Hot Wheels and Matchbox Customizing Thread

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Clean custom, wyvern. đź‘Ť

And Cano, let me know when you get that wheel shop up and running. I has money ready. :D

Here's one that just finished drying. It wasn't too beat up, but I just couldn't resist taking it apart and redoing it. I doubt I'm going to detail this one, I like how it looks in its current state. It's an M.C. Toys (Maisto) Mercedes 260 SEL.

Before.
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After.
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Dude, that's awesome. I really like how it looks. I have a Majorette Merc that's coming along the same lines but it wears gold BBSs and is low like hell. Pics when done.

EDIT: Also, I had never seen that Maisto casting, pretty good.

EDIT 2: I didn't see this:

And Cano, let me know when you get that wheel shop up and running. I has money ready. :D

I'll let you all know. It may take a while until we take all the shenanigans out of it, like making the holes for the axles, compile all the wheels we want to do and such and such, but onced they are ready you'll be the first to know.

EDIT 3: For some reason, I never saw this either:
And like you, I'm sure, those are just the crap cars.

Yup, I have an archive box full of trashed crap I want to restore, and I keep on adding more. It's horrible.
 
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Cano
Dude, that's awesome. I really like how it looks. I have a Majorette Merc that's coming along the same lines but it wears gold BBSs and is low like hell. Pics when done.

Glad you like it. I also thought about lowering it and putting chrome BBS's on. Lol. So I'm definitely looking forward to that Benz.

And I will be staying tuned in for the wheels.
 
Any tips on an airbrushable metallic silver (automotive style, not chrome) that'll work well on these cars? I'm dying for a model of my Mazda2 and naturally the Matchbox came in every color other than the one I want. I've never custom-ed one of these before but I've got a little drill press and an airbrush and compressor kicking around so I might give it a try.
 
Any tips on an airbrushable metallic silver (automotive style, not chrome) that'll work well on these cars? I'm dying for a model of my Mazda2 and naturally the Matchbox came in every color other than the one I want. I've never custom-ed one of these before but I've got a little drill press and an airbrush and compressor kicking around so I might give it a try.

For good quality stuff try Tamiya or Testors. Ask around in your hobby shop for the correct primer and paint type, as both manufacturers sell paints for plastic and for metal. Also ask how much you need to thin the paint before applying.
 
Takumi Fujiwara - go down to any car dealer spare parts department and check their colour charts of automotive touch-up paints - they usually come in both mini-spray cans and touch-up pens. Automotive sprays in small cans in hundreds of colours are also available usually at independent auto-parts supply stores. You will also find red-oxide as well as zinc primer if you need it, as well as steel-wool, water-sandpaper, and gelled strippers.
Have fun, but don't get too high on the fumes! ;)
:cheers:
Harry.
 
Thanks guys.

Tamiya is what I would've defaulted to, but touch-up paint is a cool idea, since it means I can actually get the real paint color from my car. I wonder if I could force a bunch of paint out of one of the pens and then thin it down so I could shoot it through my airbrush. I could use a pen anyway 'cause my car already has a bunch of chips despite only being three months old...
 
Paint pen won't work. Some auto paint stores can mix you up a spray can of your paint code. Thats how I painted the engine bay in my Miata.
 
Paint pen won't work.

Depends on what you are using it for. And how you go about using it. Milking it for ink is a mess, but it's great for small touch ups, or detailing, such as headlights, fenders, carbon-fiber look-alike areas, etc. Judicious choice of colour and 'Steady hand' is a must.
 
Depends on what you are using it for. And how you go about using it. Milking it for ink is a mess, but it's great for small touch ups, or detailing, such as headlights, fenders, carbon-fiber look-alike areas, etc. Judicious choice of colour and 'Steady hand' is a must.

I assumed he's talking about painting the whole car. Paint pen won't work.
 
Discussion in this thread is very useful...I appreciate that. Oh and Cano, you were correct, just like pringles...once you start (customizing) you just can't stop. I'm finding myself now buying cars just for their parts! Finding the stash of 100% hot wheels for a buck a piece at the used book store was just what I needed to reduce the guilt associated with drilling out what should be $4 cars.
 
