Initial Torque: What do you do?
- Thread starter oopssorryy
- 361 comments
- 51,001 views
:tup:this is completely incorrect, please dont start posting more false statements
lower initial torque makes it harder to lock, higher initial torque makes it lock easier
easily tested AND proved with the one tire on grass one on cement trick.
everything i know about lsd is correct
as long as you have it set higher then 10/10/10 its gonna work out good pretty much, lower then that is a very open diff and 30/60 locks up very easily, 60/60 being as locked as possible
everything is out of 100%
5 for initial torque means it takes 95% torque to lock diff and 60 means it takes 40% to lock diff
sensitivity setting controls slip, aka how much it locks, or how much wheel spin difference is allowed
again 5 means it lets 95% slip, meaning it locks only 5% and the wheels can differ in speeds up to 95%
60 means it lets 40% slip meaning it locks 60% and the wheels are able to differ in speeds up to 40% maximum
lower sens helps understeer while braking / throttle around a corner but wont lock up as well on straights.
- 863
- oops_sorryy
Hey now, I want everyone's input on this, so Disavowed I would be happy to hear what you have to say. Maybe you have info or idea's we haven't heard of. Let's hear what he has to say and go from there.
To be honest, I don't think there is anyway to prove if anything said here is true or false info short of getting one of GT5's programmers to chime in. What I do know is that the LSD in the game does not work anything like the real thing. To me, Initial torque in the game is simply the amount of wheelspin you'd like to have before the "LSD" effect kicks in. Acceleration simply controls the amount of torque sent to the left or right wheel. Show me a real car with a LSD that can spin it's outside drive wheel. Even the new electronic differentials don't do that although it could probably be programmed to do so. If we could put the car on a rolling test bed in the game and got torque readouts for each of the drive wheels, then we're talking. Otherwise, percentages of this and that are pointless. Call me old school or anything but I setup my LSD according to what I "feel" on the track. I've already said that I start my tunes with 10/10/10 and work from there but that's just me.
- 195
- itstheDRE4M
Rotary Junkie
Premium
- 9,810
- Canton, MI
- RJs_RX-7
The Mach 1's stock diff is 100% open... It is extremely controllable with little power-oversteer but wheelspin is in far greater quantities. You won't get the same exit speeds as a correctly-driven LSD-equipped car, but the LSD'd car will require better throttle control to prevent the tail snapping out.
Is it possible that the LSD settings are reversed on some cars?
I just bought the 20mil Ferrari 330 and the accel setting is working backwards.
I started with a base LSD setting of 10, 20, 15. Going full throttle in a turn and it wants to fishtail. I moved the accel setting from 20 to 30 and it got worse. Set it all the way to 60 and just breathing on the throttle it would spin around. Putting it down to 10 did the trick. Now I can be full throttle through a turn (with the engine screaming) and the tires don't break loose at all.
With other cars, the more I increase accel the less wheel spin I get. Could there be a bug on some cars that cause the settings to switch? Or is there some other factor involved with this specific car causing this behavior?
I just bought the 20mil Ferrari 330 and the accel setting is working backwards.
I started with a base LSD setting of 10, 20, 15. Going full throttle in a turn and it wants to fishtail. I moved the accel setting from 20 to 30 and it got worse. Set it all the way to 60 and just breathing on the throttle it would spin around. Putting it down to 10 did the trick. Now I can be full throttle through a turn (with the engine screaming) and the tires don't break loose at all.
With other cars, the more I increase accel the less wheel spin I get. Could there be a bug on some cars that cause the settings to switch? Or is there some other factor involved with this specific car causing this behavior?
- 3,359
- California
- PumpinNumbies
This only proves one thing; ignorance.
You've lost any and all credibility.
You can try to sound smart, or like you have all the answers, and people who only read the last page may buy it. But for those of us who followed the entire thread, when you claimed to 'know everything' 10 different times, on 15 different theories, all of which conflicted each other...
Not gunna happen.
I'm sure you'll eventually come to a conclusion that will be the correct one, but I can guarantee it wasn't because you came up with it.
Any logical theory you claim as your own, I'm sure I can find a post, where someone else said it before you did, and probably, where you mocked them for said theory. Only to find you changing your stand point and then calling the other half of the posters idiots.
