GT Sport Bug Report Thread

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This again. Well, no. 2GB free.
But on second thought it is possible that the game somehow thinks there is not enough space.
Why would the replay work from the library then?

Just another example of how a stupid feature (the save limit) can mask a bug. Nobody takes my problem seriously because - ah, we've seen that before.
 
This again. Well, no. 2GB free.
But on second thought it is possible that the game somehow thinks there is not enough space.
Why would the replay work from the library then?

Just another example of how a stupid feature (the save limit) can mask a bug. Nobody takes my problem seriously because - ah, we've seen that before.
I have more than adequate space but still run into this problem, because there are 4 accounts on the ps that plays GTS.
But I have no idea if you have the same problem. It was just me trying to help.
 
Sure, thanks for trying. This forum format makes things a little hard.
The first response I got was the same as yours, but how should you know.
I'm getting a little impatient with this.

To all:
The strange thing is that sometimes saving works,
I suspect exactly in the case where it is not the fastest overall time, only fastest of the session.
Would test better if I got paid for it ;-)

TL;DR: Need to get faster so I only have to bother with Top10 ghosts.
 
Another day, another bug. Hard to be not confused by this
Hoping the new GT7 is not based on these.
Also hoping to get paid for this some day.
  1. I just drove a 2:19.741
  2. My "OPT." before was 2:18.6xx
  3. I had a PB of 2:19.696 today
  4. I had another PB of 2:19.237 from 2 days ago, which did not save due to network issues
  5. Suddenly this old PB shows up again - in the "BEST" row
  6. "OPT." gets consistently messed up when driving a new PB - it is equal to the actual session best
  7. After "Retry" the "BEST" remains, the "OPT." looks good now
bug in opti.jpg
 
Hi everyone, with regards to the “pit bug”, where you car just crashes into the pit wall over and over.
I remember a while back I joined a random lobby and was getting stuck in the pits and noticed that it was happening only when I added steering when applying throttle to “release” the car.
I remember it vividly but have not tested it out, now I always “release” my car with the steering 100% straight. (Out of habit)
I have no idea if this is a real thing or just a fluke but I very rarely get the pit bug now, and if I do, there’s always been a chance I’ve added steering input. So I leave and rejoin, make sure I have zero steering input and I have no issues.

Hoping someone out there can verify a similar experience??

edit: I’m going to test this out and see if I can get footage

I haven’t managed to replicate this, must’ve been coincidence
 
Hello

In the Lobby why do a lot of cars crashes in the pit lane when starts qualify? Or when the race start they still on the grid?

Thank you for your help
Generally it's because at least one person has an absolutely mince internet connection.
 
what is the minimum recommended internet connection speed?
There isn't one, and in any case the game uses very little bandwidth - it streams data, not video, to the order of a few hundred kB an hour.

However, if you have a user with a very high and unstable latency - primarily from sheer geographical distance, but also a poorly configured internal network (wireless, 40 feet and two walls and a ceiling away from the router, on the other side of a microwave oven and central heating boiler; blocked ports, NAT1/3, DHCP) - it'll cause issues for your lobby. Usually for everyone except that player.
 
There isn't one, and in any case the game uses very little bandwidth - it streams data, not video, to the order of a few hundred kB an hour.

However, if you have a user with a very high and unstable latency - primarily from sheer geographical distance, but also a poorly configured internal network (wireless, 40 feet and two walls and a ceiling away from the router, on the other side of a microwave oven and central heating boiler; blocked ports, NAT1/3, DHCP) - it'll cause issues for your lobby. Usually for everyone except that player.

Is there a function to find out who's causing the problem?
Which ports does GTS use in the Lobby?
Which is the best NAT setting?

I ask because we are a team of over 30 associates and we would like to do team training, but always someone can't participate.
 
Is there a function to find out who's causing the problem?
No, although it's probably the person whose connection is rarely five bars and commonly flicks about between 1 and 3 bars.
Which ports does GTS use in the Lobby?
Which is the best NAT setting?
Don't know, and 2, respectively

I put this together a while back, and it's worth doing it all. There will doubtless be someone in your group that can't do it, won't do it, or says they have but haven't (herding 12 people is hard enough even when they're in the same place; 30 is a nightmare), and there is absolutely no cure for geographical distance, but this is pretty much all you can do to make sure your environment is as good as it can be:

Famine
So GT Sport - like GT6 and GT5, and GT5P - is a bit sensitive to network environments, and a connection that's fine one day (or hour) might be ropey the next. There's an "easy" way to optimise your own network environment and make it as stable and friendly as possible.

