Gran Turismo Sport: General Discussion

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Is it wrong or right? i don't get it :confused:. Should they look the same or are they actualy modeled like they should.
That's the 180sx with an S13 front end and the S13 with a 180sx front end, two common front end swaps performed on these cars.
The actual in game models are accurate and correct to the real life models, which are the top two photos. The bottom two photos I believe have been photo-shopped just to show the front end swap and how similar the cars are.
 
That's the 180sx with an S13 front end and the S13 with a 180sx front end, two common front end swaps performed on these cars.
The actual in game models are accurate and correct to the real life models, which are the top two photos. The bottom two photos I believe have been photo-shopped just to show the front end swap and how similar the cars are.
Yeah like i initially thought, GTS models are the most accurate models out there found it weird when he put it like that. But thnx for explaining 👍
 
Yeah like i initially thought, GTS models are the most accurate models out there found it weird when he put it like that. But thnx for explaining 👍
I had a little expectation that they might modeled them from the same base just like the real cars, so it might be easy to model Sileighty for example, if they're planning to include that.
But they came into different, they don't share their exterior model. (Actually the interior is shared.)
Though the difference is really slight, fortunately.
 
Hi all.

I wonder if you could answer a couple of questions.

a) I am unable to use peddles any longer (reasons too long to list, alas). Can anyone recommend a good hand controller that can have throttle, brake, gears etc mapped to buttons on the hand grips rather that where the usual ds4 buttons are? I have googled this and it’s more of a product recommendation I’m looking for.

b) I have found myself in some very unfair Daily lobbies recently. Trailing along in last position behind A and B drivers is not fun. Is there any way I can leave the race before it starts without it harming my rankings if such a situation occurs?

c) Does everyone’s pit stop take the same amount of time from pit entry to pit exit and does this vary by track?

d) Is it possible to change cars at warm up?
e) How much of warm up is required for its use to become effective?
f) Some “parts” of track seem to have some weird “shooting forward” effect (Dragon Trail/Lake Maggiore). Is this because I may not have warmed-up sufficiently?

That’s it, until I think of more! Sorry if these questions are simple or have been answered previously.
 
Hi all.

I wonder if you could answer a couple of questions.

a) I am unable to use peddles any longer (reasons too long to list, alas). Can anyone recommend a good hand controller that can have throttle, brake, gears etc mapped to buttons on the hand grips rather that where the usual ds4 buttons are? I have googled this and it’s more of a product recommendation I’m looking for.

b) I have found myself in some very unfair Daily lobbies recently. Trailing along in last position behind A and B drivers is not fun. Is there any way I can leave the race before it starts without it harming my rankings if such a situation occurs?

c) Does everyone’s pit stop take the same amount of time from pit entry to pit exit and does this vary by track?

d) Is it possible to change cars at warm up?
e) How much of warm up is required for its use to become effective?
f) Some “parts” of track seem to have some weird “shooting forward” effect (Dragon Trail/Lake Maggiore). Is this because I may not have warmed-up sufficiently?

That’s it, until I think of more! Sorry if these questions are simple or have been answered previously.
A) Sony introducced an add on component to the DS4 last year, I am unsure about it's effectiveness in this game/if it seems it would aid you in your situation though
B) There isn't a way to leave a Sport mode race without it negatively impacting your ratings unfortunately. Studying replays and practice practice practice is your best chances of improvement!
C) Everyone's stop time is the same, provided you select your tires before reaching the stall. The amount of fuel you add will also sway the overall pit time of course.
D) No
E) I find warm up to not effect the cars performance at all. It is more practice for the driver IMO
F) I'm unsure what you mean by Shooting Forward, but it may be involving internet connection quality perhaps?
 
Hi all.

I wonder if you could answer a couple of questions.

a) I am unable to use peddles any longer (reasons too long to list, alas). Can anyone recommend a good hand controller that can have throttle, brake, gears etc mapped to buttons on the hand grips rather that where the usual ds4 buttons are? I have googled this and it’s more of a product recommendation I’m looking for.

b) I have found myself in some very unfair Daily lobbies recently. Trailing along in last position behind A and B drivers is not fun. Is there any way I can leave the race before it starts without it harming my rankings if such a situation occurs?

c) Does everyone’s pit stop take the same amount of time from pit entry to pit exit and does this vary by track?

d) Is it possible to change cars at warm up?
e) How much of warm up is required for its use to become effective?
f) Some “parts” of track seem to have some weird “shooting forward” effect (Dragon Trail/Lake Maggiore). Is this because I may not have warmed-up sufficiently?

