Gran Turismo 7 Custom Race thread

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Using the start/finish straight, Yamamoto's top speed was 168 mph early on, then fell to 164 around lap 7 (probably due to a lack of slipstream). I've jumped ahead to lap 44, where his top speed is still 163 or 164, depending on the lap. I noticed the speed boost happens at the end of lap 47, and sure enough,
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The top speed is then consistently 177 or 178 mph.

That's about 14 mph or 22 km/h faster than before.

For reference, my own top speed fluctuated slightly around 170 mph on this straight. Mostly because I would always brake later than the AI, because turn 1 is just so fun if you wait until the last possible moment to brake.

I’ve checked my replay of the Fuji race and the fastest lap also has a sudden boost in speed. I’ll try to do next race with boost off and see how it goes.
 
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I’ve checked my replay of the Fuji race and the fastest map also has a sudden boost in speed. I’ll try to do next race with boost off and see how it goes.
I haven't tested it myself, but from what others have said, boost off is stronger than weak. Meaning it's probably a broken setting.

Good luck to you, the results will be helpful.
 
I haven't tested it myself, but from what others have said, boost off is stronger than weak. Meaning it's probably a broken setting.

Good luck to you, the results will be helpful.
I have some anecdotal evidence - my kart races around Northern Isle Speedway were a good bit closer with boost weak than with boost off. It also seems that boost weak cuts out the crazy rubberbanding if you’re too far behind, IIRC. Do timed races have the same problem? If not, maybe that’s a workaround? Not ideal, but you could multiply the average lap time by the number of laps to find the race duration.
 
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I haven't tested it myself, but from what others have said, boost off is stronger than weak. Meaning it's probably a broken setting.

Good luck to you, the results will be helpful.

That’s been my experience in the past too. I haven’t tested in a while. Maybe it’s fixed 🤞


Here's my Super GT 2016 Rnd 2 at Fuji supercut. The video is a bit too long. I'm new to this video editing stuff, as you can definitely tell. I edited everything using playstation’s share factory app.

There's a lot of good AI action in it.



And here's the race and overall results after round 2. Yamamoto score the first points for the NSX, but they're still finding themselves at the bottom. Next round will see a good amount of success weight for top 5.

I started P3 and finished P3 after going wide in the last lap. I was so dumbfounded to see P1 and P2 (and P4) pit in the last lap (it wad the 2nd time they pitted because they were out of fuel, everyone else, including me, pitted only once) that I couldn't keep it in the track. I led the race a few times and 5 other AI cars did too.

Sekiguchi had a great race and got to P2 in the last lap on turn 1 and then took advantage of my mistake to get P1. Coincidently, or maybe not, Sekiguchi was the RC F with the lower amount of success weight.

All and all it was a great race. 37 laps, 2x fuel and 2x tyre wear, dry weather and cloudless. Next stop; Autopolis.

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Hi all, I've been experimenting lately with Custom races, mainly to try and create some old-school Gran Turismo races that GT7 sorely lacks. I've been trying to make a sort of 4WD tiered series, where the entry-level race is effectively stock WRX, Evo X, Focus RS, A45 AMG, TTS etc. The Clubman version features the same cars plus a few extras tuned to around 400bhp, and the professional level will have the same cars again, fully upgraded to 500bhp, and RH tyres. I've been having some decent races here and there, but I always get similar results;

I fight for the lead with one or two AI cars, then there's a single-file mid field, and one or two trailing up to 15 seconds behind. I've seen some decent overtakes, but for the most part, the grid spreads out after a lap or two. If I upgrade a back-marker, it will then usually come first and run away. If I slightly downgrade a car, it seems to drop right to the back.

I generally use Boost on Weak, damage off and slipstream on strong to try and keep the grid close. Is there any settings I should change or run differently? I saw a video a couple of pages back on here of a BTCC-style grid at Brands Hatch and the cars were going 2-wide into most corners, which looked really fun. Just wondering how to recreate that?
 
After some BOP help if possible.

