Snow wore out its welcome about two weeks ago for me when I put my summer tires back on. And this week its been pretty warm, actually, so yesterday I decided to install the new short-throw shifter I bought. The goal was slightly different than what resulted, especially now that I galled the threads of the two pieces together. Not a clue how that happened. They went together fine, but absolutely refused to come back apart.
Anyways, the process.
The shifter. It wasn't bent quite as far as I'd hoped. I'll explain how I plan to tackle that problem later.
Honda obviously designed the jack points of these cars to fit on a car lift. That's a problem when you're using a jack and jack stands. Luckily it turns out my front lower control arm is sturdy enough to not only place my suspension well, but also hold up half the front end.
This is the assembly as seen from the bottom. The rod going through the huge bushing at the left (rear) is simply to place the linkage longitudinally so it won't wobble freely; it also goes all the way up to the transmission and mounts solidly there. The other rod, hooked to the bottom of the stock shifter here, is what goes to the transmission. The shifter simply pivots on a ball which is inside that rubber seal there in the middle.
This is what the interior looks like before I take it apart...
...and this is what's underneath. A dust shield to seal the hole.
To be funny I painted the shifter a satin purple, which I later decided I don't like. Flat black it is, then.
This is the stock shifter assembly all taken apart. That small thin bracket on the left is one pain in the ass. The two bolts laying next to it, as you can see, aren't made to be held from the top. They have a small square shape on the bottom of them that's meant to fit into squares in the bracket so they don't turn. But that only works if those bolts are held in place by other means, like a couple tack welds (my cousin's was held like this, but my buddy with the same car wasn't). I recently discovered that J-B Weld is nothing to screw around with, so I plastered those bolts with it and squished it down.
The hole.
This is the bottom of the new shifter, all buttoned down. You can see those two stubborn bolts I mentioned. Speaking of that, I plastered all the bolts I took off with a nice bit of anti-seize so I'll be able to take them off again if need be. Stuff works magic. You can also see the real-man's bearing grease that I used to fill up that socket that the shifter fits into and the bearing at the base, which the bolt goes through. Smooth operation and longevity FTW. I also cleaned the lithium grease off that big bushing (you can see the mess above) and put a coat of bearing grease on that too. I've had squeaking problems with the lithium once it gets cold.
Here are all three shifters that got replaced. Tyler's aluminum one, with about 10,000 miles; Josh's aluminum one, with at least ~30,000 miles; and my stock steel one, with ~145,000 miles. We were absolutely
appalled by how the aluminum ones were worn by the RUBBER socket. That right there is the main cause of shifter slop. Tyler's wobbled. You could hardly tell the difference between 1st and 5th gears on Josh's car. Mine always felt pretty solid. It tuns out the only slop in my system is actually
inside the transmission.
I don't have any pics of it inside the car because we ran out of light. And I'm not going to have any for a while, because like I mentioned earlier I ruined my custom knob and Tyler's extension. Today I drew up plans similar to Tyler's piece, but once my dad has some free time at work he's going to turn them up out of steel or stainless. Or plastic. Or copper, or bronze, or more aluminum, or titanium...
But that'll be a week or two we think. So for now I'm just going to have to put my synchronizers though some premature wear and I'm going to have to bend over to reach my 4-speed shift knob.
Also, tomorrow's plans. I'm going to disassemble my stuff like I did yesterday and I'm taking the shifter to my buddy Marty's house. He's got an acetylene torch. The plan is to heat up the bottom bend, the one bent backwards, until it's glowing red or whatever, and then we'll grab it with a long pipe and bend it a further 15 or 20 degrees. We've got no way to measure it precisely, of course, but we don't need one. I want the top of the threads to be about an inch and a half further back from where they are now. Then I'll be able to double-stack my extensions without punching the dashboard like I did today when I tried and failed.
Somebody say custom parts? YUP.
EDIT: I just thought of a good way to gauge how far to bend it. I'll take my stock shifter also. If we can band the Fidanza's top to the same point as the stock shifter's top, it still will be pointed more vertical than the stock stick, but it'll be moved back to where I want it. I think that's a good idea.