Gt7 daily races and advice needed

[flying-chick]

Hi racers 🙂

Finally I got some time on my hand, to try and work out my dilemma, and to try to get to grips with using the ps5, but Im still have some issue, and I could do with some advice please.


But first of all After much to learn, as I've only had my ps5 a few months now, but I've only had about 1 weeks worth of playing time, i finally worked out how to upload a video.

This one is the current daily race which is now on live today, brands hatch, Gt4 bop applied etc.

I'm using a controler in this demo, as I'm still having many issues with a wheel and pedals, after sending my Logitech pro back, and opting for a thrustmaster instead.

I got a 1 min 38.7, but my optimal time is 1 min 38.1 which I'm yet to get, which is only just half a second of the top 100, also if possible could someone one upload a faster time with a controler, as I still think my controller may be faulty, as I'm so use to equaling world records, when I was on Forza. My issue with the controller is sometimes the stiffness of the triggers changes, so I'm now having to use it with stiffness of. My friend say this can be normal, but I'm not so sure.



I've quickly now just moved into the b class league, and I'm starting to enjoy the races there a lot better,

But still I'm still very inconsistent with my wheel and pedals which I never use to be.

I'm needing some advice on my pedals firstly, I have no idea if there faulty at present, they are second hand and I've only had them 2 weeks after sending my Logitech G pro back, which was also hardly used. But the first issues is the race pedal raw values in green on pedal calibration software, which does not go up the same way as all the other raw values, is this normal ?

As on the clutch and the accelerator the raw values go all the way to a 100 percent along side the other indicator in sync etc.

I take my racing very seriously and as you can see from my picture upload I practice research,.do my homework, learn the track, as im sure most of my fellow racers would do,


Thanks in advance for any advice, all the best and happy new year ❤️.

 

[Famine]

My issue with the controller is sometimes the stiffness of the triggers changes, so I'm now having to use it with stiffness of. My friend say this can be normal, but I'm not so sure.

That's a standard feature of the DualSense controller. They're called "adaptive triggers" and they're designed to convey addition information in games that support them - such as ABS activation or wheelspin in GT7.

 

[flying-chick]

That's a standard feature of the DualSense controller. They're called "adaptive triggers" and they're designed to convey addition information in games that support them - such as ABS activation or wheelspin in GT7.

Hi, this is more or less what I've been told under normal circumstances, that this is how the controller works.

Besides this normal function you've mentioned something else is happening to my controller also where by my triggers just go loose and loose stiffness all together.

It also fluctuates, some times it can be the brake other times it's the accelerator.

I then reboot the ps5 fully charged the controller and it corrects it's self.

Other times it's been functioning normal, before I go into a daily race, as soon as an online race starts one of the triggers as gone loose, im then struggling to compete at this stage, so I then have to just see the race out, then reboot and it's ok, this is also happening when my controller is plugged in and fully charged.

 

[whiteusagi]

With your PS5 being only a couple months old you should still have the manufacturer's warranty available. You should send your controller in to be repaired/replaced, as the behavior you describe clearly sounds as though you're holding onto a defective unit.

 

[flying-chick]

With your PS5 being only a couple months old you should still have the manufacturer's warranty available. You should send your controller in to be repaired/replaced, as the behavior you describe clearly sounds as though you're holding onto a defective unit.

possibly or it's a glitch that happens sometimes at the start of an online race,

How ever I'm now starting to get just as fast with the stiffness off, I think I'll persevere a bit longer.

Before sending my controller back, or ps5, but these things niggle me, and play with my concentration.

I've only just noticed via watching YouTube videos that people are changing there fuel from lean to power and there break bias during race to be more at the back from the front, to try and do a full race without changing there tyres, I've never knew this feature.

I wonder now if I switched my fuel to power would i get quicker laps, I think one guy had his fuel set to power a long time, I'm not sure if he did it for the whole ten laps at brands hatch daily races with your fuel set to power, or whether you could,

I don't even know at this stage how he did it, or how I can do it perhaps someone could inform me 🙂

But I'm thinking is it set to balanced unless you change it to either lean or power and if you do change it does it stay on power for a qualifier lap ?. Or even does it make a difference to lap time, I'm assuming if you set it to power you would go faster but use more fuel ?