I repeat, you've lost any and all credibility on the subject of LSD.
meh i dont give a flying **** what you say i know that i am right and yes i was wrong like 10 different times LOL
Rotary Junkie
Premium
- 9,810
- Canton, MI
- RJs_RX-7
Well... What's happening here is the diff is functioning exactly as advertised. The higher accel value is causing the outside rear tire to slip sooner... And when that happens the tail breaks loose and more wheelspin follows (once you break traction you lose available traction). Lower settings mean the inside tire will be the first to go and it has a much smaller impact on oversteer than the outside tire for obvious reasons.
Basically, the higher setting does increase the amount of throttle you can give without any tire slip... But the instant it does slip, it's far more murderous.
- 177
- Rome ITA GMT+1
- PowerDrome73
Hello to everyone,
I've read a lot of posts in this thread and understand that a lot of confusion is there between us, GT drivers.
Confusion that came out of:
In game description:
it has always be confusing because of translations of editors, lack of tech knowledge of the editors in respect of programmers or tech engineers that gave the input to the game or to the game manual.
An example overall is the spring rates value, it is called flexibility (or something similar), well, raising it should raise flexibility? Not at all, luckily in this value we have the unit Kg/mm so we easily understand that raising the value, increases stiffness (no flexibility), and also pragmatic test is easier to feel.
In the Initial torque definition, the manual says that IT is the torque required to activate the LSD, this is misleading and it's the root of our discussion so far: they should have written IT is the torque APPLIED to the transmission when activating the LSD
Reports based on lap times:
Although I rely on feeling of other users, I well know how lap times are influenced by so many factors, concentration, type of driving at the moment, personal preferences, and experience that improves lap after lap; even if the average lap could be a sign, even changing nothing will improve our average times.
Confusion between causes and effects (of car behaviour).
The approach is misleading; we say that LSD LOCKS or UNLOCKS at Initial Torque=5 because the inside or outside tyre spins.
To clear this out think about karts, they work with a FULLY LOCKED or better a solid axle; well, I've been racing in karting for 5 years before upgrading to little formulas for 3 years, the lack of differential is intentional, just to make the inside tyre spin and this happens with a LOCKED transmission.
This said I'll try to explain how in the real racing world LSD works and how the 2 settings are used:
Initial torque:
In this case torque is NOT referred to engine-->transmission torque (or difference on grip lost)
It IS referred to torque applied by the LSD itself to its gears (clutch plates or oil) when it comes in action, therefore:
IT high = faster LOCK
IT low = slower LOCK (nearest to UNLOCK)
ACCEL SENS HIGH/LOW: stronger/weaker LOCK --> more/less transmission (power) to the NON-slipping tyre
same for DECEL SENS
Now the origin of confusion are the effects that you guys are feeling during tests.
In general a high Initial torque intensify the own grip peculiarities of the car: oversteer on RWD (lsd on rear axle), and understeer on FWD (lsd on front axle).
Most of you should be surprised because we are thinking at LSD as a tool to make the car spin less or more safe/stable --> WRONG.
In fact on standard cars they are not equipped because (they are very expensive too, yeah) it is more safe to have one tyre (more often the inside tyre) lose grip, while the other has NO power(traction) at-all from the engine.
LSD is a tool equipped on special cars, racing, off-road, or gran turismo sportcars to improve performance, to STILL give traction to the wheel that is not spinning (loosing grip).
Careful! Traction is different from grip.
This is the point where we should clarify confusion:
I've just said that karts have a LOCKED transmission --> the inside tyre spins.
I've just said also that standard cars with a standard differential (UNLOCKED) --> the inside tyre spins (more often).
What's the difference:
in karts the outside tyre STILL have 100% of the power/transmission, this could end in controlled slide (perfect and fast curve) OR loss of grip of both tyres--> spin/crash
in standard cars (standard transmission) the outside tyre Will get near 0% of transmission/power, automatically decelerate making the slipping tyre gradually re-gain grip and more probably stay on the road, if we didn't exceeded the limits.
HERE comes the real difference on tuning an LSD for better grip and performance:
!!!Traction is different from grip!!!
Tuning LSD we make the power from engine still give traction to the tyre with grip while the other is slipping.
Locking the LSD, its quickness with the IT, its strength (quantity) with ACCel and Decel Sens, WE make the car faster during turns because of more traction, BUT we increase the own grip peculiarities of the car: oversteer on RWD (lsd on rear axle), and understeer on FWD (lsd on front axle); if we cannot handle it, we will experience more slipping.
