[GUIDE] So you want to drive without ABS... (please read OP)

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^ Agree, higher BB value does make quite a difference, if the driver can control it at the limit of tire braking ability, the benefit is shorter stopping distance, sometimes one can out brake ABS 1 driver. I usually ran cars with at least 13 total BB value ( 9/4 to 10/9 ) and when I try less than 10 in total ( 5/3 ) - braking performance is badly hurt especially on older cars from pre 90's. The only problem is with high BB, tire lock up is easy to occur, more than 60% braking force ( red bar on HUD ) is enough to lock the tire on medium speed, which make most brake pedals harder to modulate with this high BB.

Anyone have experience with pedals and high BB ( at least 13 total value )? Any suggestion for others who want to try it ?
 
I find 0/0 is useful for getting used to ABS 0 & for really badly behaved cars - i.e. those that snap oversteer at the faintest touch of the brake pedal. For the rest, I vary between 1/0 to 3/2, depending on the car.
 
So it's not possible without decreasing pedal travel :( I was thinking of getting a wheel, but if I can't use high BB, I'd rather stick with my stick :) Any chance of pedal mod to alleviate this ? Maybe load cell, hydraulic pedal mod or any other tricks to lengthen travel or increase input range ?
 
So it's not possible without decreasing pedal travel :( I was thinking of getting a wheel, but if I can't use high BB, I'd rather stick with my stick :) Any chance of pedal mod to alleviate this ? Maybe load cell, hydraulic pedal mod or any other tricks to lengthen travel or increase input range ?

Simply put, you can do it. But you'll lose 40-50% of your pedal travel, so I don't see the point.

I can lock up going into Mulsanne corner with a BB of 6-3 on most cars, so 9-4 is excessive.
 
So it's not possible without decreasing pedal travel :( I was thinking of getting a wheel, but if I can't use high BB, I'd rather stick with my stick :) Any chance of pedal mod to alleviate this ? Maybe load cell, hydraulic pedal mod or any other tricks to lengthen travel or increase input range ?

Ridox, once you're used to a wheel, you'll NEVER go back to the DS3...
 
PD should have allowed input range changes for pedals, it's just bizarre that with face button on a stick (DS2) I can drive with no ABS and 10/10 BB with no problem as long as the brake input is within less than 50% on HUD - and it's quite easy to modulate as the button needs considerable pressure to get 100%. Maybe I am the only one here who uses very high BB with no ABS :( I wish I can migrate to wheel without making compromise in having lower BB.
 
PD should have allowed input range changes for pedals, it's just bizarre that with face button on a stick (DS2) I can drive with no ABS and 10/10 BB with no problem as long as the brake input is within less than 50% on HUD - and it's quite easy to modulate as the button needs considerable pressure to get 100%. Maybe I am the only one here who uses very high BB with no ABS :( I wish I can migrate to wheel without making compromise in having lower BB.

I'm not saying that you can't use high BB on the wheel. But you'll only have a usable brake travel of about 50% (as you do on the DS3 apparently according to the bold), so I simply don't see the point.

By using a lower BB you then have the whole brake travel to play which:
1. Makes modulation easier.
2. Makes trailbraking far easier.
3. Gives you more precise brake inputs.

Win. Win.

EDIT: The input range change on the pedal is just your BB, surely. :odd:
 
Ridox2JZGTE
^ Agree, higher BB value does make quite a difference, if the driver can control it at the limit of tire braking ability, the benefit is shorter stopping distance, sometimes one can out brake ABS 1 driver. I usually ran cars with at least 13 total BB value ( 9/4 to 10/9 ) and when I try less than 10 in total ( 5/3 ) - braking performance is badly hurt especially on older cars from pre 90's. The only problem is with high BB, tire lock up is easy to occur, more than 60% braking force ( red bar on HUD ) is enough to lock the tire on medium speed, which make most brake pedals harder to modulate with this high BB.

Anyone have experience with pedals and high BB ( at least 13 total value )? Any suggestion for others who want to try it ?

Surely higher BB makes only a difference if current BB can't lock the front or rear tyres and with ABS off, that is quite easy to do with low BB. High BB will only help ABS 1 users, hinder no ABS users on road cars in my opinion without testing.
 
