Hot Wheels and Matchbox Customizing Thread
- Thread starter CodeRedR51
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Cano
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Lol yes. I peeled it out off your stealth cars with my bare fingers
cheap-ass solution: put the car together, fill the "hole" between the rivvet post and chassis with sodium bicarbonate, then add a drop of Krazy glue, and see it harden incredibly fast into a very hard, sandeable/paintable substance.
FORGET WAITING! I was sick of pinching the car together when the chassis plate never sat up against the body after I dabbed in glue.
Cano
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That is also how you fill in holes. Like with my Alpine:
The thing in the hole is precisely that. Under it is a small piece of a Coke aluminum can. It was filed until as flush as possible, then filling primer was applied to absolutely disappear the hole, then paint.
In here you can see the small aluminum piece, already painted flat blak like the rest of the inner body:
No hole at all as you can see:
The thing in the hole is precisely that. Under it is a small piece of a Coke aluminum can. It was filed until as flush as possible, then filling primer was applied to absolutely disappear the hole, then paint.
In here you can see the small aluminum piece, already painted flat blak like the rest of the inner body:
No hole at all as you can see:
Cano
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hahah wtf
A lot of things, but some of them I can't recall if a situation like this doesn't happen. The sodium bicarbonate trick was learned from Ahmed. In fact he did that in the Alpine. I've tried it once again in a Kingstar Mercedes but that thing is long overdue for paint, so I haven't had the chancce to see if the hole did really disappear.
A lot of things, but some of them I can't recall if a situation like this doesn't happen. The sodium bicarbonate trick was learned from Ahmed. In fact he did that in the Alpine. I've tried it once again in a Kingstar Mercedes but that thing is long overdue for paint, so I haven't had the chancce to see if the hole did really disappear.
CodeRedR51
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I just use JB weld to fill holes, etc. I don't mind waiting for it to dry. In fact I'll be using it shortly...
Also, 2-56 screws > Glue.
Also, 2-56 screws > Glue.
AOS-
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I'd definitely use this from now on since you can apply thinner layers of super glue.
anyway, a text-based update on the Annihilator: The tampos proven to be a pain in the rear, I decided to touch up spots where the ink faded when I had the tampo drenched in water. Naturally, I'll have blotchy spots which I then wetsanded but now I got dull spots, so I masked off the graphics with sticky tacks and masking tape and figured a light mist of the car paint would get me a glossy finish, but I was wrong. Problem I have now is that the surface is textured
I decided to do several layers of clear, and then I would sand that down with the highest grit I got until it was completely smooth and then finish off with one more shot and maybe run some polishing compound on it. After that I still got to do something with the engine.
anyway, a text-based update on the Annihilator: The tampos proven to be a pain in the rear, I decided to touch up spots where the ink faded when I had the tampo drenched in water. Naturally, I'll have blotchy spots which I then wetsanded but now I got dull spots, so I masked off the graphics with sticky tacks and masking tape and figured a light mist of the car paint would get me a glossy finish, but I was wrong. Problem I have now is that the surface is textured
I decided to do several layers of clear, and then I would sand that down with the highest grit I got until it was completely smooth and then finish off with one more shot and maybe run some polishing compound on it. After that I still got to do something with the engine.
Cano
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- Cephiro
I just use JB weld to fill holes, etc. I don't mind waiting for it to dry. In fact I'll be using it shortly...
Also, 2-56 screws > Glue.
Ah, I've been told JB Weld works wonders! In fact, and now that I remembered
do you think you could pick up a tube of that for me as well? How much is it? I want to try it out, but guess what? No one in Mexico knows what the hell it is. Freaking country.Also, car closed in seconds without any extra work > having to drill three times to close the car. I'll pass on that.
Enjoy projects that get out of hand. This will happen a lot, trust me lol.
CodeRedR51
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Ah, I've been told JB Weld works wonders! In fact, and now that I remembered
Also, car closed in seconds without any extra work > having to drill three times to close the car. I'll pass on that.
I can see. Usually around $3 for the set? (2 tubes)
And honestly you make out drilling for the screws harder than it is. I use the small bit anyway even if I'm drilling a donor car as it helps center the bigger bit and keeps it from wandering. And I love the fact that I can re-open a car whenever I want to make changes or to hold it together while I am working on it so I can check the progress/wheel fitment.
Once the car is drilled and tapped for the screws, it's also closes in seconds to bad example there Cano! Plus, totally looks more professional.
