[GUIDE] So you want to drive without ABS... (please read OP)

[Johnnypenso]

Last night I decided I'd force myself to really try ABS off for the first time by doing the Aspec 4hr Roadster endurance race. I'd never spent much time with ABS off before, and thus never realized the importance of brake balance. A couple laps of mad braking oversteer into the race and I figured out the problem and decided to fiddle with the brake balance tuning and restart.

Now about an hour into the race and I can say, ABS off sure does make a difference! It adds another element to the driving experience I now realize I've been missing. No more "Just stomp on the pedal at the right time", braking into a corner now takes as much if not more concentration than exiting. It also makes me appreciate the brake balance controller. Granted I've only tried it with a tuned and aero'd MX-5, but I'm confident with the right tuning I could get acceptable non-ABS braking performance with any vehicle. Every other time I've tried ABS off, I'd given up after a few minutes(seconds) because of how absurdly poor the braking performance was compared to ABS on. Now I'm just disappointed with myself for not figuring out sooner that you need to change the brake balance for ABS 0 to be manageable.

Too bad I didn't read this guide yesterday. Oh well, I think I'll be leaving(constantly setting) ABS to 0 for a while now.

That was pretty much how I ended up trying no ABS and the I ended up with the same result as you. Anyone that makes a serious effort like you have, in committing several hours to the project with the attitude that it can be done, will probably have the same result as you.

Well said. 👍👍

 

[OK8]

No more "Just stomp on the pedal at the right time"

👍 👍 👍

Nice to see the ABS 0 scene is growing larger and larger. After such a long time, the game just keeps on improving.

 

[ItsAllAboutWins]

Hi. Long time reader, first time 0 ABS user. I used to play Forza with everything off, came here and tried the same approach. First car I tested got sideways on the first straight under braking. After recently learning about the RA menu, I've been wanting to have another go at 0 abs. When tuning up your abs, do you set it like a transmission, so that it locks up just at 100% when braking on the longest straight? If it doesn't lock up, then increase the front until it does?

 

[FordMKIVJ5]

Hi. Long time reader, first time 0 ABS user. I used to play Forza with everything off, came here and tried the same approach. First car I tested got sideways on the first straight under braking. After recently learning about the RA menu, I've been wanting to have another go at 0 abs. When tuning up your abs, do you set it like a transmission, so that it locks up just at 100% when braking on the longest straight? If it doesn't lock up, then increase the front until it does?

I always tend to have my brake bias set so that I can hold 100% brake for around 1-2 seconds in the highest speed braking zone.

I always used to use higher biases so that I could lock up pretty much anywhere but found that I could run much quicker with a lower bias- the higher biases make the car much more skittish and trailbraking becomes very, very difficult. With a bias around 4-1 it becomes a lot easier. 👍

 

[ItsAllAboutWins]

I always tend to have my brake bias set so that I can hold 100% brake for around 1-2 seconds in the highest speed braking zone.

I always used to use higher biases so that I could lock up pretty much anywhere but found that I could run much quicker with a lower bias- the higher biases make the car much more skittish and trailbraking becomes very, very difficult. With a bias around 4-1 it becomes a lot easier. 👍

On Forza I would use 130% brake pressure, but after thinking about it, I only used 60-70% of the trigger while braking. I've not had gt5 or a wheel for very long, I figured I would switch over to abs0 before any bad pedal stomping habits form. As of right now, I catch myself only using about 80% of the pedal except for on long straights where I mash it to 100. . I'm gonna give it a go here in a bit with a golf 01 rm on autumn ring (league race saturday) and I'm sure ill report back with my frustration.

Btw, thanks for the thread. It's extremely helpful.

Edit: another thing I noticed, when downshifting with abs 1, the car automatically gives a blip of the throttle. Abs 0 doesn't. That could also be a reason why people slide out in a curve. I don't know if its been noticed yet. I'm sure it has.