Or even the brake bias can you change that for a qualifier lap, as I'm thinking I could be easily posting a 1.37. which would then put me back where I want to be competing with the world record holders.

I'll be checking tomorrow if I can do this.

 

[whiteusagi]

possibly or it's a glitch that happens sometimes at the start of an online race,

It's not happened to me in the past, and judging by the lack of similar complaints from other users in this community regarding the controller haptics just going limp at race starts, I'm still going to say that if I were in your shoes I would send in my controller for repair/replacement as that is not expected behavior. But it's your warranty and your choice.

I've only just noticed via watching YouTube videos that people are changing there fuel from lean to power and there break bias during race to be more at the back from the front, to try and do a full race without changing there tyres, I've never knew this feature.

I wonder now if I switched my fuel to power would i get quicker laps, I think one guy had his fuel set to power a long time, I'm not sure if he did it for the whole ten laps at brands hatch daily races with your fuel set to power, or whether you could,

Yes, easily changed. If you have not manually configured your controls far beyond what is available by default then you can switch the multi-function display (MFD) using controller pad (left/right to swap between map, radar, weather, times, fuel, brake balance, etc., and up/down to adjust said function). Fuel is set to full power by default, and can be adjusted down by the player for fuel saving or other use cases, but only during scenarios where fuel usage is taken into consideration. As you will not run out of fuel in qualifying for the current daily races, you are automatically locked at full power usage, and as such are not being hindered unknowingly.

Or even the brake bias can you change that for a qualifier lap, as I'm thinking I could be easily posting a 1.37. which would then put me back where I want to be competing with the world record holders.

Brake balance can be adjusted for qualifying as long as the vehicle/settings allow for it, and even corner-to-corner should you choose to do so. I'm glad to see that you are very confident in your abilities, but with a current time that sits #1,737 in the world (still before the weekend grind) and 1.796 seconds slower than the current world record I imagine you may have a long road ahead of you.

 

[flying-chick]

It's not happened to me in the past, and judging by the lack of similar complaints from other users in this community regarding the controller haptics just going limp at race starts, I'm still going to say that if I were in your shoes I would send in my controller for repair/replacement as that is not expected behavior. But it's your warranty and your choice.

Yes, easily changed. If you have not manually configured your controls far beyond what is available by default then you can switch the multi-function display (MFD) using controller pad (left/right to swap between map, radar, weather, times, fuel, brake balance, etc., and up/down to adjust said function). Fuel is set to full power by default, and can be adjusted down by the player for fuel saving or other use cases, but only during scenarios where fuel usage is taken into consideration. As you will not run out of fuel in qualifying for the current daily races, you are automatically locked at full power usage, and as such are not being hindered unknowingly.

Brake balance can be adjusted for qualifying as long as the vehicle/settings allow for it, and even corner-to-corner should you choose to do so. I'm glad to see that you are very confident in your abilities, but with a current time that sits #1,737 in the world (still before the weekend grind) and 1.796 seconds slower than the current world record I imagine you may have a long road ahead of you.

Thanks 😊 perhaps I may need to send it back.


I'll be trying the brake bias during qualifying tomorrow in different corners, as of the moment I literally only have an hour each night for the next week to practice, not ideal but hopefully that should make me more determined. I can get that 1.7 gap down to one second , judging by by my optimal sectors on different laps, I've just not done so yet, but fingers crossed I will soon,

I hear from all these a class drivers online, that brands hatch is notorious difficult to master, but I feel perhaps the fastest laps are won on the first corner, if you build up the right speed before the first corner you'll always trail break that little bit quicker and have better momentum going into the next corner, I never hardly see any world record holders posting consecutive world record times, but I'm thinking perhaps they are changing there break bias before certain corners 😊 and on this track,

When I was on Forza nearly ever race was won or lost on the first corner, for instance on brands hatch before first the bend getting up to 113 mph just before you break makes the difference than just say 112 mph. Which really is only dependant on how well your trail breaking is on the last band driving into the home straight, as to whether you hit 113, before the first corner.

