Honda Fan Club - under new management

[Perfect Balance]

Does this work for the Prelude? I need an inspection and my CEL and ABS lights to mysteriously disappear so I can get my car inspected.

Which brings me to the following questions that I need answered for my new Prelude.

• What's the best brand spark plug wires and plugs to get. I preferred Bosch on my Nissans, would Bosch work well with the Prelude?
• If the ABS light is on is that just the ABS sensor(s) or it is because the brakes need to be replaced--or both?
• Anyone changed the Sunroof motor before? Do I HAVE to take it to the Honda dealer to get it done?
• Whats the best air intake to get for a Honda. I'm not necessarily looking for performance--but more in terms of gas mileage and efficiancy.

Thanks in advance for any help.

I'd say just replace the stock filter with a K&N one.

 

[JCE]

I thought as much, its $47.99 at AutoZone. Not bad.

 

[Keef]

1. Denso is a great company. There's not really a "best", I suppose. Bosch makes good everything, but companies like Denso and Champion specialize in the area.

2. The ABS light means the ABS has been disabled. Either by cranking the handbrake while in motion, or because one of the ABS sensors is broken or disconnected somehow. If it's the former, you need to turn the ignition off and then back on, and if it's the latter you should plug the sensor in, clean it, or replace it if it's busted.

The ABS light doesn't have anything to do with brake maintenance.

4. And air intake won't increase your gas mileage at all. If anything, it'll lessen it. The engine is receiving more air, and therefore uses more gas, at least under load. The stock intake is really best for mileage and fuel efficiency. AEM makes good, inexpensive intakes, but this will increase your engine's efficiency, and not fuel efficiency. There's also this nifty thing. There's a couple for different models. They create a low-pressure in their plenum so the engine can more easily suck air, and there's also a "reserve" when you first hit the gas, because it acts like the intake manifold plenum. I'm not too sure that part works though. That's what I heard.

EDIT: And yes, K&N makes the best filters in the business. I did this. For an even better gain and a little more sound (noticable but not intrusive) you can take off the intake resonator in front of the airbox. I did that too. I'm not sure what car you have though...

 

[JCE]

1. Denso is a great company. There's not really a "best", I suppose. Bosch makes good everything, but companies like Denso and Champion specialize in the area.

Denso is what my brother got for his MR2 and those suckers are awsome.

2. The ABS light means the ABS has been disabled. Either by cranking the handbrake while in motion, or because one of the ABS sensors is broken or disconnected somehow. If it's the former, you need to turn the ignition off and then back on, and if it's the latter you should plug the sensor in, clean it, or replace it if it's busted.

I guess I could just replace the sensors, they aren't that expensive.

4. And air intake won't increase your gas mileage at all. If anything, it'll lessen it. The engine is receiving more air, and therefore uses more gas, at least under load. The stock intake is really best for mileage and fuel efficiency. AEM makes good, inexpensive intakes, but this will increase your engine's efficiency, and not fuel efficiency. There's also this nifty thing. There's a couple for different models. They create a low-pressure in their plenum so the engine can more easily suck air, and there's also a "reserve" when you first hit the gas, because it acts like the intake manifold plenum. I'm not too sure that part works though. That's what I heard.

So, I guess my gas mileage must suffer a bit when I get the K&N. As long as it makes the engine run more efficiantly I could stand to lose a MPG or two.

EDIT: And yes, K&N makes the best filters in the business. I did this. For an even better gain and a little more sound (noticable but not intrusive) you can take off the intake resonator in front of the airbox. I did that too. I'm not sure what car you have though...

I bought this: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=97481

Thanks for the info.

 

[Keef]

You won't notice any mpg loss from an air intake, really. Maybe over a hundred miles of hard driving, but that's about it. It takes more than a bit of tuning to notice a loss in your weekly commute.



And what's this here? An old ass Integra beating a brand new, AWD, 240hp R32? Makes you wonder why anyone would buy the R32. You could have 3 very clean ITRs for its price. This shows me that the GTI and any comparable car is no match for the DC2. Or is it possible that the GTI is a better performer than the R32? Is that just a comlete oxymoron or what?



