I was using a DAEX32EP-4 on the back of my seat for the gear shift changes but I ended up blowing the transducer. I'm not sure why this happened since I didn't have the output on the amp turned up very high. These things are supposed to be able to handle 40W and I don't think I was feeding it more than 30W. I have a few more installed on the back of my seat now so I guess I'll see what happens.Looks like they'll hide nicely on the backrest of my seat. I have 4 of these coming tomorrow. and two BST1, under pedal and seat. so far just these feel great. cant way to add 4 more. and all these are supplied by NS-10G's and im using a NIssan GTR seat with a solid amazon rig.
any chance i can try some RACEBASS profiles? i like the whole race,sport concept.
Could be frequency. Can blow a speaker feeding it a quieter 40hz signal than a 900hz signal.I was using a DAEX32EP-4 on the back of my seat for the gear shift changes but I ended up blowing the transducer. I'm not sure why this happened since I didn't have the output on the amp turned up very high. These things are supposed to be able to handle 40W and I don't think I was feeding it more than 30W. I have a few more installed on the back of my seat now so I guess I'll see what happens.
I too would like to try some more profiles if that's still an option. I'm currently using the road vibrations V3 profile that he posted in the earlier pages and have it assigned to the buttkicker under my seat and the buttkicker under my pedals. I find this profile to be excellent and much better than the previous two versions he posted.
Hmmm... this might have something to do with it since the signal I was sending to it was 44hz. Maybe this is too low for these tranducers. The 44hz is the default frequency for the gear shifts in simhub. Maybe using Mr.Latte's gear shift profile would be easier on them. My amp is a 50w 4-channel amp that Mr.Latte recommended earlier in this thread. Not sure if he or anyone else in this thread have had any similar issues blowing these tranducers.Could be frequency. Can blow a speaker feeding it a quieter 40hz signal than a 900hz signal.
Also matching power can help. So 100w for 100w speaker, not a 50w amp for a 100w speaker.
I believe it is better to have a 150w amp feeding 100w speakers than a 50w amp feeding 100w speakers. It’s a cleaner sound.
Not sure how shakers work but I assume it’s a similar thing. I remember when I was younger learning you can wreck a speaker by cranking a low power amp trying to drive high watt handling speakers.
I have one stuffed pretty high in my seat, I blew it but had my brother over and I cranked everything for a bit kind of showing it all off. Wasn’t but a few days later I noticed I lost the mid back center puck. I replaced it and turned it down a little, it’s been good so far. I imagine it may eventually go again since it‘s kind of buried in the seat. I think I had mine around 44hz I’d have to check.Hmmm... this might have something to do with it since the signal I was sending to it was 44hz. Maybe this is too low for these tranducers. The 44hz is the default frequency for the gear shifts in simhub. Maybe using Mr.Latte's gear shift profile would be easier on them. My amp is a 50w 4-channel amp that Mr.Latte recommended earlier in this thread. Not sure if he or anyone else in this thread have had any similar issues blowing these tranducers.
I have one stuffed pretty high in my seat, I blew it but had my brother over and I cranked everything for a bit kind of showing it all off. Wasn’t but a few days later I noticed I lost the mid back center puck. I replaced it and turned it down a little, it’s been good so far. I imagine it may eventually go again since it‘s kind of buried in the seat. I think I had mine around 44hz I’d have to check.
One thing I noticed was I had everything too high, I have the G Pro wheel and it’ll rumble and shake the rig all on its own. Well with my pucks cranked it was sort of masking the wheel in my opinion. So I’ve since turned things down to be a little more subtle. I still notice immediately if it’s all turned off but it doesn’t over power the wheel anymore.
If feels more real to me, it would really rumble and rattle you before which is kind of unrealistic, a motion rig should jostle you around, the shakers should simply do vibrations.
I took apart the “blown” puck and found nothing was actually blown, there’s some plastic in there that acts as supports and that had cracked causing the two pieces to rub. I tried fixing it but my hands are fairly shaky and by the time I got the piece super glued in to hold I had broken the two tiny wires somewhere. A steadier hand and I would have been able to save it as I had it working. Oh well, $20 It cost me for trying. Haha
Thanks but it’s too late. My hands are shaky and because of that I ended up breaking the wires somewhere in an unreachable spot. Can’t solder for obvious reasons. I’ve got the new one in there and it’s been fine so far. I think it’s been longer than the original one so that’s good.Glue an opened out and cut to size paper clip to the broken plastic arm.