And there is one long trail just before it to. which requires pinpoint accuracy, which hardly everyone nails to perfection every time I've noticed.

This is where the race is won and lost I feal, right on that first bend.

I feal it's like this for most races really,.

 

[daan]

You must be so unlucky that you've used a controller and 2 different wheels that have all been faulty/glitchy. What are the chances?

 

[flying-chick]

You must be so unlucky that you've used a controller and 2 different wheels that have all been faulty/glitchy. What are the chances?

I'm not sure 😊 but do you have Some load cell pedals ?.

I've now got T-lcm pedals, which are like new but I did get them second hand, I'm hoping somebody can confirm I may have a fault with them or it's just the way they are, or I need a mod.

I'll be back home from work soon, so I'll post a picture of what I'm seeing on the calibration software that thrustmaster offer.

Even when I apply as hard as brake as possible I'm still not able to slow tha car down quick enough on corners that require full brake.

On my calibration software the raw values on the brake is not going up no where near the same distance as the other raw values, and the amount of force required to get the raw value to even hit 60 % is so not achievable for me, and the amount of force required to get the raw value to hit over 60 percent is just crazy.

I've tried different spring combos, but it does not make a difference to me being able to slow down quick enough on full break corners.

It really is something I've never had an issue with before today.

Perhaps I'm expecting to much to soon, which has crossed my mind, but with being so good on Forza, it's just something I'm not used to at present, that is.

But really it's worth pointing out that when your within 1 second of a world record the speed in which you go round a whole track is only a 1 mph difference, for instance if you do a set speed of 151 mph over 5 miles you get s time of 119 secs and if you do it at 150 mph you get a time of 120 secs, so just 1 mph makes a difference, so perhaps it really not me but more the car I'm training with, and it's more likely I need to now adjust the brake bias, which as of yesterday I've only just noticed you can.

I've noticed on Gt7 also a lot of people get better results with different cars in different tracks, and just yesterday i only just noticed that you have to change your oil 😊 on gt7, as in my garage it showed up as my oil being worn, which made me laugh 😂

But I wondered if not changing your oil makes a difference to lap times.

But I figure it must do. but does anyone know if there's is any indication your oil needs changing ?

With a wheel also, my driving lines can be more consistent like when im taking a corner I'll aim for the white bits at the end of the red tracks rumble skirts on the opposite side, right before turning in, and in Forza.this was always at perfection levels on a wheel for me,

So having a wheel and pedals i gel with is also important to me, I can get it to the same level with a controler but I may end up getting one corner slightly off. As you may spot that in the demo I posted.

This is where my problem is, as of the moment I'm hitting those marks better with a controler, it's still fun but I do prefer the real deal,

I'm back home now, 😊 how do I stop merging posts ? And how do I know if I am ?


So I've uploaded some pictures of the t-lcm calibration software, picture one represents how much the raw value is going up on the brake, which takes to much force for me to achieve, and picture 2 represents how much it can go up to under extreme force, is this normal,

As you see in the picture the raw values in the clutch and accelerator which are indicated in green, go to 100 percent but the brakr does not.

Will it make a difference if I buy a mod for £14.00, there a plastic spring, people are raving about them, but would this change this ?

 

[timekiller001]

I don't own a Thrustmaster wheel, so I can't say much about it, but in the calibration software photos it says "Brake Force = 70"
Try lowering that setting, so you can hit 100% brake force comfortably.

And please, don't continue your references to Forza. The handling models are so different that a comparison doesn't make much sense.

 

[flying-chick]

I don't own a Thrustmaster wheel, so I can't say much about it, but in the calibration software photos it says "Brake Force = 70"
Try lowering that setting, so you can hit 100% brake force comfortably.

And please, don't continue your references to Forza. The handling models are so different that a comparison doesn't make much sense.

Thanks you trying to help but This makes no difference to the raw values, it only makes a difference to how far you need to press the pedal in.

