General Model Kit Building Thread

[HuskyGT]

Well, it's been nearly a month since I started on this new hobby and I am happy to say I am finally done with my first kit. Today I installed the last parts on the truck. It's been quite the journey, and again, my total respect for those who do this at a professional level as it is a hell of a lot more complicated than just putting a toy car together. This hobby is nothing less than pure art!

This little Toyota put my patience to the test, it made me panic more than once, and at one point I even considered giving it a quit. All those hours working on these tiny little parts not really knowing if I was doing it right was a suffering, but the good kind I guess; one with a happy ending. Looking at this little truck, knowing all the effort put into it, just puts a huge smile on my face. That feeling alone makes we want to do this again. And I sure will!

And it's shinny! I polished it a bit with some carnuba wax. I wasn't expecting it to bring out a bit more shine. Still a crappy paint job, with lots of orange peel. But I already have something to practice on a better polishing. My next kits should hopefully look better in the paint department.

This paint is actually gorgeous! I just hope I finished it a bit better.

There are still a few decals left that I definitely want to add, like the "Toyota" lettering on the tailgate, the side stripes and other little details, but I am a bit on the fence at the moment. Turns out these decals were a bit more complicated to work than I thought. And given that there are no instructions on it, I had a bit of a hard time. I did find a YouTube video that showed how to do it, but I also found out I might need a fluid to set these decals. I did order it and might add them some other time. I just hope the ones I did place won't fall off or something. They are not in critical areas, so I hope it will be fine.

But anyways, thank you guys for the attention and definitely for all the advice you gave me. As for now I am taking a little break from these to regain my insanity. I have four other kits in my closet right now and I hope to share them in the future once I start working on them.

See ya!

 

[Apok]

There are still a few decals left that I definitely want to add, like the "Toyota" lettering on the tailgate, the side stripes and other little details, but I am a bit on the fence at the moment. Turns out these decals were a bit more complicated to work than I thought. And given that there are no instructions on it, I had a bit of a hard time. I did find a YouTube video that showed how to do it, but I also found out I might need a fluid to set these decals. I did order it and might add them some other time. I just hope the ones I did place won't fall off or something. They are not in critical areas, so I hope it will be fine.

You don't really "need" the setting solution. It makes them easier to work with, but it's not necessary. Your decals won't fall off (not on their own anyway).
Though be careful when you add the decals you mentioned. They're quite sensitive and the Toyota lettering and side stripes sound like they'll be pretty exposed. If you touch them too much after they dry they may come off.

 

[W3H5]

If you can give them a light coat of model varnish after the decals have been applied, they should be more durable. I use a matt varnish for my minis after applying water slide transfers, once they’ve dried of course.

 

[Apok]

If you can give them a light coat of model varnish after the decals have been applied, they should be more durable. I use a matt varnish for my minis after applying water slide transfers, once they’ve dried of course.

Good advice normally, but I wouldn't recommend it for this model since it's already finished. For one, it'd be really annoying trying to mask off all the parts that shouldn't be varnished, like the clear parts and tires. And one thing that has me a bit apprehensive is that the model was polished with carnuba wax. I don't have experience, but I can't imagine that'll play nice with a layer of varnish. Best case scenario it works fine, worst case scenario the varnish doesn't want to stick to the surface and you get a weird drippy mess that just ruins the finish.
Definitely worth looking into for @HuskyGTs future models.

 

[W3H5]

@Apok, you might be right. My explanation was just that with a size 0 brush one could create better adhesion and protection over a transfer. Just the transfer, mind, not any other surface, and that does require a small brush and steady hand.
I’ve not worked with waxed surfaces so I can’t speak for those, but on regular acrylic paint, a small sealing coat of matt/ gloss modelling varnish helps against scuffs and scrapes and reduces that “stuck on” effect that often makes decals stand out.
It could even be hit with some recess shade (door line highlighter in this case) to blend it into the rest of the model.

 

[Apok]

@Apok, you might be right. My explanation was just that with a size 0 brush one could create better adhesion and protection over a transfer. Just the transfer, mind, not any other surface, and that does require a small brush and steady hand.
I’ve not worked with waxed surfaces so I can’t speak for those, but on regular acrylic paint, a small sealing coat of matt/ gloss modelling varnish helps against scuffs and scrapes and reduces that “stuck on” effect that often makes decals stand out.
It could even be hit with some recess shade (door line highlighter in this case) to blend it into the rest of the model.

Oh, that could probably work then. I had the spray varnishes that are most common in model building in mind.

 

[W3H5]

Something like a pot of Liqitex varnish or similar from a craft store would work a treat. I picked up a bottle a few weeks back that will last me years (for wargame minis) and it’s was the equivalent of a few dollars. It drys completely clear with no residue or brush marks.

 

[killerjimbag]

Don't apply decals over something you polished with wax. The wax can get moisture under it and bubble.