For anyone interested. I am covering a lot about tactile as well as info about effects and comparing those new exciters with Simagics HPR unit in my New Tactile 2024 thread on Race Department forums. As a topic it is maybe more suited over there as more people have or use it.
New Tactile Hardware 2023 / 2024
Intro It has been a while since I did a thread on tactile here... Appears we have new hardware options to consider and that Simhub also has had improvements with its support for tactile immersion. In recent times we are also seeing a current trend for tactile/haptics in pedals. Thread...www.racedepartment.com
This could help:I have been reading through this thread, and I have to admit that I'm very confused on what I need to do and buy in order to add this to my setup. The most confusing part is whether to use a two or four channel amp. Can someone please post a list of recommended hardware.
Here is the seat that I have.
Thank you
Hi, thanks for your input and questions.
Will share some old images used on previous discussions, 2-3 years ago relating to the early experimentation I started doing with this approach. I don't want to go too deep into this part of what I will be sharing (will get its own thread in time).
This gives you an indication of how you can start with even 2 exciter units (very affordable) but work towards a multi-channel installation to suit your own preference or seat. Just stick-on with included (3M sticky back) but it's possible to use other stronger solutions for mounting too.
The "exciters" are not noisy but they can also operate as speakers, having some degree of additional tones that complements the tactile can enhance the felt sensations. It is possible to reduce the frequencies within Simhub (crossover) for the effects.
I have tested/combined other additional hardware I will share in the (later guide) that makes it easy to also enjoy or combine both (game audio tactile) and (Simhub Shakeit). Let's say you had 4.6.8 units on the back of the seat, this would let you determine how/what you send to each pair and if you want a split 40/60 mix of both sources to any units. If you want only audio tactile, to any/all then no problems. Or if you want just audio tactile only going to one pair, then this is all within the users control. On top of this being able to alter the levels via bas/treble EQ controls individually for each pair of units. All done with simple knob controls a 5 year old could manage.
*Note that I have worked extensively on ways to incorporate better tactile effects and it's also possible for specific effects to have individual elements that go to multiple channels to represent the effect's full sensation.
I do not have to restrict the effect design/output to only one unit or pair. This is how/why with this approach it's not possible with 4-way installs to achieve the detail and body immersion with these more advanced effects I can come up with.
Speaking of which I haven't shared much of my newer efforts with effects, in probably a year, but much time has been spent on my own testing, so what gets made/released here will be new.
Another aspect in which I may be different is that from a hobbyist perspective, I invested heavily in various hardware/software monitoring/visualizers. These are useful for understanding how and what any effects or audio from a game is generating. I'm not a musician or professional, just passionate regards tactile. For (me) these tools bring valuable benefits and helped a lot with my own learning curve in effects creation with Simhub and doing comparisons with different settings or approaches.
Just one example of monitoring audio I can use...
Okay so moving on.....
I will recommend two amps that will work well with the DAEX32EP-4, but keep in mind these are only 40w units and you will not even need that much wattage. We need to be careful not to overpower them....
To give you an indication of the exciters size.
Behringer EPQ304
Rack mountable 4 channel amp that will power 4x exciters easily and would be my no.1 preference.
This amp can also power Clark TST units or other budget transducers but I would not recommend it for any of the (piston-based) BK units. The only drawback with this amp is, to change out the 2x small (quite loud) fans but this can easily be done (@30 mins) and many have gone with quieter Noctua fans.
Nobsound M4
This is a budget amp for powering 4x channels for budget transducers (again not piston-type units like BK)
Hope it helps or is an encouragement to get some interested!!!
The plan is to 1st offer effects that will suit the budget tactile many people already own but specific and more advanced effects will be made and shared (ongoing) for this RaceBass approach I came up with and build my own advanced effects for.
Thanks Skills. You're alright no matter what JLBowler says about you.This could help:
I run Dayton pucks and nobsound amps. They work good for me.I have been reading through this thread, and I have to admit that I'm very confused on what I need to do and buy in order to add this to my setup. The most confusing part is whether to use a two or four channel amp. Can someone please post a list of recommended hardware.
Here is the seat that I have.
Thank you
How are you connecting multiple amps to your computer? I have an inexpensive laptop which will run SimHub, but it has limited USB ports. Thank you.I run Dayton pucks and nobsound amps. They work good for me.
When you get into the four channel amps, I think you need to get a sound card. I have no experience with the four channel amps but I believe whether you have two or four channel amps, in SimHub, each puck or exciter gets its own effect if you want. So it’s more about visual. I guess less cables or cleaner setup with a four channel amp.