Surely higher BB makes only a difference if current BB can't lock the front or rear tyres and with ABS off, that is quite easy to do with low BB. High BB will only help ABS 1 users, hinder no ABS users on road cars in my opinion without testing.

I have been driving with high BB since more than a year ago, if you watch my no ABS videos, they are all done with with high BB 7/5 at min to 10/8, even with 500+pp cars on CM tire + tire wear. I find that high BB more immediate in scrubbing speed, but still manageable to trail brake.
Watching these videos below, do you think the high BB allows later braking than low BB ?

I just like the responsiveness of the brakes with high BB, I used to practice with low BB, but after increasing bit by bit to brake later, I can't go back :D.

Lancia Stratos '73 at Nurburgring GP/F, 2:47.090




Lamborghini Countach 25Th Anniversary '88 at Rome, 1:23.518





Dodge Viper GTS '02 at Road Course Daytona, 2:10.372

 
I don't think you brake any later, I think you just limit yourself to 50% of useable brake pedal travel?

I guess it's all about feel once you switch ABS off. As to what's most realistic, well... braking distances / times - it's a shadowy topic isn't it? Certainly not like the plethora of quarter mile discussions we've had over the years!

;)
 
I don't think you brake any later, I think you just limit yourself to 50% of useable brake pedal travel?

I guess it's all about feel once you switch ABS off. As to what's most realistic, well... braking distances / times - it's a shadowy topic isn't it? Certainly not like the plethora of quarter mile discussions we've had over the years!

;)

I have been wondering about whether I can the brake later or not when using high BB, I certainly like the immediate feeling of scrubbing the speed - mainly from high speed, this is noticeable on Monza or any track with high speed straight, even with less braking force due to higher BB, I can feel the speed decreasing faster, at least that's how I feel :) Try low BB on old cars pre 80's then increase the BB, definitely more braking power even with lower brake force applied on HUD. Please watch the Stratos video, you can try to compare with lower BB ( your run ) and see how the braking distance and how fast the speed is scrubbed.

PS : Those no ABS videos were done during practice session, no hotlap, just casual run.
 
Ridox2JZGTE
PD should have allowed input range changes for pedals, it's just bizarre that with face button on a stick (DS2) I can drive with no ABS and 10/10 BB with no problem as long as the brake input is within less than 50% on HUD - and it's quite easy to modulate as the button needs considerable pressure to get 100%. Maybe I am the only one here who uses very high BB with no ABS :( I wish I can migrate to wheel without making compromise in having lower BB.

Thats your key, the face buttons of a DS2 take a lot of pressure to hit 100% so when you press it normally you are only giving ~50% force, thats why you can run high BB.
Do me a favour, can you try with the DS3 L2 & R2 buttons, see if you can still brake ok.
I find it locks way too easily and is very hard to modulate:-)

I will try with DS3 face buttons.
 
Ridox2JZGTE
I have been driving with high BB since more than a year ago, if you watch my no ABS videos, they are all done with with high BB 7/5 at min to 10/8, even with 500+pp cars on CM tire + tire wear. I find that high BB more immediate in scrubbing speed, but still manageable to trail brake.
Watching these videos below, do you think the high BB allows later braking than low BB ?

I just like the responsiveness of the brakes with high BB, I used to practice with low BB, but after increasing bit by bit to brake later, I can't go back :D.

Lancia Stratos '73 at Nurburgring GP/F, 2:47.090
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBBkw9P_lPs">YouTube Link</a>


Lamborghini Countach 25Th Anniversary '88 at Rome, 1:23.518
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QafTYRyTOl4">YouTube Link</a>


Dodge Viper GTS '02 at Road Course Daytona, 2:10.372
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YmpFOYC_YI">YouTube Link</a>

Having a quick look at videos, you seem to be braking too early and also braking a bit below the limit. You might benefit from using lower BB to brake closer to limit of tyres as well as braking slightly later for corners.
 
