LeMONS to LeMANS Wednesday Series

  • Thread starter chuyler1
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I plan to run a zero mile car. The HP to be gained in one race is likely in the 5-8hp range. Definitely nothing that will provide a noticeable difference around a track.
 
I think you are looking at it the wrong way. Basically, you are carrying (20ish?) horses under your skirt that you aren't using until the second race. They are free, you don't have to pay for them. You are gaming the system.

Wth the EK Civic on the TGTT 8 horses dropped my lap time by five seconds.

Alright, I get what you're saying.

I've narrowed it down to two options right now, both designed by a certain Nobuaki Katayama...
 
Unless I find something I like better, I'm going to be running the '97 MG F. I haven't tested it yet but I have run one before in the 450pp room at it was a pretty good car and I enjoyed driving it.
 
Just to clarify the car rules. So no 0 mile cars are allowed, standard or premium, right? Based on Booch's experience, at least 200 miles minimum?

I'm not trying to exploit the rules to gain an advantage, just want to clarify what is or is not allowed.
 
I plan to run a zero mile car. The HP to be gained in one race is likely in the 5-8hp range. Definitely nothing that will provide a noticeable difference around a track.
Umm no. I have already stated, it will not be allowed. 5-8 hp on these cars is a big difference in top speed. This is a lemons series so put at least 200 miles on the car. If it is still below 375pp after 200 miles the car is ok to use, if it goes over, you will have to pick something else. After each race, drivers need to share their cars so if we find it has over 375pp you will be disqualified from the competiton.
Just to clarify the car rules. So no 0 mile cars are allowed, standard or premium, right? Based on Booch's experience, at least 200 miles minimum?

I'm not trying to exploit the rules to gain an advantage, just want to clarify what is or is not allowed.
Yes. No 0-mile cars. Put at least 200 miles on the car and perform an engine refresh. If it is still under 375pp it is ok to run.

i finally got here. i'm definitely racing. car tbd.
Sweet! Welcome to the forum!
 
I finally got the DFGT working a little better for me. The pedals were a huge help out the gate. I turned on the power assist steering and set the control sensitivity to 7. Now it is so much easier for me to be so precise in corners.

The odd thing is, the FRs that I tested last night wouldn't oversteer. I finally got the DFGT to keep from understeering all the time. I'm still nervous that later in the season the FRs will get out of hand.

The Talon is the quickest so far, but I spent 15,000 on it to get it closer to 375. That is 15,000 that I can't spend later in the season, so I'm wondering if that is a good idea.

I was going to mention, the force feedback is pretty strong and takes some getting used to. You should have the wheel properly secured to a table or wheel stand for the best affect.

I dont like power assist, if you are turning the wheel enough for it to kick in, you are likely understeering and scrubbing rubber off your front tires. The force feedback will fight you until the car oversteers and then you'll feel the wheel let go or pull the opposite direction. When you turn on power assist you lose some of that feedback.

Most cars at this level wont oversteer unless you force them. The only exception is that 86 MR2. It will step out if you turn and brake at the same time whether you want it to or not.
 
I was going to mention, the force feedback is pretty strong and takes some getting used to. You should have the wheel properly secured to a table or wheel stand for the best affect.

I dont like power assist, if you are turning the wheel enough for it to kick in, you are likely understeering and scrubbing rubber off your front tires. The force feedback will fight you until the car oversteers and then you'll feel the wheel let go or pull the opposite direction. When you turn on power assist you lose some of that feedback.

Most cars at this level wont oversteer unless you force them. The only exception is that 86 MR2. It will step out if you turn and brake at the same time whether you want it to or not.

Which is why you run front brake bias, try f7 r2, or even f8, r0, if you want too get that aggressive.
 
User: BTK

PSN: BOWTIEKID

Car: Sprinter Trueno GT-Apex 83'

(This is the one with pop up headlights, not the Levin.)

Figured this would make it easier on you chuyler if I posted my entry like this.
 
BTK
Which is why you run front brake bias, try f7 r2, or even f8, r0, if you want too get that aggressive.