That’s it, until I think of more! Sorry if these questions are simple or have been answered previously.
About the C, I remember that the pit work is notably long in Le Mans.
 
A) Sony introducced an add on component to the DS4 last year, I am unsure about it's effectiveness in this game/if it seems it would aid you in your situation though
B) There isn't a way to leave a Sport mode race without it negatively impacting your ratings unfortunately. Studying replays and practice practice practice is your best chances of improvement!
C) Everyone's stop time is the same, provided you select your tires before reaching the stall. The amount of fuel you add will also sway the overall pit time of course.
D) No
E) I find warm up to not effect the cars performance at all. It is more practice for the driver IMO
F) I'm unsure what you mean by Shooting Forward, but it may be involving internet connection quality perhaps?

a) That would be the back button attachment. That is a £30 item being sold for £90+ by scalpers who bought/buy any stock available. I, like many others, refuse to line their pockets. I was wondering if anyone uses controllers with built in buttons/paddles like Astro C40 or Thrustmaster products.

b) The reason I ask is because I often see less drivers after track/player notices but there is no indication in the chat box that anyone left.

f) It feels like oil on the track rather than a normal skid and is not controllable. It seems random in its occurrence but the on track location varies little, if at all. I have a wired cable connection which always gives 5 green bars.

Additional questions;

g) At the end of the race on the finishing order screen I see some players DR rating showing as “- -“ rather than the usual letter. These are players who have finished the race, not dnf ones. Anyone know what that means?

h) If I change my TCS or BB during a race, is this instantaneous or is there some type of delay like it only takes effect after a set time or at the end of a lap?

i) Does the make of wheel or tyre affect performance or is it just a cosmetic feature?

Thanks to those who have taken the time to answer already. Further input would be welcomed.
 
At the end of the race on the finishing order screen I see some players DR rating showing as “- -“ rather than the usual letter. These are players who have finished the race, not dnf ones. Anyone know what that means?
Likely meant that the network failed to retrieve the rank from someone's profile. But I could be wrong or there's some other factors going on.

If I change my TCS or BB during a race, is this instantaneous or is there some type of delay like it only takes effect after a set time or at the end of a lap?
Instanatenous.

Does the make of wheel or tyre affect performance or is it just a cosmetic feature?
Cosmetic.
 
- What's the benefit of positive and negative camber?

- Similarly, what about toe-in and toe-out?

Also, when it comes to each of these settings, is one end of the setting better than the other? For example, positive vs. negative camber. I don't see any use to using positive camber, but is there some use I'm unaware of? It seems like zero camber is best for tracks with lots of straights and low-speed corners, and negative camber is best for tracks with lots of high-speed corners. So is positive camber just useless, then?
 
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- What's the benefit of positive and negative camber?

- Similarly, what about toe-in and toe-out?

Also, when it comes to each of these settings, is one end of the setting better than the other? For example, positive vs. negative camber. I don't see any use to using positive camber, but is there some use I'm unaware of? It seems like zero camber is best for tracks with lots of straights and low-speed corners, and negative camber is best for tracks with lots of high-speed corners. So is positive camber just useless, then?

I cannot answer your questions, but aren't the benefits of the various tuning settings described on the tuning screen?
 
- What's the benefit of positive and negative camber?

- Similarly, what about toe-in and toe-out?

Also, when it comes to each of these settings, is one end of the setting better than the other? For example, positive vs. negative camber. I don't see any use to using positive camber, but is there some use I'm unaware of? It seems like zero camber is best for tracks with lots of straights and low-speed corners, and negative camber is best for tracks with lots of high-speed corners. So is positive camber just useless, then?

This is an interesting video about Mercedes F1 DAS system, which adjusts toe angles on the fly. It's as good an explanation about toe-in/out as any.
No idea about camber. My knowledge on cars is basically limited to right pedal = faster, left pedal = slower. The big circle thing in your hands points the car.

 
- What's the benefit of positive and negative camber?

- Similarly, what about toe-in and toe-out?

