GTP GT6 Photomode FAQ & Tutorial Depot

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Mainly the contrast and color depth. I'm assuming its because on my TV the photos are being projected by an HDMI cable to an LCD HD TV. While my laptop screen I believe it's a standard LCD screen.

Although this may look harmless, it really puts me off and I loose the mood of taking more photos.


I use the Sony Bravia TV I play the game with as my laptop screen. Just use the HDMI cable you use for your PS3. You might find your shots look more consistent between the two.

Ahh yes thank you! I turned it up to around 980+ and its working much better.


Try the different panning modes. I believe 2 and 3 are best for what you're after, that way you can still use a low shutter speed.

Hope my advise helps. :)
 
What is the best online photo publishing service for including the links to GTPlanet threads? (also, why is it the best?)
 
Hello all. I'm feeling a bit odd, and it's likely just me... that said: Does anyone else feel frustrated when you see one or two great pictures (and I mean the seriously 'just knocked my socks off' pics) in an album post? So much so, you pass on dropping a "Like" because you can't be specific about your appreciation? I may very well get over it. But, is there any technical reason people prefer to post an album vice singles in an exhibition?
 
Can anyone help me out here?...

Having recently posted some pics here, (using a flikr account which I opened after finding half of my old pics gone from Imageshack!!) I now can't seem to find the "more share options" button in flikr to retrieve the code for BB. :confused:

anyone know?

Thx

Tony.
 
What is the best online photo publishing service for including the links to GTPlanet threads? (also, why is it the best?)

The answer to your questions are subjective.

I use mainly photobucket as it is the easiest to share and link pictures....however if you share a lot they want to charge you for 'bandwidth'... yeah right!:irked:

I also use flickr. Different interfase and not as easy to share via BB code.
 
Recently I noticed a new flaw through my "GT6 camera lens":
disgusting parallel lines like we had using those ancient tube tv sets.
Any ideas?

parallel_lines.png
 
Recently I noticed a new flaw through my "GT6 camera lens":
disgusting parallel lines like we had using those ancient tube tv sets.
Any ideas?

View attachment 149507

I believe what you are seeing is the pixelation of dust which was introduced in 1.06. It affects dust, smoke and water spray, and is evident when driving, in replays and through the camera viewfinder.

It doesn't affect photos.
 
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I believe what you are seeing is the pixelation of dust which was introduced in 1.06. It affects dust, smoke and water spray, and is evident when driving, in replays and through the camera viewfinder.

I doesn't affect photos.
Thank you for that hint. However, what you see above is a photograph by GT6 photomode – not a screenshot.
 
Thank you for that hint. However, what you see above is a photograph by GT6 photomode – not a screenshot.

Oh. I have not seen this issue. I assumed it was the viewfinder view.
 
The answer to your questions are subjective.

I use mainly photobucket as it is the easiest to share and link pictures....however if you share a lot they want to charge you for 'bandwidth'... yeah right!:irked:

I also use flickr. Different interfase and not as easy to share via BB code.

A subjective answer is just the kind I am looking for. Opinions, please! Thanks for sharing yours, Wolfsatz. I've been playing around in Image Shack, but that was purely due to its mention in one of the GTPlanet Weekly Rewinds.
 
I believe what you are seeing is the pixelation of dust which was introduced in 1.06. It affects dust, smoke and water spray, and is evident when driving, in replays and through the camera viewfinder. It doesn't affect photos.

it does affect photos unfortunately, the snow by the door has the same lines

 

Sunrise

So, i made another tutorial video, this one is longer and more in depth based on my speed edits. It's well worth a watch if you can bring yourself to sit and cope with me and my voice!

I'd like to think it's full of useful hints and tips but it's probably not!

I really hope you take the time to watch it because I took the time to make it!



Let me know what you think and if it's any help at all!

Anyway...Thanks for looking

👍
 
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On A Perfect Day - Tutorial

Here is another tutorial video yet again rammed full of the worlds greatest hints and tips.......not really but if you watch it and maybe even try it yourself you WILL pick up some new techniques.

If you do follow along then good for you, the only way to learn is to take the time to digest the new information, If you DON'T watch it or follow along then...you've only got yourself to blame!

