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- the_greeze
If your still counting you havent spent enough.![]()
Ain't that the truth! lol
If your still counting you havent spent enough.![]()
Well, I'd whole-heartly recommend a motion setup to anyone if it's within their budget. It adds soooo much 👍
I haven't seen Mike Perry's rig. Could you post a link please?Be very interested to see it...
Might I ask where you found those illuminated buttons? They're very Tron.
Oh, and this is another one of those threads (like museumsteve's) where I instantly regret being curious. I need to get the lead out and make my own look presentable, not that I think it'll ever match welded and powdercoated steel!
http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/1868620.page His is not a motion cockpit. He oval races and I think his dash is out of a real late model, although all of the gauges don't work properly until symproject gets their new rev burner software (Sim Dash?) going which is rumored anytime now.
Great update, exudes class and accomplishes a very professional look.
As I have previously mentioned your execution and attention to detail are to my own personal desire.
You lot are trying to brainwash me into motion, lol.
They're very good apart from the red ones which seem to have a high failure rate (or I'm incredibly unlucky!).
Looks like he got a few people fooled in that thread too! lol
Im not vastly impressed with the D Speare box I got delivered yesterday. Nice looking but the plastic box and empty hollow sound might of been better with a metal box.
Forgot to ask would you ever consider the rear traction loss add-on to your sim?
MayamanThat rear traction loss module would be the icing on the cake.
Mr LatteHave you considered a tach, I got one of those 11k "Type R" models for about £30 ish on ebay. Think one of these would give your cockpit that little bit more "wowness"
greeze if you drive the Lotus79 or some of the other high revving cars make sure you get an 11,000 RPM tach. Also, when you connect it to the rev burner make sure you set up the tach in four cylinder mode and that will work with any size cylinder engine in iRacing.
Also be cautious of some of those cheap tachs, some of them are so far out of calibration.
Besides the OP hating welding -can't see why, oh that's my bias since one of my degrees is in it- do you guys usually stick with tack welds or do you actually run full beads. Also what thickness mild steel are you using. I have a massive idea of what I want to do for my rig but need to see what others find best and build off of it.
My rig is fully welded and the the steel I use(d) is 25mm x 25mm x 3mm box-section. There is a fair amount of 6mm plate in the build to, but I tend to used bolted connections wherever possible. 👍
The primary framework (the seat / steering wheel section) I fabricated myself in a friends garage but I've currently lost this facility (his beloved Series One Landrover is tucked-up for the winter!) so I have had all my other fabrications handled by a local engineering company. I've got a cash-deal going with them so it's not too painful on the wallet!![]()
I also plan to TIG weld it so I get a much smoother finish then I would with an initial MIG weld and grind.
Also what are the benefits to having the button box? At the moment I'd rather go for a full function F1 sim wheel that I can swap in and out for a regular wheel.
Another question (last one for now), is there any system out there that makes wheel shake. The issue I have with the accuater systems/motion systems is that the steering wheel doesn't move like in real world settings. Is there a system that I can get, or would I have to engineer it (another degree I'm working on)?
Good choice. There's not much worse than grinding up welds to a nice profile!
If F1 is your thing then you'll probably be okay with an F1-style wheel. I race tin-tops mainly so having those button-boxes is much better than fiddling with a computer keyboard.
Well I love to race V8 Supercars, Rolex, LMP/GT, Nascars and WTCC it's just I love the F1 seat position but don't want to run two seperate seats... So with that said, would a simple button system be ideal?
Yeah sort of, FFB is great and all but a bit more movement and vibration that one would get from actually racing. Or do you think that FFB is enough, I've never used the accuator system for long times, just short test since I don't own one. So do you feel it is that realistic or better yet how realistic is it for you, does it help give your body an immersive feel?
Yeah, don't see why notGo with the wheel, you can always add a button box further down the line.
Right, gotcha 👍 I have added tactile feedback to my wheel mounting plate to pass on engine vibration (I also included the gearstick too). There're various threads on here regarding tactile (do a quick search of the forums) to give you an idea of what's possible. Our resident tactile expert Mr. Latte would be worth PM'ing if you want good advice
So, on the wheel there is the usual force feedback and the added vibration from the tactile transducer. It feels absolutely superb and I'd highly recommend you incorporate multi-channel tactile into your build 👍
The actuator system is brilliant! Really, really good (hard to put into words) and adds a massive amount of immersion and I find it very realistic. Again, I highly recommend it...
Hope all this is of help?
Trust me you're helping me out immensely and I'm putting together a grocery list to get the project off the ground.
Good stuff
Start a thread detailing your progress; plenty on here would be interested in seeing a build from the 'ground up'. Good luck 👍
If I can help anymore, just let me know...![]()