Also, when it comes to each of these settings, is one end of the setting better than the other? For example, positive vs. negative camber. I don't see any use to using positive camber, but is there some use I'm unaware of? It seems like zero camber is best for tracks with lots of straights and low-speed corners, and negative camber is best for tracks with lots of high-speed corners. So is positive camber just useless, then?
If you watch NASCAR, You can see how much positive camber those car have for ovals. It's rights the tyres for more contact patch in cornering.

Watch (V8)Supercars. Those cars(and many touring car categories- 1980's Group A especially), have crazy amounts of negative camber. V8SC have used up to -10° of camber in the front at various tracks (for high speed corners at Phillip Island).

 
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I cannot answer your questions, but aren't the benefits of the various tuning settings described on the tuning screen?

I don’t think they’re explained well. It says what it does to the car, but IIRC, not anything about how it affects the driving.
 
I don’t think they’re explained well. It says what it does to the car, but IIRC, not anything about how it affects the driving.
More camber = larger outside tyre contact patch in cornering, smaller tyre contact patch on the straight; harder to brake in a straight line, harder to straighten up, more grip in corners.
Less camber = smaller outside tyre contact patch in cornering, larger tyre contact patch on the straight; easier to brake in a straight line, easier to straighten up, less grip in corners
More toe-in = better straight line stability, resists cornering
More toe-out = poorer straight line stability, more readily changes direction

Typically you want more toe-in and camber at the rear, and less toe (sometimes zero; rarely toe-out, although F1 cars do run some toe-out) and less camber at the front. That makes the front end easier to steer and the rear end happier to follow. It's not a hard and fast rule though, and it's worth noting that in real life more camber and toe (in or out) cause higher, and uneven, tyre wear.
 
Typically you want more toe-in and camber at the rear, and less toe (sometimes zero; rarely toe-out, although F1 cars do run some toe-out) and less camber at the front. That makes the front end easier to steer and the rear end happier to follow. It's not a hard and fast rule though, and it's worth noting that in real life more camber and toe (in or out) cause higher, and uneven, tyre wear.

Does depend on the whether you're oval or circuit racing, car drive and tyre choice,

I ran a Caterham 7 type car than had like 0 toe and camber in the rear, slight toe out in the front and loads of negative camber to get heat into the Dunlop semi slicks we ran, but with Karts and the tracks we ran on I had lots of toe out in the front with little to no camber
 
It sounds like within Gran Turismo, positive camber is useless. Also, it sounds a lot like the ideal toe and camber settings would depend on the track, but what about the car's drivetrain? For example, FR vs. FF, where the driving wheels differ in position. It also sounds like toe and camber could help with combating a car's natural oversteer or understeer, sorta like tinkering with the anti-roll bar.
 
It sounds like within Gran Turismo, positive camber is useless. Also, it sounds a lot like the ideal toe and camber settings would depend on the track, but what about the car's drivetrain? For example, FR vs. FF, where the driving wheels differ in position. It also sounds like toe and camber could help with combating a car's natural oversteer or understeer, sorta like tinkering with the anti-roll bar.
Ride height is also a factor.

I've set my Gr.4 Atenza to touring car(1990s BTCC) specs:

-5° F
-4° R
I slam the ride height for looks. It negatively affects the handling. Has a much larger turning circle at low speeds.

The toe settings PD use:
25 F
50 R
seem to be a good balance

I also soften the springs and harden the dampers and anti-roll bars( to 10F/R).

I like that touring car feel.

Just remembered. One car I like to tune, is the 997 GT3. Transmission gearing/speeds can be adjusted to the real Cup car. Suspension, diff, weight, power, can be adjusted just about spot on. I have a thread in the online racing section. I'll try to find it.
 
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More camber = larger inside tyre contact patch in cornering, smaller tyre contact patch on the straight; harder to brake in a straight line, harder to straighten up, more grip in corners.
Less camber = smaller inside tyre contact patch in cornering, larger tyre contact patch on the straight; easier to brake in a straight line, easier to straighten up, less grip in corners
More toe-in = better straight line stability, resists cornering
More toe-out = poorer straight line stability, more readily changes direction

Typically you want more toe-in and camber at the rear, and less toe (sometimes zero; rarely toe-out, although F1 cars do run some toe-out) and less camber at the front. That makes the front end easier to steer and the rear end happier to follow. It's not a hard and fast rule though, and it's worth noting that in real life more camber and toe (in or out) cause higher, and uneven, tyre wear.
But if that sounds like you’re using settings with counter-acting effects on each axle. Wouldn’t you also want less camber for the driving wheels (whether they’re in the rear or the front) so that you have better acceleration on the straights?