It's entirely up to you though :)


I really hope you take the time to watch it because I took the time to make it!



Let me know what you think and if it's any help at all!

Anyway...Thanks for looking

👍
 

On A Perfect Day - Tutorial

Here is another tutorial video yet again rammed full of the worlds greatest hints and tips.......not really but if you watch it and maybe even try it yourself you WILL pick up some new techniques.

If you do follow along then good for you, the only way to learn is to take the time to digest the new information, If you DON'T watch it or follow along then...you've only got yourself to blame!

It's entirely up to you though :)

I really hope you take the time to watch it because I took the time to make it!



Let me know what you think and if it's any help at all!

Anyway...Thanks for looking

👍


Really good stuff. Thanks for a new trick or two :D
 
I was contributing in another thread about how I do the weathering on cars, how I get them dirty and realized it's kind of a tutorial. So here it is, try it out, experiment a little or a lot!


Sauber Mercedes C9 1989 24 Hours of Le Mans by Metalsun1, on Flickr

My first edits were done with GIMP but shortly after I switched to Photoshop CS6. That means that my instructions might not be similar to your photo editing software.

Using textures helps a lot in that you don't have to paint the dust/dirt. You can use any image in the internet and turn it into a texture. Of course, you have to apply an appropriate image to your subject. A scene of a kid’s birthday party on the side of a car will not do. So you have to do an image search of say, “dirty window texture”, “dusty window”, “grime textures” “rusty metal textures” and so on. There’s lot out there. I taught myself Autodesk’s 3DS Max Design a few years ago and used these textures on 3d models. For Photoshop, I use it differently in that I want a high contrast image. (Contrast is the quantity of different color gradients from the lightest to darkest colors. For example, a black image in a white paper has just two colors; low contrast. A gray scale image has more; higher contrast.)

1. I would have the texture/image in its own layer.
2. Lower the saturation to turn it into a black and white image.
3. SCALE it appropriately, don’t want rain drops the size of watermelons.
4. DISTORT/WARP it to “fit over the physical” car.
5. Play with the different types of BLENDING modes available. This is where the magic happens. Depending on which mode you use, the lighter (white) colors become transparent. In 3d modeling programs, this contrast is used to define depth in textures, Texture Mapping. The darker parts of the image define deeper physical surface limits.
6. Use the OPACITY setting to adjust overall transparency.
You can also use the standard brushes in Photoshop for the grime/oil specks or even modify them. You could take a picture of a splatter of paint in your house, desaturate, lower contrast and make a custom brush. I went into the internet and did a search for “splatter brushes” and got some.

These instructions by themselves are usually not enough, I sometimes need to combine multiple textures over each other and paint dark layers to form shadows or color the dust. So you have to take the time, be patient and learn to work with other disciplines. I didn't know anything about Photoshop a year ago, other than making "tileable" textures for 3d models and still consider myself a beginner. Other key things you need to watch for is:

1. Don't over do it. Many times you like what you see, keep adding more and didn't stop, resulting in an image that maybe is too dark.
2. Go do searches in the internet and learn how the cars actually look when they are dirty. Where does the dust/dirt/grime collect? How dark should it be? What color is the dirt/dust?
3. Specks of oil will be seen on a real car up-close but not from far away, so watch out for your “scaling”.​

For more insight on how I did this and other edits, visit my GT Planet GT6 gallery.
 
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@MoMo PeeZero, how did you bring out the reflections on the hood of the car?


BEFORE


Steven2992,

I don't know how others do it. Probably an easier method somewhere. I taught myself. Sorry.

If you don't have GIMP, get it, it's free.

First off, EVERY vehicle needs to be cleaned. (See GT5 Clean Up Tutorial), Especially premiums, and the Vision vehicles also. Jaggies do not exist in real life. Realism= No Jaggies. Got it? Good.👍

GIMP 2.8

Duplicate layer

On the duplicate layer, click 'Overlay'.

In the Overlay layer, set opacity 50%

Right click your image. In the 'Colors' tab, click 'desaturate'.

Right click your image. In the 'Colors' tab, click invert.

