because it has more torque then power. Also I bumped up the gear ratio for a couple more mph and that also allowed to use more of the torque. Maybe not even 750 rpm maybe 500 somewere around there and I went in the lead at lap 4.
- 23
- RACING_1750
- ihiggins v12
Did it last night.
average lap time 1.43
was so happy when I did it
average lap time 1.43
was so happy when I did it
shirakawaa
Premium
- 5,034
- GTP_shirakawaa
That Ford Focus ST has in real life a weight distribution of 63:37, it wouldn't make sense to make the front softer than the rear as it wouldn't be balanced at all. I'm wondering about the default setup in the game, why is it much closer to 50:50 than what the actual weight distribution would suggest? I wonder if PD got the specifications right.
There would be no doubts about this matter if weight distribution data (and an option to add a ballast like in GT4) were available in-game.
There would be no doubts about this matter if weight distribution data (and an option to add a ballast like in GT4) were available in-game.
- 7,834
- Leiria
- jpfctf
- jpfctf
I actually can't understand how a Focus - a class reference of handling for modern FF cars, with its sublime chassis with neutral/oversteery attitude - handles like crap in GT5.
In fact, pretty much all FF cars I tried so far do. And they all feel and drive the same.
I don't remember this happening in GT4.
shirakawaa
Premium
- 5,034
- GTP_shirakawaa
Although the most I've been able to do with skid recovery off is 5.4 seconds from the 1st place, I have some hints:
Shift gear at most at 6000 rpm. 6200 maximum in first and maybe second gear.
Brake Balance 3/10 or 3/9. The front wheels are already too much loaded as they are, this help redistributing the load to the real wheels which otherwise would be most of the time cold.
Aero settings: 0/10 (0/5 could be probably a better choice. Or no wing at all)
Ride height -20/-20.
Spring stiffness 12.0/9.8 . This is based on a 55:45 car weight distribution including the pilot.
Damper (bump/rebound) 7/5 front and 5/6 rear
Stabilizers 1/4
Toe 0.0/-0.65 <- rear toe out helps big time. Possibly more can be useful too.
Front toe has to be a trade off between grip at corner entry or corner exit, so I set it at 0.
Camber 2.5/2.0 (although without detailed tire temperatures there's no way to tell what is the optimal setting. this seemed good to me, could be probably better).
LSD: 10/15/5
Gear setting: the minimum speed setting which allows to reach in practice mode top speed at about 6000 rpm on Madrid. Sorry, I don't remember exactly what I set and can't turn on the PS3 right now.
With consistent driving and lap times at or below 1:43 it should be possible to end in first place by the 5 laps allowed.
Theoretically I could win a gold, but I'm not consistent enough unfortunately.
Shift gear at most at 6000 rpm. 6200 maximum in first and maybe second gear.
Brake Balance 3/10 or 3/9. The front wheels are already too much loaded as they are, this help redistributing the load to the real wheels which otherwise would be most of the time cold.
Aero settings: 0/10 (0/5 could be probably a better choice. Or no wing at all)
Ride height -20/-20.
Spring stiffness 12.0/9.8 . This is based on a 55:45 car weight distribution including the pilot.
Damper (bump/rebound) 7/5 front and 5/6 rear
Stabilizers 1/4
Toe 0.0/-0.65 <- rear toe out helps big time. Possibly more can be useful too.
Front toe has to be a trade off between grip at corner entry or corner exit, so I set it at 0.
Camber 2.5/2.0 (although without detailed tire temperatures there's no way to tell what is the optimal setting. this seemed good to me, could be probably better).
LSD: 10/15/5
Gear setting: the minimum speed setting which allows to reach in practice mode top speed at about 6000 rpm on Madrid. Sorry, I don't remember exactly what I set and can't turn on the PS3 right now.
With consistent driving and lap times at or below 1:43 it should be possible to end in first place by the 5 laps allowed.
Theoretically I could win a gold, but I'm not consistent enough unfortunately.
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- 1,328
I actually don't think it handles bad, it is pretty neutral and doesn't have terminal understeer.
You won't find a hot hatch on market which has neutral oversteer, it may have an active rear end that follows the front, but rea letting go before the front does isn't ideal for a stock setup that your grandma might one day drive.
After six hours of attempting this on Sunday, with probably 50 different tuning combinations, I asked myself, "Am I having fun finishing 1-3 seconds back every race?" My answer was a resounding NO. Keep in mind, I managed a 1:44 on the opening lap and successive 1:42s only to get shunted into the barrier by the AI Focus on the final chicane on my closest attempt. After checking the forums I discovered that SRF would provide a quick cure. With no desire to continue fussing with this challenge (and knowing the Mazda Challenge was going to be even more difficult) I flipped on SRF and passed the AI Focus on lap 4. I have great respect for those that accomplished this without SRF, but browbeating those who used SRF is more than a little pompous.
