- 11,207

- Adrian, Mich.
- cargorat323
- CargoRatt
24.931
55.247
Changed LSD to 8/60/5.
Have seen some .8's here and there at T1, but my setup causes me to have to go in a bit kamikaze, I may have to rethink that.
Far be it for me to be giving you advice
24.931
55.247
Changed LSD to 8/60/5.
Have seen some .8's here and there at T1, but my setup causes me to have to go in a bit kamikaze, I may have to rethink that.
Right, I did not say "I don't know how to get .8's at T1", but that I think I need to change my setup if I am going to hit them more consistently.Far be it for me to be giving you advice![]()
but I too have seen my fair share of .8's and .9's in sector 1 and can only tell whats been working for me. I let off the gas at the start of the curbing on the left side and baisically trail brake my way in (less kamikaze), staying wide , getting the car to rotate deep into that section (white line) so that I am full throttle as early as possible and coming out clipping that second curb/apex (left side) and running wide out onto the right hand curbing. Probably not the best way, but seems to work for me on a more consistent basis. Not a pro tip, so just take it as it is.
![]()
Does brake bias affect the ABS assist itself?I can probably adjust my BB to a forward bias and get the desired affect, but I find that brake bias does not only affect behavior under braking, but handing in general, and it's going to tighten the car up for me. Something I'd rather avoid.
I believe it does, which is why I think cars handle slightly different with ABS off than on.Does brake bias affect the ABS assist itself?
OK - I have to give you credit where credit is due. I did exactly what you said, ran a .8 on my first lap out of the gate, improved at the line by 0.07. Have not touched the combo since my post 4 hours ago.Far be it for me to be giving you advice![]()
but I too have seen my fair share of .8's and .9's in sector 1 and can only tell whats been working for me. I let off the gas at the start of the curbing on the left side and baisically trail brake my way in (less kamikaze), staying wide , getting the car to rotate deep into that section (white line) so that I am full throttle as early as possible and coming out clipping that second curb/apex (left side) and running wide out onto the right hand curbing. Probably not the best way, but seems to work for me on a more consistent basis. Not a pro tip, so just take it as it is.
![]()
None of the tunes I've tried here work for me with ABS 0. Doesn't seem to be enough suspension travel to allow the brakes to work as they should without leaning heavily on the aid.I believe it does, which is why I think cars handle slightly different with ABS off than on.
Yeah, I don't ever try driving with ABS off, as it's completely unrealistic (despite what people who drive with it off would have you believe). Another way of saying is that the amount of braking force you can apply in a real car (without ABS) on a real track without locking up vs. the amount you can apply on the game have vast expanses between them. I'm sure with a proper load cell with brake feedback built into the game it would be different, but with it set up as it is, it simply does not work.None of the tunes I've tried here work for me with ABS 0. Doesn't seem to be enough suspension travel to allow the brakes to work as they should without leaning heavily on the aid.
You have to view the main screen with the time showing and pause the replay, then hit the forward button to skip to each split - it will give you the full number then.
My experiences are different. ABS 0 worked perfectly in the AMG tt as well as the Alpine and Infiniti. I could use 100% brake pedal with no issue with BB totalling 10.Yeah, I don't ever try driving with ABS off, as it's completely unrealistic (despite what people who drive with it off would have you believe). Another way of saying is that the amount of braking force you can apply in a real car (without ABS) on a real track without locking up vs. the amount you can apply on the game have vast expanses between them. I'm sure with a proper load cell with brake feedback built into the game it would be different, but with it set up as it is, it simply does not work.
Right, I did not say "I don't know how to get .8's at T1", but that I think I need to change my setup if I am going to hit them more consistently.
The reason being, my setup is skittish under braking, and if you have the wheel turned even the slightest when applying the brakes, the car WILL spin. So my technique in the first kink does involve using the start of the curb as a marker, has all along, before it was posted in here.
