General Endurance Race Help

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And then finally, the pit stops are all wrong. In Endurance racing fuel and tyre changes are separate not together (for safety reasons). The length of pit stops; tyre wear and fuel loads, therefore becomes even more crucial in your tactics.

I have experimented with different fuel loads and tyres and I have to say that there is not a lot of difference bearing in mind the changes. Important options like hard tyres and light fuel loads just do not work, and they should.


Steven

P.S Maybe I am expecting too much, but I share in case it is possible.
 
Don't let expectations ruin your overall perception of the game. The only expectations I had was that GT4 would be much bigger and much more different than past GTs, much less GT3. As I've learned, if you're going to pit often and sooner than others, be sure that you can pull away as much as you can so that you can keep up a good advantage out the pits.

I think I'm going to try New York. To go off-topic, I kind of made a deal that if the Rockets won, I'd race Tokyo, but if they lost (and they did last night), New York. After this, I have only one street course endurance left, Tokyo. So I guess you can say that I'm trying to clean out the Endurance races on city streets this weekend.

Having said that, I'm going to take my HPA Motorsports R32 Golf and kick some ass in NYC.
 
manik
what car should I use on the nurburgrings 24H?

4 the nurburgring 24hr race i used da AMG Mercedes-Benz CLK-GTR Race Car '98 and raced da hole thing on medium pace (3) on super hard racing tyres an i won by mles
 
JohnBM01, yeah I know. I suppose it was because I liked some of the features of Le Mans a lot, and I love the GT series. Now if the two could join...

I completed all the Enduros this morning by winning Le Mans with the Bentley. So I used 4 cars, but could have done it with 3, but I had to use the Bentley. B-spec'd them all, but now after my little 'rest' its back to a-spec for the rest. Hope I get to drive the Bentley. I've just got European, Professional & Extreme Halls, about 10 missions and to finish Golding the A licences to do. Though with a busy work schedule in May that will take awhile.

Steven
 
JohnBM01
Having said that, I'm going to take my HPA Motorsports R32 Golf and kick some ass in NYC.

Plz let us know how you do with that car. Haven't raced with that one yet, but dunno if that car can win from a Pagani Zonda. I raced that race with my Nissan Skyline GT-R MNP '00, full tuned. With little tuning I could stay just ahead of the Zonda, but I pitted every 17 laps or so, and that Zonda only pits twice, in lap 26 or so and a few laps before the finish. That's a shame, I'd rather win with a little margin than by miles, what I did now, with my full tuned Skyline, but if that Zonda pits so few, that's no fun anymore. Do you finally have a good and nice race, and then you can't win because you have to pit twice as much as the other..:(:(:(
 
nicco
4 the nurburgring 24hr race i used da AMG Mercedes-Benz CLK-GTR Race Car '98 and raced da hole thing on medium pace (3) on super hard racing tyres an i won by mles

That car will win by miles on Pace setting 1 on that race... and will get you 5 laps per set of tyres too...

Also I don't think that you could have raced on Super Hard Racing Tyres cos you have to use sport tyres for it?!

C.
 
I was under the impression that you had to have normal or street tyres for that race?

I was using the CLK GTR... that wasn't the point I was making.

C.
 
yeti
I was under the impression that you had to have normal or street tyres for that race?

I was using the CLK GTR... that wasn't the point I was making.

C.

The Nurburgring 24H Endurance is with Touring Cars, so racing tyres are allowed. I did the Nurburgring 24H with my BMW McLaren F1 GTR Race Car, the BMW M3 Race Car finished second.

The Nurburgring 4h Endurance is sports tyres only. I did the 4H Endurance on B-spec with my Ford GT '05.:)
 
YuRiPa
The Nurburgring 24H Endurance is with Touring Cars, so racing tyres are allowed. I did the Nurburgring 24H with my BMW McLaren F1 GTR Race Car, the BMW M3 Race Car finished second.

The Nurburgring 4h Endurance is sports tyres only. I did the 4H Endurance on B-spec with my Ford GT '05.:)

Well no wonder my Cerbera tyres ran out quicker despite being lighter and having less power and less Downforce than the M3 GTR Race Car?!

DOH!

C.
 
I read somewhere, that the cars wear down slowly, after you drive them alot.
Does anybody know how this car wear is shown?
How does it make your car weaker? do you loose horsepower and/or does the car skid more/feel heavier?

Is there a cure for a car, that has been worn out? or do you have to sell it, and buy a new one? Is it enough to buy this chassis refresh kit?