Also, if the DC2 ITR is this good...

Why the heck would car companies make worse sport compacts?

 

[JCE]

Hard driving isn't what I'm doing with this car. My goal is to drive this car as economically as possible to maintain reliability during my Camaro rebuild/restore.

 

[Keef]

...maintain reliability...

How many miles on it?

 

[JCE]

126,01x -- Baby mileage as far as I'm concerned.

 

[Keef]

126K?

















Run it as hard as you can. But I'm not sure if the odometer roller can take the punishment...

 

[toyomatt84]

Hard driving isn't what I'm doing with this car. My goal is to drive this car as economically as possible to maintain reliability during my Camaro rebuild/restore.

So you can afford gas for the Camaro, I see.

 

[JCE]

87 octane for the Camaro versus 93 octane for the Prelude. No contest. That and I average 17~18mpg or so in the Camaro which isn't bad. 👍

 

[toyomatt84]

87 octane for the Camaro versus 93 octane for the Prelude. No contest. That and I average 17~18mpg or so in the Camaro which isn't bad. 👍

For a thirsty V-8, no it isn't.

 

[Keef]

So anyway, I'm curious about the video I posted above. The DC2 is like 10 years old. The engine design is even older. The R32 is quite new, especially its fancy DSG transmission.

SO WHY DID IT LOSE????!!?!

Why would a car company build a car that can't beat a ten year old...Honda?

 

[Time_Attack]

Honda > everything else on earth ever

 

[toyomatt84]

So anyway, I'm curious about the video I posted above. The DC2 is like 10 years old. The engine design is even older. The R32 is quite new, especially its fancy DSG transmission.

SO WHY DID IT LOSE????!!?!

Why would a car company build a car that can't beat a ten year old...Honda?

And you haven't asked American Automotive Manufacturer's this yet?

 

[Pupik]

On topic, does anybody know the non-scan-tool method of resetting the service warning light on an EJ Civic?

If it's the "Maintenance Required" (or MAINT REQ'D) light, then:

1) Shut off the car
2) Hold down the trip odometer button.
3) Turn the key to ACC (don't start the engine).
4) Keep holding the odometer button for about 10-20 seconds. the light should disappear.

On the newer cars, they have a yellow "wrench" that is a little more complicated, and I mess it up sometimes (although the tech is supposed to reset it):

1) Shut off the car
2) Hold down the trip odometer button.
3) after 20-30 seconds, the odometer reading should flash "reset", then twist
the odometer reset button once.
4) Press and hold down the trip odometer button for another 30 seconds.

That should do it. But maybe not. I'm still new at this.

 

[Duke]

Does this work for the Prelude? I need an inspection and my CEL and ABS lights to mysteriously disappear so I can get my car inspected.

It doesn't matter if it works or not. When you get your car inspected, they will most likely hook a scan tool up. If it shows an ECU reset within the last 50 start cycles or so, you'll automatically fail.

The motor vehicle department folks aren't as stupid as they seem.

If it's the "Maintenance Required" (or MAINT REQ'D) light, then:

1) Shut off the car
2) Hold down the trip odometer button.
3) Turn the key to ACC (don't start the engine).
4) Keep holding the odometer button for about 10-20 seconds. the light should disappear.

On the newer cars, they have a yellow "wrench" that is a little more complicated, and I mess it up sometimes (although the tech is supposed to reset it):

1) Shut off the car
2) Hold down the trip odometer button.
3) after 20-30 seconds, the odometer reading should flash "reset", then twist
the odometer reset button once.
4) Press and hold down the trip odometer button for another 30 seconds.

That should do it. But maybe not. I'm still new at this.

Precisely what I was looking for. + rep to you. Thanks!

 

[JCE]

It doesn't matter if it works or not. When you get your car inspected, they will most likely hook a scan tool up. If it shows an ECU reset within the last 50 start cycles or so, you'll automatically fail.

