Hydraulic Brake Build [V2] (G27 Based)
- Thread starter pilmat
- 154 comments
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- 1,086
- St-Hyacinthe, QC
- GTP_pilmat
- pilmat
You got it
Dropped in on the local skate shop this morning. "Kewalski, give me options!":
The Khiros 73 and 79 I could only find in double barrel, I was hoping for some cones too... The grey set is called Bear and are nice 75 cone
- 1,086
- St-Hyacinthe, QC
- GTP_pilmat
- pilmat
Pedal configuration finalized:
Final Configuration (top) by pilmat, on Flickr
Final Configuration (side) by pilmat, on Flickr
Final Configuration (aft) by pilmat, on Flickr
There are washers behind the brake so I can easily adjust distance and pad tilt. The pressure sensor is not yet attached and will point down from where the -3 line screws into the slave cylinder. This will be my first elastomer set up, provided the pressure values make sense for the pedal travel.
All that is left is wiring, then bleeding and she's ready to go
Final Configuration (top) by pilmat, on Flickr
Final Configuration (side) by pilmat, on Flickr
Final Configuration (aft) by pilmat, on Flickr
There are washers behind the brake so I can easily adjust distance and pad tilt. The pressure sensor is not yet attached and will point down from where the -3 line screws into the slave cylinder. This will be my first elastomer set up, provided the pressure values make sense for the pedal travel.
All that is left is wiring, then bleeding and she's ready to go
This is looking great, a very neat package in the original casing there. What the deal with the master system reservoir though? I've seen elsewhere that is needs to be kept horizontal, will that cause you any issues with the pedal angle when you come to mount them on you're rig? Or will you be using a remote reservoir?
Waiting for a photo(s) to see how you're going to attach the pressure transducer.Pedal configuration finalized:
Final Configuration (top) by pilmat, on Flickr
Final Configuration (side) by pilmat, on Flickr
Final Configuration (aft) by pilmat, on Flickr
There are washers behind the brake so I can easily adjust distance and pad tilt. The pressure sensor is not yet attached and will point down from where the -3 line screws into the slave cylinder. This will be my first elastomer set up, provided the pressure values make sense for the pedal travel.
All that is left is wiring, then bleeding and she's ready to go
Can you fill up the reservoir with milk?
- 1,086
- St-Hyacinthe, QC
- GTP_pilmat
- pilmat
- 48
- salamanca
Hi, I find a good job, but it will come at a high price, the pressure transducers are expensive.
if you need elastomers can serve those for mountain bikes, there are different hardnesses.
An elastomer is better than a spring, is less rapid recovery, and duration if not compressed more than 50% higher than a steel spring.
if you need elastomers can serve those for mountain bikes, there are different hardnesses.
An elastomer is better than a spring, is less rapid recovery, and duration if not compressed more than 50% higher than a steel spring.
- 1,086
- St-Hyacinthe, QC
- GTP_pilmat
- pilmat
No, I haven't tried the Perfect Pedal. I was contemplating getting one when I started the Sim Brake Thoughts thread. That thread evolved into this project
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
Pilmat, what's your cost in parts right now? It seems like you have been able to keep the price down well due to the components. Nevermind discounts you might get 
I'm just curious, just estimate retail... It looks like you've done a great job of keeping things at a respectable cost...
I'm just curious, just estimate retail... It looks like you've done a great job of keeping things at a respectable cost...
- 1,086
- St-Hyacinthe, QC
- GTP_pilmat
- pilmat
Pilmat, what's your cost in parts right now? It seems like you have been able to keep the price down well due to the components. Nevermind discounts you might get
I hadn't priced it yet, here is a quick chop at it:
The two big expenses are the clutch kit (about $165) and the sensor (it cost me $165 with shipping and tax
). The DSD control board price is easy to find 
.The plumbing was free as I had a dead brake bias gauge set on my desk (one gauge was broken). That gave me the gauge itself, the two brass Ts, and the bleeder (the original one from the kit had been "borrowed"
). I wouldn't think everyone would need the gauge, so there is about $40 worth of plumbing total without it (that stuff gets expensive quickly!).The mounting clamp is $17 (nice aluminum clamp), but I would think two line clamps would do just as well. A couple of line clamps would be $5 with the hardware. Another $5 worth of nuts and bolts. Once I would know what elastomer package to baseline, that would probably be about $20-25 (although I have like $75 bucks worth on hand!).
The rest is my time, and there's a good bit in there (not counting prototyping). There is lots of grinding and fitting, plus the two steel plates to make (base plate and pedal pad base). I'm using the DSD pedal pads as I had them on hand, but the stock pads could easily be made to fit (idea is already in head).