Right click your image, and select 'Filters'

In 'Filters', select 'Blur', then 'Gaussian Blur'. Set to 40%

Right click your original layer, (The one at the bottom of the two layers) Select 'Duplicate Layer.

Look to the bottom of your 'Layers' tab, you will see an 'Up' arrow. Click the 'Up' arrow.

The newest layer is now at the top (First of the three layers) of the layer column in the 'Layers' tab.

On this layer, select 'Soft Light' Set opacity to 50%

Flatten the image.

Done.

With the finished photo...

Saturation -17%

Unsharp mask Radius -1.0%/ Amount -50%/ Threshold -0% (This is the reflection part)

This will produce a basic realistic shot. Play with other controls to your liking.

Remember, don't sharpen so much if you don't clean the vehicle. It will look crazy. And I see everything!

I give you this one, because GIMP is free, and a powerful editor for the price. And, I love to help.

I use PS also for non-destructive editing, and more flexibility.

After


Most of all...practice, practice...PRACTICE.👍

This is just a basic way to get started. How you finish is up to you.
 
Recently I had a request from @Chameleon9000 who aksed how or what I did to a particular shot of mine to get it to look they way it did. So I ended up doing a short walkthorugh tut about it.

Anyway I thought it might be good to share it with everyone, and hopefully it can be of use to others. (It's not the best tut, but hopefully it all makes sense.) You can thank Chameleon9000 for reccomending I share it also. ;)

Oh, and it's mainly for Photoshp users. You can pretty do al this in Gimp too but the tools and shortcuts will likely differ.

__________________________


Ok so here goes. Hopefully this will give you some useful insight into some of my processes. Most of what I've done on this image is most of the regular techniques I use on most of my images.

First off here is the unedited pic...

15149236711_3c4617d091_c.jpg


Generally I try to make sure the image is balanced well and careful to not have any major overexposure.


From there I do some general tweaking of contrast and colour to get an initial look of tone that I think works for the image...

14965650898_9d66e65ff9_c.jpg


As you can see there's quite a dramatic difference. In this instance I changed levels of colour and upped some of the blue, all done in the colour balance tool. I also changed the contrast level as I wanted the dark areas a bit darker. For greater control of light and shade the Curves tool works well and offers more control than the standard Brightness & Contrast tool.

From there I felt like it needed a warmer morning feel so I used the Colour Balance tool again and added some more yelllow and slight red to enhance that warm feel I was after...

14965647577_3386607f4d_c.jpg


Now it has that warmer feel I was after, but now the white tones of the car look too yellow and a bit dull. So using the Lasso tool I made a quick soft selection of the car, using a feather setting of around 80-100...

14965652438_8ddd28ae65_c.jpg


With that selection I then wanted to lighten the front of the car a little, so the shadow tones and dirty-ish green tones need to be lifted. And to also whiten up the whites of the marquees and tree wraps. To lighten these areas I used the Shadows/Highlights tool found in the adjustments menu. This tool is great for lightening shadow parts of an image and sometimes can give you a bit of HDR image look without actually using more than one image. I had it set to a lowish value somewhere around 3-5 just to lift the darks a bit.

As you can see in the image above now the middle section of the image is lighter and not so yellow-ish which makes the whites seem more white and bright. Also they have a slight blue-ish tinge to give it the brighter white feel.

Now that I'm pretty happy with the overall colour and tone of the image I look for other elements to enhance the feel of the image. Next I wanted the sense of speed to be a bit more pronounced and smooth...

14965502289_245c1e3774_c.jpg


I made a quick selection of the trees using the Lasso tool again and put them on a new layer. I then used the Zoom blur found in the Radial Blur filter. And with a bit of trial and error found the right placement for the center of the blur to match the angle of the shot. This makes the blur follow the right line to match the shot. I only added a bit of blur not too much as high setting would likely make it look unrealistic.

Once this was done the image was getting closer to where I wanted. Now I felt it needed sharpening overall. And my method of sharpening is one I know a few people on the planet do use themselves to sharpen images.

I start by selecting the entire image (Ctrl + A) on a pc. Then I do a copy merge of the whole image (Ctrl + Shift + C) and paste onto a new layer. I then use the High Pass filter. (Filter>Other>High Pass) And set it to a value of between 2-3.