So I want to turn some super cars into race cars. I have to say it’s a little disappointing that they is not much body/aero upgrades available for cars. Be good if you could strip out interior and fit maybe just a generic interior.

Anyway. So my series.
Cars - Ford GT, Chev C7 ZR1, Aston DB11, McLaren 650s, AMG GT R, Audi R8, Porsche RS3, Ferrari F8, Nissan GTR, Honda NSX.
Tuning - Weight reduction stage 3, Racing air filter, exhaust, flywheel/clutch, exhaust manifold, drive train, crankshaft, ecu, power restrictio, ballast, racing suspension and racing brakes with carbon discs.
Body - added front, side & rear splitters (were possible) and a rear wing.

So first thing I tried to do was do some laps to see roughly what times the car would do, but the first thing I noticed was they is way too much power going through the rear wheels on a few of the cars.
So I need to BOP the car to make them a bit more equal. So far the first change I have made is to reduce BHP, and add some weight to the lighter cars.

Anyone know what else would help in balancing the cars? Would a LSD be helpful?
 
After some BOP help if possible.

So I want to turn some super cars into race cars. I have to say it’s a little disappointing that they is not much body/aero upgrades available for cars. Be good if you could strip out interior and fit maybe just a generic interior.

Anyway. So my series.
Cars - Ford GT, Chev C7 ZR1, Aston DB11, McLaren 650s, AMG GT R, Audi R8, Porsche RS3, Ferrari F8, Nissan GTR, Honda NSX.
Tuning - Weight reduction stage 3, Racing air filter, exhaust, flywheel/clutch, exhaust manifold, drive train, crankshaft, ecu, power restrictio, ballast, racing suspension and racing brakes with carbon discs.
Body - added front, side & rear splitters (were possible) and a rear wing.

So first thing I tried to do was do some laps to see roughly what times the car would do, but the first thing I noticed was they is way too much power going through the rear wheels on a few of the cars.
So I need to BOP the car to make them a bit more equal. So far the first change I have made is to reduce BHP, and add some weight to the lighter cars.

Anyone know what else would help in balancing the cars? Would a LSD be helpful?
BoP and “can you drive it?” are different tasks. Fortunately, you can probably solve both at once.

You may have a decent idea of which car is the slowest of the bunch. To avoid dipping into more tuning parts, calculate its power/weight ratio. Use the ballast, ecu, and power restrictor on other cars to make them have the same ratio. This should be a decent starting point, and at the same time should have reduced power in the cars that are hard to handle.

Up to you on where to go from here. Many here prefer to leave suspension alone to avoid making it hard for the AI to drive the cars. Aero can be kept common or used to level the playing field, too. Further changes to power and weight should aim to bring cars into a ~50 pp range and make the acceleration speeds (“0-0.25mi,” etc., on left of tuning sheet for me in US) similar.

If you need/want to, you can equip RH tires to all cars to help control them. Worth reminding you can only do “default” (probably SH) or RH tires, with some exceptions for rain.
 
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Anyone else notice that the custom races glitch? Like with pause from time to time like the online races when someone drops out of the race. (On PS4 with hard lined internet)
 
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BoP and “can you drive it?” are different tasks. Fortunately, you can probably solve both at once.

You may have a decent idea of which car is the slowest of the bunch. To avoid dipping into more tuning parts, calculate its power/weight ratio. Use the ballast, ecu, and power restrictor on other cars to make them have the same ratio. This should be a decent starting point, and at the same time should have reduced power in the cars that are hard to handle.

Up to you on where to go from here. Many here prefer to leave suspension alone to avoid making it hard for the AI to drive the cars. Aero can be kept common or used to level the playing field, too. Further changes to power and weight should aim to bring cars into a ~50 pp range and make the acceleration speeds (“0-0.25mi,” etc., on left of tuning sheet for me in US) similar.