Yes, i had to go to 6/4 just to be able to take turn 1 at grand valley east reverse without inducing a drift.
 
i've also found a toyota glanza V '97

it's 373pp stock after rebuilds

so i wonder what is better, or if there is no advantage at all:

366pp stock with tuning parts closest to its max pp

or the 373pp stock which is already close enough to max pp

someone mentioned earlier that a car tuned to the pp is faster than a car stock at the same pp

so this makes me think the levin is still best choice

but then that's 7 less pp that i can upgrade later in the series

or will that even make a difference later in the series (we're not going to reach max pp on these cars by the end, will we?)

anyhow, so far it's still the levin

unless something convinces me otherwise

is there an official car entry deadline?


thanks
 
I have found cars with slight mods are quicker than stock 375pp cars...you are sacrificing late season performance for early season speed. Last season we did not max out the cars (at least i didn't) but i ran out of cheap mods very quickly and had to save for the expensive stuff.
 
i've also found a toyota glanza V '97

it's 373pp stock after rebuilds

so i wonder what is better, or if there is no advantage at all:

366pp stock with tuning parts closest to its max pp

or the 373pp stock which is already close enough to max pp

someone mentioned earlier that a car tuned to the pp is faster than a car stock at the same pp

so this makes me think the levin is still best choice

but then that's 7 less pp that i can upgrade later in the series

or will that even make a difference later in the series (we're not going to reach max pp on these cars by the end, will we?)

anyhow, so far it's still the levin

unless something convinces me otherwise

is there an official car entry deadline?


thanks
I need your selection and mods by 12:00pm on Wednesday so i can create and update a spreadsheet.
 
The only thing I'm worried about with the AE86s is that they tend to get a bit oversteery when the power gets high. I think the tire progression should counteract that nicely though.

It's a shame we don't have any premium 86s. Having racing modification turn it into an N2 car would be awesome.
 
Unless I find something I like better, I'm going to be running the '97 MG F. I haven't tested it yet but I have run one before in the 450pp room at it was a pretty good car and I enjoyed driving it.

I looked at that car last night. Mine jumped to 376 pp after the engine rebuild.
 
I looked at that car last night. Mine jumped to 376 pp after the engine rebuild.
I'm pretty sure mine is fully broken in and is right at 375pp, but I'll check it again later just to make sure. It may have a tiny bit of breaking in to do, in which case I'll change cars.
 
I have found cars with slight mods are quicker than stock 375pp cars...you are sacrificing late season performance for early season speed. Last season we did not max out the cars (at least i didn't) but i ran out of cheap mods very quickly and had to save for the expensive stuff.

I only had engine tuning 3 left after Nurb...so I maxed out for Le Sarthe in the Impreza. With the new prize structure...that will not happen for any car this time round less they start with 320 PP
 
booch and I are popping in and out of my lounge for testing. when we r not there, were refreshing new cars to try :D

Forgot about fathers day dinner. so I wont be back in lounge Booch. Sorry for the fib
 
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Since I probably won't be in this season, I'm going to go ahead with the Talon. I have it boosted up to 157 HP/1151 Kg giving it 374 PP. I was testing out at Laguna Seca and I did a 1:58.7. So I imagine the rest of the field is doing a 1:54.
 
Since I probably won't be in this season, I'm going to go ahead with the Talon. I have it boosted up to 157 HP/1151 Kg giving it 374 PP. I was testing out at Laguna Seca and I did a 1:58.7. So I imagine the rest of the field is doing a 1:54.

Quit being so hard on yourself man. Anyone can be fast.
 
The talon is quick, it was my top car during testing until i ran about 10 laps in the MR2 and fixed the brake balance. The FF car requires a slightly different line but it has power to make up for any short comings in handling. It also has a decent transmission.

Anyone take that old vette out for a spin? I thought it had potential until i found out it had a 2 speed transmission and could barely break 100mph.

So far everyone has discovered the cars i was thinking of running except 1. My last option isnt going to be quick on the first race but it might do well as the season progresses. ...but im still shopping.
 
I haven't seen my most likely choice mentioned yet...and I'm not gonna mention it publicly. :lol:

secret weapon? :mischievous:
 
I've got several...a 280Z has been the quickest so far. The Altezza/IS200 is not far behind but it starts out so damm heavy that the first couple races I think I'll just be dropping weight when I should be added power.

I think no one will come near the PP levels we hit last season. I've maxed several cars people are talking about and so far the most I've seen from any car is 472PP but its not financially possible to get there. I think by the end most of us will basically be driving 450 cars

PS: I'm not mentioning my top choice yet either. Anyone lapped GVE-R yet?? Booch and I ran several cars this afternoon and I believe consistent 1:23.xxx w/o draft will keep you near the leaders.
 
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