HELP! My Nissan R390GT is shot!

  • Thread starter Mr. White
  • 103 comments
  • 10,344 views
Mr. White
Jacks-I know what you mean about the bumpy straight aways...but it does this on the ring (which is very smooth). And it's not subtle...it's loud and constant. I don't want to have to save up another $4.5 mil...it takes me a while (Endurance races in b-spec). And what's to say that my next $4.5mil car does'nt start doing the same thing?

Sirlosealot-I did the chassis refresh...did'nt help.
Click to expand...

I've heard that if you add the rollcage then the chassis refresh it will not revert it to stock specs. The rollcage supposedly keeps it in that condition, so you need to add it after a refresh or on a new car. I don't know if it is true or not, but to be safe, do the refresh before adding the rollcage.
 
its the chassis refresh. i noticed that after the 24 hour nurburgring race, my R92CP would shake and nearly spin out at high speeds. went to refresh the chasis in the nissan tune shop, and it went right back to normal.
 
Can one of you with the problem please post your car's settings? That way I can see if you set it up incorrectly.

Also, did you guys read what the Roll Cage does when you add it to certain cars? Go read what it says. That could be your problem. I never use the roll cage, and I have no problems whatsoever.
 
Yep, chassis refresh fixed it for me. The car's back to normal, and I was able to win the Sarthe race in GT All Stars by a comfortable margin with it. So that tells me high-speed stability is OK. :)
 
Ok guys...I tried it again last night...totally started from scratch. Cold PS2 (lol) etc.

I did everything...chassis refresh, wash, oil change, put the settings at default...went to the test track...and it was fine. LMAO.

2 possible explanations...the most possible explanation I've seen in this thread is Ebiggs's.

Before, I did the rollcage THEN the refresh...this time I only did the refresh.

So...if anyone is having similar problems...do the refresh, and if you want to do the rollcage, do that after, even though it's not necessary IMO (I was desperate at the time).

Thanks for all the help guys. :dopey:
 
I have seen my CLK-GTR exhibit a "twist" or spring after a serious impact. At first i thought it was the result of differential tire wear because I was at the high speed oval, but the tires were pretty even (considering the circumstances) and the pull stayed consistent for many laps, but it was manageable and later I was able to tune or work it out, it is not present now. Perhaps you could try switching to the b or c settings group, also try switching to another suspension like stock then back. Additionally, I have literally buried my car in the wall (about halfway) and driven right through (you have to pass about 450mph to do so) with no ill effects.
 
I had a Sauber with next to nil on the odometer and the thing was possessed on the high-speed straights at Le Mans. The slightest correction would send it flying into the wall. I tried adjusting EVERYTHING to no avail. I have a Gameshark (yeah, boo hiss) so I could buy a new one for nothing and see if it was the car. Much to my surprise, the new one was a dream with minimal suspension adjustment. I am baffled to find a reason why two seemingly identical cars can, in reality, be much different. So Mr. White, find out how to get another car and hope that it's better than the one you have.
 
Mr. White
I did everything...chassis refresh, wash, oil change, put the settings at default...went to the test track...and it was fine. LMAO.
Click to expand...

In case you missed it ^^^ boys....the car is fine now. Handles OK, no high speed shake etc.

I think I just screwed up by doing the rollcage then the refresh...I went back and did the refresh only and it fixed it.

👍
 
Mr White, glad you got your car fixed.

As for the "chassis refresh" option in GT4 I am glad it's there. I think it's PDs way of having damage without having "damage". I think that damage is something that PD has wanted to have in the game since GT2 but from my understanding it's not something that all cars companies like to see in games that feature their cars.

Whether it's a bug, glitch, or undocumented feature I like it. It makes wall-riding in a series race a bad idea because you will have to live with the consequences for the remainder of the series. It's as close to damage as I want to see as long as there is AI that is totally unaware of your presence. It makes you responsible for how you drive and discourages bad habbits.

Now if I could just get my B-Spec driver to stop hitting the walls in Hong Kong...
 
bfifteenv
As for the "chassis refresh" option in GT4 I am glad it's there. I think it's PDs way of having damage without having "damage". I think that damage is something that PD has wanted to have in the game since GT2 but from my understanding it's not something that all cars companies like to see in games that feature their cars.

Whether it's a bug, glitch, or undocumented feature I like it. It makes wall-riding in a series race a bad idea because you will have to live with the consequences for the remainder of the series. It's as close to damage as I want to see as long as there is AI that is totally unaware of your presence. It makes you responsible for how you drive and discourages bad habbits.
Click to expand...

I agree...not too much interferance...but keeps you in check (unless you like to drive like a chimp and have the 50K to burn). :crazy:
 
Mr. White
I don't know if you can call it a glitch or a bug or a defect...but as you can see in this thread it's not just me so it might have actually been an intended feature.

