Gran Turismo World Series (Manufacturers Cup 2025 Exhibition 3 season: 12 Nov - 29 Nov)

Talon16 · Sunday at 11:56 PM

VTEC Driver
Do you mean to enter and to exit just clicking no change tires and no fuel?
Never thought that this could be a possibility.

So do you mean to do a “fake” pit stop just after the first lap and the to run all the race alone?
It sound interesting…

Thanks for your comment so I can start evaluating if it is feasible for me.

Yep, pretty much. Just select no tire and no fuel; your car will come to a stop, then go.

__________________________________________________________

Doing some more laps, and am really liking the Citroen around this track. Was able to dip into the 12s race pace. Should be able to get a better idea soon on whether or not getting tires is an advantage as I now feel pretty comfortable with the track.

I did one run taking tires on lap 12 (meant to on 11 but forgot lol) and it was an extra 4.1" to add the tires. Thus, the new tires needs to be worth ~.340"/lap - presuming no traffic - make them worth it. I think it's going to be very close, at least on the Citroen. Some Manus' cars that eat tires quicker (or more unevenly (think FF)) might not have much a choice but to take new rubber.

Jumped on my AO account (Honda) and when entering the oval while in S1 the car goes bonkers and spins. You can't re-enter the oval there on the normal racing line, rather you have to take a tighter radius thru T1 kinda dive bomb it so you can hit it at a straight angle or the car is toast. Not sure if you guys are seeing this with your Manu cars but heads up. The Citreon has no problem taking a wider line/radius in that area.

Moose78 · 2025-11-24T00:34:47+0000

I've been doing some testing to figure out whether it better (or worse) to change tires for Rd.5 in the cars that I'm driving this season: Ford and Subaru.

To test it out, I did two 23-lap races in each car. In the first, I changed tires. In second, I left the old ones on. To keep things simple, I pitted at the end of lap 11 in every race. Why then? Because it is in the middle, which is optimal for the tire-change strategy. I chose to put the longer stint at the end when tire wear will be less from carrying less fuel weight. Of course, for the no-change strategy, it doesn't matter when the pit happens, so putting it at the same time as the tire-change strategy makes it easier to compare.

Here are the results:

Manufacturer	Model	Strategy	Opt time	Best time	Avg time	Total time
Subaru	WRX Gr.4	Tire change	1:14.421	1:14.648	1:16.464	29:18.672
Subaru	WRX Gr.4	No change	1:14.929	1:14.912	1:17.176	29:35.049
Ford	Mustang Gr.4	Tire change	1:14.695	1:14.957	1:16.622	29:22.303
Ford	Mustang Gr.4	No change	1:14.734	1:14.984	1:16.674	29:23.504

Tire tread levels at pit:

Manufacturer	Model	Strategy	Front left	Front right	Rear left	Rear right
Subaru	WRX Gr.4	Tire change	85%	45%	95%	90%
Subaru	WRX Gr.4	No change	85%	50%	95%	90%
Ford	Mustang Gr.4	Tire change	90%	70%	95%	85%
Ford	Mustang Gr.4	No change	85%	65%	90%	85%

Tire tread levels a finish:

Manufacturer	Model	Strategy	Front left	Front right	Rear left	Rear right
Subaru	WRX Gr.4	Tire change	80%	45%	95%	85%
Subaru	WRX Gr.4	No change	65%	0%	85%	75%
Ford	Mustang Gr.4	Tire change	85%	60%	95%	85%
Ford	Mustang Gr.4	No change	70%	15%	85%	70%

Conclusions and observations:

Obviously, I'm going to have to change tires in the Subaru.
In the Ford, the difference is less pronounced, but changing tires is looking like it would be faster for me, so I'll probably do that.
It feels like whether a no-change stop is viable is going to depend a lot on what car you're driving and how good you are at tire saving. Enjoy doing your own tests.