The motor vehicle department folks aren't as stupid as they seem.

Well, what if I do it for 50 cycles? I can't afford to have the electrical system diagnosed to find the problem. Since the right rear quarter glass is shattered it set off the alarm, so the previous owner did some kind of weird thing to stop the alarm from going off but allow the car to run normally. I still don't quite understand what he did. I can't wait too long getting my inspection, it expired in July.

 

[toyomatt84]

If it's the "Maintenance Required" (or MAINT REQ'D) light, then:

1) Shut off the car
2) Hold down the trip odometer button.
3) Turn the key to ACC (don't start the engine).
4) Keep holding the odometer button for about 10-20 seconds. the light should disappear.

On the newer cars, they have a yellow "wrench" that is a little more complicated, and I mess it up sometimes (although the tech is supposed to reset it):

1) Shut off the car
2) Hold down the trip odometer button.
3) after 20-30 seconds, the odometer reading should flash "reset", then twist
the odometer reset button once.
4) Press and hold down the trip odometer button for another 30 seconds.

That should do it. But maybe not. I'm still new at this.

Your first tutorial is how to do it on 2001-2005 model Honda's. Your second is on 2006+ model Honda's.

There should be a tiny black button on the cluster near either the odometer or the MRL (Maintenance Required Light) itself. Press and hold for about 30 seconds to clear it.

Here's the tutorial for the model year car Duke asked for.

 

[Keef]

Looks like I'll be saving for another month or two in order to get a new clutch and flywheel. Both are made by Zoom. What's the weight of the stock flywheel on my engine? Zoom's weighs only 7 pounds, and I figure the stock steel unit is over 15.

 

[///M-Spec]

So anyway, I'm curious about the video I posted above. The DC2 is like 10 years old. The engine design is even older. The R32 is quite new, especially its fancy DSG transmission.

SO WHY DID IT LOSE????!!?!

R32 curb weight: 3,547 lbs.
DC2 ITR curb weight: 2,639 lbs.

The VW has a serious weight problem. Most VAG products do. On the track, weight is the enemy. The AWD system also has way more drivetrain loss vs. the FWDs. In normal traction situations (ie, dry), the R32 having AWD is a net sum loss, IMO. Given that and a staggering 900 lb. weight disadvantage, the R32 really didn't do too badly.

Why would a car company build a car that can't beat a ten year old...Honda?

Probably because VW didn't set out to build a pure track car, but a pricey halo model instead.


M

 

[toyomatt84]

Looks like I'll be saving for another month or two in order to get a new clutch and flywheel. Both are made by Zoom. What's the weight of the stock flywheel on my engine? Zoom's weighs only 7 pounds, and I figure the stock steel unit is over 15.

7lbs? That's way too light. You'll actually hate the torque loss you'll have. 11lbs is light enough for 99% of any Honda application.

 

[SRV2LOW4ME]

@Keef - I believe the stock flywheel is around 16-17 lbs, atleast it was for the Prelude. Toyomatt is right though, 7lbs is pretty light which will allow you to rev up to the redline pretty quick, but unfortuantly thats only going on flat serfaces and downhill. I can tell you from experience that going up hill will force you to drop an extra gear and fly up in the higher rpms. That doesn't sound bad for when you're riding the dragon, but when your doing your every day driving, you might find it annoying having to scream up hills at 6000 rpm.

 

[Perfect Balance]

@Keef - I believe the stock flywheel is around 16-17 lbs, atleast it was for the Prelude. Toyomatt is right though, 7lbs is pretty light which will allow you to rev up to the redline pretty quick, but unfortuantly thats only going on flat serfaces and downhill. I can tell you from experience that going up hill will force you to drop an extra gear and fly up in the higher rpms. That doesn't sound bad for when you're riding the dragon, but when your doing your every day driving, you might find it annoying having to scream up hills at 6000 rpm.

My friends Miata's flywheel weighed 8 lb. It had a bone stock engine and had no problem with torque, even while going over mountains, which is did at least a couple times a week without problem.

