LeMONS to LeMANS Wednesday Series

[st1sj]

I know, sleight, I had 2 cars that went over. 96 Silvia and 2000GT. Bummer.

I'm going to do some testing in my lounge now if anyone is interested.

 

[polizei]

i like how engine overhauls are under 8k hahaha

 

[diabolicwyvern]

I've tested a few cars. After refresh my top car so far was only at 366PP, so I've parted my way to exactly 375PP. Doing more testing now

 

[chuyler1]

My MR2 SC comes in at 376pp, damn!

I think one of the keys to this season will be picking the right upgrades from the start when money is unlimited.

The non SC MR2 will work, i gave it a spin and its on my short list. Running fast without killing the rear tires will be difficult though. It likes to drift around turns 1 and 2 at grand valley east reverse.

I tried a few older cars as well but gearing will be an issue with the ones i tried.

Picking the righht upgrades is definitely part of the strategy. With less money to spend during the season if you place well drivers should consider the pricey weight reduction and turbos at the start of the season.

Also, make sure the car allows a turbo or suprrcharger. Some of the old ones dont allow them and you'll be at a disadvantage late in the season if you cant add that bolt on power to your car.

 

[st1sj]

My 93 silvia May be out. Ugh. I just realize that it is a ticket 1000 car so it has no miles. At 374 PP currently (with engine and chassis fresh) but if I break it in it should go up in HP. What do you guys think? Can I run it?

 

[morbo]

thanks for the advice chuyler

my PSN is: galikazoid

i'm testing some cars now, so it's good to know about the importance of the upgrades option

 

[sl3ight]

My 93 silvia May be out. Ugh. I just realize that it is a ticket 1000 car so it has no miles. At 374 PP currently (with engine and chassis fresh) but if I break it in it should go up in HP. What do you guys think? Can I run it?

I think if you only run it online in your lobby it wont get broken in.

I'm triyng to find an s14 Q in the UCD, no luck so far...

Edit : Found one!

 

[MNLumberjack]

I'm planning on running a Lancer 1600 GSR '74
As of now, although, will have to see what the dealership throws at me.

 

[Niop]

I'm in, I'll update with my car choice.

 

[st1sj]

I think if you only run it online in your lobby it wont get broken in.

I'm triyng to find an s14 Q in the UCD, no luck so far...

Edit : Found one!

Pretty sure if I run a race it will break in the engine and increase pp, but not positive. It basically is like a new car.

Chuyler, is that ok to run?

 

[morbo]

I'm planning on running a Lancer 1600 GSR '74
As of now, although, will have to see what the dealership throws at me.

That was one of the cars I tested, it's quite nice.

But I've decided to go with:

Toyota

Corolla Levin GT-Apex (AE86) '83






Unless the right car shows up at UCD.

 

[polizei]

it's got APEX in the name, so you know it's good! 👍

 

[BTK]

Don't worry about it breaking in, if you only run online races it shouldn't break it in. You're good snoop. :tup;

 

[chuyler1]

I'm planning on running a Lancer 1600 GSR '74
As of now, although, will have to see what the dealership throws at me.

I've been looking for that car so i can test drive it.

Pretty sure if I run a race it will break in the engine and increase pp, but not positive. It basically is like a new car.

Chuyler, is that ok to run?

It will break in and gain pp. Does anyone know how much? I have seen my premium cars gain about 1-2 performance points per race over the course of a night. Although it doesnt seem like much, it would be equivalent to a 500cr part.

Anyway, if you run a few races with the car (use b-spec) and it is still under 375pp then the car is ok to use. Otherwise it would give you an unfair advantage on the second race.

 

[chuyler1]

Don't worry about it breaking in, if you only run online races it shouldn't break it in. You're good snoop. :tup;

Incorrect, everyone was complaining on same make night that there cars were gaining power between races and they had to make adjustments.

 

[diabolicwyvern]

it's got APEX in the name, so you know it's good! 👍

That comment was epic...that's how I knew to pick the car. It handles so great and if you're not convinced, they put apex in the name.

 

[Vol Jbolaz]

I have found a few S14s, but none of them were under 375 PP after a refresh. If you run an S14, then I'm going to call BS.

If you truly do find more than one S14 that stays under 375 after a refresh, gift me one? I'll hit you back with whatever you are looking for.