Thats your key, the face buttons of a DS2 take a lot of pressure to hit 100% so when you press it normally you are only giving ~50% force, thats why you can run high BB.
Do me a favour, can you try with the DS3 L2 & R2 buttons, see if you can still brake ok.
I find it locks way too easily and is very hard to modulate:-)

Well, I do have the L2 and R2 set as secondary brake and gas, sometimes I hit the L2 to left foot brake and trail brake deep into the corner, it's more precise than the face buttons. I use triangle for brake and circle for gas. This is with DS2, I never use DS3, pointless IMO, DS3 is way worse when it comes to pressure sensitive input. I used L2 on some of those no ABS video :D
 
Having a quick look at videos, you seem to be braking too early and also braking a bit below the limit. You might benefit from using lower BB to brake closer to limit of tyres as well as braking slightly later for corners.

As I said, those were practice run, not a push hard lap :) This is more evident on Viper GTS Daytona Road video, I brake quite early on 1st corner. I ran seasonals TT with same BB, usually 9/6 to 10/8, sometimes I can outbrake ghost with ABS 1 on certain corners.

Duh, double whammy post :(
 
The braking distance is the same. High BB will only be marginally better at very high speed because you can instantly find the brake threshold whereas with a lower setting you might have to be at 100% pressure for .5 of a second to get the speed down to a point where you can lock up. However you'll gain the marginal amount of time lost, back when trailbraking.

When you've reached the brake threshold your tyres have no more grip to give so it doesn't matter what your BB is, you can not brake any faster as more pressure=lock up.

Ridox, look at your Stratos video at Nurb GP. On the first corner you're barely using 40% of your brake travel/pressure. I would normally be using around 80-90% there, maybe even 100% for a split second, and will be stopping in the same distance, but in the slower corners I can use 50-60%, where you're barely using 10-20%. You see, you're robbing yourself of that extra brake travel by using the higher setting.

Because of it your also not trailbraking at all near the limit as the higher brake setting means you have less grip available for turning.
 
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The braking distance is the same. High BB will only be marginally better at very high speed because you can instantly find the brake threshold whereas with a lower setting you might have to be at 100% pressure for .5 of a second to get the speed down to a point where you can lock up. However you'll gain the marginal amount of time lost, back when trailbraking.

When you've reached the brake threshold your tyres have no more grip to give so it doesn't matter what your BB is, you can not brake any faster as more pressure=lock up.

Ridox, look at your Stratos video at Nurb GP. On the first corner you're barely using 40% of your brake travel/pressure. I would normally be using around 80-90% there, maybe even 100% for a split second, and will be stopping in the same distance, but I have in the slower corners I can use 50-60%, where your'e barely using 10-20%. You see, you're robbing yourself of that extra brake travel by using the higher setting.

Because of it your also not trailbraking at all near the limit as the higher brake setting means you have less grip available for turning.

I see, thanks for the observation, so I am wondering now, what's the optimum BB where there's no more gain to be had in braking performance ?

This one is done at lower BB 7/5, I think this might be the middle ground, thoughts ?

Ferrari 458 Italia at Monza Rain, 2:07.xxx
 
I remember how hard you had to press the face buttons on DS2 to get 100%.
That is the reason Ridox can use high BB and is only ~40% strength.

Good driving with no ABS though Ridox.
 
Ridox2JZGTE
As I said, those were practice run, not a push hard lap :) This is more evident on Viper GTS Daytona Road video, I brake quite early on 1st corner. I ran seasonals TT with same BB, usually 9/6 to 10/8, sometimes I can outbrake ghost with ABS 1 on certain corners.

Duh, double whammy post :(

I'll upload my recent no ABS (Low BB) lap for last TT later today or tomorrow if you like to compare? Do you have any laps were you are pushing closer to limit? I still think you are hindering yourself with such high BB. Which drivers ghost are you outbraking, number 1 times?
 
I see, thanks for the observation, so I am wondering now, what the optimum BB where there's no more gain to be had in braking performance ?

This one is done at lower BB 7/5, I think this might be the middle ground, thoughts ?

Completely track and car dependent. Though I tend to go 4-2 for road cars. Even at Monza. As I said, I probably lose 0.050 in initial braking but because of the extra travel, I gain that back trailbraking into the corner and through the lower entry speed corners.

I always recommend 4-2 for road, 6-3 for race. That way you can reach the brake threshold at almost any speed.
 
Completely track and car dependent. Though I tend to go 4-2 for road cars. Even at Monza. As I said, I probably lose 0.050 in initial braking but because of the extra travel, I gain that back trailbraking into the corner and through the lower entry speed corners.