Step 1 - Wire it in
A wired connection is innately more stable (and marginally broader and more responsive) than a wireless one.

Step 2 - Static IP address
This is a little more complicated and requires knowing a very small amount about your home network.
In essence, your router (the thing that plugs into the outside world) has a small amount of addresses (called IP addresses) that it assigns to the devices connecting to it. It receives information from the outside world, works out which device it has to go to and sends it there. Your device also sends information to it, which the router translates to show which device it has come from, and sends it out. This is a function known as "Network Address Translation" (NAT). Now you know what "NAT Type" means - the type of NAT currently used. NAT Type 2 is best and NAT Type 3 is the worst, for really boring reasons. If you have NAT Type 3 you will absolutely need to do the rest of this list.
If left to its own devices (it probably would), the router will assign IP addresses automatically. This means that every time a device is turned on, the router gives it a number. This is usually sequential, but not always, and known as DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol). If you have lots of devices connected at once, this can sometimes cause issues as a device "wants" the IP address another one is using. It's usually only a hiccup, but it can be bad if you're doing 140mph when it hiccups because your kid is checking their phone...
For stability purposes it's better to assign each and every device in your house its own, permanent IP address. First you'll need to find out what IP addresses your router uses. Usually, this will be 192.168.0.[any number from 2-255], with the router itself as 192.168.0.1, but not always*. Best way to check is to look at the router's own IP address, printed on the back of it. That's the address you'd type into your browser to log into your router's control panel. Once you've found out, pick a number from 2-255...
Then, on the PS4 go to:
Settings (second button from the right hand side)
-> Network
-> Set Up Internet Connection
If you've wired it in as above, pick "use a LAN cable". If not, bad you, pick WiFi.
On the next screen pick "Custom", and then "Manual". Now you need to enter the IP address you've chosen, along with some other... kookier information.
For your IP address enter the number you picked. "Subnet Mask" is even more almost always going to be 255.255.255.0. "Default Gateway" is your router's address. The DNS (Domain Name Server; the servers that change the IP addresses of locations into names, like gtplanet.net) settings are up to you; your ISP has its DNS and these will likely be in the router's control panel under DNS. It's easier to use the free DNS at OpenDNS. These are "208.67.220.220" and "208.67.222.222".

As a random example, the screen should now look something like this:
IP Address - 192.168.0.4
Subnet Mask - 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway - 192.168.0.1
Primary DNS - 208.67.220.220
Secondary DNS - 208.67.222.222

On the next screens hit Automatic, Do Not Use and Test. It'll now do a network test. If you have set ANYTHING wrong, it will fail at the "Obtain IP address" or "Internet Connection" stage. Double check your numbers...

Lastly, it's best to do exactly the same thing in your router, and it's required for the next step. Routers vary wildly in where to find this function, but you should have your own instruction manual for it... It's likely to be under an advanced settings menu, labelled as IP addresses or network configuration or something similar. All you need to do is find your console (this can be tricky, as it may be listed by its MAC address; you can find your console's MAC address in its Settings menu somewhere. I forget where. It's a set of six pairs of hexadecimal numbers, from 00-FF, separated by colons), click on that and enter the IP address you picked for it.

If you think this is geeky, I've done it for every device in my house, numbering 25 or so now. And the consoles, laptops, mobiles and computers are separated into dedicated IP blocs, so when we get a new one it's easy to remember what the next number should be. NEEEEEEEEEEEEEERD!

Step 3 - DMZ
So, basically, devices need to send information out through "ports". This is stupendously difficult to explain - you and I might think that a "port" is what you plug a cable into, but it's not. Well, not in this sense - it's a networking thing. Routers have built-in protective "firewalls" that block certain ports under certain conditions. This is great - it helps prevent your computer from being compromised, or sending out information when it has been - but when a console has its ports blocked, you can't game.

Routers also have a place outside of their normal firewall called the DMZ - which, yes, is the Demilitarised Zone. This is a connection where the firewall doesn't exist, so there's no defences. As there's no defences, there's no ports blocked. This is great news for gaming.

Once you've assigned the static IP address to the PS4 both in the console and in the router, you'll want to find your router's DMZ function. Again, this varies wildly, but is often just labelled as "DMZ". It may be under a Firewall menu or similar. Again, consult your manual. You'll need to then assign the console's IP address (or some routers allow you to assign the device, if you can remember its MAC Address, or you gave it a name) to the DMZ.