But with my setup, I have do do it one of a couple ways. One is to lift and dab the brake, enter in 5th, throttle back on, then hard braking to the back once I can straighten the wheel. The other is to use 4th to get in, which requires less brake, but slows the car more. Again, throttle back on from that "apex". It's more consistent, but slower. Neither allows me to accurately place the car, so what you describe at the back will happen sometimes, and sometimes it won't. It just depends on where the car decides to go that time.
The 3rd option you present, lift only and trail brake, is not an option, unless you like your car to be in a wall.
I can probably adjust my BB to a forward bias and get the desired affect, but I find that brake bias does not only affect behavior under braking, but handing in general, and it's going to tighten the car up for me. Something I'd rather avoid.
NoooooI'm also getting beaten by my tune.
BTW I bought second car at the one WITH body rigidity improvement seems to work better for me.
But......Did you see my next post?Alright, sorry if I spoke out of turn. All I was doing was posting what works for me and if you would like to try that alternative, you could give it a shot and see what happens. I wasn't trying to say you were doing anything wrong or even saying my way is the right/fastest way. This seems to happen every time I post any kind of ideas/suggestions....my posts seem to get taken in the wrong context or misunderstood. Anyways, no hard feelings, I'll just keep to myself from now on. Good luck, I'm sure you'll figure things out, you always do. 👍![]()
OK - I have to give you credit where credit is due. I did exactly what you said, ran a .8 on my first lap out of the gate, improved at the line by 0.07. Have not touched the combo since my post 4 hours ago.
Going back for more.
I'm just relating to what I do on a real track and how ABS zero on the game compares to that. You don't have to step on the brake pedal as if it's an eggshell when on a race track. I can take a 1st gen MR2 out at Laguna Seca, try using the same brake points I would in real life, and the experience with ABS zero, what I have to do on the game to make it work, is not even close to what I would do in a real race environment.My experiences are different. ABS 0 worked perfectly in the AMG tt as well as the Alpine and Infiniti. I could use 100% brake pedal with no issue with BB totalling 10.
The Camaro at Daytona and 97t at Monza worked great as well.
Same for me. The car without is half a second slower.
Since ABS changes the handling characteristics of the car and is more than just an anti-locking system, is that really better/more realistic? Or just the lesser of two evils?EDKI'm just relating to what I do on a real track and how ABS zero on the game compares to that. You don't have to step on the brake pedal as if it's an eggshell when on a race track. I can take a 1st gen MR2 out at Laguna Seca, try using the same brake points I would in real life, and the experience with ABS zero, what I have to do on the game to make it work, is not even close to what I would do in a real race environment.
Understand that you can make it work, I just think there's a difference between that, and what's real.
All I've noticed is that no ABS stops faster, but turn in is worse, but with abs is more consistent and can allow you to turn in better. Depends on the track and driver ability really.
Since ABS changes the handling characteristics of the car and is more than just an anti-locking system, is that really better/more realistic? Or just the lesser of two evils?
I'm just trying to figure out why the WRS would allow it since its effect seems to be the braking equivalent of what SRF does for Acceleration.
Not sure how you manage to quote Manu with my text, but will answer.Since ABS changes the handling characteristics of the car and is more than just an anti-locking system, is that really better/more realistic? Or just the lesser of two evils?
I'm just trying to figure out why the WRS would allow it since its effect seems to be the braking equivalent of what SRF does for Acceleration.
Accidentally clicked Reply to Manu's post.Not sure how you manage to quote Manu with my text, but will answer.
SRF Makes everything easier, it completely changes the game physics, and makes everything about driving the car unrealistic.
There are those who insist that ABS 0, Cockpit Camera, Sports Tires on Race Cars, using the clutch, or any other number of factors make the game more realistic.
It's our job to effectively level the playing field for competition. Something like SRF allows drivers who would not normally be fast, to be fast. It introduces an unrealistic experience that most of our membership does not/would not enjoy.
The others I bring up are in some cases a matter of opinion, and do not form a consistent experience to all drivers across all equipment. Again, it's a matter of opinion. You have yours, we have ours.