GTP_WRS Pit Box : Want to chat? - Need help? Post here.

  • Thread starter Sjaak
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ConRollins
Exactly. I'll log into PSN with the GTP ID go to GT6 and get the bonus. Log out of the GTP ID, log into the ConRollins ID then start the game again and it does not advance!

The strange thing about the whole thing is that all the 15th aniversary stuff and othe bonus items from pre ordering are all tied to my main ID of ConRollins. I get the Helmet avatar on that ID, so I know that PSN and GT6 recognize it as a valid ID, but the log in bonus multiplier remains stuck at 110%.

I'm stumped.
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Wondering if there's something else happening. Are you running some events on your GTP account and saving the game as a result, and only doing the login thing on the main account?

How much progress on the main account? Might make sense to start your save over again, to see if that fixes this "bug". Or it might be that the login bonus is tied to some level of game progress, even if it does not say that.

I'm just spouting ideas. I'm only running one account on GT6, so could not say for certain.
 
EDK
Wondering if there's something else happening. Are you running some events on your GTP account and saving the game as a result, and only doing the login thing on the main account?

How much progress on the main account? Might make sense to start your save over again, to see if that fixes this "bug". Or it might be that the login bonus is tied to some level of game progress, even if it does not say that.

I'm just spouting ideas. I'm only running one account on GT6, so could not say for certain.
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Could be. I run all events on the GTP ID and trying to catch up on the ConRollins, but get frustrated that I can't make the same money as there is no multiplier for that ID. I'll try to get it further advanced and see if that helps.
 
@ConRollins Ron, this is just a shot in the murkiness but....when you say you log into GT6 are you clicking through the bonus notification and getting back to the main home page? If you are just seeing the bonus notification and quitting straight away then that's probably why it's not registering it.

I have 2 accounts and they are fine
 
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I read on one of the GT6 threads, that if you log in to the account and do no activity the autosave does not kick in. They recommeded doing a save from the options menu. I had the same issue on a secondary account, I ran some events for a few days and got to 170 login bonus, then I started seeing it go backwards day after day. The above theory makes sense to me, as for a few days, I only logged in and did nothing and exited. Today I was at the 110 bonus, logged in did nothing, but did a full save. I will look tomorrow to see if that corrected the problem.

The other theory was you had to so some type of activity to advance the bonus.
 
Ah that may in fact be it. I will try advancing into the game further and actually do the save manually and see if that works. I must admit, every time I would see the 110% I would just say **** it, and exit!:mad:
 
ConRollins
Ah that may in fact be it. I will try advancing into the game further and actually do the save manually and see if that works. I must admit, every time I would see the 110% I would just say **** it, and exit!:mad:
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You can log-in, get the bonus, press start and save on that menu.
 
Are we going to be able to see the splits in the replays when we do the weekly TT's? Right now they only appear when there are more cars on the track.
 
So my 2 year old DFGT just broke :(.

Actually it's my right paddle shifter. It started double shifting occasionally a few days ago and lost all springiness (well what little DFGTs have to begin with). Then today it started getting worse. And as you know a double shift in a WRS lap means the lap is in the bin :irked:.

So after it happened for the gazillionth time, I kinda lost my cool and before I knew it had a screwdriver in my hands and was opening that bastard up. (Also I should mention I'm not good at fixing things). After messing with the gear shift (picture chimpanzee with a Rubik's cube), I figured out that the switch that is responsible for shifting up has broken from the inside and lost all springiness.

Luckily the L2 and R2 buttons employ the exact same switch as the gear shift mechanism (which gives you a great idea on how bad the paddle shifters actually are on the DFGT). So now all I have to do, in theory, is to unsolder the paddle shift and the R2 switches, switch them, and solder them back on.

This leaves me with just three problems:
  1. Find someone with a soldering iron
  2. Learn how to use it
  3. Doing it properly so it ends up working.
If all goes well, expect me to be back in action sometime next week. If not, then I will have to take a hiatus from the WRS scene (control your sadness people), as buying a new wheel is not an option (student debt, expensive toy, yadayada). Nor is going back to the DS3 (you wheel users know what I'm on about).

Why am I posting this? Well mostly to share my sorrows, and partly if this ever happens to someone they can be referred to me and this post.

:(
 
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mohitraina91
So my 2 year old DFGT just broke :(.

Actually it's my right paddle shifter. It started double shifting occasionally a few days ago and lost all springiness (well what little DFGTs have to begin with). Then today it started getting worse. And as you know a double shift in a WRS lap means the lap is in the bin :irked:.

So after it happened for the gazillionth time, I kinda lost my cool and before I knew it had a screwdriver in my hands and was opening that bastard up. (Also I should mention I'm not good at fixing things). After messing with the gear shift (picture chimpanzee with a Rubik's cube), I figured out that the switch that is responsible for shifting up has broken from the inside and lost all springiness.

Luckily the L2 and R2 buttons employ the exact same switch as the gear shift mechanism (which gives you a great idea on how bad the paddle shifters actually are on the DFGT). So now all I have to do, in theory, is to unsolder the paddle shift and the R2 switches, switch them, and solder them back on.