You can only assign a single device or IP to a DMZ, and your console is the safest thing to put there.

Once you've done all this, the chances are that you won't see any immediate differences in the network test. You might have a slightly lower ping, or a slightly higher bandwidth, but probably won't. But what you will have is the absolute ideal conditions for your console for online gaming, and the only disconnects that will affect you should be when everyone gets booted from a lobby. Or if your internet connection itself falls over, or there's a power cut.

It won't cure low bandwidth, high ping connections, but it will make it more stable and it's everything you can do to make it work. Unless your ISP throttles gaming traffic, which some do, the bastards...
 
No, although it's probably the person whose connection is rarely five bars and commonly flicks about between 1 and 3 bars.
Don't know, and 2, respectively

I put this together a while back, and it's worth doing it all. There will doubtless be someone in your group that can't do it, won't do it, or says they have but haven't (herding 12 people is hard enough even when they're in the same place; 30 is a nightmare), and there is absolutely no cure for geographical distance, but this is pretty much all you can do to make sure your environment is as good as it can be:

AWESOME.... Thanky very much for your Tips...
 
People diagnosed a defective R2 for the automatic transmission not working as it should (stuck in one gear due to no full throttle being registered). Well, there is a trick whereby after you open your controller, you add 3-4 layers of electric tape to the underside of the plastic R2 trigger that touches the silicon contact pad. Another workaround is to revert to the default controller configuration in which X button is for gas and [square] button for brake. It will then work perfectly well and automatic transmission which requires full throttle will work well as well and won't get stuck in one gear.
Related threads:
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/automatic-gears-will-not-change.384347/
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...ss-acceleration-anymore.381331/#post-13129009
 
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People used to blame a defective R2 for the automatic transmission not working as its should (stuck in one gear due to no full throttle being registered). Well, turns out this is NOT a defective R2 issue. This is a GT Sport software bug that has been confirmed with a brand-new Sony DS4 controller. The only workaround is to revert to the default controller configuration in which X button is for gas and [square] button for brake. It will then work perfectly well and automatic transmission which requires full throttle will work well as well and won't get stuck in one gear.
Related threads:
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/automatic-gears-will-not-change.384347/
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...ss-acceleration-anymore.381331/#post-13129009
Another person confirming this bug:
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...ss-acceleration-anymore.381331/#post-12956359
So why was the issue in your first link fixed with another pad?
 
So why was the issue in your first link fixed with another pad?
There is a trick whereby after you open your controller, you add 3-4 layers of electric tape to the underside of the plastic R2 trigger that touches the silicon contact pad.
 
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There is a trick whereby after you open your controller, you add 3-4 layers of electric tape to the underside of the plastic R2 trigger that touches the silicon contact pad.
 
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Single player here with only one DS4 controller connected. Bug is only fixed by switching controller layout to X/[] for acceleration/brake. No luck with R2/L2. DS4 is brand-new Sony genuine that came with a new PS4 Pro.
Even a brand new controller can be faulty.
When ever I have had this problem a new controller has fixed it.
 
There is a trick whereby after you open your controller, you add 3-4 layers of electric tape to the underside of the plastic R2 trigger that touches the silicon contact pad.
 
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Please do not jump in when you don't know.
A reminder that Sony and PD doesn't frequent this thread,your chance of getting help are other forum members. When you only give partial information or change info as people respond you are coming across as a know-it-all and that is detrimental to getting help.
A positive attitude goes a long way.
The reason I didn't know was that you didn't tell.
 
Months roll by and still the same two cars in the Mileage Exchange.
No Subaru GrB for me so.

That's because of the change in how the Mile Exchange cycles now.

PD seem to now have this "grand plan" that they will go through every colour of a car before it moves onto the next one rather than giving us the next type of car as it used to.

I'm not tracking it specifically but if they continue with the Corvette next week then I think in about 4 weeks we might see the Subaru but only PD knows when it will next appear. :banghead:
 
That's because of the change in how the Mile Exchange cycles now.

PD seem to now have this "grand plan" that they will go through every colour of a car before it moves onto the next one rather than giving us the next type of car as it used to.

I'm not tracking it specifically but if they continue with the Corvette next week then I think in about 4 weeks we might see the Subaru but only PD knows when it will next appear. :banghead:

:grumpy:
 

I know, sucks!

Just remember one thing, there is no pain more painful than having multiple PSN's and having to grind these cars for however long this takes!

Me I'm currently trying to collect these cars on 4 PSN ID's, wasn't planned but that's how gaming goes!
 
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