Regardless of how you set the percentage wise whether it's 50 % or 70 % the pedal still need to be pressed all the way to the floor for the raw values to go,

Well at least on mine it does.

I'm just not strong enough I think as I'm only weigh 9 stone, and I'm really not a strong person in my legs, to press as hard as it's taking to get the raw value to even close to 50 percent, I've even had some very strong men try and they struggle to even push it to 60, it can go out to 70 percent, but as you can see from the pictures it's not going mo where near that.

I've done some research,. Apparently the load cell comes as 100 kg load cell as standard.

I'm not sure how true that is or what that means entirely, but part of advice given in this Youtube video was you can get a lesser load cell than 100 kg that doesn't require as much force.

However after researching and searching everywhere I can't find no such thing or even a load cell replacement.

I've had 6 different people trying to brake on 100 percent braking corners and everyone has said you shouldn't need to press your break that hard to even get iclose to stopping in time, before the bend runs out.,.it's so severe the force I need to apply that it makes my delicate little gentle knees and hips hurt 🤕

A for Forza comparing, I don't know how to take what your saying, or why your asking me not to compare.

But I can't see what difference there is between doing brans hatch in Forza or on Gt7.

If I remember correctly the track is identical.

My drive lines and trail breaking is the same, so is my key points of turning in, all my tactics are the same. I suppose graphics wise it seems to be better on the ps5, but apart from that I can't see any other difference.

My time has been done what of disappointment now for 3 months.

Because I'm still one second behind world records.

I can't even go in an online race at the moment untill I get my hardware situation sorted out.

And as a result it's starting to depress me.

I don't think most people would like to be in this situation


And I really could do with some advice

 

[timekiller001]

Well first of all sounds like your expectations are simply too high.

Regarding the pedals, are you sure they are not broken? Loadcells should have a rather short amount of travel, as the force is the important factor here.

 

[flying-chick]

Well first of all sounds like your expectations are simply too high.

Regarding the pedals, are you sure they are not broken? Loadcells should have a rather short amount of travel, as the force is the important factor here.

My expectations are one thing but not racing online is my biggest disappointment, as this is where you gain your confidence and get your most enjoyment.

I've only had two b class races where I've not had any hardware problems. And I won no problem.


But what I'm trying to find out,.but with nobody posting any raw values from there software calibration charts I can't compare.

But my gut feeling is I have a dodgy load cell, as no matter what setting or springs i change I can't stop in time on bends that require 100 percent. Daytona is a classic example.. first Bend. I'm very lucky if i stop in time to turn at the end of the bend, so trail breaking is a complete joke at present with my pedals the wheel is fine.

But if I put none load cell pedals on the wheel there ok but the pedals are from a cheaper Thrustmaster wheel and there not great especially the accelerator


My main disappointment is at present is I'm good enough to be in the a class races and winning.

I don't know if you know erriesss who does an a class live stream every Monday on YouTube . But some weeks I beat his times and he's winning a class events on a Monday, maybe that may be a different story if he raced towards the end of the week.

But anyway I'm missing out at present as the only reason I have a ps5 and and a monthly subscription is to race gt7 online. That's it

The world record side is. A bonus and I know that will come, but I'm more bothered about actually getting back into racing online.

 

[whiteusagi]

No idea if Thrustmaster works the same as with Fanatec, but for my pedal (CSL Elite V2) set I’m using a brake force of 25-30 to achieve 100% braking in a manner that works for me consistently. As already mentioned, try turning your brake force as low as the setting will go and attempt to reach 100% brake force. If that still doesn’t make any difference then yes, you likely have yet another faulty piece of equipment you need repaired/replaced.

 

[flying-chick]

No idea if Thrustmaster works the same as with Fanatec, but for my pedal (CSL Elite V2) set I’m using a brake force of 25-30 to achieve 100% braking in a manner that works for me consistently. As already mentioned, try turning your brake force as low as the setting will go and attempt to reach 100% brake force. If that still doesn’t make any difference then yes, you likely have yet another faulty piece of equipment you need repaired/replaced.

I've tried that, still the same result. I'm under the impression that even with the brake force turned right down the load cell still has to be compressed ?