It sounds a lot more like the ideal toe and camber settings are track-dependent. For example, at the Nordschleife, you’d want more negative camber and more toe-out, right? And then it’d be the opposite for something like Le Mans, or at least you’d want less of it. Wouldn’t the ideal settings affected by drivetrain, too?

I could see more camber also being good if you prefer trail braking.
 
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Hi everybody, new here but not GT's ;)...
This has surely been discussed but: why Offline Leagues don't feature the old 'Race as championship' option?
Is that a declared choice? Could it be implemented in the future, though offline racing has become less important nowadays?
Thank you and happy (GT) Racing! :gtpflag:
 
But if that sounds like you’re using settings with counter-acting effects on each axle.
Generally speaking, one end of the car steers and the other doesn't.

But yes. If you try to make both ends of the car act the same, the risk is making the car too much of that and not enough of anything else. If the car is set up for nothing but turning, the car will turn a lot, even when you don't want it to. If it's set up for nothing but straight lines, it won't turn when you want it to.

Wouldn’t you also want less camber for the driving wheels (whether they’re in the rear or the front) so that you have better acceleration on the straights?
If you want, but you will sacrifice corner speed.
It sounds a lot more like the ideal toe and camber settings are track-dependent. For example, at the Nordschleife, you’d want more negative camber and more toe-out, right? And then it’d be the opposite for something like Le Mans, or at least you’d want less of it. Wouldn’t the ideal settings affected by drivetrain, too?
More than that, they're yard-by-yard dependent. You might want more camber or toe on one corner than another, you might want more toe on a bumpier straight than a flat one, and this might all be on the same track. You need to set the car up to gain the most but lose the least - it's a compromise.

Everything is a compromise. You don't get anything for free, unless you can actively adjust toe or camber on the fly. My car, for example, has a (pretty sloppy, mechanical) passive rear toe changing system. It's crap, and you can trick it into misbehaving, but it does it. The Mercedes F1 car's DAS system changes front toe from the mild toe-out it has for the cornering benefits to zero toe on the straights for straight line speed and tyre wear benefits.
 
For those in doubt.

Sileighty = S13 180sx body with an S13 Silvia front end. Any other variance other than this CANNOT be labeled as a Sileighty, as others often do.

On the flip side of that we have the Onevia...

Onevia = S13 Silvia body with an S13 180sx front end. No, this does not mean that your 240 sx coupe is a Onevia... Stop saying that, you're embarrassing yourself.

Now staying with the S13 Silvia body style, lets dive into an S14 front conversion...

S13.4 = S13 Silvia with S14 front.
-S13.4 Zenki
-S13.4 Kouki

As you see, there are two variations due to the front fascia change from Zenki to Kouki in 1996. If you say you have an S13.4, it could be either Zenki or Kouki
so specifying will eliminate that question.

RS13.4 = S13 180sx with S14 front.
-RS13.4 Zenki
-RS13.4 Kouki

Same deal as above, but an "R" in front of the S13 classifies the body style as Hatchback. This is what Nissan did to classify the difference in body types.

S13.5 = S13 Silvia with S15 Silvia front.
RS13.5 = S13 180sx with S15 Silvia front.

Since the S15 only had one type of front end the above conversion names are pretty straight forward.

Now this is where it gets a little hazy... If you have an S14 how do you determine the difference in the conversion if using an S13 front?

S14.3 = S14 Silvia with S13 Silvia front.

That is pretty straightforward, but we can't call the S14 with a 180sx front the same thing so I've come up with this...

S14.3r = S14 Silvia with S13 180sx front.

This makes the most sense since the "R" is used to signify chassis difference between S13 Silvia and S13 108sx from above.

S14.5 = S14 Silvia with S15 Silvia front.

Standard conversion everyone knows well.

And for the S15, terminology not many people will ever use...

S15.3 = S15 Silvia with S13 Silvia front.

S15.3r = S15 Silvia with S13 180sx front.

Same deal as the S14. S15 with pop-ups becomes the S15.3r.