 

[FordMKIVJ5]

On Forza I would use 130% brake pressure, but after thinking about it, I only used 60-70% of the trigger while braking. I've not had gt5 or a wheel for very long, I figured I would switch over to abs0 before any bad pedal stomping habits form. As of right now, I catch myself only using about 80% of the pedal except for on long straights where I mash it to 100. . I'm gonna give it a go here in a bit with a golf 01 rm on autumn ring (league race saturday) and I'm sure ill report back with my frustration.

Btw, thanks for the thread. It's extremely helpful.

Edit: another thing I noticed, when downshifting with abs 1, the car automatically gives a blip of the throttle. Abs 0 doesn't. That could also be a reason why people slide out in a curve. I don't know if its been noticed yet. I'm sure it has.

Try a high setting and see how you like it, and then try a lower setting. That way you'll get a direct comparison. I've just always found a setting with a bit of leeway at the heaviest of braking zones helps me. 👍

I actually haven't noticed that it doesn't blip, I've always known that it's easy to get the back end around in some cars without ABS, but never noticed it. I'll have to check it out.

 

[ItsAllAboutWins]

I actually haven't noticed that it doesn't blip, I've always known that it's easy to get the back end around in some cars without ABS, but never noticed it. I'll have to check it out.

I noticed it on Ridox's videos, when down downshifting, the car doesn't rev up at all, but if abs is on 1 it does a slight blip of the throttle no matter when you downshift. So if someone is having problems with sliding going into corners or trail braking, a simple tap of the throttle while downshifting may alleviate it. I don't know how it is with abs 0 but on abs 1, if you press the throttle while braking, the brake over rides the throttle input. May be something worth checking into.

 

[nowayback]

great guide ! is there also one about driving w/o srf ?

 

[MrHot88]

Very good advice here, thanks for taking the time to write this.

I always raced with ABS off, from the first time I played the game.
Set breaks at 2-1, most of my cars are setup this way, no lockups for the most part.

Btw, I have always had all assist off so I don't know the difference between it on or off.
Everyone will get something from your artical, good stuff mate.
Kevin

So you want to Drive without ABS...

Taking the step to driving without ABS is a big one, the new characteristics unlocked from each car mean that driving in GT5 takes on a whole new dimension.

Starting Out

Input Devices:
Controller- difficult and I wouldn't advise it. That's not to say that it's not possible/fun. Recommended to set the brake and gas to either the right stick or two L2/R2.
DFGT (what I use)/G25/G27- Mushy brake pedal, but the force feedback makes up for it in terms of feeling the brakes. Never had a real issue with the mushiness though.
Higher end (Clubsports etc.)- Should be great, never tried anything like this myself.

At the end of the day, no pedal is going to replicate the feedback you get from a real life brake.

Car choice and track choice are important to starting out. Choose a low powered car that you're comfortable with and is, most importantly, stable.

I'd recommend something like the Premium Honda Civic Type-R (EK) completely stock. It doesn't take too much to lock the wheels, however when it does it's neutral and doesn't spit you off into the nearest barrier. This way you can get used to dealing with front wheel lock up and learn how the car reacts. I'd certainly recommend front wheel drive cars to start with. RWD cars tend to react very differently to braking.

Track choice is also rather important, although it may not seem it. You'll want to choose something that has nice, simple corners that don't require some deft brake work: avoid Daytona, Suzuka and Tsukuba as turn 1 at those tracks are a nightmare to the inexperienced no ABSer. I'd recommend something like Monza to get used to high-speed braking and something like Nurburgring GP/D for more complexity and a bit more trailbraking.

Beginner's guide to no ABS brake balance settings:

What you have to realise when beginning driving with no ABS is that no car has the same braking characteristic. Some will be supremely stable (generally speaking FFs), some will react violently to trail braking (generally 4WDs and MRs) and some will have very little threshold before the tyres lock (Camaro SS '10 etc.).

