GDII's SW20 MR2

  • Thread starter GDII
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Any updates on it? Really nice ride.

Thanks. I try to keep it looking good.

No updates that are exciting.

I managed to get air in the rear brakes after trying to adjust the handbrake. So I now have new fluid and brakes that work. 3 pistons were sticky but now work properly. The braking seems to be better now.

I have been thinking about the brake ducts, quite a lot of work left to finish one for creating a fibreglass part. I will have to continue with it as it could be good to make them work.
 
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Thanks. I try to keep it looking good.

No updates that are exciting. It just sits in the garage now. I cant afford to use it.

I managed to get air in the rear brakes after trying to adjust the handbrake. So I now have new fluid and brakes that work. 3 pistons were sticky but now work properly. The braking seems to be better now.

I have been thinking about the brake ducts, quite a lot of work left to finish one for creating a fibreglass part. I will have to continue with it as it could be good to make them work.

Sweet, that's a really clean car. Probably the best condition I've seen such a car in. Hope to buy one in a few years or a classic Celica Supra.
 
If you are thinking of going 3SGTE, go Gen3. The big deal breaker between the Gen3 and Gen4 is the trans. With a Gen4 swap you either reuse your E153 or S54. Both have VERY similar power output, but the Gen4 spools quicker due to the integrated exhaust manifold and turbo.

If you want a plug and play deal with little to no extras required, go Gen3.

Gen4 requires a custom downpipe, custom engine harness with tach adaptor, custom intercooler piping. The Gen4 engine is cheaper, but the amount of money spent on parts the total swap is more than a Gen3 clip.

I've been back and forth about my Gen2, or a Gen3 or Gen4 swap. I decided to stay with my Gen2 in the end. Gen4 requires too much work, maintenance parts are much, much harder to get in the US (wouldn't be a problem for you, however), and required parts for the swap bring it into Gen3 clip pricing. I could buy a Gen3 clip, but I don't have big power goals and the Gen2 is capable of the power I want.
 
You make some very good points. I don't think I will be doing this for over a year now. If I can get an ST205/GEN3 turbo SW20 to swap the engine from it will help. I don't think an S54 gearbox would hold the power of a turbo engine. I will need the E153 no matter what I do.
 
Dragged it out of the garage for a wash.

PHOTO_20140511_130103_zpsd9e6bfbf.jpg
 
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Not much has happened to the car lately, just an oil change to some 15W40.

Yesterday I went over to a mates place to help him with his MR2. The car he has ran a bearing before he bought it so he got it cheap, the NA engine was taken out a few months ago for the GEN 2 turbo engine to go in. So we took the fuel tank out while the engine was still out and replaced the fuel pump with the turbo one. Put the tank back in and started moving the new engine into place. Lifted up the car and dragged the engine with gearbox and axles underneath on some thick cardboard, dropped the car back down and lifted the engine into place. Next we bolted the sub frame in, reinstalled the hubs and suspension, put the wheels back on and pushed it back into the garage. Successful day and good practice for when I get around to doing my car.

I have narrowed down my options for engines that I could use.

Option 1: GEN 3 3S-GE and ECU with the possibility of a matching gearbox.
Option 2: GEN 3 3S-GTE with E153 gearbox, loom and ECU. I'd be pretty happy with stock power from this engine so no need to modify this.

Option 3: Which is more a possibility rather than something I would do is a GEN 4 3S-GTE. I could pick up a wrecked Caldina for cheap and make some money back on parts that I wouldn't use. I'd still need a turbo gearbox and a few other parts.
 
Planning converting to a GEN 3 3S-GTE, but depending on what comes up a GEN 4 ST215 or ST246 could work if I can get a whole car. Or spend less and do an easier GEN 3 3S-GE swap. But before that I will sort out the handling and refresh old bushes and possibly get bigger brakes. Maybe get some KONI adjustable shocks, Eibach springs and Whiteline sway bars.

Today I though I would try some Meguiars SwirlX to fix up the swirl marks in the paint. Seems to work quite well. The bonnet is the worst part as it is a large flat panel and marks show up easily.

Excuse the paint damage to the front bumper. Driveways, stone chips and SUV drivers caused that.



