GT6 Tyre Bug on MR/FR Cars
- Thread starter KPR_starbuck
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Ferrari458Italia
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- FerrariThugs
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- GTP_hasslemoff
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I have also noticed weird tyre problems in GT6. My friends and I race in various PP levels online for fun. In the 550PP range I like using my NSX Type R 2002, just like I did in GT5. To my surprise, my faithful NSX had became a terrible handling car, no matter what tune or tyres I used, I was always seconds behind my friends on any track. It particularly had no traction upon corner entry and exit at any speed, resulting in an unnatural oversteer which was VERY hard to correct.
Frustrated I studied my cars bad habits and realized anything I did to the suspension settings didn't affect my cars handling performance very much and by modifying my driving habits, to keep the car inline at racing speeds resulted in me never being able to keep up with s2000's and STI's(@550PP) , cars I know I could and should be able to eat for breakfast. So I then looked at the weight of my NSX. I noticed that my car was a little more rear heavy compared to the front. So I put a weight ballast in the front of the car and perfectly equalize the weight distribution of the car. I was amazed and happy to find out my NSX handled like a champion when I tested it out on the track. This is true to almost any MR car In GT6
In conclusion: It seems to
me that PD has a bug with their physics engine. In particular with their traction of the tyres in relation to the centrifugal force of the car rotating on its center of gravity. It's seems like even the smallest difference in weight from the front of the car to the back, will totally throw the car off balance even with the proper suspension, tyre sent up, and differential. This is a result of poor in house physics engine code.
Has anyone else noticed this or agree with what I said?
Frustrated I studied my cars bad habits and realized anything I did to the suspension settings didn't affect my cars handling performance very much and by modifying my driving habits, to keep the car inline at racing speeds resulted in me never being able to keep up with s2000's and STI's(@550PP) , cars I know I could and should be able to eat for breakfast. So I then looked at the weight of my NSX. I noticed that my car was a little more rear heavy compared to the front. So I put a weight ballast in the front of the car and perfectly equalize the weight distribution of the car. I was amazed and happy to find out my NSX handled like a champion when I tested it out on the track. This is true to almost any MR car In GT6
In conclusion: It seems to
me that PD has a bug with their physics engine. In particular with their traction of the tyres in relation to the centrifugal force of the car rotating on its center of gravity. It's seems like even the smallest difference in weight from the front of the car to the back, will totally throw the car off balance even with the proper suspension, tyre sent up, and differential. This is a result of poor in house physics engine code.
Has anyone else noticed this or agree with what I said?
- 2,913
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- phil_75
I can't get into GT6 properly because it feels as though there will be a patch to sort the physics out any day now.
Something just isn't right.
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- GTP_hasslemoff
If you have changed your wheels on your NSX have a read of this thread https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...e-same-width-changes-grip-and-balance.294129/ that might explain why it feels the way it does.
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- West Virginia
- HBR-Roadhog
- HBR Roadhog
I did some testing the other day online in practice mode. RS tires, tire wear set to very fast. When I pitted to change tires my next couple of laps were a bit slower but then when the tires came in I was right back to what I was running on the first set. The second set did appear to wear faster but maybe not as much as they do in the S Class races. I was using a FR car with a 500PP and custom wheels for the testing
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- GTP_hasslemoff
Try it in race mode, practice mode is ok.
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- HBR-Roadhog
- HBR Roadhog
Can you run in race mode by yourself? I haven't tried it to see for myself yet.
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- GTP_hasslemoff
Yep you can run a online race by yourself.
- 2,913
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- phil_75
Just found a car worse than the Audi R8.
The Motor Sport Elise 99!
If anyone thinks the physics aren't broken on some cars then drive this thing, it is an absolute joke.
Its like you have rear wheel steering.
It was one of my favourite cars in GT5 but it is just horrendous in GT6.
The Motor Sport Elise 99!
If anyone thinks the physics aren't broken on some cars then drive this thing, it is an absolute joke.
Its like you have rear wheel steering.
It was one of my favourite cars in GT5 but it is just horrendous in GT6.