 

[Draggon]

Well done, that's looking great! Ease up on yourself, I'm not finding anything wrong with it

 

[HuskyGT]

Don't apply decals over something you polished with wax. The wax can get moisture under it and bubble.

Yup, learned that the bad way. Not sure how quick that happens, but for some reason they would not set and had a bunch of bubbling underneath. The side decals are done for. I didn't liked them that much though, so no loss. I had a suspicion that it might've had something to do with the wax, so I did wipe the tailgate very well with some water and waited for it to dry. It's been a bit longer than a day now and the decal stuck with no bubbling thankfully.

I will be careful next time though. Thanks for the advice.

 

[killerjimbag]

Yup, learned that the bad way. Not sure how quick that happens, but for some reason they would not set and had a bunch of bubbling underneath. The side decals are done for. I didn't liked them that much though, so no loss. I had a suspicion that it might've had something to do with the wax, so I did wipe the tailgate very well with some water and waited for it to dry. It's been a bit longer than a day now and the decal stuck with no bubbling thankfully.

I will be careful next time though. Thanks for the advice.

I don't know if you have an airbrush or not. If you do this is an old trick that has been used for years. Yes it works. If your going to get into some serious modeling,an airbrush is the way to go. You can use cheap water based paint you can get at Walmart etc. Mix it with windshield washer fluid and it looks fantastic. Many tips and tricks you can do. Keep up the good work. Looks good to me.

 

[killerjimbag]

Go look at this guy's videos. Really good stuff. Here is a video with cheap paint that costs from $1 to $4.

 

[HuskyGT]

Go look at this guy's videos. Really good stuff. Here is a video with cheap paint that costs from $1 to $4.

Yes! Saw this video. I see so many different techniques that people use, all with different or similar results. It does help though, since I'm kind of taking bits of advice from them all. Thanks for further advice! I think I'm ready for my next one.

I have these three here. I just can't decide which one I'll go with. I'm a bit concerned with the Honda because it's red, and I want to go with white, so I think I have to apply a few coats of primer first (?) I might leave that one for last.

I really like these Tamiya kits! They feel very different than the old AMT truck. The detailing seems sharper and the plastic is less "rubbery." There is almost no flash that I can see so far, at least on the body. Only thing I didn't like is that you can see in some body panels where the plastic met in the molding process. So there will be some sanding to smooth it out. I'm a bit confused about the bodies being colored already? I mean the finish is not great, but if I want to go with a lighter color, I might have some trouble.

I am excited to work on these. Of course, once I decide which one to go with first.

 

[Volksauto]

Yes! Saw this video. I see so many different techniques that people use, all with different or similar results. It does help though, since I'm kind of taking bits of advice from them all. Thanks for further advice! I think I'm ready for my next one.

I have these three here. I just can't decide which one I'll go with. I'm a bit concerned with the Honda because it's red, and I want to go with white, so I think I have to apply a few coats of primer first (?) I might leave that one for last.

View attachment 1006008
I really like these Tamiya kits! They feel very different than the old AMT truck. The detailing seems sharper and the plastic is less "rubbery." There is almost no flash that I can see so far, at least on the body. Only thing I didn't like is that you can see in some body panels where the plastic met in the molding process. So there will be some sanding to smooth it out. I'm a bit confused about the bodies being colored already? I mean the finish is not great, but if I want to go with a lighter color, I might have some trouble.

I am excited to work on these. Of course, once I decide which one to go with first.

I wanted to paint my ‘58 Plymouth Fury light beige but the kit was molded in bright red (Christine AMT kit). I shot three coats of white Tamiya spray primer. By the third coat the red as completely gone. DO NOT try getting complete coverage on your first coat. That will just lead to runs and plenty of headaches. Take 10-15 minutes between each coat and spray lightly. It will eventually be all white. Then just sand the primer smooth to remove any orange peel.
If you want to start the Honda first then go for it!

 

[HuskyGT]

I wanted to paint my ‘58 Plymouth Fury light beige but the kit was molded in bright red (Christine AMT kit). I shot three coats of white Tamiya spray primer. By the third coat the red as completely gone. DO NOT try getting complete coverage on your first coat. That will just lead to runs and plenty of headaches. Take 10-15 minutes between each coat and spray lightly. It will eventually be all white. Then just sand the primer smooth to remove any orange peel.
If you want to start the Honda first then go for it!

Yeah, I was a bit worried about the Honda. What grit of sand paper would be good to sand off the primer?

 

[Volksauto]

Yeah, I was a bit worried about the Honda. What grit of sand paper would be good to sand off the primer?

I use 1500 grit sandpaper. Then I’ll go over with some 3000 grit. Just make sure you don’t have deep scratches before you apply color because they will show through. 3000 or 4000 takes care of any potential scratch marks.
Note: Also make sure the primer isn’t mirror smooth. The paint needs something to grab onto.

 

[W3H5]

Painting white is a head ache, if you ask me. I’ve never had any success getting a really nice finish with white. It seems to pick out all of the imperfections of the primer.