Paint pen won't work. Some auto paint stores can mix you up a spray can of your paint code. Thats how I painted the engine bay in my Miata.

That's a lot of work (and probably expensive) for a HW though. I'll probably just get whatever Tamiya or Testors is close.

Besides, as I'm sure many of you have found, the same paint color looks really different depending on scale. The real paint code from my car is going to look several shades darker on a small model, and the metal flake in it is going to be way too coarse to look right. Might as well just get a nice light silver hobby paint and shoot it on the car.
 
Well i finished my first car , quite easy, my only problem was my paintbrush was 2 sizes to big =. so i used tooth pics for some parts lol , I don't know why so many cars look like the detailing was done with crayolas and its all crooked and what not.

custom! by frogmanlego, on Flickr
I plan to apply a clear coat
 
Oh man i'm so excited. Haha one of my goals is to be able to take these suckers apart... i was gonna try today, but alas, i can't find the dremel :(

After dissecting a few i hope to swap the shoes of my Tomica Legacy with that of a C-West Evo VIII 1/64th i have. :D instead of the lame Tomica 5 spokes on skinny tires, i'll have some Work Meisters with track semi-slicks!

The Evo was held together by screws, and upon inspection, the wheels do not turn independent upon each other (which i guess i learned from a INGS +1 GDB i purchased with a wheel error... another viable donor since it has Volk RE30s... well three RE30s and one TE37) so i'm probably gonna have to be gentle and remove each wheel from the axel first.

I'll get pics up soon because it's MUCH more epic than i can make it. Hopefully i can do that soon :)

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Ugh sorry for the horrid quality
 
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C-West Evo VIII 1/64th i have.

That looks pretty cool. Who makes it? I'd like to get my hands in one, and even better if they are screwed together, I could also try to reproduce those wheels (:


Anyway, it has been way too long since I last posted anything here. Some of you may remember I was restoring a Majorette Renault 4 Furgonette. It has been done for a while now but only recently I had the time to edit the pics. Long post ahead, because the process was pretty elaborate, even if the result is pretty straightforward.

Here is what I started with, I tell you, when I picked it up in the flea market I was almost disgusted to touch it.
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Torn appart; you can see how trashed the glass was from the inside, which made impossible for it to be reused. The headlamps, however, were cut off from the rest of the piece, cleaned and reused:
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Here it is all stripped. The front bumper in the chassis was broken, leaving only the license plate area; I filed away the remaining zamac and just let the license plate as if it's just installed in the front between two small bumperettes.
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Here is the custom glass made out of a bottle of Coke. This was installed using adhesive tape and a bit of glue. No side windows were included.
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The car had a steering wheel when I bought it but, stupidly, I lost it, so a new one was taken off a donor hot Wheels 65 Mustang, detailed and glued in. You can also see the headlamps in place in this picture.
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Here is the car fresh from the paint job, the color was custom mixed for Wyvern's Supra, but we had enough color left to paint another car and it was pretty close to the classic "Renault blue", so...
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A week later, the panel signage area was painted white, here it is all masked up:
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And here are the results.
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Why white? Because I custom-made some tampos for it. The original design was this one:
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But the waterdecal paper I bought did not handle well the printing and wasn't transparent either, sothis design was discarded in favor of this one, which used the white base better.
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So, with all the elements in place, it was time for detailing.
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The rear license plate was painted white and detailed. Mock up wheels.
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Inside the cabin, the surrounds of the interior were brush-painted matte black.
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The rear was also detailed and the bumper painted white, to match everything else.
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The final result of all this looks like this:
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Here are the waterdecal tampos. These things rule, I will for sure use them more in the future, the possibilities are endless.
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In the previous front picture it looks like it doesn't have a windshield, but it does...
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The wheels I finally chose for it are a set of Johnny Lightning white lines to give it a nice classic appearance. It wore several sets troughout the build.
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In this picture you can see the detailing at the front of the car, with the chrome grille surround and emblem, turn signals and license plate.
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The exhaust tip is a ballpen tip that was filed to fit with the Dremel.
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And finally, here is how I presented it when it participated in the club's custom contest. The other side of the card shows the rear view.
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I have another that's even worse; that one will be lowered to the ground and wear a street-rally theme, maybe even with a set of Hellas instead of bumper. I'm still planning what to do with it, but you'll see it here of course.
 