I always recommend 4-2 for road, 6-3 for race. That way you can reach the brake threshold at almost any speed.


I'll give lower BB a try now, I might have to press even harder & longer to brake, but considering your inputs on trail braking and braking threshold, I definitely will use it, maybe add 1 or 2 on some cars or certain tire combo which can be driven more aggressively, see how it goes :D Thanks Ford 👍

PS : One of the reason I stuck with high BB is also it's easier on my thumb as I don't have to press really hard to get 100% input :D
 
I'll upload my recent no ABS (Low BB) lap for last TT later today or tomorrow if you like to compare? Do you have any laps were you are pushing closer to limit? I still think you are hindering yourself with such high BB. Which drivers ghost are you outbraking, number 1 times?


These are the videos with very close to the limit braking, the Cobra, while the Maserati :embarrassed: is pretty close ;).

Cobra 427 at Cote D' Azure, 1:44.776



Maserati GranTurismo S '08 at Motegi Full Road Course, 2:22.683


I often out brake or end up in front when hitting the apex of ghosts from the GTA themed seasonals TT ( the one with Nissan GTR at Toscana, R34 GTR and R32 GTR Vspec at Eifel ), the ghosts were from mid rank ( 5th to 10th ) I never use 1st ghost, as I always use unmodified car - can't even keep up on straight speed, just changing the BB. Most of top ten cars were doing weight reduction, and bolt on upgrades.

It didn't happen every time or on all corners, but does happen time to time when I am pushing really hard and in the zone :D - usually in the 1st corner or two. Mind you that I did the TT early, so the times from ghost were not that fast yet. Usually I stopped playing the TT after a week since it began. The GTA themed seasonals TT were the mainly the TTs that I was seriously put my effort into, they were all done on stock car, only BB change, so they tend to have a few seconds slower times than number 1 time, except the one at Nordschleife, the stock tuned 370Z was a nightmare.

Here are some of my time and rank that I put my effort into :

TT 40#3 rank 552 Leaf G ( GT Academy ) '11 1:17.546
TT 41#4 rank 2166 370Z ( GT Academy ) '08 1:21.797
TT 41#3 rank 1111 Skyline GTR V Spec II ( GT Academy ) '94 2:02.671
TT 42#4 rank 4218 GTR Black Edition ( GT Academy ) '12 1:57.356
TT 42#3 rank 1409 Skyline GTR V Spec Nur ( GT Academy ) '02 1:02.180
TT 43#4 rank 7585 370Z Tuned ( GT Academy ) '08 7:46.257
TT 43#3 rank 1778 GTR Black Edition Tuned ( GT Academy ) '12 1:53.836

TT 42#2 rank 3122 Skyline GTR R Tune ( R34 ) '99 2:01.106 - Road Course Daytona - stock car AFAIK

All were done with BB changes only, around 9/6 to 10/7. Not great rankings but I think I fared well with stock cars.


The Maserati has one late braking that caused my car to understeer a bit and the front tires overwhelmed ( goes red for a moment )
 
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I'll give lower BB a try now, I might have to press even harder & longer to brake, but considering your inputs on trail braking and braking threshold, I definitely will use it, maybe add 1 or 2 on some cars or certain tire combo which can be driven more aggressively, see how it goes :D Thanks Ford 👍

PS : One of the reason I stuck with high BB is also it's easier on my thumb as I don't have to press really hard to get 100% input :D

I mean, if you try low BB and don't like it then by all means, use high BB. I don't want to force anything on you, you need to play the game how you want to. 👍

But I honestly think that you'll be quicker with lower BB, even if it feels like you're better with high. :)
 
FordMKIVJ5
I mean, if you try low BB and don't like it then by all means, use high BB. I don't want to force anything on you, you need to play the game how you want to. 👍

But I honestly think that you'll be quicker with lower BB, even if it feels like you're better with high. :)

It is better for DS3 and wheel users but for DS2 face buttons i don't think it will be better than how he already uses it with high BB because he doesn't have to push as hard which gets uncomfortable.
 
These are the videos with very close to the limit braking, the Cobra, while the Maserati :embarrassed: is pretty close ;).