It's really not something to worry about, and the advantages greatly overcome the disadvantages, which frankly, I think there isn't any.

 

[Keef]

7lbs? That's way too light. You'll actually hate the torque loss you'll have. 11lbs is light enough for 99% of any Honda application.

I've done some imagining and I completely understand losing momentum, but not torque while accelerating. I'm going to try and find some simlilarly priced flywheels that are a bit heavier just so I have some options though. I'd like to understand it as much as possible before I go and make my car stupid.

My friends Miata's flywheel weighed 8 lb. It had a bone stock engine and had no problem with torque, even while going over mountains, which is did at least a couple times a week without problem.

It's really not something to worry about, and the advantages greatly overcome the disadvantages, which frankly, I think there isn't any.

And PB, the Miatas engine is vastly different than any B-series. My B16's torque peaks at an asinine 6800 rpm, and it only churns 111 lb-ft at that. Your buddy has the first-gen Miata which, while not making much more torque than my engine, makes it at a much lower rpm and with a way flatter curve.

I am planning mods, but just basic I/H/E. Do you guys think the gains would cancel out the torque loss from the flywheel?

Anyway, here's my thinking. If you get lighter wheels, the engine will be able to make the spin quicker no matter what. But, when you let off the gas, they'll also slow down sooner. They only lose momentum, but still accelerate quicker.

 

[Perfect Balance]

I've done some imagining and I completely understand losing momentum, but not torque while accelerating. I'm going to try and find some simlilarly priced flywheels that are a bit heavier just so I have some options though. I'd like to understand it as much as possible before I go and make my car stupid.





And PB, the Miatas engine is vastly different than any B-series. My B16's torque peaks at an asinine 6800 rpm, and it only churns 111 lb-ft at that. Your buddy has the first-gen Miata which, while not making much more torque than my engine, makes it at a much lower rpm and with a way flatter curve.

I am planning mods, but just basic I/H/E. Do you guys think the gains would cancel out the torque loss from the flywheel?

Anyway, here's my thinking. If you get lighter wheels, the engine will be able to make the spin quicker no matter what. But, when you let off the gas, they'll also slow down sooner. They only lose momentum, but still accelerate quicker.

The Miata doesn't pull whatsoever under 4000 rpms, stock flywheel or not, so the comparison isn't that off. I'm just making the point that even on an insanely weak car, the torque loss wasn't noticable, or at least something to complain about.

 

[toyomatt84]

My friends Miata's flywheel weighed 8 lb. It had a bone stock engine and had no problem with torque, even while going over mountains, which is did at least a couple times a week without problem.

It's really not something to worry about, and the advantages greatly overcome the disadvantages, which frankly, I think there isn't any.

I've had a 9lb flywheel, as well as an 11lb flywheel in a project EG that my friend built. I can tell you that you do lose torque up to about 3200 rpms in with the 9lb, when comparing to the 11lb.

 

[Perfect Balance]

I've had a 9lb flywheel, as well as an 11lb flywheel in a project EG that my friend built. I can tell you that you do lose torque up to about 3200 rpms in with the 9lb, when comparing to the 11lb.

You should only be at those kind of rpms while driving around normally on the street, a.k.a., when it doesn't matter.

When driving on a track, or just driving hard, you should never be at those kind of rpms, and if you are, learn how to downshift.

For other cars this rpm range is fine, but for a honda engine, which makes it's power up high, you should keep it there.

 

[toyomatt84]

You should only be at those kind of rpms while driving around normally on the street, a.k.a., when it doesn't matter.

When driving on a track, or just driving hard, you should never be at those kind of rpms, and if you are, learn how to downshift.

For other cars this rpm range is fine, but for a honda engine, which makes it's power up high, you should keep it there.

Considering he didn't gain anything from having a 2lb lighter flywheel, the 9lb flywheel was 100% loss. There was no benefit to having it that light.

PS. Some cars are designed for stronger acceleration at lower rpm's. *cough* like mine.

 

[JCE]

*cough*

*see 1990 Camaro RS V8