I don't know...I plan on tinkering with it again tonight but I will most likely just save up for another car...unfortunately.
Click to expand...

I have the same problem with my CLK GTR 98. In B-Spec I have to tell the driver to "Slow Pace" when I know the coming corner is a tight one, then just b4 the straights I say Push Hard and then re adjust according to the state of the coming corner, it was a nightmare.

I am going to try to change the alloys tonight to see if that helps, that is the only thing I havent done yet.
 
Solid Lifters
Can one of you with the problem please post your car's settings? That way I can see if you set it up incorrectly.

Also, did you guys read what the Roll Cage does when you add it to certain cars? Go read what it says. That could be your problem. I never use the roll cage, and I have no problems whatsoever.
Click to expand...
Try these settings; springs 10.8 front /10.8 rear , ride hight 70 front /70 rear ,shock bound 4/4 ,shock rebound 8/8 ,camber 1.2 front ,1.0 rear ,toe rear only -2 ,stab 5/5 ,traction 8 ,downforce 63/88 ,I had the same problem with standard settings since then no problems .
 
Mr. White
To give you guys an idea of how crappy this car is now...(I'm trying to remember these figures off the top of my head)...it get's totally blown away in b-spec. I have roughly 4400 b-spec points...and it get's smoked by other similar cars (Bentley speed 8, Mazda 787B, Audi R8). On the Mt. Fuji race it's normally in 4-5th place after a few laps...the car just flies into the sandpit everytime after the straight away, and it spends alot of time in the dirt/grass. Does'nt matter if I have it on cruise, steady, fast or push...it's just all over the place.

It's not just me...the computer can't even control this thing.
Click to expand...
g i


This could be the dumbest reply posted to any forum ever, but oh well... I have some buddies who are 40% of the way through they game and they hadn't even figured this out until I suggested it last night. Have you tried changing the oil?

The oil changing in this game is totally confusing compared to GT3, because I actually had oil lights come on in that game, but it never seems to on this one. Also, when I go to GT Auto to change my oil, it always looks the same... never changes color. Still, I buy the stiffness upgrades, the refresher and I change my oil constantly... like, after every race series. I also wash it because (in theory) I guess it makes the car more aerodynamic.

Like I said... might be a stupid suggestion, but I've seen others overlook it. Although, I can't imagine a $4.5 mil car would totally freak because you haven't taken it through a car wash and changed the oil... I dunno.
 
Trini..
Try these settings; springs 10.8 front /10.8 rear , ride hight 70 front /70 rear ,shock bound 4/4 ,shock rebound 8/8 ,camber 1.2 front ,1.0 rear ,toe rear only -2 ,stab 5/5 ,traction 8 ,downforce 63/88 ,I had the same problem with standard settings since then no problems .
Click to expand...
One more thing , set the balance at 40 which will cause less understeer ,no ballast needed
 
Matthillica
g i


This could be the dumbest reply posted to any forum ever, but oh well... I have some buddies who are 40% of the way through they game and they hadn't even figured this out until I suggested it last night. Have you tried changing the oil?

The oil changing in this game is totally confusing compared to GT3, because I actually had oil lights come on in that game, but it never seems to on this one. Also, when I go to GT Auto to change my oil, it always looks the same... never changes color. Still, I buy the stiffness upgrades, the refresher and I change my oil constantly... like, after every race series. I also wash it because (in theory) I guess it makes the car more aerodynamic.

Like I said... might be a stupid suggestion, but I've seen others overlook it. Although, I can't imagine a $4.5 mil car would totally freak because you haven't taken it through a car wash and changed the oil... I dunno.
Click to expand...

pay attention:

Your oil light has not come on yet because it is not time to change the oil. The life span of the oil in GT3 was a lot shorter because it was based on regular motor oil which when dirty turns black(just like real life).

GT4 oil is yellow(synthetic). I can't tell you what color it gets when dirty because I've only had to change once (in a used car).

Synthetic oil lasts longer and can take more of a beating then regular oil. Maybe PD got it right.....change the oil every 3000-5000 miles (maybe less since we are racing these cars).

You have that many miles on a car yet?

and to Mr. White....sorry for the off topic post
 
jimihemmy
Synthetic oil lasts longer and can take more of a beating then regular oil. Maybe PD got it right.....change the oil every 3000-5000 miles (maybe less since we are racing these cars).

You have that many miles on a car yet?

and to Mr. White....sorry for the off topic post
Click to expand...

No problem Jimi.

EDIT: I totally misunderstood your post.

You are correct, the oil should be changed MORE often during racing conditions. Sorry...I'm slow today.
 
jimihemmy
pay attention:

Your oil light has not come on yet because it is not time to change the oil. The life span of the oil in GT3 was a lot shorter because it was based on regular motor oil which when dirty turns black(just like real life).

GT4 oil is yellow(synthetic). I can't tell you what color it gets when dirty because I've only had to change once (in a used car).

