I may have killed my G27.....won't stop spinning during calibration

[BrandonW77]

That needs a small bit of glue too to secure it in place, but it's a lasting solution that will not crack when the motor drive shaft expands. So if all is well, there won't be any issues after.

I put a dab of glue on there while I was inside but everything was still assembled. Maybe the glue dripped onto something and caused it to seize.

 

[LogiForce]

I put a dab of glue on there while I was inside but everything was still assembled. Maybe the glue dripped onto something and caused it to seize.

Or it could have gone into one of those holes in the code wheel, which should let light through. However, if glue is in one of those holes than not enough light will shine through, causing some weird effects.

So the code wheel should look perfect, like the brass one, where you can look through each holes easily and without a crack in there as posted above.

So only one way to find out... another open heart surgery

 

[BrandonW77]

Well, I finally dove back in and found the problem, just as several of you stated. Can this be saved?

 

[wajdi1977]

No, it's too damaged, especially those small fissure that are essential for the calibration!

Ps: what is that white color on the wheel?

 

[BrandonW77]

No, it's too damaged, especially those small fissure that are essential for the calibration!

It's glue from where I tried to glue the post to the wheel, guess it dripped. Can I get a new one of these little wheels?

Also, I guess I nipped off a tiny wire that runs along the backside of the actual wheel, I presume it controls one of the buttons on that side. There are several multi-colored wires that plug into the bottom of the green circuit board and the white one has become disconnected. Is this going to be terminal or am I just going to lose the use of one of the buttons?

 

[wajdi1977]

http://cmlaserservice.com/page_g25_g27_optical_encoder_wheel.html
They are very good and honest! they shipped me the first time and it was broken, then they shipped me a new one!

 

[wajdi1977]

It's glue from where I tried to glue the post to the wheel, guess it dripped. Can I get a new one of these little wheels?

Also, I guess I nipped off a tiny wire that runs along the backside of the actual wheel, I presume it controls one of the buttons on that side. There are several multi-colored wires that plug into the bottom of the green circuit board and the white one has become disconnected. Is this going to be terminal or am I just going to lose the use of one of the buttons?

Can you make a photo of the nipped wire and where does it plug into?

 

[BrandonW77]

This is one of the wire bundles that comes out of the back of actual steering wheel and connects to the little green circuit board that the paddle shifters hit.

 

[wajdi1977]

Ok! this isn't a big problem! you can take it to an electrician and he will fix this disconnected wire in 1 min!

 

[dsgerbc]

.

 

[dsgerbc]

Ok! this isn't a big problem! you can take it to an electrician and he will fix this disconnected wire in 1 min!

Those things look large enough to disassemble with regular tools. Typically there's a knob on the white connector that needs to be raised before pulling terminals (might not be present at all on this one), after that one needs to jam something thin and flat just below/above the openings for pins of the male side of the connector and pull out the terminal. After that reattaching the wire should be easy. I'd probably solder it there, but might not be necessary.

On the optical encoder for $40, I'd just buy some broken g27 off ebay (first asking about the nature of the problem to make sure it's not the same thing) for like $10-$20 more and have a lot of other spare parts.

 

[BrandonW77]

On the optical encoder for $40, I'd just buy some broken g27 off ebay (first asking about the nature of the problem to make sure it's not the same thing) for like $10-$20 more and have a lot of other spare parts.

But then it would just be a matter of time before the encoder broke again and I'd have to repeat this whole process. It takes a lot of unscrewing to get to this part and I'd rather not have to go through it again. The metal encoder should ensure that I (likely) will never have to crack the G27 open again.

 

[wajdi1977]

But then it would just be a matter of time before the encoder broke again and I'd have to repeat this whole process. It takes a lot of unscrewing to get to this part and I'd rather not have to go through it again. The metal encoder should ensure that I (likely) will never have to crack the G27 open again.

👍

 

[oohhh yeah]

Hi guys,

My g27 is perfect except it is SLIGHTLY off to the left a TINY wee bit always. It is hardly noticeable but you can tell it is not 100% centered if you look closely/turn the wheel and feel the deadzone.