Not really a fan of those decals. They have a "lip" to them, makes it look like you printed it on paper and glued it to the car.
 
Where can I find information on how to do some of this stuff and how to tear apart some of these cars? Also, do you use regular model paints with this or something else?
 
Not really a fan of those decals. They have a "lip" to them, makes it look like you printed it on paper and glued it to the car.

Yes. The reason is that the waterdecal paper is white and is way thicker than the transparent paper. Another reason of why they stand out so much is that they do not have clear over them. In fact I still haven't cleared them, the car sits with the tampos bare. Once you apply some clear, the tampos integrate surprisingly well, thoug indeed not as well as if the paper was transparent :crazy:.
 
I love that color. I don't have the capacity for custom colors so I've been stuck looking for anything similar at the hobby store. How can modelers not have a clue what color Renault blue is? As to the car...I'm digging the tip on windshield creation. I sourced a beat up 924 for a buck to replace the one I depicted as ruined in my previous custom post. Can't wait to try this out! I'm missing a wind shield on a flat out 442 as well.
 
Majorette Renault 4 Furgonette

Absolutely love it (and thanks for the DM link, or I might have missed it!). The colour is perfect - definitely close to that classic Gordini blue.

Given me a bit of inspiration for my own Renault 4 now, which isn't dissimilar to yours (presume it was in a French 'La Poste' colour scheme originally? Nope, Service Renault or something) though in marginally better condition. Think my window glass is in better nick too. Not actually looked at it in a while so I'm intrigued now.

Edit: Just dug it out:

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In way better condition, indeed. Heck, yours has the bumper. That alone makes it worthy of a resto job. Also, you can polish that windshield. Have you seen those headlamp polishing kits they sell at auto stores? works WONDERFULLY.

Thanks everyone for the comments (:
 
Wow, soda bottle for windows... Genius! Now I'm going to look at everything differently. :lol: Turned out nice, Cano.

Morrac32
Where can I find information on how to do some of this stuff and how to tear apart some of these cars? Also, do you use regular model paints with this or something else?

I use any paint that's enamel. Usually Testors or Tamiya. Though, I've heard of many people on HWC forums using Krylon X-Metals and Rusto-leum paints. But, I haven't tried those yet so don't take my word for it.
 
Ok then if I use Testor's enamel how would I apply it?

If you are talking about the little bottles, those are used for detailing. Usually applied with tooth picks.

You want to use a regular spray paint for the body. Something that works with metal.
 
=( seems like you guys have trouble detailing, Cano did an amazing job but the detailing looks really sloppy. Just dip the very tip of the brush and start from there , if you dip any more it will leek.
 
=( seems like you guys have trouble detailing, Cano did an amazing job but the detailing looks really sloppy. Just dip the very tip of the brush and start from there , if you dip any more it will leek.

Fine detailing is usually best done with a tooth pick.
 
You did a great thing saving that poor Majorette Cano. :D
Though I also find the decals a bit odd. Especially since I have some custom made waterslide decals (slovenian licence plates for my 1/24 model kits) which are also white and they are as thin as the regular decals.
Also I think you did an excellent job on detailing the licence plates. They may look sloppy from the pictures, but I can appreciate how hard it can be detailing things like that.
And on the topic of detailing I encourage anyone to stop using tooth picks and grab some higher end brushes from a hobby store. They might be expensive, but trust me they are so much easier to use and you can use one for a long while if you just keep it clean. For detailing like this you would obviously need the smallest ones.
 
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