This leaves me with just three problems:
  1. Find someone with a soldering iron
  2. Learn how to use it
  3. Doing it properly so it ends up working.
If all goes well, expect me to be back in action sometime next week. If not, then I will have to take a hiatus from the WRS scene, as buying a new wheel is not an option (student debt, expensive toy, yadayada). Nor is going back to the DS3 (you wheel users know what I'm on about).

Why am I posting this? Well mostly to share my sorrows, and partly if this ever happens to someone they can be referred to me and this post.

:(
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Old news. :rolleyes: ;)

Check out this thread.

Wheel modifications, wiring diagrams and Repair Instructions ...
 
mohitraina91
Ooh my that's from 2008!! Ancient scriptures :P.

Good to see my idea was the right one, and that there is still light at the end of the tunnel :lol:. I'm still not good at this kind of stuff so let's keep our fingers crossed.
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Yeah, that was 3 wheels ago for me, my DFP.
logitech_driving_force-wheel.jpg


I kind of suck at the soldering part of things, I'm good at taking the wheel apart and putting back together. As long as you can manage that, it's not bad.

The DFP and DFGT are close twins the shift paddles are basically the same, I have driven on both. The DFGT just has a (much) smoother force feedback mechanism.
 
EDK
Yeah, that was 3 wheels ago for me, my DFP.

I kind of suck at the soldering part of things, I'm good at taking the wheel apart and putting back together. As long as you can manage that, it's not bad.

The DFP and DFGT are close twins the shift paddles are basically the same, I have driven on both. The DFGT just has a (much) smoother force feedback mechanism.
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Yeah that's what I understood from my research but luckily the DFGT has the replacement switches on the circuit board so I don't need to get those. Plus a friend has a soldering iron so I'm making progress! In the words of your ex-governor: "I'll be bach".

I'm happy with the life of the wheel though. Considering the countless hours I've put in the WRS and WRS-OE, I think it's been great.

Unlike @WRP001, who I'm pretty sure is on first name basis with the customer support over at Thrustmaster :lol:. (Sorry I shouldn't be laughing, I feel ya pain brah..).
 
mohitraina91
Yeah that's what I understood from my research but luckily the DFGT has the replacement switches on the circuit board so I don't need to get those. Plus a friend has a soldering iron so I'm making progress! In the words of your ex-governor: "I'll be bach".

I'm happy with the life of the wheel though. Considering the countless hours I've put in the WRS and WRS-OE, I think it's been great.

Unlike @WRP001, who I'm pretty sure is on first name basis with the customer support over at Thrustmaster :lol:. (Sorry I shouldn't be laughing, I feel ya pain brah..).
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I'm lucky that I have 2 wheels attachments for my T500. Had to change back to the GT wheel this week, while working through an issue with the F1 add on.

Either way, I think I'm moving toward a Clubsport soon, just seen too many good things in the technology to pass it up.
 
EDK
I'm lucky that I have 2 wheels attachments for my T500. Had to change back to the GT wheel this week, while working through an issue with the F1 add on.

Either way, I think I'm moving toward a Clubsport soon, just seen too many good things in the technology to pass it up.
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Aah all sounds so tempting!

Luckily Christmas isn't that far away :D :sly:.
 
AspecBob
Hmmm.... yeah.... if you count backwards...

Anyhow, hope you get your wheel fixed soon, Mohit, so you're back in the saddle in time to make it in the first batch 👍
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Ah but I already have both replays ready to go :sly:.

But thanks 👍. And your sig gave me a chuckle lol.
 
That's a bummer Mohit, I hope you can get it sorted out. I'd offer to help but the 12ish hour drive might be a bit much.
 
Just don't over-do it or heat the electronics up too much. It's been a while since I've soldered anything, but a little goes a long way.
 
Cats_PJs
That's a bummer Mohit, I hope you can get it sorted out. I'd offer to help but the 12ish hour drive might be a bit much.
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millross
I'd offer to help too....but....actually no I wouldn't, I can't solder anything. It's a long way if you can't solder.
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:cheers:

GTPorsche
Just don't over-do it or heat the electronics up too much. It's been a while since I've soldered anything, but a little goes a long way.
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I'll keep that in mind :).
 
EDK
I'm lucky that I have 2 wheels attachments for my T500. Had to change back to the GT wheel this week, while working through an issue with the F1 add on.

Either way, I think I'm moving toward a Clubsport soon, just seen too many good things in the technology to pass it up.
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When you wanna get rid of that t500, let me know.
 
@EDK Kevin, i remember a conversation we had a couple of months back about a wheel:

EDK
A couple of comments/questions.

First - In my experience, people who are as fast as you on pad are easily D1 on wheel. If you have a chance to upgrade, do it. For 2 reasons.

