Initial Torque: What do you do?

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Lol where do you get any of that from? Nobody said accel strength as far as I know.

Im pretty sure the AS changes how much wheel spin difference is allowed while under lock, as well as how much one has to spin before the other locks.

Like I said the game works weird with spinning the outside tire because that should never happen. But yes setting it to 60 would cause the inside wheel to spin 40% faster only and since the outside wheel is still going fairly fast and has weight on it it burns out and the inside one does not.
That is why Im leaning towards not really setting it above 40 so it will lock but the inside wheel will spin 50% faster then before (set at 60) helping cornering as well as making drifting very easy.


And actually increasing IT will make your lsd engage alot harder.
 
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Reviving this thread because I'm starting to think I'm doing something wrong or maybe something is wrong with my connection or lag or something. I've adopted many online tunes from the big tuners and for the most part, they dramatically improve the handling of every car. But one thing I can't figure out is how they make the LSD settings work for them. Some might laugh at this but, for most cars under 500 hp I set mine at 5/5/5 and find I have fantastic car control and never spin unless I hit a curb or do something dumb. I can put the power down just about anywhere on any track, within reason of course, without any danger of any kind of snapping of the rear end. I see guys in front of me, on the rare occasions when someone is in front of me...lol...and I see them spinning their rear wheels out of tight corners all the time, fishtailing etc. If I'm running in second I just wait a lap or two for the bobble and slide on by.

For a long time I adopted the tuner recommendations of LSD seetings but in higher powered cars, I kept spinning out, had a hard time turning in etc. Once I switched to the 5/5/5 it was dramatically easier. This is a recent development so I haven't tested it on every car. In the higher powered cars like a Ford GT or an Enzo or the Caddy Cien, I turn up the Accel a bit and if it's twitchy on corner entry I'll up that as well, but so far, if I go past anything like 5/10/10 I get dramatic outside tire wheelspin on exit in some corners and can't turn in quite as well either.

I never see anyone online advocating such LSD settings which is why I'm beginning to think I'm either doing something wrong, or missing some advantage with my LSD settings even though I win consistently online, at all power levels in dozens of different cars. If everyone is advocating higher LSD settings there must be a reason why.

Does anyone have the same experience as me? Anyone know why there is such a huge difference in the settings I use and some of the recommended settings I see?
 
I've noticed that source of the outside wheel spinning is multipronged. The setting of the deceleration sensitivity is important in this regard because it controls the lock state of the wheels in cornering so that a quick application of throttle from corner exit without straightening the car can result in outside wheelspin and snap oversteer. If the deceleration sensitivity is too low then the car will oversteer and the rear end slides about during cornering with little or no throttle applied; if the deceleration sensitivity is too high then the car will understeer and the rear wheels spin under forced power oversteer. Finding the right ratio of initial to deceleration is as important as finding the right ratio of initial to acceleration for controlled corner exit.
 
I usually run really low values to, but not all 5s. If it works for you then that's all that really matters isn't it? Just mess around with your values until you find something that works for you can you'll be alright.
 
Some might laugh at this but, for most cars under 500 hp I set mine at 5/5/5 and find I have fantastic car control and never spin unless I hit a curb or do something dumb.
Johnny, I've noticed that lower settings work well for me...except when it comes to comfort soft tires. I was running the 80's Seasonal Time Trial the other night in my '86 MR2 and I ended up boosting the accel value to 50 so I could stop cooking the rear tires. It made it a little easier to apply power.

So I'm curious, what tires do you use 5/5/5 on?
 
Lower is in general better.

Ive been playing GT4 recently and the descriptions are so much better.

IT. Adjusts how responsive the LSD is, as it is always active while cornering but can also limit slip somewhat at all times. Increasing results in more understeer but a more responsive LSD.

AS. Adjusts the sensitivity while accelerating. If you get inside tire spin exiting a corner then you are should raise this, as it affects how much lock there is and the closer to lock you go the more traction will be retained. Going too high also causes understeer.


such better descriptions, they arent exact but thats pretty much what it says.


Ive been running 10/60/10
 
At A-32, I still haven't the slightest idea on how to say: This is what I want my LSD to be for This track, using This car. (or any tune for that matter)

I hope 1.09 ~ 1.10 can allow us to save slots for different tunes, and load up a different tune when we decide to bring our car to a stop. I'm too lazy to be a professor, I'm too busy enjoying driving what is given to me. But I'd love to be able to set values on the whim, and improve my results accordingly. Laziness on my part perhaps.