I’ve got four two channel amps. I didn’t want to research soundcards at the time. It’s still a clean setup but ideally would be nice to have one 8 channel amp to power on and be done with it. Only takes me five seconds to flip four switches though. I think I could get that down to 3 seconds if I really practiced.
My laptop is from 2009, it was $330 then, don’t know the specs. Celeron something? Acer. I just used a usb hub I got off Amazon for $12. Anker 4 port usb hub. It’s on sale again, in Canada anyway.How are you connecting multiple amps to your computer? I have an inexpensive laptop which will run SimHub, but it has limited USB ports. Thank you.
Ha. Hey come back and race in SNAIL with your VR. @Dragonwhisky is on a new level.Thanks Skills. You're alright no matter what JLBowler says about you.
I'll give it another shot, if they'll have me.Ha. Hey come back and race in SNAIL with your VR. @Dragonwhisky is on a new level.
We now have 2 divisions again. Admittedly @JLBowler is someone I admire and take his forthrightness akin to @Famine.
For which game? Gran Turismo? If so, not difficult at all. Follow the instructions found on the SimHub website for it. But those two numbers you have to type in, seperate with a comma but don’t put a space after the comma. I spent longer than I’d like to admit trying to figure out why I did everything correct and it still wasn’t working.So, I ordered three amps, and six exciters. They should all arrive tomorrow. Then comes the fun of placement and setting up the software. How hard is SimHub to set up?
Not rambling at all. This is great advice and I'm very grateful.For which game? Gran Turismo? If so, not difficult at all. Follow the instructions found on the SimHub website for it. But those two numbers you have to type in, seperate with a comma but don’t put a space after the comma. I spent longer than I’d like to admit trying to figure out why I did everything correct and it still wasn’t working.
In school we were taught a space goes after a comma. Not the case in SimHub haha
That’s to open the ports and such.
As for setting effects. Start with one that you want to be prominent, set it how you want, then build it all up around that. If something is at 45hz, don’t put the other frequencies at exactly the same.
Also think in terms of depth. Like if you’re mixing music, if you want something to sound far away and you cant eq high end off of the sound, turn it down.
Not everything has to be the same volume or strength.
I personally set one up, then another, drove a bit, then set another, shut one off, drove a bit, tweaked, then turn all three back on, then added another. Repeat. Until you find something you like. But definitely turn one effect on, drive and set it. Essentially soloing out each effect and experiencing what it does before beginning to layer.
Sorry bit of a ramble.
My uncle had told me when he got his all up and running, it felt best when you almost don’t even notice it until you run it without and realize something is missing. I’ve got mine a bit stronger than that but not by much. Thinking of driving a car around, it’s not like there’s that many vibrations happening.Not rambling at all. This is great advice and I'm very grateful.
Remember the no space after the comma. The numbers are like 377004 or something like that. There’s two numbers you need. However Im wired in both ps and pc so maybe it’s easier that way.The amps and two of the six exciters arrived yesterday, so I started to do a little bit of assembly and testing. I installed one of the exciters under my pedal assembly, and I was able to successfully send a test signal to it, but I'm having issues getting SimHub to link up with GT7. The other four exciters arrive today, so hopefully I can figure out my issue(s) tonight.
Oh I’ve never got the launcher to work. Just boot up the PS5 and then start SimHub. Go to settings in SimHub and input the PS5s IP address and it’ll connectOkay, so I opened my firewall for udp ports 33739& 33740, but I still have an issue with game start when I hit game start in SimHub. See attached.
All I did was click on GT7, it says it can’t do it. I leave it alone and start the game and it launches itself. Whoever made SimHub is awesome. But here also a computer whiz so there’s a lot that doesn’t make sense to me. Like how to save settings. Why do I have to export. Why isn’t it just called save? HahaOkay, so I opened my firewall for udp ports 33739& 33740, but I still have an issue with game start when I hit game start in SimHub. See attached.
It always says game disconnected for me until I go on track. Then the header says game connected and everything comes to life.Oh I’ve never got the launcher to work. Just boot up the PS5 and then start SimHub. Go to settings in SimHub and input the PS5s IP address and it’ll connect
Awesome welcome to the club. Have fun.Thanks for your help guys. I really appreciate it. I've installed and tested two exciters, and they are working. Now I'm installing the other two amps and four exciters. Wish me luck.