First things first, brake balance is your friend. The GT5 standard 5:5 brake balance will send you into a spin the first time you touch the brakes. Because of this, you have to adjust the brake balance to suit each vehicle's individual characteristics, both through the overall braking power (how high your values are) and the ratio of front to rear bias. Generally speaking a bias at which the front locks before the rear is desirable, as in the case of lock up, you'll plow into the corner, rather than going in taillights first.

Technically having a brake bias where you can lock the brakes at any speed is best because you can reach the threshold at any speed, however I've found it to be faster and certainly more consistent to set so you can hold 100% for a few seconds (i.e. you'll lock up below 100mph). This is also a lot more realistic and a lot more fun.

Here's my method for getting a reasonable setting:

Road Cars:

Starting balance: 4:2

From there, if you find you are locking up the front too easily, move each value down 1, to 3:1. If you still find you're locking the front too easily, try 2:1 or 2:0. Beyond that you are losing too much braking force at high speed. It's also good to note that a brake value of 0, does not mean no braking on those wheels, it is just the minimum value.

In some cars, for example a lot of 4WD cars, you'll find that the rear slides out under trailbraking. This is why I always use a starting value of 5:2 for 4WDs. If you find you're locking too easily, try 4:1.

For MR cars, they are always a bit unstable and even with a good BB setting they'll generally still get loose when trailbraking. However start from 4:2 and tailor from there. With MRs, I generally find 4:2 or 4:1 to be best.

Racing Cars

Starting Balance: 6:3 (for older cars I'd start with 4-2, for example I use 4:1 on my Ford GT MkIV)

Because racing cars have higher grip tyres and downforce, they can withstand more braking force. That's not to say, however, that some racing cars won't lock easily. For example, the Autobacs Garaiya lock it's front tyres rather easily, so for that car I use a balance of 4:2.

Apply the same rules as for road cars to tailor your BB. Locking the rear? Try 6:2 or 5:2. Locking the front too easily? Try 4:2 or 5:2.

Important notes on BB setting:

• These are just my tips, some people like to use higher balances, some people like lower ones. Find what suits you.
• Each track may require a different balance. A track with lots of high speed braking zones (La Sarthe, Monza etc.) might be better if you raise your BB a bit. A track like Laguna Seca where trailbraking is very important and the heavy braking zones are bumpy (T2 & Corkscrew), might be better suited with a slightly lower bias.
• Locking the inside wheel isn't necessarily a BB issue. It can also be down to a bad diff setting. The Deceleration value can be tailored to lock the inside or outside wheel first, try to get a happy medium.
• Adjust your BB to suit the situation you're using it in. For example, in a one off hot lap, running higher brake balances is preferable to gain that higher braking force (especially at high speed). However in a race where tyre wear is a factor, you may want to lower your BB slightly to minimise lock up.
• You'll also want to change you BB to suit the state of both the weather and the state of your tyres. If it's wet, you'll lock up a lot faster (I mean a lot, it's very easy to underestimate) so keep the same ration of F:R, but lower the values (using 6:3? Go to 4:2 or even 2:1 etc.). If your front tyres are getting worn too fast, flick the rear value up slightly, or take 1 click off your front one. If your rears are wearing, put a bit more front on. You'll also want to change your bias even if they're wearing evenly, however, keep the same ratio.