I hope this will clarify confusion coming from different effects experienced by users trying opposite settings, again different effects like inside or outside tyres spinning doesn't mean an LSD locked or unlocked.
Ending, I feel that in-game description is misleading, the above is how LSD works in real and experiencing it in GT5 I can say that following this definition works great.
Low Initial Torque and Med/High ACCEL& DECEL SENS if your driving style is EXTREME (sliding turns)
Low Initial Torque and Low/Med ACCEL& DECEL SENS if your driving style is Expert/MEd (safer)
Med/High Initial Torque and Low/Med ACCEL& DECEL SENS for DRIFTING.
Good driving to all. CYA on the tracks
I've read a lot of posts in this thread and understand that a lot of confusion is there between us, GT drivers.
Confusion that came out of:
In game description:
it has always be confusing because of translations of editors, lack of tech knowledge of the editors in respect of programmers or tech engineers that gave the input to the game or to the game manual.
An example overall is the spring rates value, it is called flexibility (or something similar), well, raising it should raise flexibility? Not at all, luckily in this value we have the unit Kg/mm so we easily understand that raising the value, increases stiffness (no flexibility), and also pragmatic test is easier to feel.
In the Initial torque definition, the manual says that IT is the torque required to activate the LSD, this is misleading and it's the root of our discussion so far: they should have written IT is the torque APPLIED to the transmission when activating the LSD
Reports based on lap times:
Although I rely on feeling of other users, I well know how lap times are influenced by so many factors, concentration, type of driving at the moment, personal preferences, and experience that improves lap after lap; even if the average lap could be a sign, even changing nothing will improve our average times.
Confusion between causes and effects (of car behaviour).
The approach is misleading; we say that LSD LOCKS or UNLOCKS at Initial Torque=5 because the inside or outside tyre spins.
To clear this out think about karts, they work with a FULLY LOCKED or better a solid axle; well, I've been racing in karting for 5 years before upgrading to little formulas for 3 years, the lack of differential is intentional, just to make the inside tyre spin and this happens with a LOCKED transmission.
This said I'll try to explain how in the real racing world LSD works and how the 2 settings are used:
Initial torque:
In this case torque is NOT referred to engine-->transmission torque (or difference on grip lost)
It IS referred to torque applied by the LSD itself to its gears (clutch plates or oil) when it comes in action, therefore:
IT high = faster LOCK
IT low = slower LOCK (nearest to UNLOCK)
ACCEL SENS HIGH/LOW: stronger/weaker LOCK --> more/less transmission (power) to the NON-slipping tyre
same for DECEL SENS
Now the origin of confusion are the effects that you guys are feeling during tests.
In general a high Initial torque intensify the own grip peculiarities of the car: oversteer on RWD (lsd on rear axle), and understeer on FWD (lsd on front axle).
Most of you should be surprised because we are thinking at LSD as a tool to make the car spin less or more safe/stable --> WRONG.
In fact on standard cars they are not equipped because (they are very expensive too, yeah) it is more safe to have one tyre (more often the inside tyre) lose grip, while the other has NO power(traction) at-all from the engine.
LSD is a tool equipped on special cars, racing, off-road, or gran turismo sportcars to improve performance, to STILL give traction to the wheel that is not spinning (loosing grip).
Careful! Traction is different from grip.
This is the point where we should clarify confusion:
I've just said that karts have a LOCKED transmission --> the inside tyre spins.
I've just said also that standard cars with a standard differential (UNLOCKED) --> the inside tyre spins (more often).
What's the difference:
in karts the outside tyre STILL have 100% of the power/transmission, this could end in controlled slide (perfect and fast curve) OR loss of grip of both tyres--> spin/crash
in standard cars (standard transmission) the outside tyre Will get near 0% of transmission/power, automatically decelerate making the slipping tyre gradually re-gain grip and more probably stay on the road, if we didn't exceeded the limits.
HERE comes the real difference on tuning an LSD for better grip and performance:
!!!Traction is different from grip!!!
Tuning LSD we make the power from engine still give traction to the tyre with grip while the other is slipping.
Locking the LSD, its quickness with the IT, its strength (quantity) with ACCel and Decel Sens, WE make the car faster during turns because of more traction, BUT we increase the own grip peculiarities of the car: oversteer on RWD (lsd on rear axle), and understeer on FWD (lsd on front axle); if we cannot handle it, we will experience more slipping.
I hope this will clarify confusion coming from different effects experienced by users trying opposite settings, again different effects like inside or outside tyres spinning doesn't mean an LSD locked or unlocked.