 

[HuskyGT]

I just realized I don't have black paint for the Honda's roof and I don't want to wait for it on the mail.

So I'll start with this

This should be interesting. I bought Gunmetal Gray paint, but to my surprise the car already comes in that color. Not sure if to just pretend the color isn't there and do the whole regular painting procedure, of if I could get away with skipping the priming. The hood will definitely need some attention since for some reason it is clear plastic. On the positive side, this looks like a much easier kit.

 

[barryf1fan]

It's a Tamiya kit - much better fit and finish than the Toyota truck you just did... Enjoy!!

Looking forward to the progress pics.

 

[DG_Silva]

This should be interesting. I bought Gunmetal Gray paint, but to my surprise the car already comes in that color. Not sure if to just pretend the color isn't there and do the whole regular painting procedure, of if I could get away with skipping the priming. The hood will definitely need some attention since for some reason it is clear plastic. On the positive side, this looks like a much easier kit.

I've just finished this exact kit, so I know what you mean. If I were you, still primer and paint the entire kit as normal, even though the body is the right colour. The clear bonnet is to allow you to see the engine bay in detail without propping the bonnet up, so it's your choice to paint it or not.

 

[HuskyGT]

I've just finished this exact kit, so I know what you mean. If I were you, still primer and paint the entire kit as normal, even though the body is the right colour. The clear bonnet is to allow you to see the engine bay in detail without propping the bonnet up, so it's your choice to paint it or not.

Yes. I went ahead and prepped the body like normal. Spent all morning sanding and now it's waiting for the last coat of primer. Did the same with the hood.

Been working on the engine while the primer dries. I'm amazed at how nice this kit fits and bonds. It really is like "Lego" as someone mentioned.

 

[DG_Silva]

Just be careful with the steering rack, it's an extremely tight fit on the back of the hubs where they hook onto (as they are with all Tamiya models), and the hooks break very easily.

 

[HuskyGT]

Spent all day with the first part of the engine. I am still shocked that I managed to pull off the red lettering for the "NISSAN" emblem. I almost didn't dare. The "Twin Cam" is staying as is, though. It is WAY too small. Thanks again for the advice on paint. The light wash tip sure helped with this.

Still needs some extra touches, but I'm taking a break. My eyes hurt (need a magnifying glass or something)

 

[HuskyGT]

Just be careful with the steering rack, it's an extremely tight fit on the back of the hubs where they hook onto (as they are with all Tamiya models), and the hooks break very easily.

Thanks. I was hoping that part would be easier. The AMT Toyota's steering rack was probably the hardest parts of the build and I didn't want to go through that again. I'll get it right hopefully!

 

[Volksauto]

Spent all day with the first part of the engine. I am still shocked that I managed to pull off the red lettering for the "NISSAN" emblem. I almost didn't dare. The "Twin Cam" is staying as is, though. It is WAY too small. Thanks again for the advice on paint. The light wash tip sure helped with this.

View attachment 1006193
Still needs some extra touches, but I'm taking a break. My eyes hurt (need a magnifying glass or something)

Man you work fast! The engine looks good. Is it brush painted or sprayed?

 

[HuskyGT]

Man you work fast! The engine looks good. Is it brush painted or sprayed?

Brush. I still haven't got the airbrush, and my spray paints are limited for body only.

 

[Team THRT Drift]

(need a magnifying glass or something)

Invest in one. Protect your eyesight. They're pretty cheap on Amazon. Desk stand magnifying glass with built in light.

Great progress! Glad you're enjoying the process 👍

 

[Volksauto]

After almost a two year hiatus, I have resumed work on the 1/16 Volkswagen Samba. I painted the interior rubber floor mats with some flat black. I masked all the seats and they’re ready to be painted along with the other interior panels next.

 

[Volksauto]

Has anyone used automotive spray paint they had mixed at a paint shop for their models? Is it compatible with model primers and is it safe for the plastic?

 

[HuskyGT]

Has anyone used automotive spray paint they had mixed at a paint shop for their models? Is it compatible with model primers and is it safe for the plastic?

A few post back in the previous page, someone mentioned that it is indeed possible to use automotive paint. I am not sure if you would need a different type of primer though. I am very interested on seeing that 1/16 VW! I might get it myself. I'm looking for bigger kits.
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Anyway, not a lot of progress this week due to work, but I got to finish most of the front-end parts, engine and brakes. I also did all the paint coating, minus the clear coat.

At little look at how the engine would fit.

I'm starting to understand what the Tamiya Smoke is good for. I still need practice with it, but I did apply some to the exhaust manifold and transmission, and it looks a million times better than what I did with the Toyota truck. It almost looks like metal.

Really love this gunmetal gray. Already looks so much better than the color the kit came with. And that's without the clear coat.

Getting the right color for brake rotors is very difficult. But again, a much more decent result than with the Toyota.