General Tips for Braking with no ABS

• First off and very importantly; don't be afraid of locking up, it's not that big a deal. Simply ease back up on the pedal until your tyres regain grip. Don't jump off the pedal, especially if your turning, as that unsettles the car and will send an already unstable car, over the edge.
• Listen and (if you're using a wheel) Feel. Due to the distinct lack of feedback that your pedal/stick/button gives you, you need to learn to listen to when the tyres are close to locking and, more importantly, feel it in the force feedback. You'll know when you feel it, it's a lightening of the wheel.
• Understand threshold braking: The faster you are going the more force the brakes can apply to the tyres, as your speed decreases, so does the brake threshold (the exact point at which the tyre loses grip and locks). This means that in order to brake without ABS you need to tailor your brake pressure according to the speed at which you're entering the corner. For a fast corner, you may need to apply 100% pressure for a split second before slowly easing the pedal out, keeping it in line with the brake threshold for maximum braking efficiency. This is tricky to do and will take some practise. You can always hold a steady lowish pressure, however you will not be braking as effectively.
• Trail Braking: turning uses up some of the available grip of your tyres, this means that in order to trail brake into a corner, you can't use all the available grip of the tyres by threshold braking. Instead you have to adjust your braking to the amount of steering angle you are using. More steering angle=less brake pressure. Simples.
• When using no ABS you need to be aware of the track surface, if there's a bump in the braking zone (Corkscrew, Tokyo Reverse T1) you need to modulate the brake pedal to avoid lock up (ease up).
• Some cars just don't work well without ABS, some do. Car choice is a key part of enjoying no ABS driving.
• Smoking the inside wheel every now and then doesn't really matter, we all do it, however in a race where tyre wear is a factor, you may want to be a little more cautious.
• Use it to your advantage. Some cars, especially 4WD ones, you can slide the car slightly by braking and turning hard. I find that if used correctly and appropriately, this can help you immensely on twisty tracks.
• Don't be afraid to race people using ABS, challenge yourself.
  
  But why would I want to make myself slower?...
  
  Simply put, you won't. If you spend enough time practising and develop a feel for the brakes you'll be putting in times on a par with your ABS times. The fact is that if you get a perfect lap without ABS, it will be as good as one with, however you have more things to go wrong and therefore might not be as consistent.
  
  It will take time to get used to no ABS, it isn't going to happen overnight. So don't expect to be able to match your ABS times straight away, it may well take a good 10 hours of practise to get anywhere close.
  
  You need to practise. You need to get to know what brake balances work for you, how much you can brake while turning and the way the car reacts to braking in general.
  ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
  
  And most important of all: Have Fun
  It's not for some people and don't try and force it if you don't enjoy it. However, don't disregard turning ABS off without giving it a proper go first. 👍

I searched but couldn't find anything similar, however, apologies if it's already been done.

Anyway, I hope this is helpful and if anyone has any suggestions of what to add, please tell me and I'll do so.

 

[BJhartopp]

Great thread!

Something ive noticed on a few of the cars ive recently raced, specifically the Tuscan RM. Very stable but almost impossible to trail brake (i only use a DS3 :-() I even set the rear BB to 0 i think, still the back end would not stay put. Tried slowing my down shifts so im in a gear higher than i would normally when in turning and it really helped, i think the lower engine braking helped to stop the rear locking.........

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Great thread!

Something ive noticed on a few of the cars ive recently raced, specifically the Tuscan RM. Very stable but almost impossible to trail brake (i only use a DS3 :-() I even set the rear BB to 0 i think, still the back end would not stay put. Tried slowing my down shifts so im in a gear higher than i would normally when in turning and it really helped, i think the lower engine braking helped to stop the rear locking.........

You can try to brake like usual, shift down as the rev drops, but be sure to blip the throttle in every shift down, you can somehow trail brake deeper with this method, release the throttle slower to make the back end more stable.

 

[ItsAllAboutWins]

Well, I tried with no abs, the throttle still blips. I maybe Ridox is using the clutch and that's why it's not applying any throttle when downshifting

 

[FordMKIVJ5]

Thanks for all the comments, nice to know that the no ABS community is still around/growing.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Well, I tried with no abs, the throttle still blips. I maybe Ridox is using the clutch and that's why it's not applying any throttle when downshifting

I am using stick sometimes I do not manually blip the throttle when shifting down, it depends on the situation -- manually blipping the throttle only meant to help stabilize the rear end when braking hard as the auto blip won't cut it on certain situation ( the game release the throttle too early or too little throttle applied )

 

[Johnnypenso]

Great thread!