Then I change that layers blend mode in the layer panel and set it to Overlay or sometimes Soft Light. This shows through the highlights parts of the High Pass layer and creates a sharper look. As shown below...

15151816722_3327c66205_c.jpg


From this point I often have quite a bit of colour banding going on and as seen below (The red circles) this was quite evident on the car. To help eliminate this I use the Surface Blur tool.

15151817462_4dc9d38e24_c.jpg


First thing I'll do is make a selection of the panels or areas I need to smooth out (As seen in yellow outline above) And I'll copy and paste these onto new layers incase I need to go back or make changes separately from the entire image.

Then using the Surface Blur filter I'll adjust the slider levels until I get a smoother look but not too much that it looks unatural or the edges of the panel shapes begin to not blend with the rest of the car. Mostly the Threshold value will be low-ish like 5-10 and the Radius will be adjusted more so. Again this can vary depending on the image so it really requires tweaking on a case to case basis.

As you can see on the right side image the car panels look much smoother now.

Almost there now, last few steps are really just minor tweaks as I often make subtle changes or final slight modifications to finish the piece. In this case I felt like the light on the left and light highlights on the trees could use a touch more warm glow and light.

So I added a soft warm coloured light with a brush onto a new layer over the left area where the light scource comes from. And set the layer blend mode to Screen then adjusted the opacity of the layer until I got the amount of subtle glow light I was after. I also made a quick soft selection of the tree highlights and upped the lightness of the yellow/green tones to lift the leaves contrast a little.

15151818112_e66342dd76_c.jpg


Final step was to enhance the overall saturation a little with the Vibrance tool. (Image>Adjustments>Vibrance) Upped the Vibrance setting a touch like +5-10 and then finally added a black border on this one and voila, edit done!

14529063051_1d9f15eff0_c.jpg


I hope this short guide through this image gives you some tips, methods and techniques to consider and use in your works. And hopefully it all made sense. ;)
 
GPR
Recently I had a request from @Chameleon9000 who aksed how or what I did to a particular shot of mine to get it to look they way it did. So I ended up doing a short walkthorugh tut about it.

Anyway I thought it might be good to share it with everyone, and hopefully it can be of use to others. (It's not the best tut, but hopefully it all makes sense.) You can thank Chameleon9000 for reccomending I share it also. ;)

Oh, and it's mainly for Photoshp users. You can pretty do al this in Gimp too but the tools and shortcuts will likely differ.

__________________________


Ok so here goes. Hopefully this will give you some useful insight into some of my processes. Most of what I've done on this image is most of the regular techniques I use on most of my images.

First off here is the unedited pic...

15149236711_3c4617d091_c.jpg


Generally I try to make sure the image is balanced well and careful to not have any major overexposure.


From there I do some general tweaking of contrast and colour to get an initial look of tone that I think works for the image...

14965650898_9d66e65ff9_c.jpg


As you can see there's quite a dramatic difference. In this instance I changed levels of colour and upped some of the blue, all done in the colour balance tool. I also changed the contrast level as I wanted the dark areas a bit darker. For greater control of light and shade the Curves tool works well and offers more control than the standard Brightness & Contrast tool.

From there I felt like it needed a warmer morning feel so I used the Colour Balance tool again and added some more yelllow and slight red to enhance that warm feel I was after...

14965647577_3386607f4d_c.jpg


Now it has that warmer feel I was after, but now the white tones of the car look too yellow and a bit dull. So using the Lasso tool I made a quick soft selection of the car, using a feather setting of around 80-100...

14965652438_8ddd28ae65_c.jpg


With that selection I then wanted to lighten the front of the car a little, so the shadow tones and dirty-ish green tones need to be lifted. And to also whiten up the whites of the marquees and tree wraps. To lighten these areas I used the Shadows/Highlights tool found in the adjustments menu. This tool is great for lightening shadow parts of an image and sometimes can give you a bit of HDR image look without actually using more than one image. I had it set to a lowish value somewhere around 3-5 just to lift the darks a bit.