Synthetic oil lasts longer and can take more of a beating then regular oil. Maybe PD got it right.....change the oil every 3000-5000 miles (maybe less since we are racing these cars).

You have that many miles on a car yet?

and to Mr. White....sorry for the off topic post
Click to expand...
The oil turns dark grey/brown. Just go buy a used car with 20k or more and see for yourself. You can turn off the auto save option if you don't want to have to keep it.
 
jimihemmy
GT4 oil is yellow(synthetic). I can't tell you what color it gets when dirty because I've only had to change once (in a used car).
Click to expand...

Pretty sure its green (or greeny bluey black, something like that) when needing changed. Road cars need oil changing from as little as 3k miles but a race car will, I reckon, need it changed more frequently as they are constantly stressed. Heck some race car engines dont even last longer than that, specially rally cars.

Heheh, I really doubt that a dirty car would be less aerodynamic than a clean one. Unless of course PD have simulated the dirt as a carpet of 2inch flies! :)
 
jimihemmy
pay attention:

Your oil light has not come on yet because it is not time to change the oil. The life span of the oil in GT3 was a lot shorter because it was based on regular motor oil which when dirty turns black(just like real life).

GT4 oil is yellow(synthetic). I can't tell you what color it gets when dirty because I've only had to change once (in a used car).

Synthetic oil lasts longer and can take more of a beating then regular oil. Maybe PD got it right.....change the oil every 3000-5000 miles (maybe less since we are racing these cars).

You have that many miles on a car yet?

and to Mr. White....sorry for the off topic post
Click to expand...


Sorry guys... I'm an idiot. I thought i was at the bottom of page 4 when I was only at the bottom of page 2.
 
Maybe the stabilizers are very thick?and dont work fine with ride height and spring rates etc? (i didnt read the whole thread,maybe the problem is already fixed 👍 )
 
Trini..
Try these settings; springs 10.8 front /10.8 rear , ride hight 70 front /70 rear ,shock bound 4/4 ,shock rebound 8/8 ,camber 1.2 front ,1.0 rear ,toe rear only -2 ,stab 5/5 ,traction 8 ,downforce 63/88 ,I had the same problem with standard settings since then no problems .
Click to expand...
Actually, I don't have a problem with the car. The other guys do. I can race with it just fine, but it is a challange without the chassis refresh.

I'm responding to your post because the numbers you gave me are way off. So, here are the settings that help me control the bouncing. I guess it should be good enough with the chassis refresh, as well.

Springs: F 8.2 R 10.2
Ride Height: F 66 R 77
Shock Bound: F 2 R 4
Shock Rebound: F 4 R 8
Camber Angle: F 2.4 R 0.4
Toe Angle: F 0 R -1
Stabilzers: F 2 R 4
Downforce: F 44 R 66
Limited Slip: 20;40;50 (I'm a late braker)
 
Mr. White
To give you guys an idea of how crappy this car is now...(I'm trying to remember these figures off the top of my head)...it get's totally blown away in b-spec. I have roughly 4400 b-spec points...and it get's smoked by other similar cars (Bentley speed 8, Mazda 787B, Audi R8). On the Mt. Fuji race it's normally in 4-5th place after a few laps...the car just flies into the sandpit everytime after the straight away, and it spends alot of time in the dirt/grass. Does'nt matter if I have it on cruise, steady, fast or push...it's just all over the place.

It's not just me...the computer can't even control this thing.
Click to expand...

Well, this car really isn't good in GT4. It is underpowered. I used an 787B and blew it away by like 20+ laps (the 787B was stock). You're best bet is to get somethign like an R-8 or Minolta and use them instead. They haven' done anything to me yet. They ride as smooth as u can get.
 
MR.WHite I'm on the same boat as you....
this clitch ruined my Jaguar XJR-9 race car '88 on the Le Sarthe 2 endurance race... now I'm back doing the same endurance race doing it this time with a 4.5 million dollar Playstation Pescarolo.... on lap 300 and it seems it has ruined my Pescarolo as well....
I have the DFP
and the car is UNCONTROLLABLE
my laptimes from my b-spec driver have gone from a smooth 3:03 to a nasty 4 minutes plus and getting worse....
my fukkin goodness... with as many times that this game was delayed, couldnt they have fixed this ****???
 
and as for all the responses you've gotten on tips how to fix it..... to all those guys, its nice of you to respond but THIS IS A GLITCH IN THE GAME
I'm %100 certain of it...........
at first I thought well maybe it's Realism, MAYBE this is what would happen iin real life if u ran the car at max capacity after 12 hours at Le Mans (Le Sarthe)
but NOPEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
as far as real life the only thing I could compare this glitch too is having fresh tires in the front, and completely worn out tires in the back.....
BASICALLY riding with tires in the front and METAL WHEELS IN THE BACK......
 

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