BGreenFace · 2025-11-24T01:16:07+0000

Moose78
I've been doing some testing to figure out whether it better (or worse) to change tires for Rd.5 in the cars that I'm driving this season: Ford and Subaru.

To test it out, I did two 23-lap races in each car. In the first, I changed tires. In second, I left the old ones on. To keep things simple, I pitted at the end of lap 11 in every race. Why then? Because it is in the middle, which is optimal for the tire-change strategy. I chose to put the longer stint at the end when tire wear will be less from carrying less fuel weight. Of course, for the no-change strategy, it doesn't matter when the pit happens, so putting it at the same time as the tire-change strategy makes it easier to compare.

Here are the results:

Manufacturer Model Strategy Opt time Best time Avg time Total time
Subaru WRX Gr.4 Tire change
1:14.421
1:14.648
1:16.464
29:18.672
Subaru WRX Gr.4 No change
1:14.929
1:14.912
1:17.176
29:35.049
Ford Mustang Gr.4 Tire change
1:14.695
1:14.957
1:16.622
29:22.303
Ford Mustang Gr.4 No change
1:14.734
1:14.984
1:16.674
29:23.504

View attachment 1494030

Tire tread levels at pit:

Manufacturer Model Strategy Front left Front right Rear left Rear right
Subaru WRX Gr.4 Tire change
85%
45%
95%
90%
Subaru WRX Gr.4 No change
85%
50%
95%
90%
Ford Mustang Gr.4 Tire change
90%
70%
95%
85%
Ford Mustang Gr.4 No change
85%
65%
90%
85%

Tire tread levels a finish:

Manufacturer Model Strategy Front left Front right Rear left Rear right
Subaru WRX Gr.4 Tire change
80%
45%
95%
85%
Subaru WRX Gr.4 No change
65%
0%
85%
75%
Ford Mustang Gr.4 Tire change
85%
60%
95%
85%
Ford Mustang Gr.4 No change
70%
15%
85%
70%

Conclusions and observations:

Obviously, I'm going to have to change tires in the Subaru.

In the Ford, the difference is less pronounced, but changing tires is looking like it would be faster for me, so I'll probably do that.

It feels like whether a no-change stop is viable is going to depend a lot on what car you're driving and how good you are at tire saving. Enjoy doing your own tests.

From what I can see from the total race time it looks like the tire change might be quicker if we push nonstop and change halfway then trying to save them for only a few seconds save at the pits.
Of course I’ll have to try from my side since the cayman is mid engine and rear wheel drive compared to your WRX and mustang but it does give me a good global idea.
Thanks you for that data

Pakiti · 2025-11-24T06:07:48+0000

Thanks for all your posts about strategy. I've made a clear decision to change tires, as I'm also terrible at saving tires and don't have a high DR, which means I make more mistakes, and fresh tires will be more forgiving, whereas worn tires require maximum error-free driving. I think in this case, it's not necessary to have a strategy for when to change tires; just wait for the right moment to undercut.

I'm really looking forward to the race in the deep forest. I haven't competed in many championships, and this will be my first race where I'll be able to adjust the suspension and differential. I've always grumbled about not being able to change these parameters (and aerodynamics, for that matter), because in real racing, they're incredibly important.

Moose78 · 2025-11-24T13:03:10+0000

Pakiti
I'm really looking forward to the race in the deep forest. I haven't competed in many championships, and this will be my first race where I'll be able to adjust the suspension and differential. I've always grumbled about not being able to change these parameters (and aerodynamics, for that matter), because in real racing, they're incredibly important.

I agree in principle, but in practice tuning is very poorly supported for online races in the game.

For starters, there's no way to save your settings. You need to re-enter your settings every time you go into Free Practice or enter a slot to race. It is a real nuisance.

More importantly, there's no good way to share your settings (I don't consider screenshots a good way). There's no way to see what settings the top drivers are using in their replays. There's no public catalog of settings -- like there is for liveries and decals -- where you go and find settings to try. Everybody is just left on their own to figure things out. If you aren't an expert tuner -- and most of us aren't -- you are going to be at a disadvantage.