As you can see in the image above now the middle section of the image is lighter and not so yellow-ish which makes the whites seem more white and bright. Also they have a slight blue-ish tinge to give it the brighter white feel.

Now that I'm pretty happy with the overall colour and tone of the image I look for other elements to enhance the feel of the image. Next I wanted the sense of speed to be a bit more pronounced and smooth...

14965502289_245c1e3774_c.jpg


I made a quick selection of the trees using the Lasso tool again and put them on a new layer. I then used the Zoom blur found in the Radial Blur filter. And with a bit of trial and error found the right placement for the center of the blur to match the angle of the shot. This makes the blur follow the right line to match the shot. I only added a bit of blur not too much as high setting would likely make it look unrealistic.

Once this was done the image was getting closer to where I wanted. Now I felt it needed sharpening overall. And my method of sharpening is one I know a few people on the planet do use themselves to sharpen images.

I start by selecting the entire image (Ctrl + A) on a pc. Then I do a copy merge of the whole image (Ctrl + Shift + C) and paste onto a new layer. I then use the High Pass filter. (Filter>Other>High Pass) And set it to a value of between 2-3.

Then I change that layers blend mode in the layer panel and set it to Overlay or sometimes Soft Light. This shows through the highlights parts of the High Pass layer and creates a sharper look. As shown below...

15151816722_3327c66205_c.jpg


From this point I often have quite a bit of colour banding going on and as seen below (The red circles) this was quite evident on the car. To help eliminate this I use the Surface Blur tool.

15151817462_4dc9d38e24_c.jpg


First thing I'll do is make a selection of the panels or areas I need to smooth out (As seen in yellow outline above) And I'll copy and paste these onto new layers incase I need to go back or make changes separately from the entire image.

Then using the Surface Blur filter I'll adjust the slider levels until I get a smoother look but not too much that it looks unatural or the edges of the panel shapes begin to not blend with the rest of the car. Mostly the Threshold value will be low-ish like 5-10 and the Radius will be adjusted more so. Again this can vary depending on the image so it really requires tweaking on a case to case basis.

As you can see on the right side image the car panels look much smoother now.

Almost there now, last few steps are really just minor tweaks as I often make subtle changes or final slight modifications to finish the piece. In this case I felt like the light on the left and light highlights on the trees could use a touch more warm glow and light.

So I added a soft warm coloured light with a brush onto a new layer over the left area where the light scource comes from. And set the layer blend mode to Screen then adjusted the opacity of the layer until I got the amount of subtle glow light I was after. I also made a quick soft selection of the tree highlights and upped the lightness of the yellow/green tones to lift the leaves contrast a little.

15151818112_e66342dd76_c.jpg


Final step was to enhance the overall saturation a little with the Vibrance tool. (Image>Adjustments>Vibrance) Upped the Vibrance setting a touch like +5-10 and then finally added a black border on this one and voila, edit done!

14529063051_1d9f15eff0_c.jpg


I hope this short guide through this image gives you some tips, methods and techniques to consider and use in your works. And hopefully it all made sense. ;)
Thank you GPR! This tutorial definitely helped me. Very in-depth and its an awesome template picture anyway! :bowdown::bowdown:
 
I got a question guys - with my steering wheel on, can I use the dual shock to adjust camera settings? Because if not then it really sucks, as you have to save a replay for example, and then turn off the steering wheel and turn on the gamepad just to take some photos of a lap you did with a steering wheel..

I hope you can understand my intention :P
 
Yea, i noticed it today :P i got to play around with the photo mode seriously for the first time, effects are I believe stunning :D
 
Q: Can I get a list of Travel locations?
A: New to GT6:
Certainly! Below is the list currently known for GT6 - for now, despite previous comments from PD, GT5 locations have not returned:
  • New to GT6: Gemasolar
  • New to GT6: Siracusa - Duomo Square
  • New to GT6: Siracusa - Night
  • New to GT6: Ronda - Nuevo bridge
  • New to GT6: Valencia- The City of Arts and Sciences

Note that at this point in time, GT5's locations have not been confirmed as returning.

11.12.13 - Reconfirmed GT5 locations thanks to Unlock Greatness.
So confirmed or not? I'm confused :indiff:
 
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