I think it has been like that as far as I can remember; my g27 is 2.5 years old now.

I'm still not really sure what exactly is the cause of OP's problem as I'm way too tired to process all the posts

1) Should I crack it open and use hot glue gun on the sensor? Because my wheel is perfect except for the slight deviation....would it be necessary? Or can I just leave it like this because it's fine; I won't wreck the optical sensor by leaving it slightly off center? I'm worried about screwing up the gluing like OP did (was the glue covering the holes the issue....or is his odd problem due to something else? Sorry...it is super late right now and my head is way too slow haha)

2) Kind of ties in to #1....what is the process for gluing? Or do you just tighten the screws? You just have to make sure the glue doesn't get onto the optical wheel's holes like in OP's picture on the second page right? So a tiny dab of glue dabbed onto the inside ring of the plastic wheel sensor?

3) If I should crack it open....I don't have hot glue so is there any other type of glue that works or does only hot glue work?

Thank you

 

[eKretz]

Super glue would probably work, but if your wheel position doesn't ever change (it's always off the exact same amount) it probably has nothing to do with your optical wheel slipping.

 

[oohhh yeah]

Super glue would probably work, but if your wheel position doesn't ever change (it's always off the exact same amount) it probably has nothing to do with your optical wheel slipping.

Yeah there's no slip....so what is the culprit of my issue then?

 

[eKretz]

I believe there should be something that tells your wheel where either the end stop is or where center is. The optical wheel is most likely just telling it how far you've turned it from that point. You need to figure out what that mechanism is and do a little fine adjustment of the location if you want to get it perfectly centered. If I knew someone with a G27 I would try to pinpoint it for you but I don't know anybody local with one. Alternatively you could check if there's any slop in the wheel mounting bolts and try to loosen them and tweak the rotation a tiny bit to get it centered that way if it's just barely off.

 

[BrandonW77]

Hi guys,

My g27 is perfect except it is SLIGHTLY off to the left a TINY wee bit always. It is hardly noticeable but you can tell it is not 100% centered if you look closely/turn the wheel and feel the deadzone.

I think it has been like that as far as I can remember; my g27 is 2.5 years old now.

I'm still not really sure what exactly is the cause of OP's problem as I'm way too tired to process all the posts

1) Should I crack it open and use hot glue gun on the sensor? Because my wheel is perfect except for the slight deviation....would it be necessary? Or can I just leave it like this because it's fine; I won't wreck the optical sensor by leaving it slightly off center? I'm worried about screwing up the gluing like OP did (was the glue covering the holes the issue....or is his odd problem due to something else? Sorry...it is super late right now and my head is way too slow haha)

2) Kind of ties in to #1....what is the process for gluing? Or do you just tighten the screws? You just have to make sure the glue doesn't get onto the optical wheel's holes like in OP's picture on the second page right? So a tiny dab of glue dabbed onto the inside ring of the plastic wheel sensor?

3) If I should crack it open....I don't have hot glue so is there any other type of glue that works or does only hot glue work?

Thank you

Unless it's causing an issue I say don't mess with it. I thought cracking the G27 open would be a simple process but it certainly was not, lots and lots of tiny wires and connectors and I managed to damage something while I was in there. So if you can live with it how it is and it doesn't ever get any worse, leave it alone. If you have to hold the wheel at a 45 degree angle just to go straight, then you have a problem, but it doesn't sound like you're at that point.


BTW, I wasn't able to salvage my G27 and ended up getting a Fanatec 911 GT3 RS to replace it. I'm much happier with that Fanatec than I ever was with the G27 and the CSR Elite pedals with load cell are fantastic! 👍

 

[oohhh yeah]

Unless it's causing an issue I say don't mess with it. I thought cracking the G27 open would be a simple process but it certainly was not, lots and lots of tiny wires and connectors and I managed to damage something while I was in there. So if you can live with it how it is and it doesn't ever get any worse, leave it alone. If you have to hold the wheel at a 45 degree angle just to go straight, then you have a problem, but it doesn't sound like you're at that point.