Just here to confirm what the OP says. I ran a 7 lap online race at Nurburgring GP D by myself with the Team Phoenix R8 LMS Ultra; Normal Tire wear and fuel, no weather, time progress @ 1. I pitted at the end of lap 4 for new RH tires and fuel. My hot laps in the second stint were both more than 1.4 sec faster than the 2 hot laps in the first stint. But, the times don't even begin to tell the real difference. In the second stint the light, skating rear end feeling was completely gone; I could be much more aggressive with my steering, breaking and throttle inputs.
Like the OP says, I suspect that the change is actually happening on the front end though, as it felt like I had to break slightly earlier going into the final left, right chicane even though I could apply harder break pressure without wiggling the rear. Anyone who hasn't tried this for themselves really should. I can't believe this is how it is meant to work; the changes are so drastic and the balance changes so much I don't think this is explained by track temps or even tire temps.
Edit: For clarification I'm using a DualShock 3 and this was done with Ver. 1.02
Like the OP says, I suspect that the change is actually happening on the front end though, as it felt like I had to break slightly earlier going into the final left, right chicane even though I could apply harder break pressure without wiggling the rear. Anyone who hasn't tried this for themselves really should. I can't believe this is how it is meant to work; the changes are so drastic and the balance changes so much I don't think this is explained by track temps or even tire temps.
Edit: For clarification I'm using a DualShock 3 and this was done with Ver. 1.02
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- 56
- barfNZ
it's not a bug, it's rubber being left on the track, and when it rains you need to be on the wet line. i think it's more accurate and realistic, as just like in real life, times will get faster during the event.
the fact MR's like the Elise and NSX were over-represented in GT5 might be related
the fact MR's like the Elise and NSX were over-represented in GT5 might be related
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- Spurgy777
He says quoting someone in WRS Div 1 Gold and a GT Academy finalist
On topic, took the R8 LMS Oreca out, which handles like 🤬, around Brands Indy, first set of tyres it was doing it's usual nonsense of trying to spin you for no reason mid corner, did a 44.3. Then I pitted, filled up the tank, and the car handled like it should handle, it was all of a sudden very stable and I set a 43.0.
Now going to test an FR car.
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He says quoting someone in WRS Div 1 Gold and a GT Academy finalist
On topic, took the R8 LMS Oreca out, which handles like 🤬, around Brands Indy, first set of tyres it was doing it's usual nonsense of trying to spin you for no reason mid corner, did a 44.3. Then I pitted, filled up the tank, and the car handled like it should handle, it was all of a sudden very stable and I set a 43.0.
Now going to test an FR car.
Brands Hatch GP - long version ( second one on the track list ? ) Could you give details of the car power and tires used ? Thanks.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...ops-in-online-mode.294753/page-3#post-9186181
This thread is basically about the same thing.
It also happens offline in the "S" races.
I didi the 24mim Spa, Apricot Hill and Silverstone race and the car feels totally different after the stop.
Rear tire wear is much higher and handling changes.
If i stop after 5laps in Silverstone race i can barely finish because rears are shot, if i do 6/4 rear tires are still worse after the 2nd stint 4 laps compared to the first 6.
Apricot Hill the same i usually stop in 8/9th lap of 15, before pitstop rear over 50%, end of race they are finished, i have to be careful in last lap.
Front wear seems to be the same before/after pitstop.
My McLaren F1 Stealth handles a bit better after stop at high speed bends because it has less understeer.
But time is always worse than before stop, my feeling is it has less rear grip.
(Helps against high speed understeer but costs time out of slow corners)
In my opinion this is similar to the "custom rim rear tire width bug".
Having to narrow rear tires would explain the symptoms.
This thread is basically about the same thing.
It also happens offline in the "S" races.
I didi the 24mim Spa, Apricot Hill and Silverstone race and the car feels totally different after the stop.
Rear tire wear is much higher and handling changes.
If i stop after 5laps in Silverstone race i can barely finish because rears are shot, if i do 6/4 rear tires are still worse after the 2nd stint 4 laps compared to the first 6.
Apricot Hill the same i usually stop in 8/9th lap of 15, before pitstop rear over 50%, end of race they are finished, i have to be careful in last lap.
Front wear seems to be the same before/after pitstop.
My McLaren F1 Stealth handles a bit better after stop at high speed bends because it has less understeer.
But time is always worse than before stop, my feeling is it has less rear grip.
(Helps against high speed understeer but costs time out of slow corners)
In my opinion this is similar to the "custom rim rear tire width bug".