What about oil change? If you change the oil before the endurance race, does anybody know how much time into the race, the oil reaches its worst, or can you actually do a 24hours race, and the oil is still okay?

Jesper
 
njesper
I read somewhere, that the cars wear down slowly, after you drive them alot.
Does anybody know how this car wear is shown?
How does it make your car weaker? do you loose horsepower and/or does the car skid more/feel heavier?

Is there a cure for a car, that has been worn out? or do you have to sell it, and buy a new one? Is it enough to buy this chassis refresh kit?

What about oil change? If you change the oil before the endurance race, does anybody know how much time into the race, the oil reaches its worst, or can you actually do a 24hours race, and the oil is still okay?

Jesper

every new car you have will wear down, to some degree. it depends on mileage, and it shows as loss of bhp. the loss is small, and only to a certain degree - you will not lose all hp of the car :). there is nothing you can do to prevent this, apart from not using the car. there is nothing you can do to repair it.

another thing is chassis deformation. this will happen to a car in 24h enduro and to any car once your mileage is high enoough [dont know details here], and you can't prevent it either. to check if it already happend, go to the screen where you buy tuning parts for your car, go to 'other' and look at the last thing from the left - it is called chassis refresh plan or something similar. if it is checked, don't worry. if it is not, your car's chassis needs to be restored [i know, 50k].
you will need to do it for all second hand cars [they also need oil change] and for all cars after 24h enduro. what are the effects of worn chassis? you will not be able to control your car at high speeds, even in straight line it will be all over the place, especially high powered, high speed cars. again, you cannot prevent it, but you can restore the car for a 50k fee.

oil change - done on a new car before any racing will increase car's hp by 5%. done on a second hand car will restore its hp to original value [which still will be smaller than hp of the same, new car becasue second hand cars have high mileage]. done before 24h enduro will nor affect your car's performance in a race, and you will need to do it again after the race. there is no way any car can do 24h enduro on 1 oil change.

before you ask :) - you cannot leave enduro to change oil and then go back.

worn out car has only minimal hp loss, so its as good as new, unless you are a perfectionist and want your cars in mint condition, you can keep it. if you want the car to be perfect, you will have to get a new one, and don't use it too much.

chassis refresh plan, if you use a car a lot, you will have to buy it multiple times. i dont know how many miles you need to clock in, but if you use the same car, you will need to spend 50k every now and then. DO NOT buy roll-cage [chassis stiffening] if your car is due chassis refresh plan. if you want to buy a roll-cage [its on the left of chassis refresh plan in the 'other' section of tuning screen] ALWAYS buy it AFTER you do chassis refresh.
 
Thanks for the in depth info DemonSeed,

Your saying that when the car is participating in a 24 enduro, the car will gain chassis deformation. But is it possible to complete the 24 hours races in A-spec then?
Or is the deformation something that you can manage?

(I know it depends on how good a driver you are... but for example, nobody survives a lap on nurburgring with all red tyres, so is it the same thing with the car wear, or can you still race it after 18 hours without driving too slow?)

Best regards,
Jesper
 
njesper
Your saying that when the car is participating in a 24 enduro, the car will gain chassis deformation. But is it possible to complete the 24 hours races in A-spec then?
Or is the deformation something that you can manage?

(I know it depends on how good a driver you are... but for example, nobody survives a lap on nurburgring with all red tyres, so is it the same thing with the car wear, or can you still race it after 18 hours without driving too slow?)

to be honest i dont know because if i do 24h, its b-spec only. and b-spec driver controls the car very well, no matter what car is it and in what state.

but here is a thread about this problem, also i noticed in 24h write-ups that authors complain about car being all over the place at the end of the race. they do not attribute this to chassis, or anything else for that matter, but i would suppose that when they start having problems, that's the chassis.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showpost.php?p=1586058&postcount=89
 
Unfortunately, I'm going to retire my HPA Motorsports. I did 4 laps until my tires wore out. So I'm going to use my other bigtime tuner, the Amuse S2000 GT1. This thing won the El Capitan endurance, and I hope to take this Silver Amuse S2000 GT1 to kick ass with in NYC. This time, I hope to do much better.