Cano
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I can see. Usually around $3 for the set? (2 tubes)
And honestly you make out drilling for the screws harder than it is. I use the small bit anyway even if I'm drilling a donor car as it helps center the bigger bit and keeps it from wandering. And I love the fact that I can re-open a car whenever I want to make changes or to hold it together while I am working on it so I can check the progress/wheel fitment.
Plus, totally looks more professional.
Yeah pick one st up for me please, $3 is fine.
As for drilling, yeah I know it's not hard and all that but I'm lazyyyyyy. It of course looks more professional, but bleeeh
CodeRedR51
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You lazy? I've been meaning to start my next project for weeks. Cars still sitting on counter, not drilled...
(still need to clear coat my RX-7 and the Falcon)
(still need to clear coat my RX-7 and the Falcon)
CodeRedR51
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I got my last set (cheap brand) from Big Lots for less than $3. Already used it, works the same.
Cano
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I got my last set (cheap brand) from Big Lots for less than $3. Already used it, works the same.
Cheap is good, man. I want dat :0
And you should really see how many projects I have there just sitting there, unfinished, needing only detailing or something or other really stupid things to be done. Laaaazy.
Cano
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- Cephiro
The work is pretty good, but I really dislike the steelies on the Scirocco.
Anyway, I've uploaded a few pics of two wheelswaps I did... well I was gonna say recently but these have been done for a while. They in fact participated in the previous contest at the club meeting, where the theme was muscle cars, when I won with the blobbed-together Chaparral Camaro.
First this 1970 Hemi Cuda ragtop, which is, I think, from 1997. I bought it new back then because I didn't have another versions of this casting, even though I didn't like the wheels. The color is good, the inteior is good, I even like the tampos, but omg those wheels. So it was a prime candidate.
The small square piece you see is a cover for the hole where the top, in the version of thios car with a top, clicks in.
It was basically a wheelswap and detailing, altough I decided it needed bigger wheels in the rear and the interior piece had to be reworked a bit so it would roll freely. Wheels are Co-Molded 5s, by the way. You know how I love them.
Front detailing, I masked off the car to achieve the mostly straight silver section in the grille:
In the rear it was the same story, the blacked-out panel was masked and spray painted but the paint leaked, and it came out pretty sloppy lol. Add to that my terrible tailights and it demerits the car a lot ): I need to at least try to correct the sloppyness of the black panel, I know of a good method now:
A biiit of detailing to the interior and done we were.
Another car that also participated in the muscle car contest and that won second place regardless of how freaking basic it is, was this 1969 Charger. It started as a Mopar 5-pack refugee from the flea market that was almost new; reference pic for those that do not know/remember how the base car looked:
First it was just going to be a paint-delete job, so I started taking out the black scalops with acetone, but I realized that, to take them off completely I'd have to disassemble the car, or else I'd damage the wheels and the chrome of the bumpers. Black paint was also impossible to delete on the inside of the fenderwells:
So appart it came. But I had a little problem
...
So, having broken the chassis, the car just sat there for a long time, until one day, as I was scouring a friend's "junkyard", a stepped-on 1969 charger popped up and I remembered my poor Sub-lime car at home. So I grabbed it off him, along with all of the stuff in the pic:
With a new chassis in my hands, I detailed the interior a bit and added a rollbar I stol off the pink Matchbox Charger funny car that I also got from his junkyard (see pic), waste not want not:
In the meanwhile, the body was masked off and the hood and trunkline were painted flat black by Ahmed... and that was gonna be it. I wasn't even going to change the wheels on it since the car came with the ultra-wide 5 spokers and I love those. But then I knew about the contest theme and had to do a wheel swap to make it pop more. Sooo what else but Co-Molded 5s? I had to fabricate some spacers for it because the rear tires were not as wide as the stock ones, sadly:
And, as the base and body weren't "numbers matching" I had to close the car with epoxic because the rivvets and holes didn't match:
The end result looks like this; yes I know it has a big chip in there -remember it was a flea market rescue- and I know the chassis-body gap is enormous, but remember that the body and chassis were alien to one another, and besides the pic greatly maximizes it, it is way less dramatic in real life, as usual:
That's not sloppy paint but masking tape glue:
I really like the Charger emblem tampo en the B-pillar:
For the contest, I also printed out this HEMI license plate. The Cuda had one too but it fell off. And yes, dat body gap.
Oh well, I'm happy with the results. specially the charger as it was such a serendipituous save. Oh and the broken base will serve to bring back to life the pink Matchbox funny car. It's already being worked on, but it's a way complicated project. You'll see it eventually.