Perhaps, since LSD is an option, as is any tune for that matter, it all boils down to driver input, does it not? I care more about my throttle control and my input handling at the wheel, that what an LSD or ASM would do to "sense" my corrective inputs. There is nothing I'd hate more, than to drive a car, with incorrect tune settings, to make me dislike the handling and lose because I have to overcorrect or deal with Laggy acceleration or turn radius, as I have discovered by using some dreary FGT settings found on the GT5 tune wiki.

fine, I'm a noob.
 
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Johnny, I've noticed that lower settings work well for me...except when it comes to comfort soft tires. I was running the 80's Seasonal Time Trial the other night in my '86 MR2 and I ended up boosting the accel value to 50 so I could stop cooking the rear tires. It made it a little easier to apply power.

So I'm curious, what tires do you use 5/5/5 on?

I'm almost always on racing softs and all the tunes I've used that ask for much higher values are also on racing softs. I can see what you're saying about comfort softs being true but the tunes I'm referring to are the same cars and tires I use in racing all the time.
 
The 5/5/5 works because it is as close as the fully custom LSD comes to being fully open as some of the true stock open LSD with 0/0/0 values in them. It works because it is inefficient, tuning it will give you significantly better lap times, but anything between open and properly tuned usually turns out bad.
 
I agree with budious (on his second post) it works, but only because you've sacrificed it's true intent.
You could increase traction by cutting your power in half, but it's not going to result in the fastest lap times.
You've sacrificed forward bite, for traction. So it's easier to drive, easier to put the gas down, but you aren't accelerating as fast as you could if the LSD were properly tuned.
The trick is to find the sweet spot, where you maintain the most possible forward bite, without sacrificing consistent control over tire spin under throttle.
 
I have been rethinking the whole LSD terminology lately, no thanks to the thorough ones provided in game, and have reached an alternative perspective on how it may work. Consider the truths known to work; some combinations of low initial with high acceleration and modest deceleration work well; some combinations of mid/high initial with mid/low acceleration and mid/low deceleration work well.

Apply some conjecture to assume that locked is a even split of torque between both wheels; 50/50. Apply some more conjecture to assume that initial torque is a representation of some point between open, 0/100//100/0, and locked.

Assume an example where initial torque is 20 and apply the conjecture that it represents percentage of a difference between splits, so that neither wheel can exceed 90% torque application; 10/90. (20% of 50 is 10)

Now where this view differs from most of the previously aforementioned theories is that neither acceleration nor deceleration sensitivity are modifiers of this state of minimum and maximum lock. Consider both values to measurements of transition period between the two states; the unit of measurement being ambiguous and not particularly relevant. A higher initial torque is closer to the locked state so it needs less of a transition period to smoothly obtain locked state, a lower initial torque is further from the locked state so it needs more of a transition period to smoothly obtain locked state.

Acceleration sensitivity then would represent transition time between initial torque and locked during which the torque distribution gradually shifts from 10/90 to 50/50 (using example above). This period needs to be long enough to prevent rapid torque changes which would result in loss of traction exiting corners but short enough to obtain lock shortly after exiting a corner for straight-away stability.

Deceleration sensitivity on the other hand, would represent the transition time from locked back initial torque. This period would not need to be as long as acceleration sensitivity for most configurations since torque is being removed from the wheels simultaneously and unlocking the differential to allow the state of initial torque to be present upon cornering. However, setting this period too short would result in the car becoming prematurely loose during high speed decelerations into corners.

Approaching the LSD tuning from this perspective at least seems to make more sense from the values that represent best results. Your results may vary.
 
I have been rethinking the whole LSD terminology lately, no thanks to the thorough ones provided in game, and have reached an alternative perspective on how it may work. Consider the truths known to work; some combinations of low initial with high acceleration and modest deceleration work well; some combinations of mid/high initial with mid/low acceleration and mid/low deceleration work well.

Apply some conjecture to assume that locked is a even split of torque between both wheels; 50/50. Apply some more conjecture to assume that initial torque is a representation of some point between open, 0/100//100/0, and locked.

Assume an example where initial torque is 20 and apply the conjecture that it represents percentage of a difference between splits, so that neither wheel can exceed 90% torque application; 10/90. (20% of 50 is 10)

Now where this view differs from most of the previously aforementioned theories is that neither acceleration nor deceleration sensitivity are modifiers of this state of minimum and maximum lock. Consider both values to measurements of transition period between the two states; the unit of measurement being ambiguous and not particularly relevant. A higher initial torque is closer to the locked state so it needs less of a transition period to smoothly obtain locked state, a lower initial torque is further from the locked state so it needs more of a transition period to smoothly obtain locked state.