For that matter, is there something anyone is looking for? I've wanted to test an AE86, but none have come up for me (and the only Toyotas that have have all crossed 375 after the refresh). I've been turning over my UCD as much as I can.

I have found some S13s, and I'm considering that, the Eagle Talon, IS 200, or the Primera/G20. I'm leaning toward the Talon and Primera because they are 2 liter FFs. I'm still a rubbish driver and I'm afraid the FRs will get out of hand later in the season.

My wife got me a DFGT today (Woot Father's Day). Wow! I like the pedals, but the steering wheel keeps turning itself. Is that feed back from the road, is that torque steer, what is that? It is just a huge pain. And I feel like the understeer in the Civic I was playing around with was so amplified by the wheel.

I'm going to look around to see if there is some way to configure the wheel that makes it feel more like I expect.

 

[MadMax]

My advice for new wheel users = gold the licences with it.

You named there many cars I've been thinking.
The event time may be difficult to match 3.30 AM local time



MadMax

 

[st1sj]

Incorrect, everyone was complaining on same make night that there cars were gaining power between races and they had to make adjustments.

Then would all new cars have to go through the same break in process? I ask because the Silvia would be punished simply because I got it from a ticket. So basically anyone who use a new car at 375pp would get that same advantage in the second race, yeah?

 

[sl3ight]

Is it required that we do chassis and engine rebuilds? The rules say that they're free, not that they're required.

 

[Vol Jbolaz]

Is it required that we do chassis and engine rebuilds? The rules say that they're free, not that they're required.

If you don't do them before the first race, then you can't do them ever. The point is, if you wait until after the first race, you get a huge bonus.

 

[sl3ight]

I wouldn't call it a huge bonus if we forego those updates for the first race, since we'd have the disadvantage of not having done them. Also keep in mind that cars tuned up to the pp limit are usually faster than cars that are at it stock.

 

[Vol Jbolaz]

I wouldn't call it a huge bonus if we forego those updates for the first race, since we'd have the disadvantage of not having done them. Also keep in mind that cars tuned up to the pp limit are usually faster than cars that are at it stock.

I think you are looking at it the wrong way. Basically, you are carrying (20ish?) horses under your skirt that you aren't using until the second race. They are free, you don't have to pay for them. You are gaming the system.

Wth the EK Civic on the TGTT 8 horses dropped my lap time by five seconds.

 

[diabolicwyvern]

Im with Garris. It certainly is a bonus. If you want to wait till after the first race...I'd expect you to pay for it out of winnings otherwise you are able to get in a car with 375 PP that after refresh will be 10PP up on everyone else w/o having to spend for it.

 

[diabolicwyvern]

So Morbo and possibly Snoopy will be in AE86. BTK would be in one if other people werent, but I dont think he'll pop for it and put three on the track at once.

 

[Niop]

I'm going to be driving the Toyota MR2 1600 G '86. This is going to be exciting.

 

[MadMax]

Car must start at or below 375pp AFTER a complete engine and chassis refresh.

This part should be self explanatory , first complete the engine rebuilt then see if the PP is 375 or less.
If it is , then the car is eligible.



MadMax

 

[chuyler1]

Ok people, this is a lemons series so cars with 0 miles dont really work. I think the advantage has been explained enough. If you have a 0-mile car you want to use, you'll have to break it in and perform the engine refresh to find its true starting pp. Thats the only way to ensure your car will not gain power between the first and second race without you purchasing anything.

Looks like others have discovered most of the cars i have been thinking about. Should i keep a tally i. The top post of what people are running in case others want to pick something unique?

I've been looking at the MR2 and the Talon. I also tested a host of others which might not do well the first race but may be fun to build up over the series. I havent found a suitable FR car yet but i'm going to keep looking today.

 

[polizei]

if you want to break in a car quickly, just let your bspec drivers use it in some events. takes about 200 miles to fully break in my cappuccino.

 

[Vol Jbolaz]

I finally got the DFGT working a little better for me. The pedals were a huge help out the gate. I turned on the power assist steering and set the control sensitivity to 7. Now it is so much easier for me to be so precise in corners.

The odd thing is, the FRs that I tested last night wouldn't oversteer. I finally got the DFGT to keep from understeering all the time. I'm still nervous that later in the season the FRs will get out of hand.

The Talon is the quickest so far, but I spent 15,000 on it to get it closer to 375. That is 15,000 that I can't spend later in the season, so I'm wondering if that is a good idea.