 
Spent a lot of today going over the right hand side of the car with T-Cut Colour Restorer to remove the medium depth scratches, then Swirl X to remove the smaller scratches, then turtle wax super hard shell to slow the oxidising of the paint. It's not perfect and there are still small scratches visible but not as bad as before. The deep scratches are still there too. No photos as I couldn't actually get any to show the difference. It already looked good from about 1m away but any closer and you could see all the minor scratches which are mostly gone now. Still have 3/4 of the car to do. Doing it by hand takes awhile.
 
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That's what I would have gotten for mine! But I'm too far gone into keeping the Gen2 in mine. I have a new CT20b, 540cc Gen3 injectors, and ATS Racing bored fuel rail and modded FPR. All waitingto be installed :/
 
Just trawling through MR2OC.COM and found this photo. This is almost exactly what I want my car to look like minus the side skirts. Simple and still keeps the factory look.

mr444_zps84421320.png


GEN3 3SGTE with turbo engine lid
GEN3 rear spoiler
17x8 +37 and 17x9 +38 Advan RGII wheels in gold EDIT: the wheels on this car are Advan RG rather than RGII, they have the dark ring around the outside of the spokes.
Larger GEN2/3 brakes
Eibach Pro Kit springs
Some form of adjustable or fixed rate dampers to match the springs.
Whiteline sway bars.

Dreams are free :roll: :lol:
 
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Just trawling through MR2OC.COM and found this photo. This is almost exactly what I want my car to look like minus the side skirts. Simple and still keeps the factory look.

mr444_zps84421320.png


GEN3 3SGTE with turbo engine lid
GEN3 rear spoiler
17x8 +45 and 17x9 +38 Advan RGII wheels in gold
Larger GEN2/3 brakes
Eibach Pro Kit springs
Some form of adjustable or fixed rate dampers to match the springs.
Whiteline sway bars.

Dreams are free :roll: :lol:
Just Gorgeous. You honestly don't need a kit for a mr2.

It's not on Coilovers??? You have any more pictures of it or link to his photos?
 
Just Gorgeous. You honestly don't need a kit for a mr2.

It's not on Coilovers??? You have any more pictures of it or link to his photos?
It could be on coilovers. That list is just a quick overview of the mods I'd like to do to my car rather than what is on that one. Coilovers might be a go with my car if I need to certify for the engine swap. Do all the certifiable mods at one go. But I don't want to go too low. The Eibach Pro Kit lowers 25mm rather than 35mm like the RSR springs I had. 35 was just too much.

Not sure if there are any more images, would be nice to know more about it.

EDIT: found his photobucket account.
http://s30.photobucket.com/user/bludeathx/media/mr2 4 sale/Photo4653.jpg.html
 
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No actual progress on my car but I've been learning about doing a turbo swap by helping a mate with the wiring on his MR2. It's not actually too complicated when you figure it out and start doing the job. Spent today checking all the wires with a multimeter to ensure I'd figured out what wires needed to go where.

Using the 1993 USA and Canada wiring diagrams for 3sgte and 5sfe helped a lot so I've figured most of it out without looking at the car. Now that I've looked at the car there were a few things different, which I expected as the car is a 1992 3sge from Japan and the engine going into it is from a 1990 3sgte from Japan. Hopefully next time I get back to the car I can join all the wires ready to start it once all the mechanical parts have been sourced.
 
That's OMGMR2's deuce. It's actually 17/18 double staggered Advan RGs, he parted that one out a while ago and got another.
 
That's OMGMR2's deuce. It's actually 17/18 double staggered Advan RGs, he parted that one out a while ago and got another.

After a bit of research I found that too but not the staggered diameter size. Not a fan of that. But that car still looks great. Lots of saving my money and I think I can get what I want.
 
While adding oil to the engine today I noticed the main pivot bolt on the alternator had come out. Thinking, OK I'll just bolt that back in, that was not to be. It just came out and the end had snapped off in the bracket.

Oh joy, I get to take off the giant bracket to drill out the snapped end. I had previously tried to take off the bracket but gave up after I realised how many bolts were holding it on and how hard they are to get at with a socket wrench.

So I continue to locate the 3 bolts and 2 nuts on the block that hold it in place. I removed the alternator first, relatively easy job as I've done it twice before about 6 years ago. This is where today's drama all started.

Turns out using all my extensions going up in front of the muffler and over the cross member is an easy way to get at the 2 nuts and 3rd bolt. Took out the bracket and drilled out the end of the pivot bolt. That came out easy which was nice. Then I proceeded to clean up the bracket and alternator itself. The bolt I have is still long enough to go back in but it's only a temp fix until I can find/buy another bolt.