I'm bit gutted really because the pedals I had on my previous wheel where working for me.

I may just end up buying a whole new wheel soon

Any how maybe I'll see you all online soon in a class events,.

Take care ❤️

 

[whiteusagi]

The load cell is a sensor that measures the amount of force placed on it. So yes, you need to be applying pressure on. Where I assume brake force comes in is that not everybody can or wish to apply 100kg of force against a 100kg load cell in order to attain 100% brake force. So in theory if you turn your brake force down to 10% you would then only need 10kg of force against a 100kg load cell in order to achieve 100% brake force. However, you mention that regardless of the setting that nothing changes whatsoever, so you probably have a(nother) defective unit. Good luck.

 

[flying-chick]

The load cell is a sensor that measures the amount of force placed on it. So yes, you need to be applying pressure on. Where I assume brake force comes in is that not everybody can or wish to apply 100kg of force against a 100kg load cell in order to attain 100% brake force. So in theory if you turn your brake force down to 10% you would then only need 10kg of force against a 100kg load cell in order to achieve 100% brake force. However, you mention that regardless of the setting that nothing changes whatsoever, so you probably have a(nother) defective unit. Good luck.

Thanks again I'm fully understanding your explanation here. It may even be something that works for most people I guess , I've just had an email of a friend telling me to swap the lead from the wheel as he heard of person having a similar issue to me. He swapped his lead and it fixed the issue, but he also mentioned something about an earth wired can come loose inside the pedal set, maybe I should try this and also use your principle here. But I've also been reading the load cells can go defective on these pedals.

I was watching erriesss on YouTube yesterday and he mentioned he had t-lcm pedals but there in storage. Hmm I wonder why in stead he's using the standard none load pedals that come with the t598 wheel. I've though about buying this wheel. But I'm really not sure, I noticed his wheel was osculating a lot in race all the way through the track which puts me off,. But I'm almost certain he's only using it as he has a contract with thrustmaster to advertise his wheel and win A Class events live on streams every Monday, 😂

I think the wheel and pedals must be that bad he has to race every Monday to win an event to keep his contract with thrustmaster 😂

Or else if he doesn't win no one will want to buy t598.

I'm normally on the ball with these things 🤣

I'm seriously considering buying one of your wheels. There does not seem to be any complaints

 

[Scaff]

Thanks you trying to help but This makes no difference to the raw values, it only makes a difference to how far you need to press the pedal in.

Regardless of how you set the percentage wise whether it's 50 % or 70 % the pedal still need to be pressed all the way to the floor for the raw values to go,

Well at least on mine it does.

I'm just not strong enough I think as I'm only weigh 9 stone, and I'm really not a strong person in my legs, to press as hard as it's taking to get the raw value to even close to 50 percent, I've even had some very strong men try and they struggle to even push it to 60, it can go out to 70 percent, but as you can see from the pictures it's not going mo where near that.

I've done some research,. Apparently the load cell comes as 100 kg load cell as standard.

I'm not sure how true that is or what that means entirely, but part of advice given in this Youtube video was you can get a lesser load cell than 100 kg that doesn't require as much force.

However after researching and searching everywhere I can't find no such thing or even a load cell replacement.

I've had 6 different people trying to brake on 100 percent braking corners and everyone has said you shouldn't need to press your break that hard to even get iclose to stopping in time, before the bend runs out.,.it's so severe the force I need to apply that it makes my delicate little gentle knees and hips hurt 🤕

A for Forza comparing, I don't know how to take what your saying, or why your asking me not to compare.

But I can't see what difference there is between doing brans hatch in Forza or on Gt7.

If I remember correctly the track is identical.

My drive lines and trail breaking is the same, so is my key points of turning in, all my tactics are the same. I suppose graphics wise it seems to be better on the ps5, but apart from that I can't see any other difference.

My time has been done what of disappointment now for 3 months.

Because I'm still one second behind world records.

I can't even go in an online race at the moment untill I get my hardware situation sorted out.

And as a result it's starting to depress me.

I don't think most people would like to be in this situation


And I really could do with some advice

I've run the same pedals for around 3 years, a couple of things that you need to be aware of when calibrating them.