Acceleration sensitivity then would represent transition time between initial torque and locked during which the torque distribution gradually shifts from 10/90 to 50/50 (using example above). This period needs to be long enough to prevent rapid torque changes which would result in loss of traction exiting corners but short enough to obtain lock shortly after exiting a corner for straight-away stability.

Deceleration sensitivity on the other hand, would represent the transition time from locked back initial torque. This period would not need to be as long as acceleration sensitivity for most configurations since torque is being removed from the wheels simultaneously and unlocking the differential to allow the state of initial torque to be present upon cornering. However, setting this period too short would result in the car becoming prematurely loose during high speed decelerations into corners.

Approaching the LSD tuning from this perspective at least seems to make more sense from the values that represent best results. Your results may vary.

budious, I think you're right on the money on this one. I would still classify this LSD as an electronic differential though given the fact that it can transfer more than 50% torque to either wheel. The most that a mechanical LSD can do is 50% torque to both wheels which is basically a fully locked rear axle.
 
I think i followed that, but to be sure, would the following be true in a FR car?

Max Initial torque (locked diff) -- 50/50 torque to both wheels.
Causes understeer. Inside tire will try to spin at same speed as outside tire preventing the car from turning in.

Min Initial torque (open diff) -- maximum torque goes to tire with least grip
Causes oversteer and/or slow acceleration. Inside tire will spin if too much throttle is applied. Torque is lost and cannot be applied to outside tire.

Max Accel/Decel
Very little torque will cause diff to go from initial state to fully locked state

Min Accel/Decel
It takes a lot of torque to go from initial state to fully locked state

So 5/5/5 pretty much means the LSD is disabled. It probably works fine in low power cars with sticky tires, and is better than no LSD, but it is far from optimal in cars that can easily break loose tires with too much throttle.
 
I'm not sure I followed that... you lost me at your definitions of accel and decel.

As for max initial torque, represented by the value 60, I do not think that would equal 50/50. Using my previous formula, it would be along the lines of 60% of 50 is 30% torque, or a minimum of 30/70 torque difference. Therefore either wheel could only receive between 30-70% of the available torque. If the initial was set to 5, then either wheel could receive between 2.5-97.5% of the available torque.
 
I just read what you wrote budious and it sounds pretty accurate its just a different way of thinking of it.

Like you said IT is how locked it is at all times, and how easy it is to lock, on top of that the amount of lock depends on the sensitivity.
 
Ok I understand your approach to initial torque then. Initial at 60 will only allow 30/70 split while initial at 5 will allow 5/95 split.

This is *before* the accel/decel settings are factored in?

So a running initial at 60 will allow 30/70 split when torque is 0. As torque increases the accel value factors in how quickly the split will go from 30/70 to 50/50?
 
Ok I understand your approach to initial torque then. Initial at 60 will only allow 30/70 split while initial at 5 will allow 5/95 split.

This is *before* the accel/decel settings are factored in?

So a running initial at 60 will allow 30/70 split when torque is 0. As torque increases the accel value factors in how quickly the split will go from 30/70 to 50/50?

2.5/97.5 under my conjecture.

Accel/Decel does not change the split under my conjecture.

Right. Accel would determine the rate of transition from 30/70 to 50/50. Decel would determine the rate of transition from 50/50 to 70/30. Consider this shift of balance as if you were driving through esses. 30/70 and 70/30 would be available simultaneously, but you would need a smooth transition to lock but fast enough of transition away from lock to rapidly change direction. IT of 60 might be too high for this type of maneuver like the lead in section at Nordschleife.
 
Suzaka east is a great place to test esses. I may do some experimenting tonight if I get home in time.
 
I agree with budious (on his second post) it works, but only because you've sacrificed it's true intent.
You could increase traction by cutting your power in half, but it's not going to result in the fastest lap times.
You've sacrificed forward bite, for traction. So it's easier to drive, easier to put the gas down, but you aren't accelerating as fast as you could if the LSD were properly tuned.
The trick is to find the sweet spot, where you maintain the most possible forward bite, without sacrificing consistent control over tire spin under throttle.