Something ive noticed on a few of the cars ive recently raced, specifically the Tuscan RM. Very stable but almost impossible to trail brake (i only use a DS3 :-() I even set the rear BB to 0 i think, still the back end would not stay put. Tried slowing my down shifts so im in a gear higher than i would normally when in turning and it really helped, i think the lower engine braking helped to stop the rear locking.........

I'm not sure if it's the right technical name for it but I use trailing throttle to fix this (G27). A car can be perfect on every corner but one or two, and a slight amount of throttle while braking and turning will fix the problem. It activates the Accel LSD while reducing rear brake effect, relatively increasing front brake bias. Or that's my theory anyway, but it works...lol. 👍👍

 

[thewheelman83]

Great post, FordMKIVJ5. Got hooked after dabbled in a NO ABS race organized by the group that i joined... Learned a lot from it, i mean a lot... i have to brake smooth and progressively plus i'm using the DS3 like Ridox2JZGTE. Very addictive. 👍

 

[JDMKING13]

Damn this is a great thread, I haven't played GT5 in a long time but I am getting back into it. I love the fact more people are driving with ABS off, I have no clue what happened to GT5 ABS system but in my league it is used more for and advance traction/stability control. ABS 1 keeps your car TOO stable during braking especially with bad braking technique. I use ABS 1 sometimes but only with cars with advance electronic system such as GTR35/ZR-1. If I am cruising with my family members/friends with A R35 I would use the electronic devices to keep the car stable(Electronic devices are just the TCS ASM ABS set at specific settings) Depending on my skill with the specific car I am using I usually run with all the electronic devices off but if I am using a ZR1 I will occasionally use ABS 1 only to ensure I don't wreck the car. We treat damage extremely seriously in my league a lot different from GT5 .

Because GT5 doesn't have brake upgrade I treat the brake balance as the braking system. For example a car such as a Honda S2000 will have a break balance of 2/0 VS a 458 4/2 in stock form. Obviously the 458 has stronger brakes In real life so thats why it comes with a 4/2. The S2000 is a lot easier to control while braking which we all can agree would be the same case in real life. No road car in my league goes no higher than a 4/2 BB in stock form. GT5 becomes a lot deeper with ABS off giving the gamer an amazing experience. I have driven with some of these guys in this thread with ABS off and it has been some of my best racing while owning GT5. I really encourage anybody who hasn't tried driving with ABS off to do so, because it will open new doors for you in my respectful opinion. If anybody want to try a whole new gaming experience with their GT5, please give me a PM I will gladly explain in detail how to achieve it. 👍

 

[bread82]

Great thread, seriously anything that spreads the word about no ABS is a good thing. People are so keen to dump SRF, TCS, ASM but for some reason people don't always like to drop the ABS. I've not ABS'd in over 6 months (is it just me or does that sentence sound like I'm at a drug rehab centre?!)

After locking up and ploughing straight on a couple of times, my thumb (on DS3 trigger) got far more sensitive and now I can feel what the car is doing. The first time it clicks is a wonderful feeling "wow, why didn't I always drive like this?!"

It can take a while to get your thumb used to not mashing the "pedal". In RL I once tried operating my brake pedal with my left foot and got a very similar feeling. My brain said "gentle brake", but my left foot muscle memory said "clutch in"!

Cheers,

Bread

 

[thewheelman83]

After locking up and ploughing straight on a couple of times, my thumb (on DS3 trigger) got far more sensitive and now I can feel what the car is doing. The first time it clicks is a wonderful feeling "wow, why didn't I always drive like this?!"

It can take a while to get your thumb used to not mashing the "pedal".

I experienced the same thing as you, Bread. Maybe we could race each other, just PM me.

And welcome to GTPlanet, Bread

 

[Giulietta73]

Been ABS 0 (and all aids off) for the last 6 months and my lap times are now faster than having ABS 1 on. Great thread, great advice:tup: ABS 0 saved GT5 as a game imho.

Also check out NCRthree's weekly Clean Run Challenges in the Seasonal section here for some nail-biting, seat of your pants style driving.