If you need/want to, you can equip RH tires to all cars to help control them. Worth reminding you can only do “default” (probably SH) or RH tires, with some exceptions for rain.
Thanks for the help!
Everything you mentioned so far is pretty much what I have done so far. Looks like I just need to iron out a few more changes to the setup for it to be about right.

Ive not touched the suspension, and the only aero change was to add a bit more rear wing.
 
Thanks for the help!
Everything you mentioned so far is pretty much what I have done so far. Looks like I just need to iron out a few more changes to the setup for it to be about right.

Ive not touched the suspension, and the only aero change was to add a bit more rear wing.
Nice, now I’m up to speed. You’re right to think of the LSD - lowering the acceleration value should help those RWD monsters that scream coming onto the throttle out of corners.

As you continue to iterate, it may be useful to run a separate “user” tuning sheet on the car you’re driving. Suspension changes will help bring those cars into line for you, though this slippery slope can lead to your outperforming the AI to the point where you need to further reduce your power and that’s no fun.
 
Hello all! Here is the race report of my GT7 WEC's round 6 at Monza!
Boring in LMGTE, crazy in LMP1. :P

This is what the starting grid looked like:
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Race pics:
First lap:
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Ferrari and Ford collided at the start so... :indiff:

Rebellion Racing trying hard..
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...and fails miserably! :irked:

Other duels in LMP1:
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#5 Toyota harpooned the #1 Porsche, just like the Rebellion did earlier.

Back on track after my first and last pit stop, just in front of the #71 chasing Ferrari running in P2:
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Few pics here and there:
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Pink Pig isn't as competitive as it was at the beginning of the championship.

And here it is, the flying #7 Audi! :dopey:
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Just after it did a pit stop. Fortunately for Audi, that car was not the only one to fail in the following laps.

Two pics in the last half hour, battles are still ongoing especially in LMP1:
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With two laps to go, the leading Audi (it's back!) and the leading Corvette:
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After two hours of racing at Monza, this is actually a fight for the overall win. :drool: The #6 Toyota will overtake the #2 Porsche in the last lap.

Race results:
Finally a victory for Audi, we had to wait for the 6th race of the season for this to happen. My second victory in a row by a fair margin, never lost the lead.
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Standings after race 6 at Monza:
LMP1 Crew standings:
1 - #5 Toyota (20) - 102 pts
2 - #6 Toyota (12) - 94 pts
3 - #1 Porsche (12) - 88 pts
4 - #2 Porsche (10) - 84 pts
5 - #7 Audi (6) - 80 pts
6 - #8 Audi - 54 pts
7 - #13 Lola-Toyota - 46 pts
8 - #12 Lola-Toyota - 40 pts

LMGTE Crew standings:
1 - #91 Porsche (14) - 99 pts
2 - #63 Chevrolet (10) - 83 pts
3 - #64 Chevrolet (6) - 69 pts
4 - #71 Ferrari (10) - 68 pts
5 - #53 SRT Dodge (6) - 67 pts
6 - #92 Porsche (6) - 45 pts
7 - #51 Ferrari (2) - 43 pts
8 - #95 Aston Martin (2) - 40 pts
9 - #97 Aston Martin - 34 pts
10 - #93 SRT Dodge (4) - 29 pts
11 - #68 Ford - 25 pts
12 - #69 Ford - 4 pts

LMP1 team championship standings:
1 - Toyota Gazoo Racing - 196 pts
2 - Porsche Team - 172 pts
3 - Audi Sport Team Joest - 134 pts
4 - Rebellion Racing - 86 pts

GTLM team championship standings:
1 - Corvette Racing GM - 152 pts
2 - Porsche GT Team - 144 pts
3 - AF Corse - 111 pts
4 - SRT Motorsports - 96 pts
5 - Aston Martin Racing - 74 pts
6 - Ford Chip Ganassi USA - 29 pts

*(actual success ballast in kg)

A clean, good, but lonely race TBH. Fortunately, the LMP1s were fighting all around me during the whole race! Ford could have done a lot better here, they were doing good until they've been pushed around multiple times in a row at some point.