Now here why I spent the afternoon under the MR2.
It all started not long after I bought the car, it was all going well and then the dash lights lit up. Must have been the alternator so limped home on a dying battery. Pulled it out and found the bushes were toast and so was the shaft. Got a great deal on a rebuilt version from Repco (great having family members working there at the time) and I put that in. Was working well until about a month later when the same symptoms arise. Dash lights on and low idle. Limped home again and pulled it out. Sent it back and got a new one. Turns out the capacitor went pop.

After that everything was fine until I realised I lost the pivot bolt while driving around at some point which means I hadn't tightened it up properly. Searched through my spare bolts and the only thing that would fit was a head bolt from my old 2E Corolla. I thought, great, it fits and left it at that.

Fast forward 6 years or so to today and that bolt had snapped halfway down the thread of the bracket. I thought, how odd, why after 6 years has it snapped when it fit fine when installed. Turns out a 2E head bolt is M9x1.25 where a proper bolt for this situation is an M10x1.25. M9 seems odd but it threads in still where an M8 won't hook up on the bracket thread at all. The bolt being that tiny bit smaller allowed for movement and eventually it gave up.

Broken bolt


Dirty bracket and alternator


Clean(er) alternator
 
Oh, the dreaded alternator. It's actually not as bad to do as what most people say about it :lol:. Strange that a M9 bolt would thread into a M10 hole though.

Oh and going back on your other post about those Advans, you'd probably really like this guy's two. http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=458026

And on another note, I sold all of my Gen2 goodies I was going to install. I'm swapping in a 2GR-FE 3.5L V6, I have the engine, harnesses and ECU.
 
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Oh, the dreaded alternator. It's actually not as bad to do as what most people say about it :lol:. Strange that a M9 bolt would thread into a M10 hole though.

Oh and going back on your other post about those Advans, you'd probably really like this guy's two. http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=458026

And on another note, I sold all of my Gen2 goodies I was going to install. I'm swapping in a 2GR-FE 3.5L V6, I have the engine, harnesses and ECU.
Yeah it's not that bad. Just looks bad if you haven't done it before.

Thanks, that's a really clean MR2 with great wheels.

Nice swap, there is one around here, it goes well but apparently doesn't feel as refined as the Aurion it came out of. I'm sure its still a great swap to do.

Helped out my mate again today and completed 99% of the wiring. Just the speed sensor left to wire in than all the mechanical stuff to get the turbo plumbed in.
 
Quick update. Headed to a local wreckers and grabbed a correct sized alternator bolt of an ST170 Corona when I was down there with a mate getting parts for his MR2.
 
The engine has been having cold start idle issues for quite awhile now. So I decided to pull off the IACV and clean it. I got as far as unbolting the throttle body and decided to stop there as the IACV has coolant lines hooked up to it. Sprayed almost a whole can of Brakleen into the throttle and IACV to clean out 24 years of oily dusty stuff.


Inside intake plenum.


Cleaner throttle body. It was black and had a big chunk of oily stuff covering the IACV intake port.


Top section of manifold and ACIS chamber removed.

After reassembling everything I started the engine and it jumped up to 1450rpm from cold and gradually slowed to 800rpm as it warmed to running temperature. Success :) until I restarted it this morning from cold. Back to low struggling cold idle. :(.

I will have to fully remove the IACV and clean it properly. I knew my half arsed method wouldn't work.

I think a catch can would help with all this oil in the intake and the smoke screens it leaves behind. I can only find one source of where oil can get from the valve cover to the intake and it's relatively clean. Are there any other ports I might be missing that carry oil vapour?

Good excuse to buy a GEN 3 turbo half cut I think. Just needs to hold on until March. Other than oil use the car is running great. Still very happy with it.
 
Took the throttle body off completely this time. The coolant pipes barely leaked any coolant out which is a bonus.





Cleaned out the IACV properly. Now it rotates freely without any dirty making it sticky.


Coolant chamber still clean. I was expecting it to be rusty after the problem I had with my coolant neck last year.


Clean intake manifold.


Restarted the car from cold this morning and it ran as it should. Idle increased from 1000rpm slowly up to 1450rpm. No more terrible struggling idle and almost stalling when revved up and coming off throttle.
 
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