All of these are fixable, but in the current state of GT7 these tuning races aren't all that they could be.

Just my 2 cents.

BGreenFace · 2025-11-24T13:16:31+0000

Moose78
For starters, there's no way to save your settings. You need to re-enter your settings every time you go into Free Practice or enter a slot to race. It is a real nuisance.

Can’t we just make a setting sheet for our setup we want to use for that race? 🤔 For example I have a stock setting sheet and a 800pp setup for the rs5.
I just don’t know if we could use those in a daily race or championship but I did use it in a lobby

Just a suggestion correct me if I’m wrong 🤷‍♂️

Moose78 · 2025-11-24T13:20:36+0000

BGreenFace
Can’t we just make a setting sheet for our setup we want to use for that race?

Nope. The game clears all the saved sheets from the settings when the BoP is applied. They will be there for custom races and (maybe) lobby ones. Not for the actual event, though. You need to manually re-enter each individual setting before each race or Free Practice session.

Pakiti · 2025-11-24T13:22:06+0000

Moose78
I agree in principle, but in practice tuning is very poorly supported for online races in the game.

For starters, there's no way to save your settings. You need to re-enter your settings every time you go into Free Practice or enter a slot to race. It is a real nuisance.

More importantly, there's no good way to share your settings (I don't consider screenshots a good way). There's no way to see what settings the top drivers are using in their replays. There's no public catalog of settings -- like there is for liveries and decals -- where you go and find settings to try. Everybody is just left on their own to figure things out. If you aren't an expert tuner -- and most of us aren't -- you are going to be at a disadvantage.

All of these are fixable, but in the current state of GT7 these tuning races aren't all that they could be.

Just my 2 cents.

So, if I make a setting in free practice and save it as one of the configurations, can I then select that configuration online? Yeah, not really, probably because the configuration requires changing a lot of parameters, while online only allows for a few. I agree, it's annoying, like many similar little things in GT7.

As for sharing, it's debatable in my opinion. There aren't that many settings, and a screenshot is fine. We already suffer a lot of inconvenience – that's not the worst thing.
But the fact that you can't see them is probably a good thing. Someone spent two hours searching for the settings to gain an advantage, while someone else copied them. Having the option to hide or show them would definitely be nice. Predefined settings are a great idea, at least some basic ones, like focusing on top speed or the ability to attack curbs.

I think with the advent of telemetry in the Spec III, it will be much easier to search for settings, simply feed your data to the AI and try its recommendations.
p.s. Your 2 cents are always very valuable to us)

JDMKING13 · 2025-11-24T13:23:09+0000

BGreenFace
Can’t we just make a setting sheet for our setup we want to use for that race? 🤔 For example I have a stock setting sheet and a 800pp setup for the rs5.
I just don’t know if we could use those in a daily race or championship but I did use it in a lobby

Just a suggestion correct me if I’m wrong 🤷‍♂️

The problem is when the BOP is applied it resets the tuning sheet… I just screen shot my tune and plug it in like that. It’s annoying but gets the job done for me.

BGreenFace · 2025-11-24T13:41:32+0000

Moose78
Nope. The game clears all the saved sheets from the settings when the BoP is applied. They will be there for custom races and (maybe) lobby ones. Not for the actual event, though. You need to manually re-enter each individual setting before each race or Free Practice session.

Oh ok I didn’t know that
I guess that somewhat make sense since BoP change some settings…

MCL1974 · 2025-11-24T16:00:28+0000

Did some testing, main issue for me is the U-turn in the infield, I find it really difficult to turn well there with the controller, feels like I am pushing it till almost breakingpoint in order to make the turn. Tried the Mazda 3, best lap 1.14.3 with an opt time of 1.41.1 but must laps were high 1.14 or low 1.15, made a lot of small errors and was not very consistent.