Anyway, I've uploaded a few pics of two wheelswaps I did... well I was gonna say recently but these have been done for a while. They in fact participated in the previous contest at the club meeting, where the theme was muscle cars, when I won with the blobbed-together Chaparral Camaro.
First this 1970 Hemi Cuda ragtop, which is, I think, from 1997. I bought it new back then because I didn't have another versions of this casting, even though I didn't like the wheels. The color is good, the inteior is good, I even like the tampos, but omg those wheels. So it was a prime candidate.
The small square piece you see is a cover for the hole where the top, in the version of thios car with a top, clicks in.
It was basically a wheelswap and detailing, altough I decided it needed bigger wheels in the rear and the interior piece had to be reworked a bit so it would roll freely. Wheels are Co-Molded 5s, by the way. You know how I love them.
Front detailing, I masked off the car to achieve the mostly straight silver section in the grille:
In the rear it was the same story, the blacked-out panel was masked and spray painted but the paint leaked, and it came out pretty sloppy lol. Add to that my terrible tailights and it demerits the car a lot ): I need to at least try to correct the sloppyness of the black panel, I know of a good method now:
A biiit of detailing to the interior and done we were.
Another car that also participated in the muscle car contest and that won second place regardless of how freaking basic it is, was this 1969 Charger. It started as a Mopar 5-pack refugee from the flea market that was almost new; reference pic for those that do not know/remember how the base car looked:
First it was just going to be a paint-delete job, so I started taking out the black scalops with acetone, but I realized that, to take them off completely I'd have to disassemble the car, or else I'd damage the wheels and the chrome of the bumpers. Black paint was also impossible to delete on the inside of the fenderwells:
So appart it came. But I had a little problem
... 
So, having broken the chassis, the car just sat there for a long time, until one day, as I was scouring a friend's "junkyard", a stepped-on 1969 charger popped up and I remembered my poor Sub-lime car at home. So I grabbed it off him, along with all of the stuff in the pic:
With a new chassis in my hands, I detailed the interior a bit and added a rollbar I stol off the pink Matchbox Charger funny car that I also got from his junkyard (see pic), waste not want not:
In the meanwhile, the body was masked off and the hood and trunkline were painted flat black by Ahmed... and that was gonna be it. I wasn't even going to change the wheels on it since the car came with the ultra-wide 5 spokers and I love those. But then I knew about the contest theme and had to do a wheel swap to make it pop more. Sooo what else but Co-Molded 5s? I had to fabricate some spacers for it because the rear tires were not as wide as the stock ones, sadly:
And, as the base and body weren't "numbers matching"
I had to close the car with epoxic because the rivvets and holes didn't match:
The end result looks like this; yes I know it has a big chip in there -remember it was a flea market rescue- and I know the chassis-body gap is enormous, but remember that the body and chassis were alien to one another, and besides the pic greatly maximizes it, it is way less dramatic in real life, as usual:
That's not sloppy paint but masking tape glue:
I really like the Charger emblem tampo en the B-pillar:
For the contest, I also printed out this HEMI license plate. The Cuda had one too but it fell off. And yes, dat body gap.
Oh well, I'm happy with the results. specially the charger as it was such a serendipituous save. Oh and the broken base will serve to bring back to life the pink Matchbox funny car. It's already being worked on, but it's a way complicated project. You'll see it eventually.
CodeRedR51
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Hey db - try to use the edit button as double posting is frowned upon around here.
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- csiApok
On the topic of masking tape, I've been reading up on modelling websites and a way to try prevent bleeding is to apply the masking tape and before applying the color apply a thin coat of clear on the edges. The clear coat should stop any paint you apply later on from bleeding.
Though I'm not too sure how this would work with spray cans since you get a thicker coat there, but with detailing jobs that you can do with enamels it should work great.
Though I'm not too sure how this would work with spray cans since you get a thicker coat there, but with detailing jobs that you can do with enamels it should work great.
- 5,624
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Okey sounds good!
I tend to be busy from time to time as well. One thing I was thinking is, you could use your Miata for the tutorial when it's finished.
CodeRedR51
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All you really need to know is how to hold it together. Everything else is just reverse order of disassembly.
- 5,624
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Yea that other tutorial you posted on drilling has some details about it. Im going to try and do as much as can for now.
Im going to try and do as much as can for now.
CodeRedR51
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And the Miata might take a while, so you don't want to wait for that.
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