Cobra 427 at Cote D' Azure, 1:44.776



Maserati GranTurismo S '08 at Motegi Full Road Course, 2:22.683


I often out brake or end up in front when hitting the apex of ghosts from the GTA themed seasonals TT ( the one with Nissan GTR at Toscana, R34 GTR and R32 GTR Vspec at Eifel ), the ghosts were from mid rank ( 5th to 10th ) I never use 1st ghost, as I always use unmodified car - can't even keep up on straight speed, just changing the BB. Most of top ten cars were doing weight reduction, and bolt on upgrades.

It didn't happen every time or on all corners, but does happen time to time when I am pushing really hard and in the zone :D - usually in the 1st corner or two. Mind you that I did the TT early, so the times from ghost were not that fast yet. Usually I stopped playing the TT after a week since it began. The GTA themed seasonals TT were the mainly the TTs that I was seriously put my effort into, they were all done on stock car, only BB change, so they tend to have a few seconds slower times than number 1 time, except the one at Nordschleife, the stock tuned 370Z was a nightmare.

Here are some of my time and rank that I put my effort into :

TT 40#3 rank 552 Leaf G ( GT Academy ) '11 1:17.546
TT 41#4 rank 2166 370Z ( GT Academy ) '08 1:21.797
TT 41#3 rank 1111 Skyline GTR V Spec II ( GT Academy ) '94 2:02.671
TT 42#4 rank 4218 GTR Black Edition ( GT Academy ) '12 1:57.356
TT 42#3 rank 1409 Skyline GTR V Spec Nur ( GT Academy ) '02 1:02.180
TT 43#4 rank 7585 370Z Tuned ( GT Academy ) '08 7:46.257
TT 43#3 rank 1778 GTR Black Edition Tuned ( GT Academy ) '12 1:53.836

TT 42#2 rank 3122 Skyline GTR R Tune ( R34 ) '99 2:01.106 - Road Course Daytona - stock car AFAIK

All were done with BB changes only, around 9/6 to 10/7. Not great rankings but I think I fared well with stock cars.


The Maserati has one late braking that caused my car to understeer a bit and the front tires overwhelmed ( goes red for a moment )


That looks closer to limit.

Here is link to video that shows no ABS driving very much on limit by Dan: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrjMC9FMR_0

I didn't do GTA themed seasonal TTs that much, just tried to do a lap to gold them. Usually early TT laps are quite a bit off limit but you did well to beat some of them ghosts with stock car in context if you managed to power out early as well. Only the final Nurburgring one I tried to push with stock car and did only one complete lap with ABS on 1 so was casual TTing, got time of 7:37.915. The only no ABS TT I did is this one (Will upload lap later although lap was quite a bit below limit, I think I could have improved 3-4 tenths if I did a few more laps on it with setup I had): http://www.mygranturismo.net/rankings.php?sec=3&board=100&abs=0

I found braking as well as top times possible with no ABS in that TT and found it harder than I thought it would to keep up with my ghost with a brief try using ABS 1. I was losing more on power (Rather than braking with no ABS) out off exits due to slightly down on BHP as well as using a tune for active steering users but I was driving without. Would have improved a few more tenths if everything optimised but still quite a bit of fastest as it is a bogey track for me as I never seem to be that fast on that track. It is a shame we don't have leaderboards like GT5P for stock cars, would have helped get better at tracks as more motivation to push to limit. Hopefully next GT game has them.
 
I see, thanks for the observation, so I am wondering now, what's the optimum BB where there's no more gain to be had in braking performance ?

This one is done at lower BB 7/5, I think this might be the middle ground, thoughts ?

If high BB is working for you and you like it, then keep using it, even if it is a placebo effect. To answer your question though, the optimum BB is that which is just high enough to get to lock when you brake initially at the highest speed corner entry. So at Road Course Indy for example with a BB of say 5/2 you can lock up the tires with full force initial braking at the first corner but not with 4/1 then 5/2 is the optimum level because once you're locked, anything higher is of no benefit.

Of course that's assuming you want to maximize pedal travel and with it, precision. It's not to say that 8/4 won't work, it will, you just use less pedal/button travel and if that's what works for you then keep doing it, regardless of what the "right" answer is.
 