Thanks Adrenaline and the rest of you for your input. So if I understand you correctly then, the purpose of the accleration part of the LSD is to bring the rear closer to lock to achieve better acceleration but at the expense of increasing, power on understeer, meaning you'd acclerate at a faster rate, but start accelerating later coming out of a corner. The balance to achieve then is the proper combination of the following:

1. At what point in the corner you can get the power down to the pavement, limited by understeer.
2. The rate of accleration and thus time to top speed in that particular stretch of road
3. The degree of control you need to be able to consistently run laps to be both competitive time wise balanced with ever increasing chances of uncontrolled or unpredictable wheelspin.

The ultimate goal being to be able to produce your fastest lap times possible, with consistency and enough of a degree of control that you enjoy racing a particular vehicle. And the process would be perhaps to start at 5 on the acceleration side of things and then increase it incrementally until you find the right balance for you and the lowest lap times with the greatest consistency.
 
Thanks Adrenaline and the rest of you for your input. So if I understand you correctly then, the purpose of the accleration part of the LSD is to bring the rear closer to lock to achieve better acceleration but at the expense of increasing, power on understeer, meaning you'd acclerate at a faster rate, but start accelerating later coming out of a corner. The balance to achieve then is the proper combination of the following:

1. At what point in the corner you can get the power down to the pavement, limited by understeer.
2. The rate of accleration and thus time to top speed in that particular stretch of road
3. The degree of control you need to be able to consistently run laps to be both competitive time wise balanced with ever increasing chances of uncontrolled or unpredictable wheelspin.

The ultimate goal being to be able to produce your fastest lap times possible, with consistency and enough of a degree of control that you enjoy racing a particular vehicle. And the process would be perhaps to start at 5 on the acceleration side of things and then increase it incrementally until you find the right balance for you and the lowest lap times with the greatest consistency.

To a degree, I'd say you're on the right track.
BUT My personal... I don't want to say beliefs, but experiences, show that the Acceleration Sensitivity is not what dictates what you've described above, but rather the Initial.
I don't care, nor pay attention to the technical or mathematical aspects that people try to assign to how the LSD works.
I focus only on cause and effect, and how to explain it to people, so that they can comprehend and apply it.

I will not claim my theory to be the 'right one' nor will I say anyone else's is wrong. (Although I do enjoy calling out Poppins on his definition of what the perfect LSD is and how changes day to day.) My theory works for me, it's simple to understand for even the non tuner or mechanically inclined. I openly admit the LSD may be 'designed' and 'operated' an entirely different way then I've explained, but how I've written it, makes it clear and concise for everyone regardless of their knowledge base.
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't understand it yourself."
-Albert Einstein

My personal theory is below, as quoted previously in this thread:
Yeah, what I've been using as a simple, basic guideline is below, but I'm eager to find a more scientific method, and also a relation between the 3, to work in unison.

Initial. I treat this as if it controls how much engine power(torque) is applied to the rear wheels. The lowest setting of 5, transfers the least amount of power, therefor the least likely to break traction, but also the least likely to accelerate very fast. The highest setting of 60, results in a lot of engine power being transfered, which can cause a loss of traction. The 'sweet spot' is somewhere in the middle, where you find just enough power to accelerate out of the corner, but without breaking traction.

Acceleration. It's easiest to think of this as 'which tire gets the power, applied by the setting you chose from initial'. The lowest setting of 5, results in the inside tire receiving the most power, causing inside tire spin, but more control. The highest setting of 60 results in the outside tire receiving the most power, which will create outside tire spin, giving you a lot of 'on-throttle-rotation' but is definately harder to control. Again, the sweet spot is somewhere in the middle, where both tires get nearly the same amount of torque applied. If you like the car to 'turn' on throttle, add some power to the outside tire (higher accel), if you think the car is too loose on throttle, send more power to the inside tire (lower accel).

DeAccel. Controls the amount of difference between rear tire rotational rates. The lowest setting of 5 allows the car to freely rotate into the corner, but can makes the car unstable, if it 'rotation' becomes 'spinning out'. The highest setting of 60 results in the least amount of difference between the rear tires, which creates the most stability, but allows the least amount of rotation into the corner. As the above 2, the 'sweet spot' appears to be in the center, where you can safely drive into the corner as hard as you want, without experiencing understeer. If the car understeers, lower De-Accel. If it feels like it wants to spin out when you drive in, raise De-Accel.

*Disclaimer* The terms I use are incorrect. I used them to try to help people visualize and understand what each option does, in a measurable and noticeable manner through their own testing. Initial probably works an entirely different way, but how I've explained it, can help anyone understand the cause and effect, which is the main purpose.

Cheat Sheet:
Inital
Lower number = less torque transfered from engine to rear wheels (slow acceleration)
High number = more torque transfered from engine to rear wheels (no traction)
Find the happy medium, it's different for every person, car and set up.

