AOS-
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Alright alright. How much did you get paid to say that?
Do you get a mirror finish? Probably not, right?
Hot Wheels and Matchbox Customizing Thread
- Thread starter CodeRedR51
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Alright alright. How much did you get paid to say that?
Do you get a mirror finish? Probably not, right?
Cano
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- Cephiro
That looks really good. What are those wheels on the G37?
In this thing's defense, I also use it and when it's really fresh, it looks quite bright. Not chrome-bright but it's really good, although it'll go dull if you so much as touch it.
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- OtakuTaikun
I was gonna use CoMolds, but they didnt fit :/
- 2,153
- Great White North
Hey guys. I am really desperate for some help. I thought I finished repainting some cars and I think I did everything right. I even washed the cars thoroughly but they will chip if I lightly scratch them with my fingernails. My coats are fairly thick though. I usually do 2-3 coats. If I do light coats I find there is still a lot of primer showing after the first coat. Could you guys tell me what I am doing wrong and what I should do to make them better?
CodeRedR51
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Still having primer show after the first light coat is ok. The 2nd, 3rd and even 4th light coats will fill that in and make it disappear. Remember you are dealing with small diecast cars, too thick of paint that fills in door lines, etc is too much. And make sure you are letting them dry thoroughly. Best thing to do is work on more than one project at a time, so when one is down (for paint drying, etc) you can do something else.
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- OtakuTaikun
How about paint-primer combos? I wanted to do a simple black, but i didnt know if that would turn out to be a cheap solution or a more expensive and time consuming error.
AOS-
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You'd think making a thicker coat will make it less prone to chipping. It's actually the opposite. A thin coat applied properly won't chip as easily as you think. A thick coat is easier to shift around because its mass (per area) is larger making it easier to break adhesion between paint, primer and surface material.
I would also take a look at what type of paint you're using. Some may not adhere to metal or smooth pore-less surfaces very well.
I would also take a look at what type of paint you're using. Some may not adhere to metal or smooth pore-less surfaces very well.
- 2,153
- Great White North
Okay. how many coats of primer and clearcoat should I need?
AOS-
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2 light coats should be enough. Clear coats need to be done super carefully because this will make or break your efforts. I strongly recommend against doing anything you'd call a "medium" coat. Do several light coats- at least 2, maybe up to 4.. enough coats that convince you you've covered every bit of the car.
Also, this is the best time to find a way to keep the car covered up while letting it dry. You don't want stuff sticking to it. I confine my work in a small box so that no air movement happens. Let your final coat air dry for several days, maybe up to a week for good measure.
Also, this is the best time to find a way to keep the car covered up while letting it dry. You don't want stuff sticking to it. I confine my work in a small box so that no air movement happens. Let your final coat air dry for several days, maybe up to a week for good measure.
Cano
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- Cephiro
Took you long enough. It's a pre-made black paintjob after all.
Haha, the car has been practically done now but for a couple of decals I want to put on the front fender alongside the racing number. But they're in Ahmed's decal box and I haven't been at his place in a while.
Oh that and the rear axle came loose a while aback and it's been like that ever since. Need to put it back.
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CodeRedR51
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Think I will finally finish my Ford Falcon V8 Supercar this weekend. Going to do a wheel swap on it first, finish the taillights, then weather pending get the clear coat on it finally.
CodeRedR51
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No idea. The red coloring of it might not work with whatever paint color you plan to use.
Alright guys, you got me. I googled "custom Hot Wheels" just out of curiosity, and man I am so glad i did! I've always been into automobiles or anything with wheels and a motor pretty much. You guys do some outstanding work. Inspired me to do some customs myself. Starting a '69 Torino Talladega for starts. 👍
So far
Sanding these is harder than I anticipated haha. Those little grooves and lines can be a pain. Its my first anyhow so I'm not to worried about it. I'll buy more tools and crap later. Just using what i have for now. More pics to come.
So far
Sanding these is harder than I anticipated haha. Those little grooves and lines can be a pain. Its my first anyhow so I'm not to worried about it. I'll buy more tools and crap later. Just using what i have for now. More pics to come.
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CodeRedR51
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Paint stripper is certainly easier and faster.
I'm not too sure what finish it'll be yet. I was thinking of even going satin again. I primed and painted it an off white with a semi gloss finish, just to see what it would look like. But I'm not sure how I feel about it at this point. You guys know if a spray can type clear works well? Like a Krylon or something of that sort?
- 2,153
- Great White North
I tried you guys' methods for painting, but I failed terribly. I found the primer didn't even really apply to the car at all, and I tried thin coats of paint, and after even 2-3 coats, I still saw tons of primer. Could the paint maybe have been to old or something? Also, could one of you guys post a picture of a car in a first coat of paint to see what mine should look like? I think it will help me a lot.
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AOS-
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Well, you're going to have to spray on coats of paint until you don't see anymore primer. While spray cans are spray cans, not every brand does their paint and nozzles the same way so there will be differences in procedures. The paint may be too old, but we can't tell... or at least I can't.
I like how we got a bunch of random people signing up on a video game forum to ask how to paint a toy car.
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I like how we got a bunch of random people signing up on a video game forum to ask how to paint a toy car.
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