I mean, if you try low BB and don't like it then by all means, use high BB. I don't want to force anything on you, you need to play the game how you want to. 👍

But I honestly think that you'll be quicker with lower BB, even if it feels like you're better with high. :)

I'll lower the BB when I am cruising in arcade time trial or races, and see how I fare with it, I'll try to compare lap times as well with my usual BB.

It is better for DS3 and wheel users but for DS2 face buttons i don't think it will be better than how he already uses it with high BB because he doesn't have to push as hard which gets uncomfortable.

Yeah, my thumb do get sore after a few hours of driving with lower BB, compound that with the high pressure needed for the gas, which I have to press hard most of the time already. I still like the DS2 even with the sore thumb after long drive, the benefit of precision is just great.

That looks closer to limit.

Here is link to video that shows no ABS driving very much on limit by Dan: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrjMC9FMR_0

I didn't do GTA themed seasonal TTs that much, just tried to do a lap to gold them. Usually early TT laps are quite a bit off limit but you did well to beat some of them ghosts with stock car in context if you managed to power out early as well. Only the final Nurburgring one I tried to push with stock car and did only one complete lap with ABS on 1 so was casual TTing, got time of 7:37.915. The only no ABS TT I did is this one (Will upload lap later although lap was quite a bit below limit, I think I could have improved 3-4 tenths if I did a few more laps on it with setup I had): http://www.mygranturismo.net/rankings.php?sec=3&board=100&abs=0

I found braking as well as top times possible with no ABS in that TT and found it harder than I thought it would to keep up with my ghost with a brief try using ABS 1. I was losing more on power (Rather than braking with no ABS) out off exits due to slightly down on BHP as well as using a tune for active steering users but I was driving without. Would have improved a few more tenths if everything optimised but still quite a bit of fastest as it is a bogey track for me as I never seem to be that fast on that track. It is a shame we don't have leaderboards like GT5P for stock cars, would have helped get better at tracks as more motivation to push to limit. Hopefully next GT game has them.

I kind of hoped the GTA seasonals did not allow tuning, as the pp limit was pretty close to stock car pp, I chose to do the TT with stock car, some even without oil change as I am curious of how much time difference a little tuning does.
I enjoyed them as I am not very good with tuning for lap times, now I wished I had made backup of all the best lap replay for the TTs when I deleted my game data :(

If high BB is working for you and you like it, then keep using it, even if it is a placebo effect. To answer your question though, the optimum BB is that which is just high enough to get to lock when you brake initially at the highest speed corner entry. So at Road Course Indy for example with a BB of say 5/2 you can lock up the tires with full force initial braking at the first corner but not with 4/1 then 5/2 is the optimum level because once you're locked, anything higher is of no benefit.

Of course that's assuming you want to maximize pedal travel and with it, precision. It's not to say that 8/4 won't work, it will, you just use less pedal/button travel and if that's what works for you then keep doing it, regardless of what the "right" answer is.

I had no issues with less brake travel with my input device ( DS2 ), in fact it is easier on my thumb lol -less pressure. But I am still going to give lower BB a try again, it's been a while since I used low BB, maybe I can trail brake even better, who knows.
 
Glad to see more and more people are starting to recognize that ABS in this game should really be labeled as Assisted Braking Stability function and not Anti-lock Braking System. I think that's what PD initially intended to name it

That's great Ridox that you are giving lower BB settings another chance!! Personally I feel it matches the threshold of cars in real life more realistically and can also make transitioning into other sim racers out there like iracing and rfactor much more comfortably. Check out the braking in this iracing vid. Notice his avg maximum threshold is about 80-85%. It greatly represents braking behavior that is definitely existent and matches/mimics the lower end of the BB setting spectrum of GT5

 
Check out the braking in this iracing vid. Notice his avg maximum threshold is about 80-85%. It greatly represents braking behavior that is definitely existent and matches/mimics the lower end of the BB setting spectrum of GT5

I have my ABS vibration set to 78% currently on my Fanatec Turbo S wheel to help driving with ABS 0. I have just used ABS 0 for couple of weeks and finding right default BB. Also I have been practicing at first with front heavy cars like corvette to start so that effect of weight transfer is easier for me to control.
 
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