Load cell pedals work on the force applied, as such it's possible to set them up to still require pressure to be applied even after you have reached the end of brake travel.

The Brake Force value is how hard you need to adopt brake force before you hit a 100% raw value.

Raw value is how much pressure you are applying to the pedal, it's possible for this to be less than 100 and still achieve full brake force.

Final Value is the brake output force, once it hits 100% (bar is full) you are at maximum braking.

Use a lower Brake Force value to get full braking with less pressure applied to the brake, and higher values to need more pressure to get full braking.

Remember the values are not saved to the pedal memory until you unplug the USB. Also don't have it plugged into both the wheel base and PC at the same time when trying to use it to race, really messes them up.

Now while race cars in the real works can require more than 100kgs of force for full braking, and load cell brakes aim to emulate this. That doesn't mean you need to set yours that way, set them to what works for you.

 

[flying-chick]

I've run the same pedals for around 3 years, a couple of things that you need to be aware of when calibrating them.

Load cell pedals work on the force applied, as such it's possible to set them up to still require pressure to be applied even after you have reached the end of brake travel.

The Brake Force value is how hard you need to adopt brake force before you hit a 100% raw value.

Raw value is how much pressure you are applying to the pedal, it's possible for this to be less than 100 and still achieve full brake force.

Final Value is the brake output force, once it hits 100% (bar is full) you are at maximum braking.

Use a lower Brake Force value to get full braking with less pressure applied to the brake, and higher values to need more pressure to get full braking.

Remember the values are not saved to the pedal memory until you unplug the USB. Also don't have it plugged into both the wheel base and PC at the same time when trying to use it to race, really messes them up.

Now while race cars in the real works can require more than 100kgs of force for full braking, and load cell brakes aim to emulate this. That doesn't mean you need to set yours that way, set them to what works for you.

Thanks for posting 🙂.

I was thinking that possibly the brake force Raw value does not need to go up 100 percent to achieve full brake I was thinking this on the bases that the raw values must work different for brake because of the load cell


But you mentioned it can hit 100 percent, I'm wondering if this only happens for somebody extremely strong and able to apply 100 kgs of pressure

Or is it the other way to, I don't know if I'm right here, but say if I get my pedals working and I reduce the brake force to say 20 percent from it's current set value which is 70 percent, would I only need to apply 20 kg of pressure to achieve a 100 percent load cell raw value indication on the software meter ?

As I'm assuming for every 10 percent of break force on the calibration software must represent kg also, what I'm thinking is,.let's say you set your break to 70 percent force should that be reducing the load cell to only need 70 kg of pressure to make the raw value go up to 100 percent on the software calibration meter ?

And if I set the brake force to say 20 percent would that then mean the load cell will now only need 20 kg of pressure for the raw value to go up to 100 percent on the software calibration meter, as in the green indicator ?.

I hope you can see where I'm coming from, but I'm thinking surely this is how they must operate ?

But thanks again would it be possible if you have the time,. you could could upload a few picture of your raw values,.under what you would consider a normal 100 percent brake pressure applied.in the race.

This would really help me out to see how far I need to go to get the pedals.working.

Picture 1 represents how much my brake raw value is going up under my normal 100 percent.brake but it's not really normal for me because it takes to much pressure, and I really get that value more like 25 percent and then picture 2 is from a test done by a very strong man who had to use all his strength to get it that high

 

[Scaff]

Thanks for posting 🙂.

I was thinking that possibly the brake force Raw value does not need to go up 100 percent to achieve full brake I was thinking this on the bases that the raw values must work different for brake because of the load cell


But you mentioned it can hit 100 percent, I'm wondering if this only happens for somebody extremely strong and able to apply 100 kgs of pressure

Or is it the other way to, I don't know if I'm right here, but say if I get my pedals working and I reduce the brake force to say 20 percent from it's current set value which is 70 percent, would I only need to apply 20 kg of pressure to achieve a 100 percent load cell raw value indication on the software meter ?