Accel
Lower number = more torque transfered to the inside wheel (control)
Higher number = more torque transfered to the outside wheel (on throttle rotation)
Find the happy medium, where the rear tires have close the the same torque, fine tune high or low based on how the car feels on center through exit, under acceleration.

DeAccel
Lower number = easier to turn into corners, but can cause spinning out
Higher number = more resistance to turn into corners, but more stable.
Find the happy medium, where you can safely drive in as hard as you like, without losing control, or experiecing understeer.

Keep in mind, that since initial will increase or reduce the amount of torque transfered to the rear wheels, that adjusting the initial, will also effect the accel. If you increase the overall torque to the car, it might cause an imbalance in where the torque is being applied by the accel setting. As I increase initial, it usually forces me to lower accel, or I run into outside wheel spin again.

I am not here to argue nor defend my theory, anyone who wishes to disagree or debate what I've said will be ignored. Not because I believe I'm right, but because there is no point; It works for me, it may not work for you, so be it. I encourage anyone trying to understand LSD to test many of the theories provided in this thread, and apply the one that works for them, regardless of whose it is. Theory in practice will get you much further than practicing theories.
 
Adrenaline, I just saved your cheat sheet as a txt document. It makes perfect sense. I'll run a few tests tonight to try to dial in a car with your method. If it works, I too will probably start ignoring responses in this thread.

So a common issue I see people have is rear tires losing traction on the cape ring periphery uphill loop-de-loop. Sometimes its too low of a suspension but other times the rear end just kicks out for what seems to be no reason. When it happens going uphill it's almost impossible to save and the car dives to the apron, hits the wall, then bounces to the top of the track. I see 2 or 3 cars do this on the first lap of my public 450pp races all the time. It happens in my '90 RX-7 and i thought adding a wing would help...but it didn't.

Given your guide, the first thing to check might be initial torque. If lowering it resolves the issue without sacrificing speed that is one solution. Otherwise, LOWERING the accel value should produce more stability since it will reduce power-oversteer. In both cases settings are lowered, which at first seems counter intuitive when you are having problems with traction.


Now back to the 5/5/5 suggestion. Why does it work for the poster a few pages back? Initial of 5 basically limits torque across the board. It might not be the fastest solution but it will certainly prevent wheel spin. Since very little torque is allowed through, the other settings become muted and have less affect.
 
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Adrenaline, thanks for the cheat sheet. I'm going to try it out on a few cars. To date I've been using the classic explaination of how the LSD works and while it made logical sense, I've never felt it transferred well to the car and it's driveability, for me anyway. Like a lot of other stuff in GT5, sometimes things aren't quite what they appear to be. Thanks in advance as I'm sure it's going to help. I'm sure I'm missing out on something with my low LSD settings and maybe this will help to sort it out.

Out of curiousity, I'm also tinkering with ABS=0 and while at first I couldn't get the hang of it, I now believe I can. I wonder if the occasional rear wheel lock under heavy braking will have any effect on the LSD. Anyone have any info or experience on that?
 
that cheat sheet means nothing.
those #'s about how much torque transfer there is when changing IT has nothing to do with how the LSD in game works and the IT has nothing to do with the amount of torque transferred at all.

you guys are thinking of initial torque completely wrong.

it is how much preload is already in the lsd to allow it to lock, which is what the accel sens controls.

the more preload the faster response, but the more it is locked when it isnt needed to be.


im not trying to argue i just know that is how it works.
 
lower IT makes it respond later but makes the response smoother, has nothing to do with how much torque is transferred or how much lock there is.

lower AS makes it not lock up as much and gives you inside wheel spin if its too low. higher is almost always better.
 
lower IT makes it respond later but makes the response smoother, has nothing to do with how much torque is transferred or how much lock there is.

lower AS makes it not lock up as much and gives you inside wheel spin if its too low. higher is almost always better.

He's saying the same thing, Poppins. Difference is that Adrenaline put it in terms that a non-gearhead can understand. :)
 
This is a very informative thread. I've learned a lot from all points of views. But recently I came across an explanation of LSD which I want to share. In this explanation of LSD, it's not so much about what Initial Torque (IT), Acceleration and Deceleration does, or how much pressure and lock rate is applied and at what point, but more in the context of tuning the car to the specific drivers ability.

The information is taken from the a section of the book that came with the Collectors Edition Exclusive of GT5 titled - APEX: Ultimate Car Guide.