I haven't started the wiring yet as I'm waiting on the control board, but that should be straight forward (more details to come
).So about $450 worth of material. Not bad considering that just the Tilton pedals I had originally looked into are around $420 with no masters or slave (and then you have to get the throttle and clutch to work
). And I will have 12 bit resolution that drops right into my rig 
- 1,086
- St-Hyacinthe, QC
- GTP_pilmat
- pilmat
After the bustle of last week, there are cobwebs building around here this week!
Not to worry, as soon as the postal service gets off there butts, things will zoom along again.
I did this on Sunday instead, custom fitting T500 pedals into one of our Human Racing GT Chassis:
Not hydraulic, but it could be 💡 The TM "realistic brake" mod has since been replaced with Mr. Basher's "even stiffer" brake mod.
Not to worry, as soon as the postal service gets off there butts, things will zoom along again.
I did this on Sunday instead, custom fitting T500 pedals into one of our Human Racing GT Chassis:
Not hydraulic, but it could be 💡 The TM "realistic brake" mod has since been replaced with Mr. Basher's "even stiffer" brake mod.
vasiliflame
(Banned)
- 1,321
- Cardiff
- no thanks
Don't pay attention to my post. Just trying to be funny. I failed "epically".
- 1,086
- St-Hyacinthe, QC
- GTP_pilmat
- pilmat
For the G27, I found the GTEye spring to be a night and day difference over stock. I could feel and modulate very well. Then I went with a Badnar cable (1024 steps of resolution over the standard 256), and found a small improvement at threshold braking. This is my favourite brake set up I have found.
The T500 brake is not one that I naturally felt comfortable with. The best improvement is MR.Basher's "even stiffer" brake mod, but I cannot find the threshold very easily. It is also 1024 step braking.
I have done a good bit of driving with 3 different CSE-E pedals (1024 steps on USB). I'm also not a load cell fan as, in my opinion, it doesn't represent real braking. The threshold is easier to find than the T500 pedals, but I find the G27 with the GTEye and 1024 steps to be much more "user friendly".
Several people have driven in my home rig (see sig link) which is the G27 pedals, and everyone has had no issues with braking. I just let them drive and they figure out the threshold by themselves. So it seems intuitive to others as well.
I'm curious about your opinion and experience with the 12-bit hydraulic brake you've made for the G27. I know it's the purpose of this thread and you're going to tell us anyway, me being curious or not. 
But after reading your thread on sim brake thoughts, I think it's not going to be much of a difference. As long as you can create a brake with a good modulation and which simulates the feeling of a real brake as good as possible, you don't need a hydraulic brake. Like Jet badger said, a hydraulic system is overrated. But, and there is always a but, it looks
.
You can't emulate a real brake pedal of a car without installing a brake booster.
But after reading your thread on sim brake thoughts, I think it's not going to be much of a difference. As long as you can create a brake with a good modulation and which simulates the feeling of a real brake as good as possible, you don't need a hydraulic brake. Like Jet badger said, a hydraulic system is overrated. But, and there is always a but, it looks
.You can't emulate a real brake pedal of a car without installing a brake booster.
- 1,086
- St-Hyacinthe, QC
- GTP_pilmat
- pilmat
I think you mean a road car. I'm not interested in emulating a road car
One of the first things you do when converting a road car for racing is rove the booster (if allowed)!One of the goals is to get the best type of feel from the brake pedal that will you allow to maximize braking in a simulator. Directly replicating a real race car pedal feel might not get the best results. Control harmony is also a critical factor. This is where the weight, force required to operate, friction and hysteresis of ALL the pilot controls are in harmony, in other words the whell, pedals and shifters are calibrated to have a sympathetic feel, where none is too far from the group. This is where muscle memory can really find it's stride as your body reacts to all the controls in a similar manor and everything "flows" better. I hope that makes sense
Here is a really good picture. It shows two things I have engineered: a NASCAR and a regional jet (and I have worked on the very ones in the photo!). It is amazing the similarity in needing to balance the control harmony to get the most out of both products!
- 227
- Montreal
- SUPERNOVADAVE
- SUPERNOVADAVE
I think you mean a road car. I'm not interested in emulating a road car
One of the goals is to get the best type of feel from the brake pedal that will you allow to maximize braking in a simulator. Directly replicating a real race car pedal feel might not get the best results. Control harmony is also a critical factor. This is where the weight, force required to operate, friction and hysteresis of ALL the pilot controls are in harmony, in other words the whell, pedals and shifters are calibrated to have a sympathetic feel, where none is too far from the group. This is where muscle memory can really find it's stride as your body reacts to all the controls in a similar manor and everything "flows" better. I hope that makes sense
Here is a really good picture. It shows two things I have engineered: a NASCAR and a regional jet (and I have worked on the very ones in the photo!). It is amazing the similarity in needing to balance the control harmony to get the most out of both products!
Go Isabelle Go. lol
