GDII's SW20 MR2

  • Thread starter GDII
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Covered the sun damaged window sill trim in black vinyl. Looks way better.

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Haven't done much on the MR2 lately. Doesn't get driven much anymore.

Today I took the engine lid strut brackets off and tidied them up for painting. I used duplicolor metalcast paint with metallic silver basecoat. Also wrapped the gas strut in CF vinyl to match the engine bay cross brace. Still haven't reinstalled it as I am waiting 7 days for the paint to fully cure.

Terrible cellphone picture.

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Also figured out why I thought my gearbox syncros were stuffed, the gear linkage bushes were worn so the gear lever wouldn't move the selector arms on the gearbox far enogh to change gears properly. Will be sorting that soon. Did a temp fix with insulation tape to increase the ID of the bushes. No more crunching.
 
GDII
Also figured out why I thought my gearbox syncros were stuffed, the gear linkage bushes were worn so the gear lever wouldn't move the selector arms on the gearbox far enogh to change gears properly. Will be sorting that soon. Did a temp fix with insulation tape to increase the ID of the bushes. No more crunching.

Ouch, I was wondering what had happened to the MR2. Hope you can get her fixed as painlessly as possible.
 
Trying to figure out what to do next. I can fix the gearbox problem with skateboard bearings to replace the worn bushes. That is easy. But the engine is the next thing. I can get a GEN3 3S-GE and swap it in with some repinning of the GEN2 ECU plugs. Or I can rebuild the current GEN2 3S-GE. Either way the engine has to come out to do the work.

I still drive the car in the weekend, it still goes. I will be getting new OEM Bilstein shocks soon. Should help with the ride quality. Just debating whether to get new bumpstops ($224) and new braided brake lines at the same time. I'm not too impressed with my brakes, they could do with an overhaul too.
 
That would be a good idea but will cost a lot more than I am willing to spend at the moment. The wiring is a lot more complicated than the GEN3 swap as well.
 
If the Gen2 3SGE is anything like the Gen2 3SGTE, you're better off running the Gen3 3SGE ECU. It is more modern so it should run better. I'm not too familiar with the 3SGE as the only version we got here was the Gen1 in the ST164 Celica GT-S.

And well, at least your MR2 doesn't have a HFH or HFHOE to deal with. One of mine blew out. The shifter bushings are an easy fix, I have brass ones in mine but I might get the roller bearing ones. I think someone makes them in Delrin too.
 
I did those hoses as a preventative measure when I had the turbo off, and they were still a pain!

I assume you want to stay N/A to avoid paying for the extra stuff you'd need to go down the turbo route. As far as sticking to the 3SGE, unless you have the money to swap in a BEAMS I would just stick with the Gen 2 and spend the money on some Kelford cams :)
 
I would get the GEN3 ECU too. But I can use the GEN2 loom as it has all the wires, just needs repining.

I may not have a turbo but I still have HFH, the heater hoses run over the fuel tank, one cracked so I had to remove the tank and fix that. Not an easy thing in an SW20, also had 30litres of petrol in it still.

I want to stay NA. I don't need more power yet. Making it handle would be where my money would go first. But if the engine dies I can't make it handle. :lol: I should start doing Autocross when I sort the shocks. Then I'll do the engine.

Most of my money just went on a custom engagement ring that I designed myself and a proposal involving a helicopter. I think I spent the good part of a GEN4/5 turbo SW20 on that. Was worth it though.
 
Picked up a factory power aerial from a mate as mine was stuffed when I bought the car so binned it. My factory stereo system has been messed with so I spent a few hours searching around the car to what had been done. Looked at a wiring diagram and worked out what wires I needed to power with the new headunit. Was a bit of messing around but in the end I figured it out. Aerial goes up when headunit on and down when off. Unfortunately the headunit only has an amp switch wire so it powers the aerial no matter what input is used, CD, Radio and AUX. Having an aerial switch wire from the headunit would allow the aerial go up only with Radio. I could put in a switch to override it but not too concerned yet.
 
Congrats on the engagement mate! Have you done it yet? I would definitely put a switch on that aerial remote wire, I can't stand my aerial being up in general, having it up unnecessarily would really send me over the edge lol. First world problems and all that.

I like the small touches you are doing. If someone were to tell me they put carbon fibre vinyl on stuff I would be pretty skeptical but you have pulled it off nicely.
 
I haven't put the switch in as I don't like odd switches in the cabin but I do have a spare factory switch for the old remote locking that I could use. Might be best as I'm the same as you, don't like the aerial sticking up. It only goes up part way as it's a bit stuck but suits me fine.

Thanks, I quite like the small things I've been doing. I agree with you on the carbon fibre vinyl, it's sort of pointless doing it as the purpose of carbon fibre is to make things light. It does quite well on the front lip. Every time I scrape the bottom I can just add some more over the damage. The black gloss vinyl has fixed up all the faded black trim. No need to put tyre shine on those parts anymore.

Also finished the engine lid gas strut brackets.





 
My brother made me some gear shifter bearings from Phosphor Bronze. Current rubber ones are worn. I will have to remove the gear linkage cables but they are proving hard to remove the clips off the gearbox.

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I might be able to get some spherical bearings instead. Just need to size them correctly as they aren't the right size.
 
Decided to install the new struts today.