I was ready to be easily ahead here, a track with long straight lines, since AIs doesn't throttle to the max. Surprisingly, however, it was on the straights that I was losing time!

The next 2 hours race will be held at Spa.
 
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I just posted this in the Motorsport thread. If anyone looking to see what cars run in the Bathurst 6H(this April 7-9), here’s the entry list:


Keep in mind, under these Production Car regulations, there is a vehicle price cap of $150,000AUD. The cars must have four seats. So, no sports cars like MX-5s, Supras, 911s(even though they have rear seats), etc.
There was a suggestion to cap vehicle prices at $90,000AUD, to keep costs down and not have one car dominatiing(as it’s becoming BMWs in the last few events. As a reference to earlier B6H events, it used to be Mitsubishi EVOs that dominated with their AWD).
 
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Time and Weather settings for the new layouts:
  • Nurburgring Endurance - Sunrise to Twilight, Clear to Thick Torrential Rain
  • Nurburgring Sprint - Early Morning to Sunset, Clear to Thick Torrential Rain
 
been trying to find a PP / tire level that eliminates glitchy tunes without expressly prohibiting them. will probably start doing lobbies with this setting - 550pp, sports hard tires, 400 max hp (just in case-aside from the cappucino swap, i think its safe). ran a custom race with 20 of the tunes ive come up with! (fwiw - 400pp with comfort hard tires is the other class i'm enjoying, but that would require two full grids)

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Just the addition of the Mazda3 changes my immersion for my Super Taikyu grid. Finally. Such a fantastic addition. So many cars to use, need more cars on the grid. 30 cars is a must.
 
Here’s a caveat regarding buying cars equipped with RM. for the RS5, it does all the WTC800(I’m about to try WTC700 events) races easily, with the stock RMs. Just detuned to 92% power, nets a PP 798. Excellent Fuel economy. Rear tyres wear more heavily than the fronts.
I’d recommend refrain from purchasing RH. This way, if players to choose to use the other Gr.2 cars, they’ll all be using the default RM.
 
Here’s a caveat regarding buying cars equipped with RM. for the RS5, it does all the WTC800(I’m about to try WTC700 events) races easily, with the stock RMs. Just detuned to 92% power, nets a PP 798. Excellent Fuel economy. Rear tyres wear more heavily than the fronts.
I’d recommend refrain from purchasing RH. This way, if players to choose to use the other Gr.2 cars, they’ll all be using the default RM.

Sorry, but I’m not getting what you’re trying to say. Are you saying that if I buy RH for a car and then use it in a custom race where I choose cars from my garage, this car in particular will use RH and not its default tyres? Even if I equip it with RM?
 
Sorry, but I’m not getting what you’re trying to say. Are you saying that if I buy RH for a car and then use it in a custom race where I choose cars from my garage, this car in particular will use RH and not its default tyres? Even if I equip it with RM?
Correct. The User can run the car with any compound. When assigning that particular to the AI, it will not use the default RM. Unfortunately, it’s been that way since game debut.

A player would have to buy a new car and not buy RH.
 
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Anyone ever play around with tuning the AI to be quicker? Perhaps “the default” is the best, it’s what I try to use so as not to make them slower, but I’ve not tested it myself.

That nascar grid I shared is coming together but I’ve hit a snag where the Supra falls to the back on non-ovals.
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One potential solution if it can’t be fixed with a tune is to just keep upping power until it’s a good competition, but the drawback is it requires I part from the “95% ecu” ez-math convention as I’ll need to keep track of where the line is to prevent ME from getting too boosted.

I’m not a Praiano user, imagine others have experience with how the AI handles his work? Maybe the Supra is a car that asks for a particular setup philosophy someone knows about? Thanks in advance for any tips!
 
Correct. The User can run the car with any compound. When assigning that particular to the AI, it will not use the default RM. Unfortunately, it’s been that way since game debut.

A player would have to buy a new car and not buy RH.

Thanks. I thought if you assign them the default they will use them, even if you had bought the RH.
 
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