S15.4 = S15 Silvia with S14 front.
-S15.4 Zenki
-S15.4 Kouki
 
Hi everybody, new here but not GT's ;)...
This has surely been discussed but: why Offline Leagues don't feature the old 'Race as championship' option?
Is that a declared choice? Could it be implemented in the future, though offline racing has become less important nowadays?
Thank you and happy (GT) Racing! :gtpflag:
Hey, welcome aboard! :cheers:
 
Hi everybody, new here but not GT's ;)...
This has surely been discussed but: why Offline Leagues don't feature the old 'Race as championship' option?
Is that a declared choice? Could it be implemented in the future, though offline racing has become less important nowadays?
Thank you and happy (GT) Racing! :gtpflag:

Welcome!

It might have been overlooked or a deliberate choice. GTS isn't a full-fledged Gran Turismo game, rather it's own spinoff with eSports and FIA regulations in mind.

I'm sure GT7 will have full GT features including the one you mentioned.
 
You know, playing GT League again, on and off over the past little bit, and yeah, it still sucks and the chase the rabbit **** doesn't fly anymore then it did in 2010.

But at the same time, it feels like a reciprocating cycle with regards to the cavalcade of complaints about how arbitrary the penalty system is in Sport races, and the general pervasiveness of dirty driving. Think about it - GT games from the very beginning has never actively punished players for dirty driving, even going back to the first game. Divebombing AI in a wild gambit in order to make things easier for you? Sure! Shunting, spinning out AI? Go right ahead! Wall scraping with the back quarter panels so that you don't get time penalties in GT4's special events? Why not! Hell, even with the games that did have damage, it was basically arbitrary, and did nothing to actually affect your car or strategy if you were being especially aggressive, even compared to other racing games of the time.

So, you come into GT Sport more or less conditioned to treat the AI as less then dirt that simply serve as fodder on your way to a podium, especially considering the events are one long chase the rabbit sequence, with some events especially leaning into that mechanic, and the AI never stray from the optimum racing line other then when they bin it (which happens a lot more then any racing game I've seen in terms of AI). All you need to do to participate in Sport Mode is to watch two short videos that basically amount to 'don't be a dick, mmmkay'. Absolutely no practical application of these ideals. Just watch a few videos and off you go.

Take all of that into consideration, and of course there's going to be rampant ****** and dirty drivers in Sport Mode. The series as a whole hasn't given a damn about promoting good driving habits going back to the first game, and the game's AI and racing scenarios basically mean that those bad driving habits continue to fester, and of course they leak into the online portion. The game takes no punitive measures to combat it except dropping said person's safety ratings (Which truly, positively mean nothing) and then continue to let the problem fester, except now newer players have to deal with the bad apples.

Sure, all of this could be avoided if Polyphony actually worked out the penalty system and made punishments for driving more punitive, and actually made that safety rating system mean something, ala iRacing, but the chances of that happening are less then nil considering the core of iRacing is paying a subscription for a better, more mature level of racing, and those that actually pay the subscription and continue to drive like asshats are promptly punted off the service or serve penalties.

As such, if people really want the situation in regards to dirty drivers in Sport Mode to change, you'd be better off actually pushing and prodding Polyphony to change their offline racing structure and AI so that it isn't some long chase the rabbit sequence, and that the AI actually pose a threat in terms of giving the player a run for their money. That, or actually adding in a half decent damage system that will deter people from treating the AI like trash, and subsequently might turn off players from divebombing, wall-scraping, or what have you.
 
Thank you all... ;)
While we're at it, I checked out: registered since 2005! :crazy: (told ya wasn't entirely new :D) but never actually discussed anything for whatever reasons... Well, Never say die!! :lol:
I play both on and offline and I gotta say the AI in GT Professional League is quite 'satisfying' compared to previous iterations (well, for an average player like myself at least), the only part I really miss being just that: Championship mode would make you drive every race more 'involved' rather than in a series of stand-alone venues, even better if they'd calibrate opponents in a way that there's not only 1-2 CPU cars very competitive (for race victory) but a few more so that tournament table will be more uncertain till the end...
Adding venues here and there suggests they're not totally ignoring offline mode, so here's hoping they'll do it as well sooner or later in a new DLC... Offline is also basically the only method to acquire credits a little quick, so please PD: decrease Ferrari P4's price or increase offline pri...ze :lol:
(Or again, make EVERY CARS available for money purchase, just a little cheaper maybe... :bowdown:)
Happy GT :gtpflag:
 
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