Ending, I feel that in-game description is misleading, the above is how LSD works in real and experiencing it in GT5 I can say that following this definition works great.
Low Initial Torque and Med/High ACCEL& DECEL SENS if your driving style is EXTREME (sliding turns)
Low Initial Torque and Low/Med ACCEL& DECEL SENS if your driving style is Expert/MEd (safer)
Med/High Initial Torque and Low/Med ACCEL& DECEL SENS for DRIFTING.
Good driving to all. CYA on the tracks
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But that's beyond the scope of this thread.yes powerdrome has everything summed up perfectly.
IT is how easy it is to lock. Higher # is easier Lower # is harder.
AS/DS is how much it does lock.
on top of that youre description is good, it all comes to a matter of preference to how you drive.
I usually roll with ~30/60/10 because I like driving everything as hard as I can and with throttle control Im still able to drive very safely, while still being able to get it sideways at any time.
edit: your mention on karts and the inside wheel spinning while it is locked.
edit: fixed my sleepy mistake, higher # is easier lower # is harder
Im not quite sure what you mean here, that the inside wheel spins as fast as the outside wheel or are you saying it spins slower? (even though its locked)
IT is how easy it is to lock. Higher # is easier Lower # is harder.
AS/DS is how much it does lock.
on top of that youre description is good, it all comes to a matter of preference to how you drive.
I usually roll with ~30/60/10 because I like driving everything as hard as I can and with throttle control Im still able to drive very safely, while still being able to get it sideways at any time.
edit: your mention on karts and the inside wheel spinning while it is locked.
edit: fixed my sleepy mistake, higher # is easier lower # is harder
Im not quite sure what you mean here, that the inside wheel spins as fast as the outside wheel or are you saying it spins slower? (even though its locked)
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- 177
- Rome ITA GMT+1
- PowerDrome73
Poppins i'm actually saying that IT easier means slower lock OR easier torque that as you surely know means less force on locking thus delayed lock.
About karts the inside spins because it is travelling a shorter distance than the outside, therefore it is doing more rounds than the outside and loose grip.
Okay about the cart thing that is what I thought you meant.
The tires spin the same speed but since the inside travel is going a shorter distance it "burns out" a bit.
The Initial Torque thing I just woke up when I wrote that so it is backwards bahaha.
sorry about that you can even check my previous posts on the last page or two and Im saying the same thing you are.
A lower # makes it harder and have delayed lock like you said yes not like my last post where I said lower makes it easier. Had a few beers last night and that doesnt tend to help the brain!
the IT thing I agree with you on and how you explained everything is how Ive been doing it for a while now.
The tires spin the same speed but since the inside travel is going a shorter distance it "burns out" a bit.
The Initial Torque thing I just woke up when I wrote that so it is backwards bahaha.
sorry about that you can even check my previous posts on the last page or two and Im saying the same thing you are.
A lower # makes it harder and have delayed lock like you said yes not like my last post where I said lower makes it easier. Had a few beers last night and that doesnt tend to help the brain!
the IT thing I agree with you on and how you explained everything is how Ive been doing it for a while now.
- 863
- oops_sorryy
Thank you! It seems as if most people are in agreement with what you have said. I thank you for clearing all this up for us tuners less involved with real life racing!
The reason for this is when you raise the Accel Sens it makes the tires lock together more, so having it low allows them to spin different speeds and instead of braking loose you're probably putting most of the power to the inside wheel.
Surprised you arent burning that inside wheel really badly though :S If the IT is low as well, that is.
- 863
- oops_sorryy
I'm not really surprised, with such a high horse power car, having the IT low will keep the diff slipping longer. and with the AS set low as well, you can power hard out of corners, because if you give to much power you'll just burn the inside tire, instead of kicking the back end out like you would with a higher AS value. Probably not the best online tune (if I'm right tire wear would be horrendous) but is probably really good for offline.
- 1,175
Poppins I have followed your writing eagerly since you first began to talk on the subject of LSD. You've really established yourself as a consistent, trustworthy voice of authority in this thread, so when I noticed you gave powerdome's explanation your seal of approval, it really got my attention.
I just finished studying your wonderful texts on calculating percentage rotational speed differences allowed by the accel. setting but now my head is full of knowledge that seems to conflict with what powerdome wrote!
Please help me, teacher. I know you won't lead me astray!