I am in doubt as I really want to use the Atenza but it is so much slower then the Mazda 3 in my hands, so maybe I will only so a race on my alt account in GT3 with the Altenza...

guitargeek · 2025-11-24T16:35:23+0000

Great race at RBR Saturday. 4pm PST, GT1 in the RX-Vision. Was not prepared for fully dry qualifying, managed 11th. Decided to go IM no-stop, which I considered a "high variance" strategy, but worked out quite well. I decided before qualifying that if I was top 5 I'd go W-IM but if I was behind that I'd use the slight drying of the cars in front to run IM no stop.

Clean start, a little swapping while the pack sorted out. One minor incident into T3 on lap 3, I thought it was my fault, that I had drifted losing the rear under braking using BB +5, but on replay it turns out I was tapped. Either way, it was a small pile up at the apex but all drivers stopped were pointed in the right direction so only loss of about 5 seconds, and I ended up battling the same guys at the end.

Mistakes and folks at the front on W-IM strats moved me up to 3rd for the last few laps in a sandwich with a Genesis in front and GT-R behind. I just needed to defend the dry line and stay clean... which I almost did. I made a slight error exiting T1 on lap 28 allowing the GT-R to get a big run, forcing me to defend off the dry line down to T3. I slightly out braked myself and he cut back and passed me on the exit. I then overdrove my worn front tires into the next few corners and he and the Genesis pulled away.

Still, 11th to 4th based on good strategy and patient driving, taking advantage of off-tracks and other wet weather shenanigans. I'll take it

Looking forward to Wednesday, I really like driving this layout of Blue Moon in Gr. 4, and the Atenza feels solid. I've gotten down to consistent low 1:14 with fuel and tire turned on which was competitive with other A drivers with higher DR, so fingers crossed I've got the pace. I'm curious to see how the tire strategy plays out. When I did my own custom race my tires went the distance pretty well. But in a couple lobbies with sunnier/warmer weather, I was cooking the right front. Holding it tight in T1, and the last turn getting back on the main straight was getting slow and a bit intimate with Barry-R.

ElectricNaz · 2025-11-24T17:08:41+0000

Just did a couple of Blue Moon lobbies as a practice run with a few other cars on the grid etc

458 Italia

1st race - pitted lap 10, changed tyres, total time 29m12s but ruined because I got a bit lazy so went off a few times. Also took a while to get the last corner right

2nd race - pitted end of lap 11, changed tyres, 29min flat. Made one mistake which cost me 3 seconds, any other time lost was due to battling. So I think a pretty optimal race time for me would be a shade under 29 mins, preferably closer to a 28.50. Laps in clean air were all between 1.13.5 and 1.14

Gonna try now without a tyre change, it's defo possible on a pad as its only really front right that's the issue, and by lap 11 it looked about 20-25% worn (screenshot below). Not sure what that'll mean for the final corner though.

Edit: did a no stopper. Basically the same sort of time, I was fighting with the Spanish guy in 2nd before the pits and came out about an extra 2.5s ahead due to me not changing tyres, stablised at 3.5s whilst his tyres warmed up, then the gap came down about 0.3/0.4 most laps.

I made one mistake in the final few laps that cost me almost 1.5s. We collided on the last lap because he had laggy Internet, no idea where he was but I hit him, but in reality he would have overtaken me, but equally it's my mistake letting him get that close in the first place (not grip related, I braked way too much in turn one).

Overall this hasn't helped me at all (!) after 69 laps and 3 practice races. Not changing tyres is 100% a viable option on pad though, I think it depends on when you pit, if you're in a battle, if you want to keep a slipstream etc.... Lots of in-race decisions needed. I was still able to get into the 1.13s in the last few laps so tyre drop off wasn't overly horrendous, noticed it more in the final two hairpins more than anything.

TL;Dr - both changing tyres and not changing tyres equal out for me at just under 29mins total race time, if I take my own carelessness out of the equation! So IMO do what feels right for you, I don't think there is a right way!