Old vs New
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This shows how worn the existing struts were. I fully compressed the piston and only 2 extended back but were very slow. Took a hour to extend right back.

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New nuts and bolts.

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Also replaced the worn bush. Its not really doing its job. The new one binds up in 1st gear but I will be replacing that with a sphereical bearing to stop that.
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It does handle better. Keeps the tyres on the road when you need it. It is still a harsh ride but you only feel the immediate bump rather than feeling it 2-3 times more after you hit it. The car has less roll and pitch which is nice. Needs a wheel alignment too.

Next thing to do is get another engine. I have narrowed it down to a GEN3 3S-GE or an ST215 Caldina GTT engine with factory ECU. I don't need anymore than 256fwhp.

I am also quite interested in new Whiteline sway bars. Giving better handling without the need to increase spring rate. I also noticed that the later GEN models have been lowered 10mm with slightly stiffer springs. If I can get a set of these springs it should improve the car for road use.
 
If you do go for a 3SGTE, if you aren't modifying it for any more power why not just stick with one from an MR2? That way you won't have to mess around with piping to suit the intercooler etc as the gen 4 has a side entry manifold. Also, the gen 4 has COP ignition so you won't be able to run the factory tachometer.
 
They are harder to find but if I can get one I will. Need to save up first so it won't be for awhile.

EDIT: Caldina engines are more powerful, newer and more around. One thing I haven't checked is the gearbox, being 4WD, not sure if they can be made to work in 2WD.
 
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That's probably correct. I will need a turbo box and drive shafts with turbo hubs. E153 gearbox I think. My S54 will blow up plus the gear ratios are too close for the turbo engine.
 
The Gen 4 does make more power but I'm just saying that you will have issues with the actual fitment of it. A Gen 3 makes similar power and has a lot less headaches to get it to actually work without reinventing the wheel, so to speak. I mean go for it if you want, but you will have a lot more wiring issues as you will need to effectively make a loom to suit the COP etc, and the intake manifold won't suit your throttle cable, piping, etc.

In my opinion if you aren't modifying to make more power it isn't worth it as the gain from going N/A to turbo will be big enough, and Gen 3s and 2s serve as the base for a lot of big power builds anyway.

The only thing I want from a Gen 4 is the intake manifold, as it is side entry so it's better suited for top mount piping, and the fact that it's factory COP so it has a crank sensor, but that can be fitted on a Gen 3. The Gen 3 has stronger rods, the turbo and manifold are seperate as opposed to the single piece found on the gen 4.

The heads are similar and if both were given a port and cam work they would be pretty much neck and neck.
 
Are you a member of mr2oc?

Possibly. Can't remember which MR2 websites I'm on.

The Gen 4 does make more power but I'm just saying that you will have issues with the actual fitment of it. A Gen 3 makes similar power and has a lot less headaches to get it to actually work without reinventing the wheel, so to speak. I mean go for it if you want, but you will have a lot more wiring issues as you will need to effectively make a loom to suit the COP etc, and the intake manifold won't suit your throttle cable, piping, etc.

In my opinion if you aren't modifying to make more power it isn't worth it as the gain from going N/A to turbo will be big enough, and Gen 3s and 2s serve as the base for a lot of big power builds anyway.

The only thing I want from a Gen 4 is the intake manifold, as it is side entry so it's better suited for top mount piping, and the fact that it's factory COP so it has a crank sensor, but that can be fitted on a Gen 3. The Gen 3 has stronger rods, the turbo and manifold are seperate as opposed to the single piece found on the gen 4.

The heads are similar and if both were given a port and cam work they would be pretty much neck and neck.

You make a really good point. I can see how a Caldina 3SGTE would make things complicated. A GEN3 turbo engine would be fine then.

Time to do my research on what I need to do this swap and put a budget together.
 
I have been slowly developing custom front brake duct intakes that go in place of the spot lights. I honestly have no idea on how affective they will be but seeing as I have no spot lights I thought I'd give it a go. Even if it's just visual, I will have learnt how to create fiberglass moulds and parts. I will need to figure out the best way to run the pipe and probably have to modify the stone covers behind the discs.

Taped up the bumper to use as the first mould, filled with expandable foam.



Filled with foam then shaped with kraft knife and sandpaper. I am at the point where I am covering it with bogg and reshaping it to get a smooth surface for paint and wax. Then I will create a mould from this and make parts from it. Need to make the other side too.





 
Fibreglass has been in my mind for a while now too. I looked pretty deeply into the moulding process from foam to finished and the stuff is amazing. Can't wait to see how those ducts come out, looking pretty nice so far. 👍
 
Thanks Hayden

This will be a long term project. I don't actually need to cool my brakes as I don't go on the track (yet) but I have a friend who does and wants some. I will need to get them fitting properly first. The inside edge closest to the number plate isn't perfect yet but I will fix that while I add more bog. All a big learning curve but I feel it's worth it in the end.
 
GDII
I will get some liquid shoe shine/Polish to colour the white cracked leather. I just want them to be black again. Not much I can do about the leather condition

That will stain your clothes bro

I finally got around to buying the shoe shine, it worked great, soaked in and dried quickly, nothing left to stain my clothes, plus it looks much better.
 
Installed new spherical bearings into the shifter cables.

New bearing, solid bush(don't use these, they don't work), solid bush removal tool. All made by my brother.

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New bearings pressed in. Much better feel in the gear shifter now.

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