I agree with everything here. I deleted a bunch of his post just to make it smaller but what he said here is how it is.
On a kart it is FULLY locked all the time, because it is a solid axle with one gear connected to it, no LSD, so no matter what both tires will always spin the same speed. When going around a corner this causes the inside tire to travel less distance then the outside tire, but at the same speed, causing it to spin "extra" and lose traction on the cement. They are both, ALWAYS getting 100% of the power, with a LSD (compared to the fullly locked diff of the gokart) the inside tire that is travelling a shorter distance is allowed to spin at a different speed the the outer tire UNTIL A CERTAIN POINT where it will lock up and spin BOTH tires and not just the one on the inside. This does not make it fully lock up, and the tires are still able to spin different speeds then each other, but only to a certain degree. This point is set by the LSD settings, as well as how much energy needs to go through the diff to lock in general, and is why I came up with percentages.
Initial Torque is the amount of energy (torque, spinning force) needed to engage the LSD. A lower #, like he said will cause it to need MORE power to lock up, therefore causing it to be harder to lock up, and again therefore causing it to lock up slower.
My %ages for this one relate to that. Everything out of 100%
IT: 5 = Needs alot of energy, Hard to lock, Takes a bit of time.
IT: 60 = Needs barely any energy, Easy to lock, Locks fast.
100% - 5 = 95% of total energy in the diff to lock. A lot is needed.
100% - 60 = 40% of total energy in the diff to lock. Not much.
If you could set it to 0 this would technically make it barely ever lock as 100% of power is needed to lock it, if you could set it to 100 this technically would make it locked ALL the time because 0% of power is needed to lock it.
This is why they stop it at 5 and 60, because 95% is a lot of power needed and 40% is a small amount of power to lock the diff and less then that is just pointless.
Accel Sens is how strong it locks, how "hard" it locks, or how much slip or tire spinning speed difference is allowed. They are all the same thing. A lower # will cause it to barely lock up at all, even if it is set initial torque at 60, it will lock right away due to the initial torque but wont lock up very much. On the other hand if you have it set high, even with the initial torque set low it will lock right away, because the tire spin difference "overrides" the amount of energy needed, even if there isnt enough energy needed to lock the diff it ONLY allows them to spin a little bit different speeds.
I think this is out of 100% as well.
AS: 5 Doesnt lock much, Inside tire spins faster the the outside tire, (can be tested with one tire on grass one on cement) and is alot less "violent" because one tire is allowed to spin alot faster then the other even if it is locked.
AS: 60 Locks up alot, Tires will both spin the same speed within a very short time causing it to lock up hard, and this causes it to be "violent" and snappy because it is kicking in both tires instantly.
100% - 5 = 95% wheel speed difference allowed, a very weak lock only about 5%, or a 95% slip in the diff before it locks if you like to think about it that way.
100% - 60 = 40% wheel speed difference allowed, very strong lock about 40%, or only 40% slip in the differential before both tires will lock up.
If you were able to set sensitivity down to 0, this would cause it to allow a 100% wheel speed difference, this would not ever cause it to not lock because one tire can still spin a max of twice as fast as the other tire, but if you were able to set Initial Torque and Accel Sens both to 0 you would have a fully open diff that never wants to lock unless you have alot of horsepower where it will just spin an open diff anyways.
On the other hand if you could set sensitivity up to 100, this would cause it to be 100% locked ALL the time under acceleration because the wheels are not allowed to spin at different speeds at all, 0%, meaning it locks up 100%. This is exactly how the gokart is as it has a solid axle with no diff. (except with cars it is allowed to disengage when not accelerating or braking, the kart is always solid).
This is why it would stop at 5 and 60 again, because you never are going to want it to allow the wheels to spin more then 95% of each other because that is just rediculous, and you dont really ever want it to allow the wheels to spin less then 40% the speed of each other because that would really affect cornering when you are giving it throttle.
In short.
IT: 5 = hard to lock (95% total energy needed to lock), 60 = easy to lock (40% total energy needed to lock)
AS: 5 = not locked much (5%), 60% = locked a lot (60%)
braking sensitivity works the same as accel sens but for when you are braking
if you read this over completely you should be able to fully understand.