As I'm assuming for every 10 percent of break force on the calibration software must represent kg also, what I'm thinking is,.let's say you set your break to 70 percent force should that be reducing the load cell to only need 70 kg of pressure to make the raw value go up to 100 percent on the software calibration meter ?

And if I set the brake force to say 20 percent would that then mean the load cell will now only need 20 kg of pressure for the raw value to go up to 100 percent on the software calibration meter, as in the green indicator ?.

I hope you can see where I'm coming from, but I'm thinking surely this is how they must operate

I've never measured them, but I'm not 100% sure it's a linear gradient, but as a starting point it's a good enough assumption to make.

Take a look at the manual for the pedals as well...

https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/T_LCM/T-LCM_Pedals_User_Manual.pdf

..pages 8 and 9 cover the different spring and washer combinations.

But thanks again would it be possible if you have the time,. you could could upload a few picture of your raw values,.under what you would consider a normal 100 percent brake pressure applied.in the race.

This would really help me out to see how far I need to go to get the pedals.working.

Picture 1 represents how much my brake raw value is going up under my normal 100 percent.brake but it's not really normal for me because it takes to much pressure, and I really get that value more like 25 percent and then picture 2 is from a test done by a very strong man who had to use all his strength to get it that high

This is mine, I run 92 as the Brake Force, but keep in mind that I'm a big bloke, my pedals are on a very solid rig, and I have decades of practice driving real-world cars with high brake-pedal force required (including race cars). I also run two Red springs, and the five metal washers to remove pre-load, which is the shortest and stiffest set-up that comes with the pedals as standard.

One thing I forgot to mention earlier is that depending on what spring set-up you have on the brake pedal, physical travel will only go to around 40 to 60 on the Raw value, after that the pedal will not move anymore, but the load cell will continue to register the pressure you are applying.

I would recommend, for yourself, that you start with the lightest set of springs in the brake, then start with a very low Brake Force (say 20), and don't focus on the Raw value, only the Final Value. Then see how comfortable you are getting to 100 on the Final Value. If it's still too hard, drop the final value (and only by 2 or 3 points at a time), if it's now too easy then increase the final value (and only by 2 or 3 points at a time). Keep doing this until you get to the point that you can comfortably get to 100 on the Final Value, that will give you a starting point, which you may need to tweak a little to ensure you can also modulate the Final Value comfortably (which you will need when racing).

Over time you will build up muscle memory and will find it a lot easier to balance, and as time goes on you may want/need to recalibrate to ensure you remain in the zone.

It's important to understand that the right values are the ones that work for you, no-one can tell you what to set it at, only how to find out what works for you.

 

[newmedia_dev]

I was watching erriesss on YouTube yesterday and he mentioned he had t-lcm pedals but there in storage. Hmm I wonder why in stead he's using the standard none load pedals that come with the t598 wheel.

Rory wants to use the what you get out of the box as he is now sponsored by TM and it keeps it accessible and lower priced and he's still damn fast.

 

[flying-chick]

I've never measured them, but I'm not 100% sure it's a linear gradient, but as a starting point it's a good enough assumption to make.

Take a look at the manual for the pedals as well...

https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/T_LCM/T-LCM_Pedals_User_Manual.pdf

..pages 8 and 9 cover the different spring and washer combinations.


This is mine, I run 92 as the Brake Force, but keep in mind that I'm a big bloke, my pedals are on a very solid rig, and I have decades of practice driving real-world cars with high brake-pedal force required (including race cars). I also run two Red springs, and the five metal washers to remove pre-load, which is the shortest and stiffest set-up that comes with the pedals as standard.

View attachment 1420042

One thing I forgot to mention earlier is that depending on what spring set-up you have on the brake pedal, physical travel will only go to around 40 to 60 on the Raw value, after that the pedal will not move anymore, but the load cell will continue to register the pressure you are applying.

I would recommend, for yourself, that you start with the lightest set of springs in the brake, then start with a very low Brake Force (say 20), and don't focus on the Raw value, only the Final Value. Then see how comfortable you are getting to 100 on the Final Value. If it's still too hard, drop the final value (and only by 2 or 3 points at a time), if it's now too easy then increase the final value (and only by 2 or 3 points at a time). Keep doing this until you get to the point that you can comfortably get to 100 on the Final Value, that will give you a starting point, which you may need to tweak a little to ensure you can also modulate the Final Value comfortably (which you will need when racing).