Besides, this isn't really a race anyway, it's a pattern recognition exercise. There is no variable to the outcome. If you don't win, the AI focus does. For example the Audi A3 doesn't have a chance, and you never see even see the Civic R win. I'm not discounting it as a challenge, but it is not a true race.
Besides, this isn't really a race anyway, it's a pattern recognition exercise. There is no variable to the outcome. If you don't win, the AI focus does. For example the Audi A3 doesn't have a chance, and you never see even see the Civic R win. I'm not discounting it as a challenge, but it is not a true race.
- 535
- p-coletrey
Before reading this, I was a distant third place. After following this, I won it by 2 seconds. The built into the game "help files" are vague and useless regarding suspension/drivetrain setup. I guess I have to get an apex book. Where and how much was yours? In a million years I wouldn't have discovered the massive changes when correct settings are applied. It's like I changed cars completely.
I've managed to overtake the bastard When I got to the finish line I had 01.356s of overtime.
Race settings: ABS 5, Skid: ON, rest of stuff OFF
Car settings:
Brakes: without change
Suspension: height -20mm both, spring rate F 11.0, R 9.0, dampers - both settings F/R 3, anti-roll bars F/R 3, camber F 1.5, R 3.5, toe F 0.00, R 0.20
Gearbox set to 210 km/h
Custom LSD mounted but without changes
When I got to the finish line I had 01.356s of overtime.Race settings: ABS 5, Skid: ON, rest of stuff OFF
Car settings:
Brakes: without change
Suspension: height -20mm both, spring rate F 11.0, R 9.0, dampers - both settings F/R 3, anti-roll bars F/R 3, camber F 1.5, R 3.5, toe F 0.00, R 0.20
Gearbox set to 210 km/h
Custom LSD mounted but without changes
- 4,004
- Croatia
Your set-up described above is PERFECT.
Thank you Akira, you managed to transfer real-life expertise of particular model onto in-game vehicle.
After I changed way to shift, changed brake-bias as you described and modified LSD set-up I managed to drive constant 1:42 laps (even 1.41.8xx) with no problems.
Easy win after few days of trouble. G25, all asst-off, ABS 1. Thank you very much 👍
shirakawaa
Premium
- 5,034
- GTP_shirakawaa
Nice to know that it worked for you.
Did you apply other settings too or only brake balance, lsd and shifting strategy?
By the way, I meant:
* * *
With more advanced telemetry (not even that much, if only timestamps were more detailed when zooming the scale! I can't believe that PD missed out this) or thrust curves charts it would be easy to find out the optimal shifting points, like this one (but possibly bigger with a more detailed grid/scale):
PD should really add an Expert/Pro option to enable detailed technical settings and information for those able to understand them. Their lack is frustrating
- 4,004
- Croatia
Only those, everything else was previously fitted for my way of driving (suspension and camber which I always tune to full-grip and always nullify oversteer/understeer).
BUt LSD setting made wonders to traction while shifting allowed usage of 3rd gear-torque in accelerating. Combined with LSD setting it shaved 2 seconds instantly.
Explanation of brake-balance setting was also great, previously I used 7/4 (I presumed the load on front wheels while breaking will be heavier due to front-mounted engine) but I never took balance of the weight into equation.
Thanx, great work 👍
shirakawaa
Premium
- 5,034
- GTP_shirakawaa
Regarding brake balance, I did initially set it to 7/3 too but I found out that for some reason on corner entry just after breaking the front tires always kept overheating (red in the tire temperature chart), while rear tires were always cool (deep blue), so I thought it would have been a good idea to transfer some of the excessive front braking power to the underused rear axle.
It seems a counterintuitive setting, though. Maybe it's got something to do with the way the ABS works in GT5 (which is excessively good), I should try a bit without.
It seems a counterintuitive setting, though. Maybe it's got something to do with the way the ABS works in GT5 (which is excessively good), I should try a bit without.
- 4,004
- Croatia
I agree, but I think that settings maybe takes actual brake-size (raw braking power of calipers per axle) into initial calculation of BB.
Focus ST have 320 x 25mm front and 280 x 11mm rear discs.
If you apply the logic of actual 4/9 setting needed to provide optimal braking-power it turns out that raw braking-power of every discs (per axle) could be the key for brake-bias setting.