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Ok, Poppins, I can see where you're coming from but it still doesn't explain how the car can spin it's outside drive wheel when you set the Accel higher. In a real LSD, you can reach at the most even torque distribution between both drive wheels like in a kart's solid axle. With a solid axle, both tires will always slide at the same time. It's simple physics. Once you enter a turn in a solid axle, both wheels will have different speeds relative to the pavement causing a slide. A kart might not be the best example since it actually lifts the inside rear tire in turns because of chassis flex and the king pin angle in the front axles. A better example might be if you locked up all 3 diffs in a jeep or a truck.
In a real LSD, you very rarely set it to lock 100%. Even if you set a LSD to lock @ 60% (which allows a 40% difference between drive wheels), the inside drive wheel will always spin first; never the outside drive wheel. A Torsen or torque sensing differential cannot do that either. Reason being, in a Torsen diff, as soon as a wheel loses traction, it becomes an open diff.
Ok, what I'm saying here is that we can try to approximate the way GT5 "tries" to simulate a real LSD but it's very far from behaving like a real one. This is the main reason I never go very high with the Accel setting because doing so just doesn't relate to the "real thing" and consequently, the car will not behave like IRL.
In a real LSD, you very rarely set it to lock 100%. Even if you set a LSD to lock @ 60% (which allows a 40% difference between drive wheels), the inside drive wheel will always spin first; never the outside drive wheel. A Torsen or torque sensing differential cannot do that either. Reason being, in a Torsen diff, as soon as a wheel loses traction, it becomes an open diff.
Ok, what I'm saying here is that we can try to approximate the way GT5 "tries" to simulate a real LSD but it's very far from behaving like a real one. This is the main reason I never go very high with the Accel setting because doing so just doesn't relate to the "real thing" and consequently, the car will not behave like IRL.
I only have a few cars that spin the outside wheel (buick special, no matter what i do it always does) and I think it is more of a physics problem then anything else.
What I think happens is because the lsd lets the outside tire spin faster then the inside tire (opposite of real life) when taking a corner because once the inside tire starts to slip it transfers power to the outer tire. (going back and forth instead of just keeping the inside spinning faster and making the outside spin as well) If accel is <50 it usually negates this on lower powered cars, high power cars will make both red.
I tend to go 30/60/10 on most cars but I think Im going to start trying out 30/30/10 - 30/50/10
I also tend to think 40/40/10 will work very good, allowing the inside tire to spin a bit faster but compensating by locking up 10% less power.
GT5 is just messed like that
It really doesnt matter too much, just play with it and set it how you want it but Im 99% sure that is how it works. 10/10/10 is too low, 60/60/60 is too high.
Just did some testing, 40/40/10 works very well for every car Ive tried it on.
What I think happens is because the lsd lets the outside tire spin faster then the inside tire (opposite of real life) when taking a corner because once the inside tire starts to slip it transfers power to the outer tire. (going back and forth instead of just keeping the inside spinning faster and making the outside spin as well) If accel is <50 it usually negates this on lower powered cars, high power cars will make both red.
I tend to go 30/60/10 on most cars but I think Im going to start trying out 30/30/10 - 30/50/10
I also tend to think 40/40/10 will work very good, allowing the inside tire to spin a bit faster but compensating by locking up 10% less power.
GT5 is just messed like that
It really doesnt matter too much, just play with it and set it how you want it but Im 99% sure that is how it works. 10/10/10 is too low, 60/60/60 is too high.
Just did some testing, 40/40/10 works very well for every car Ive tried it on.
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- 1,175
NO POPPINS, NO!!!! I realise you're probably only young so I feel a bit stupid scolding you over the net, but you need to learn some damn respect and humility. If you pursue your passion for engineering or physics to higher education, you'll need to change how you present your ideas/ assimilate other people's ideas, because it's just not allowed. 
Right, now that's out the way..
This is the same conclusion I came to. For me, the outside tyre spin with tighter diff ended any chance of finding a rational explanation of the game's LSD.
Right, now that's out the way..
This is the same conclusion I came to. For me, the outside tyre spin with tighter diff ended any chance of finding a rational explanation of the game's LSD.
- 39
- NMRacing
It is not called acceleration strength. It is called acceleration sensitivity, increasing the number makes it more sensitive to wheelspin. if the inside wheel spins, increase sensitivity. If the outside wheel spins, decrease sensitivity.
If you can feel the LSD engaging in between acceleration and deceleration increase initial torque. If the car understeers to much or is hard to turn, decrease initial torque.
It is that simple.
If you can feel the LSD engaging in between acceleration and deceleration increase initial torque. If the car understeers to much or is hard to turn, decrease initial torque.
It is that simple.
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