Wilsonson · 2025-11-24T21:47:37+0000

This track is deceptively hard for me. I lose tons of time through the two hairpins by either not getting enough rotation quick enough, not flooring it early enough or a combination of the two. Also getting the final turn just right is tough. And let's not get started on the random turn lock (don't know what it's really called) when hitting the bump in T1. Sometimes I just keep on turning straight inside into the barrier. But of course I sometimes don't trail break enough and go wide.

I only managed getting into the 13s on a single lap out of 15 and also had lots of terrible laps. I don't really have the time to practice but maybe I can squeeze in some time tomorrow night.

These are my notes for the top GT-R replay on the board:

Blue Moon Bay
T1 start turning at and of white sign after 100 board, trail break at triple left arrows, 143, stay in 4th, floor it once facing marshalls
T2 turn and slight break tap between 100 and black sign, apex 170 but steadily decreasing, floor it once looking straight ahead at 159
T3 flat but very tight
T4 slight break tap and turn back right after passing first lamp post on left, 145
T5 flat
T6 break at the end of the bridge, turn in once barrier starts, 67, floor it once looking just right of the barrier at the concrete barrier under the bridge
T7 (may count as 2 turns) break and turn at orange barrier, follow skid marks, aim for 2nd apex, 77, floor it once looking between 2nd apex and red N2O sign
T8 lift and turn in just after lamp post on left before 50 board, aim just past the barrier having right wheels on the white, 149, floor it just before getting to the grey barrier facing the left part of the white sign across
T9 flat stay tight

guitargeek · 2025-11-24T23:39:12+0000

Wilsonson
This track is deceptively hard for me. I lose tons of time through the two hairpins by either not getting enough rotation quick enough, not flooring it early enough or a combination of the two. Also getting the final turn just right is tough. And let's not get started on the random turn lock (don't know what it's really called) when hitting the bump in T1. Sometimes I just keep on turning straight inside into the barrier. But of course I sometimes don't trail break enough and go wide.

I only managed getting into the 13s on a single lap out of 15 and also had lots of terrible laps. I don't really have the time to practice but maybe I can squeeze in some time tomorrow night.

These are my notes for the top GT-R replay on the board:

Blue Moon Bay
T1 start turning at and of white sign after 100 board, trail break at triple left arrows, 143, stay in 4th, floor it once facing marshalls
T2 turn and slight break tap between 100 and black sign, apex 170 but steadily decreasing, floor it once looking straight ahead at 159
T3 flat but very tight
T4 slight break tap and turn back right after passing first lamp post on left, 145
T5 flat
T6 break at the end of the bridge, turn in once barrier starts, 67, floor it once looking just right of the barrier at the concrete barrier under the bridge
T7 (may count as 2 turns) break and turn at orange barrier, follow skid marks, aim for 2nd apex, 77, floor it once looking between 2nd apex and red N2O sign
T8 lift and turn in just after lamp post on left before 50 board, aim just past the barrier having right wheels on the white, 149, floor it just before getting to the grey barrier facing the left part of the white sign across
T9 flat stay tight

Interesting to read your notes, the references nearly match what I came up in my many laps with in the Atenza, which I assume is pretty similar to the GT-R in this case. Getting T1 was key to getting consistent good laps, I found the shallower entry line braking at the arrows, and releasing some pressure on the transition off the banking (this relieve the too deep or sliding issues). That, and getting the T2, T4, T8 "chuck it in" corners dialed, braking and turning early to accelerate before the apex and relatively straight.

BGreenFace · 2025-11-25T00:20:15+0000

My practice lobby is open so those who want to join are welcome
The room mode is free run and I’m BoredGreenFace

BGreenFace · 2025-11-25T00:53:35+0000

BGreenFace
My practice lobby is open so those who want to join are welcome
The room mode is free run and I’m BoredGreenFace

Scratch that friends
I can’t put the BoP on in a free run lobby 😢