Keep in mind, the HPA Motorsports R32 Golf is registered as an American car, even with the German VW R32 Golf. With this car, I beaten the muscle cars by 26 or even 30 seconds at New York. Thought I was going to lose, but this thing is killer. Unfortunately, I'm going to have to retire it if I want to win the New York endurance.
 
i have been stuck on this one track for about 2 weeks can anyone tell me witch car to use and what i need to do to it thanks

its the circuit de la sarthe 24h ll
 
Pav
i have been stuck on this one track for about 2 weeks can anyone tell me witch car to use and what i need to do to it thanks

its the circuit de la sarthe 24h ll

Minolta Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89.

But wait till the Sauber Mercedes and Mazda 787B are out of the race. Your driver will keep crashing into the walls at the Hunaudieres straight, and you won't stand a chance against the Sauber Mercedes and 787B. So, make sure they're not in the race, and then you'll win by 4 laps or so with your Minolta Toyota in B-spec, with Turbo Upgrade 4. So, then you have around 1250 BHP.:D
 
I had just the default settings, because that seems the best for your B-spec driver, at least, that's what I read on these boards about the B-spec driver. For the rest, I had Racing Hard Tyres up front, and Racing SuperHard Tyres at the back. Then you should be able to do about 6 laps between pit stops, and you should be 5 secs faster per lap than the others, at least, if your driver stays on track. But with Turbo upgrade 4, Racing Hards up front, Racing Superhard on the rear, and just default settings, you should win this race, and remember, make sure the 787B and Sauber Mercedes are NOT in the race.;) And one more thing. Your B-spec driver will have a max speed of about 340 km/h on the Hunaudieres straight, where you easily reach 370-380 km/h, so don't be surprised by its top speed.;)
 
What car should I use to compete in the 24h race of La Sarthe,

Toyota Minolta 88C-V - with stage 4 turbo
Sauber Mercedes C 9 - with stage 4 turbo
Nissan R92CP - with stage 4 turbo
Mazda 787B - with stage 4 turbo

I am going to B-spec it because I dont have the time to A spec. :indiff:

which car do you recommend? what speed hould I leave the car at?
 
@ Manik:

YuRiPa
Minolta Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89.

But wait till the Sauber Mercedes and Mazda 787B are out of the race. Your driver will keep crashing into the walls at the Hunaudieres straight, and you won't stand a chance against the Sauber Mercedes and 787B. So, make sure they're not in the race, and then you'll win by 4 laps or so with your Minolta Toyota in B-spec, with Turbo Upgrade 4. So, then you have around 1250 BHP.:D

YuRiPa
I had just the default settings, because that seems the best for your B-spec driver, at least, that's what I read on these boards about the B-spec driver. For the rest, I had Racing Hard Tyres up front, and Racing SuperHard Tyres at the back. Then you should be able to do about 6 laps between pit stops, and you should be 5 secs faster per lap than the others, at least, if your driver stays on track. But with Turbo upgrade 4, Racing Hards up front, Racing Superhard on the rear, and just default settings, you should win this race, and remember, make sure the 787B and Sauber Mercedes are NOT in the race.;) And one more thing. Your B-spec driver will have a max speed of about 340 km/h on the Hunaudieres straight, where you easily reach 370-380 km/h, so don't be surprised by its top speed.;)

Just read the thread, your question was just answered this afternoon... Thanx.:)

Edit: Pace 3 (Medium) will do good enough.:)
 
Fade to black also said the the Minolta has the highest HP of any car on the game, which is wrong. My 1970 Toyota 70 has almost 1300BHP. Just a little side note ;)
 
I found that for me, super hards up front work best for the Mulsanne straight because they aren't so squirrely. Mediums were unusable because the car is just too twitchy.

StevenDunn99
Now nearly finished. Currently leading Sarthe II with 6 hours to go. Then only Sarthe I. I have used only stock settings. At Sarthe II I found SH rears and H fronts best, because the medium fronts go off a little too much, though had I raised the suspension for the bumps then medium would have been fine. My Minolta is sometimes spinning/hiiting the wall down Mulsanne but I am 3 laps up (would have been 4-5 up if I had set it up right).

Steven
 
ok i was running the super speedway 150 mile race, and my car was pretty much desperate for the pits at lap 35, yet the other cars went for ages (they werea gillet, a maclaren f1, a audi R8, the jaguar Xj10 (cant remember) and a GT1. best i could get was 4th A or B spec using the CLK (the one you win from the DTM) with stage 4 turbo and hard/Super hard tyres. how are they pitting like 5 laps more than me going at faster speeds and driving like lunatics? heck, the gillet was all over the road and still wouldnt pit
 
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