Having to narrow rear tires would explain the symptoms.
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- Spurgy777
Brands Indy circuit, the small version. As for the car, it's completely stock except I put full downforce on and change the tyres to racing softs as racing tyres seem to be the only tyres that bring out this bug.
I then tried a GTR GT500 Base model (an FR car if you don't know
), again completely default on racing soft tyres, went out and did a 42.0 on my first set, then I pitted, filled up, and could only do a 42.7.
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- RaceManiacGT1
Interestingly I did the X-Bow in the Ascari and Willow Spring races and the car seems fine after the stop. But I definitely had the tire issue with Le Mans 24 min in the Bentley...
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- GTP_hasslemoff
I find it interesting that people dont understand that this thread isn't about the handling of cars. Its about the bug after you have made a pit stop with the tyres.
Example: Lap times are slower in a FR car after you have made a pitstop and changed tyres while racing, online and in the S series offline, MR cars seem to be quicker after you have made the pit stop.
Also the tyre wear is different after you have made the pit stop.
So far i only heard that about the Audi R8 GT3's
All MR race cars i tested so far become slower after stop.
(F1 Stealth, V12LMR)
They have less understeer after the stop so maybe it is possible to improve time on some tracks with lots of high speed corners but only in 1st/2nd lap after stop, after that tire degredation kicks in and i get a lot slower than before stop.
This is for the "S" races with very high tire degradation, if you test it online with normal setting it may turn out different as you can do more laps before the tires slow you down.
I am not sure street cars are effected by this, i first thought so and told it in the "custom rim bug thread"
But no one agreed, everyone said there is no difference.
I'am not sure, street cars/tires are so sensitive, if you do a few slides tires are shot so it is hard to tell.
With race cars it is much much easier to see.
- 1,935
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- RaceManiacGT1
MR cars seem to be quicker after you have made the pit stop.
Also the tyre wear is different after you have made the pit stop.
Bentley was definitely not quicker....I don't notice the drop off as much on FR cars(M3 GT, HSV-010), since it doesn't quite manifest itself as a diabolical loss of braking stability like it does on the Bentley, I can brake in a straight line at Le Mans and it'll swap end on me....and I basically have to gingerly coast through the Porsche curves...
- 132
- lavosim
I agree, but I don't think it's same for all MR cars. From my experience I had exactly the same problem with R8 LMS. Without weight trick it's just weird car to drive. Countach on other hand is perfectly drivable, no matter the setting.
I think you're on to something, there is something wrong with how weight is simulated. The thing is, they redid whole physics around new weight system that in most cases works wonderfully, but since this is a game with thousand cars, they forgot to test it properly and are left with some cars where it doesn't work as it should.
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- 11,660
- GTP_Orido
Regarding R8 LMS, it only needs some changes to LSD, brake balance, and suspension ( front tire has much more grip than rear even on low speed coasting ). Brake balance has great impact, as in GT6 brake balance values do not work the same way as in GT5. Every car has preset bias even when the value is at 5/5. Try set the R8 LMS brake balance to 0/0 ( no abs ), the front will lock up first long before rear, then set 0/10, and the front will still lock first but the rear as well almost at the same time. Setting rear bias brake and 2 way LSD stabilize the car under trail braking.
R8 LMS issues seems to be more like to car parameters, PD gave it too much grip at the front ( chassis code ) + too much front bias brake, the easy way to restore the balance is use camber as camber also has a quirk, zero camber = max grip, now increase front camber to 2.5 or 3.0 and set rear at 0 camber. This alone will alter the grip balance of the R8 LMS in mid and corner exit.
For high speed corner, adjust the downforce to find the balance so the front grip won't overwhelmed the rear or the front push because too much rear grip.
No ballast necessary, stock 45/55 weight distribution is fine.
R8 LMS issues seems to be more like to car parameters, PD gave it too much grip at the front ( chassis code ) + too much front bias brake, the easy way to restore the balance is use camber
as camber also has a quirk, zero camber = max grip, now increase front camber to 2.5 or 3.0 and set rear at 0 camber. This alone will alter the grip balance of the R8 LMS in mid and corner exit.For high speed corner, adjust the downforce to find the balance so the front grip won't overwhelmed the rear or the front push because too much rear grip.
No ballast necessary, stock 45/55 weight distribution is fine.
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