 

[bread82]

@ Wheelman: Cheers, I'll add you next time I'm on PSN.

 

[JohnM941]

WOW! what a well-written post of inspiration to go back and re-run some cars on ABS 0 to try and see the difference with ABS 1. I was beginning to get bored with how 'controlled' in the drifting all the cars seem to be, and maybe this is the answer to getting more real life feel in GT5, which is what I'm looking for.
Thanks again!

 

[Giulietta73]

WOW! what a well-written post of inspiration to go back and re-run some cars on ABS 0 to try and see the difference with ABS 1. I was beginning to get bored with how 'controlled' in the drifting all the cars seem to be, and maybe this is the answer to getting more real life feel in GT5, which is what I'm looking for.
Thanks again!

It somehow brings the suspension alive and I found I began predicting/reacting to the movements of the car:tup:
Still the best thing I ever did! Iwill be starting GT6 ABS0

 

[Youngun]

Anybody willing to update this to GT6 standard. Is very useful but expect it to be slightly difference under new model.

 

[Dusty1990]

Anybody willing to update this to GT6 standard. Is very useful but expect it to be slightly difference under new model.

Yea, this ^^

"Controller- difficult and I wouldn't advise it. That's not to say that it's not possible/fun. Recommended to set the brake and gas to either the right stick or to L2/R2.

Feel as though same rules apply with GT6.


Anyone using controller able to stay with the wheel and pedals users? Top 100 times in a TT maybe?

 

[FordMKIVJ5]

I don't feel that GT6 is any different to GT5 in regards to how to go about driving without ABS, if anything it's far easier.

The only real advice specific to GT6 I can give is avoid adding racing brakes to a car if it didn't come with them stock, especially cars running on non-racing tyres, provides no real benefit and only serves to reduce you BB from say 8-6 to 3-2 which reduces the room for and level of adjustment available.

 

[Youngun]

I do find that as i can lock up 0-0 in a fiat 500 '72. But as for that easier remark, maybe if your used to GT5 abs but if your not, still pretty hard. Had a non aid room and the amount of people that came and went or went off every corner was huge, still a learning curve and im still near the bottom.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Here is my test lap of one of my car posted in my garage, a J's Racing Honda FIT RS Turbo '10 450PP on comfort soft at Tsukuba, no ABS or any other aids, 8/10 BB - yes you read that right Time at 1:05s. Would be good for learning and reference on how to brake without brake assist, I am not really good driver, something in the middle

Take a note on 1st corner, and the hairpin

The tune in case anyone interested to drive the little rocket :

J's Racing Honda FIT RS Turbo '10 450PP

Special build of J's Racing Honda FIT RS '10 at 450PP based on Super Taikyu
Comfort Soft to Sports Medium​

View attachment 129545
​

CAR : Honda FIT RS '10
Tire : Comfort Soft to Sports Medium

Specs
Horsepower: 237 HP at 7300 RPM
Torque : 181.2 ft-lb at 6300 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 930 kg
Ballast : 53 kg
Ballast Position : -43
Weight Distribution : 62 / 38 - as in real life spec
Performance Points: 450

GT AUTO
Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( INSTALLED IN THIS BUILD ) - OPTIONAL - the J's Racing FIT has extensive chassis reinforcement and roll cage.
Aero Kits Type A
Rear Wing - Custom Wing Type B
Wheels : Standard Size - RAYS 57Gainer in GT6 Matte 017
Car Paint : GT6 Polarized 016


Tuning Parts Installed :
Engine Tuning Stage 1
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Catalytic Converter Sports
High RPM Range Turbo Kit
Twin Plate Clutch
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Adjustable LSD
Fully Customizable Suspension
Weigh Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood ( Body Color )
Window Weight Reduction