Chapter 03
Tunings & Settings
Part-by-Part
Page 161

Drivetrain: LSD
Changing the Limit Changes Maneuverability: ADJUSTING CORNERING BEHAVIOR

Initial Torque decides the point at which LSD kicks in. The higher it is, the more easily the LSD will lock, and the more responsive acceleration will be. The lower the initial torque, the more slowly the LSD will take effect.

Generally speaking, increasing the initial torque will accentuate the handling peculiarities of the vehicle's drivetrain layout. Therefore, oversteer will be increased in rear-wheel drive cars, and understeer will be increased in cars with front-wheel drive. Although this improves traction in both cases, it will make turning more difficult. As such, initial torque adjustments should be made with the desired handling requirements in mind.

Another setting that can be adjusted is how the LSD behaves during acceleration ad deceleration. The acceleration setting governs the effectiveness of the LSD when stepping on the accelerator, and the stronger it is, the more drive power is transmitted to the wheels, and the more likely the car will be able to clear corners. However, this will also accentuate any handling peculiarities, and getting the car to point in the right direction needed to exit the corner may require some skill.

The deceleration setting governs the effectiveness of the LSD when the accelerator is released. The stronger it is, the more stable it will be upon entry into a corner while breaking. This allows you to go into the turn very fast, because you can keep breaking longer than you would otherwise. However, this makes turning more difficult, and is only recommended for advanced drivers who are skilled at compensating for initial understeer.

For me this means two things:

(1). If I can get the car to adapt to my driving style and the intended track, then LSD can remain at default. Because of this thread I am more aware of LSD and therefore can not ignore it while doing a tune setup.

(2). LSD is not the answer to my bad driving habits, i.e., smashing on the gas during corner exit; nor will LSD alone correct a cars typical behavior, i.e., rear-wheel drive cars tend to oversteer. However, if after tuning there are still issues with cornering behavior, then LSD is where I'll come. Now, I realize that some people will start tuning LSD first. But I wouldn't.

Over time and with enough experience I will learn what works for me in what car and on what track. Maybe then I will have a default LSD setting. But if the car is new to me, then back to scare one in tuning: Ride Height, Spring Rate, Dampers, etc :)
 
Fantastic thread with good debate… I know my own mind has changed a couple of times between reading differing opinions and also experimenting myself.

I have a proposal for a joint experiment for all interested in this thread, where those partaking post their results for comparison and, hopefully, reach a resolution as to the practical, in-game effects of LSD settings.

I propose the exact same experiments be conducted by each person with a control car, on control tires, and on one particular track, so as to eliminate as many variables as possible and ‘compare apples with apples’.


Whilst the in-game description, real-life examples, and posters subjective opinions in this forum may be right or wrong, by conducting this experiment we can at least solidly identify basic cause-and-effect with as little bias as possible (personal driving style remaining the biggest variable).

Of course this isn’t going to get off the ground unless we get agreement on the particulars of the experiment…


****
I propose 2 test cars – one which is prone to spinning the Inside tire and one which is prone to spinning the Outside tire***

This gives us the 2 most common problems in which LSD is used solve. These 2 problems share the same objective –To improve power-down (traction/grip) and handling characteristics using different LSD settings.
****

Now for the details…

These cars of course are up for discussion as there may be more appropriate choices but heres my 2 cents…

I have an F430 Scuderia with all weight reduction, all non-power-related upgrades, aero, stage 1 engine tune, racing softs and it fries the Outside rear tire like crazy.
What are peoples thoughts on this car (unmodified or modified, but kept the same for all tests) to be used one of the control cars?

I think I read somewhere on here that the Camaro fries the Inside tire badly so perhaps this could be the second control car?

As for the track, simple is better I think, so either high speed ring or trial mountain would work well.


For simplicity, and ease of interpreting results (which I think is important to avoid bashing heads against walls in debates), tests should be conducted using LSD settings of:

1. NO LSD
2. min/min/min
3. min/max/max
4. max/min/min
5. max/max/max


Results should be kept simple and clearly posted in the form of the differences observed in power-down (grip/traction) and handling for each of the settings. Personal opinions should be restrained to a degree, to let the results speak for themselves, unless drawing simple conclusions from the data obtained. Screenshots welcome.


Hopefully this will put everyone on a similar playing field and therefore make it a lot easier to not only resolve the practical in-game effects of LSD settings, but also make it easier to understand where/how posters have obtained their information, with the opportunity for others to re-create this experiment and test their own and others’ theories as well!

GO BANNANA!!!!! :)
 
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