Over time you will build up muscle memory and will find it a lot easier to balance, and as time goes on you may want/need to recalibrate to ensure you remain in the zone.

It's important to understand that the right values are the ones that work for you, no-one can tell you what to set it at, only how to find out what works for you.

Thanks I really appreciate this, I'm understanding your points.

Also my raw value is only going to 20 percent max 25 percent.

This is also with setting my brake force to 20 percent and trying softer springs and loading 5 washers and trying stiffer springs. In the picture it's less than that, as this picture is me applying force I can't do normally.

I'm thinking tho even tho your a strong bloke and use to your set up that you will have your usually amount of strength, if you know what I mean, just like I have my usual amount of strength, but I'm thinking that these pedals are designed to cater for all different strengths, and at least my brake force should be going to 40 to 60 bare minimum,

But I'm also thinking that perhaps these pedals really should allow you to achieve 100 percent brake force value quite easily under pressure, after you've set it up to your liking. as I'm also believing that this is where you better trail brake would come into play, as you keep your pedal pressed all the way with pressure the load cell should up quite high but then you only need to release the pressure a little bit and not so much the pedal to get your trail break going, am I right in my thinking .

I'm having a techi friend strip the pedal set apart soon just to check the wiring, and if I'm still stuck I may be trying to get hold of load cell that operates under a light load. As I'm told you can get loads cells for these pedals that are not 100 kg as standard.

But so far I have yet to find one, but I really do feel strongly that these pedals should allow anyone to achieve 100 percent raw value to make them better, as on average I may get 20 I may get 15 at most ill get 25. So perhaps if these where designed to work the way I would like them they would be better I think, maybe they are or maybe there not.

 

[Nebuc72]

You can also limit the maximum pedal input within GT7 by calibrating it to your own strength.
It's not the 'recommended' way to do it of course, but if you calibrate your pedal in-game by pushing it as hard as you can, it will treat your limit as the equivalent of real 100% brake pressure.

 

[newmedia_dev]

You can also limit the maximum pedal input within GT7 by calibrating it to your own strength.
It's not the 'recommended' way to do it of course, but if you calibrate your pedal in-game by pushing it as hard as you can, it will treat your limit as the equivalent of real 100% brake pressure.

GT calibration is fairly broken though or at least patchy as hell with how it registers the pressure/input.

I think it largely treats movement relative to force and that's a carry over from triggers.

That said it's all relative to the pedal pressure which as has been said the pressure can go beyond the movement (which is the secret to loadcells)

Edit:

For standard non set up loadcells a correct setup obviously gives maximum force at the end of the travel like a real car/race car would.

 

[flying-chick]

Rory wants to use the what you get out of the box as he is now sponsored by TM and it keeps it accessible and lower priced and he's still damn fast.

yeah I often chat with him, he's a likable lad to, he makes me laugh to 😂

I enjoy watching his races, even better when he's at his best.

He's try really hard to bless him, he does suffer with his nerves sometimes, tho,.and I'm sure if he took my advice and did a custom race first on the same tack and not online it would settle his nerves more before going straight into a live race.

 

[newmedia_dev]

yeah I often chat with him, he's a likable lad to, he makes me laugh to 😂

I enjoy watching his races, even better when he's at his best.

He's try really hard to bless him, he does suffer with his nerves sometimes, tho,.and I'm sure if he took my advice and did a custom race first on the same tack and not online it would settle his nerves more before going straight into a live race.

He is fine, don't worry about him he has his stuff together.

I'd worry more about you than him

I am literally friends with him and he's never mentioned you? Maybe in chat? What's your YouTube name I'll watch out for you in chat.

Try using normal non loadcell pedals and see how your times go, it takes a lot of practice to dial in to going fast but more than possible. The equipment isn't the limiting factor when there are thousands of top level racers using just controllers.