BTW, I wasn't able to salvage my G27 and ended up getting a Fanatec 911 GT3 RS to replace it. I'm much happier with that Fanatec than I ever was with the G27 and the CSR Elite pedals with load cell are fantastic! 👍

Thanks

I'm sure if I just leave it....it will be fine. After all, it has been fine for 2.5 years.

I reread your thread but I'm having a little trouble with the continuation.

-You have problem with wheel position slipping under aggressive turning
-You crack it open and attempt to tighten screw because you read it online
-you dislodge the black part (unknown to you at the time) and the g27 has problem calibrating
-you post thread
-you put black piece back that had become dislodged
-new calibration problem
-you find out your "c" is dislodged
-you fix the "c" and put glue on the position sensor
-you screw up the gluing and get glue on the holes

So basically you got glue on the holes and now need a new sensor.....

Is that correct so far?

This is where you lose me

Then what? You got the GT3 RS...but did you ever get the brass encoder?

 

[BrandonW77]

Thanks

I'm sure if I just leave it....it will be fine. After all, it has been fine for 2.5 years.

I reread your thread but I'm having a little trouble with the continuation.

-You have problem with wheel position slipping under aggressive turning
-You crack it open and attempt to tighten screw because you read it online
-you dislodge the black part (unknown to you at the time) and the g27 has problem calibrating
-you post thread
-you put black piece back that had become dislodged
-new calibration problem
-you find out your "c" is dislodged
-you fix the "c" and put glue on the position sensor
-you screw up the gluing and get glue on the holes

So basically you got glue on the holes and now need a new sensor.....

Is that correct so far?

This is where you lose me

Then what? You got the GT3 RS...but did you ever get the brass encoder?

Not quite. I put the brass encoder in but when I put the wheel back together and turned it on it would only move about 5 degrees (in one direction) during its normal start-up calibration instead of doing full rotations in both directions. The game would not respond to any inputs from the wheel or its buttons so I must have damaged a circuit board or wire when I was in there. There are so many little wires and connectors and circuit boards in there and it's very fiddly to get to it all, I was concerned the whole time that I would damage something and my best guess is that I did. I still have the G27 and it could probably be salvaged by someone who knows what they're doing but it's such a process just getting to the guts of the wheel, I didn't want to go through it again so I just bought a new wheel. I'm glad I did too, Fanatec has so many fun goodies and if one component dies or breaks I can just buy that instead of having to re-buy the whole kit and caboodle. IMO everything about the Fanatec is better.....except the mounting options.

 

[oohhh yeah]

Unless it's causing an issue I say don't mess with it. I thought cracking the G27 open would be a simple process but it certainly was not, lots and lots of tiny wires and connectors and I managed to damage something while I was in there. So if you can live with it how it is and it doesn't ever get any worse, leave it alone. If you have to hold the wheel at a 45 degree angle just to go straight, then you have a problem, but it doesn't sound like you're at that point.


BTW, I wasn't able to salvage my G27 and ended up getting a Fanatec 911 GT3 RS to replace it. I'm much happier with that Fanatec than I ever was with the G27 and the CSR Elite pedals with load cell are fantastic! 👍

Not quite. I put the brass encoder in but when I put the wheel back together and turned it on it would only move about 5 degrees (in one direction) during its normal start-up calibration instead of doing full rotations in both directions. The game would not respond to any inputs from the wheel or its buttons so I must have damaged a circuit board or wire when I was in there. There are so many little wires and connectors and circuit boards in there and it's very fiddly to get to it all, I was concerned the whole time that I would damage something and my best guess is that I did. I still have the G27 and it could probably be salvaged by someone who knows what they're doing but it's such a process just getting to the guts of the wheel, I didn't want to go through it again so I just bought a new wheel. I'm glad I did too, Fanatec has so many fun goodies and if one component dies or breaks I can just buy that instead of having to re-buy the whole kit and caboodle. IMO everything about the Fanatec is better.....except the mounting options.

That's excellent

I guess I am going to err on the side of caution and not open anything

I mean...I heard from multiple people that it could break the optical wheel if it is slightly off and left untreated...and mine is the early g27 (green box).

But if it's been working for 2.5 years holding up to the abuse I give it....I guess I have a fine specimen