Suspension - J's Racing SPL OHLINS TYPE S Coilover Kit ( -50mm/-60mm maximum drop )
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 100 90
Spring Rate: 10.00 6.00
Dampers (Compression): 5 3
Dampers (Extension): 3 4
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 5
Camber Angle: 0.2 1.2 ( use zero camber all around for max grip )
Toe Angle: 0.07 -0.07

View attachment 129549​

LSD - 1.5 way LSD -medium preload
Initial Torque : 18
Acceleration Sensitivity: 20
Braking Sensitivity: 10


DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - 6 Speed Close ratio with ATS Final Gear
Install all power parts
Set Default
Use default Auto Max Speed at 200kmh / 124mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.000
2nd 2.175
3rd 1.650
4th 1.325
5th 1.100
6th 0.925
Set Final : 4.688 - ( adjust final according to track if necessary )


AERO
REAR : 20 ( MAX )


Brake Balance:
8/10 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 6/8, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance. I recommend to run 2 click higher at the rear.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 8/10 brake balance as starting point.

View attachment 129546


View attachment 129547

​

Notes :
I love this car, I really do !!!

For every GT6 player, this car is a must have The 1st car that every garage owner should be proud of, the FIT RS is a beginner's car, yet it has great potential when tuned and sounds decent, just don't use stock exhaust

This 450PP build is based on J's Racing Honda FIT RS track car ( Super Taikyu ). The weight distribution is fixed to replicate real life specification at 62/38, another GT6 mistake Fear not, this nose heavy FF is still agile and a rocket on twisty tracks.

For suspension, J's Racing OHLINS Type S coilover is used, with 10kg/mm front and 6kg/mm rear spring rate, the coilover allows -50mm drop on the front and -60mm drop at the rear. With damper tuned for balance and response, this FIT eats corners at Tsukuba with ease.

LSD is 1.5 way with medium preload for good response when traction is needed most, and low locking rate to balance things out.

Transmission uses 6 speed custom close ratio combined with ATS Final Gear at 4.688 This gives the FIT awesome acceleration that keeps the engine in sweet power range of the high rpm turbo. Adjust the final if necessary when higher top speed is required.

The car was tuned and tested at Tsukuba, Brands Hatch GP + Indy, Nurb GP/F and Streets of Willow
The J's Racing FIT RS 450PP is capable of mid 1:05s lap at Tsukuba on comfort soft. Included below is the replay file of the test lap with the time done on 1st lap Take a note of how braking is done on 1st corner, smooth is fast 👍

Don't forget to try this little pocket rocket on sports medium ( R comp semi slick ) to appreciate just how wonderful a FIT can be on the track !!!

ENJOY

​

All my cars posted in my garage are tuned without brake assist and on comfort tires except for a few race cars, so far the only garage that do so on Oh, it's a GT6 replay

 

[bread82]

One thing I noticed after adding racing brakes on some family saloon type cars:

As many people know, racing brakes are often an insta-lock up, basically a racing brake 0-0 is similar to normal brake 10-10. i.e. the brakes' stopping power vastly outweighs the stock equipped comfort/SH tyres grip.

However, this got me thinking the opposite way around... for a street style tune i.e. not maxed, probably running on CS or SH tyres... what is the best brake setting? Well with ABS 0 you can quite often see that stamping full on the standard brakes will *not* lock the wheels at med-high speed, then as you slow down to ~40 mph the brakes do lock the wheels. This seems more prominent on older, 1970's cars which tend to come with crappy CH or CM tyres, you upgrade the tyres and the brakes are no longer good enough. I don't know if PD is modelling older brake systems (small discs/drums, lower brake line pressure

Now all the above is pretty obvious, but it seems lots more pronounced in GT6 than GT5. There are many times when stock brake balance really doesn't have the power to slow you. All of the "it won't lock" period is time when you're not using the tyres to their max potential.

By upping the brake balance both front and rear i.e. 8-8 or something you can get it to lock the wheels without being super twitchy like racing brakes. BUT.... what about all the ABS 1 users? They don't ever see tyres locking... would they necessarily think to up the BB?