1. Because promotion.

2. More importantly. The "game" is amazingly more complete and incredible behind a wheel. Trust me.
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I used a G27 for a brief time before selling it. I'm looking at getting back into using a wheel. When I purchase one, it'll be a higher quality than the g27 such as the Thrustmaster T500 or the Fanatec wheel. Any reason why you would choose one over the other? You say the "technology is to good to pass up" on the clubsports. Why is that? Are you meaning the pedals or the wheel with pedals? I know. @Vagabond uses the Clubsport with F1 attachment and seems to like it fairly well, but I wouldn't be acquiring the f1 style rim.
 
ItsAllAboutWins
@EDK Kevin, i remember a conversation we had a couple of months back about a wheel:



I used a G27 for a brief time before selling it. I'm looking at getting back into using a wheel. When I purchase one, it'll be a higher quality than the g27 such as the Thrustmaster T500 or the Fanatec wheel. Any reason why you would choose one over the other? You say the "technology is to good to pass up" on the clubsports. Why is that? Are you meaning the pedals or the wheel with pedals? I know. @Vagabond uses the Clubsport with F1 attachment and seems to like it fairly well, but I wouldn't be acquiring the f1 style rim.
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The pedals are the main thing.

For me, the Thrustmaster wheel has great force feedback and steering performance. The pedals are no better than a G25/27. A little more flexibility with placement adjustments, but that's it. They are essentially the same technology, the brake pedals on the Clubsport are light years ahead.

Fanatec has a reputation for finicky reliability. Some firmware issues, wheel centering issues, and some hardware issues as well. And I understand their customer service can be tedious to deal with, but I've never heard anyone say they literally were not taken care of.

Thrustmaster has been the same for me, and for @WRP001 . We've both had issues with cooling fans and shift paddles. Thrustmaster sends you replacement parts in the mail and expects you to do the work yourself. The fan in particular is not easy work. You have to take almost all of the guts out of the wheel to get to it.

I bought their Ferrari F1 wheel add on about 1 year after I got the wheel. I mainly wanted the integrated shift paddles, but also like the intuitive options for RA functions. It has had issues with shift paddles, and also with switches and/or the board shorting out. I literally cannot use it now. It will activate XMB, Select and Start all at the same time while driving. Which results in the game being paused, my driving view changing, and being on the XMB screen, all at once. :mad:

I emailed Thrustmaster on Christmas day and have not heard back. They might be in Holiday shutdown. Last time this happened, they asked to to ship the wheel to Canada for them to repair it. And then reimbursed me for the $50 shipping. Don't understand why they could not just send me a new wheel, I think it would have been cheaper for them, better for me. Now we'll see what they come back with.

The most frustrating thing about it - They repeatedly have issues with the same exact parts - Fans and switches. It's like having a BMW M3, and having the window switches break repeatedly, with BMW asking you to install brand new versions of the same crappy switches that broke. They are going to break again, and eventually you'll be out of warranty, so it won't be their problem.

If Fanatec is the same, except with better technology, I can live with that. At least I'll have the better technology, with the same exact reliability problems.

As far as my wheel goes, I've already offered it to Tim for parts. So if he takes me up on that, I'll probably do it, since we're close enough that we could meet halfway and I would not have to worry about shipping it.
 
Thanks for the very descriptive response Kevin. I only plan on racing in gt6 with my wheel and I've got quite a bit of time to think about which one to get. Almost a grand for the setup is a lot of money to throw into something that isn't going to be reliable.
 
ItsAllAboutWins
Thanks for the very descriptive response Kevin. I only plan on racing in gt6 with my wheel and I've got quite a bit of time to think about which one to get. Almost a grand for the setup is a lot of money to throw into something that isn't going to be reliable.
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Agree.

Please don't take only my word on the reliability of the Fanatec stuff. @Vagabond tells me he has not had problems. I'm only referencing what I've read over time. The Logitec stuff has had it's own issues, but tends not to have the high failure rate of the other manufacturers, and also tends to be a little more user repair friendly.

I've experienced Thrustmaster issues firsthand, and have the same exact issues as other users. They are consistent, in that sense. ;)
 
I've only had one issue with my Fanatec wheel, and that was the original standard pedals having problems with the potentiometers, which they were known for having problems with. I got a replacement set and haven't had any issues with them I couldn't fix myself.

Would be nice to have the more expensive pedals, but I can't afford to do that, and my current standard pedals haven't failed on me yet, aside from the cable not fitting securely enough.
 
Not had any issues really with my CSR wheel, but I run low FF relative to others I suspect. My paddle shifters feel a little loose and have done for a while, but otherwise it's worked well for three years now.

Only issue with fanatec is the fact you have to get it shipped over from Germany so postage is quite high, payment means are limited (though PayPal is best and quite easy) and it's not easy to return anything!

Edit: I now have the CSR pedals as I had the same issues with the cheaper plastic pedals mentioned above! You can't buy these pedals anymore though ;)
 
I remember reading about others issues with Fanatec wheels when I was looking for a g27. Something about the fans or the motors going out. Don't really recall what it was. I may end up just purchasing a CSR with elite pedals or another g27 to just get my foot on the gas again, then worry about the higher priced things later on. That way if I have a failure, I'll have somethin to keep me in the running. Thanks Kevin!
 

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