Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

Two things: you should not need the DualSense controller involved in any way (in fact don’t fire it up at all) and booting to PC mode on the wheel won’t do anything. The minute you turn it off that clears anything; when you then turn it on again and choose PS mode then it’s a fresh start for the wheel, so the PC mode step is unnecessary.

For the QR are you just pushing the wheel on to the wheel base without touching the QR collar? Make sure you’re not trying to keep it squeezed whilst you push the wheel rim on - it should just attach with a nice solid “clonk”.

One other question: you’re not using Collective Minds’ Drivehub are you?
 
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Two things: you should not need the DualSense controller involved in any way (in fact don’t fire it up at all) and booting to PC mode on the wheel won’t do anything. The minute you turn it off that clears anything; when you then turn it on again and choose PS mode then it’s a fresh start for the wheel, so the PC mode step is unnecessary.

For the QR are you just pushing the wheel on to the wheel base without touching the QR collar? Make sure you’re not trying to keep it squeezed whilst you push the wheel rim on - it should just attach with a nice solid “clonk”.

One other question: you’re not using Collective Minds’ Drivehub are you?
To the first part: I agree, makes no sense. But it does appear to help the wheel start in a PS mode. Often when just beginning from a PS mode, I just get the three dots until it gives up and turns off. For whatever reason, PC mode works.

Also, when the controller is off and I can reach the step where I connect the wheel. Pressing the PS button to connect will cause the wheel to immediately disconnect and the three dots come back and I have to start over.

Regarding the QR, I am not holding onto the collar at all. Both hands gripped around the wheel rim pressing it onto the base.

Lastly, I'm not using any Drivehub. Connections are done all through the wheel's base and front PS5 USB port.
 
It does seem to need me to set the parameters again on first start up (as in, the wheel's first power up) and it resets rotation to 900, but that doesn't take long at all and as I say, it's not on the latest firmware yet so haven't given it much thought.
I've seen half a dozen reports of this here and on YouTube and have reported this a few time here.

According to Rich it could be an old-FW thing.

The DoR resetting 'though is apparently "normal" and made by the game. Personally I'd like the wheel's profile to allow locking of the parameter, allowing a set-and-forget use case.
 
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Connections are done all through the wheel's base and front PS5 USB port.
The usb A port on the front is a slower one and I mainly use it for charging devices. Try using an adapter on the front USB C port or preferably one of the rear ports.
 
I used a rear port for the first few weeks then switched to the front one for what is now a similar length of time.

Haven't noticed any difference at all.
 
I don't have yet a G PRO, but have a T-GT II + PS5, besides having already had issues (fried motherboard), i read more and more issues on T-GT + PS5, including burned motherboards, random disconnections.

I suspect that something is wrong with PS5 USB ports with our wheels. Technical departments should investigate what's going on with PS5 USB ports.
 
Have you tried swapping the USB cable, using the one for the pedals to connect to the PlayStation instead?
Just tried this, but didn't get any better results. Also tried all USB A ports, no go. I would have to buy an A to C adapter to test the only other one.

I can usually only get as far as connecting the wheel. I've tried with the controller on and off, doesn't seem to make any difference. PS4 or PS5 mode doesn't either. Best I've been able to, on occasion, stay connected is a few minutes before, what I believe, the wheel might be restarting (I'm not accidentally pressing the power button or anything).
 
@LOGI_Rich Ok sorted, it was this thread https://www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/y2gx3z/logitech_g_pro_wheel_issues/Logitech G Pro Wheel issues that worked, There's no username so I can't give him the credit. Turns out it was just a case of uninstalling and reinstalling G hub, guess for long time users of G hub it's the last thing you would think you would need to do.

Is there anyway of getting this solution as a sticky at Logitech.com FAQ as I was seriously thinking of returning this if not sorted?

I now see what the fuss is about this wheel there is far more information being transmitted through the wheel and as a long term fanatec direct drive wheel I'm convinced Logitech is onto something and I don't know what I'm gonna do with my thousands of pounds of fanatec wheels and paddles, ebay anybody!
 
It might seem an odd question but do you still have a PS4 that you can test it on?
It would be really nice to test on PS4, to see if the PS5's USB ports really have any influence. And devs should be aware if those issues are too onG on Xbox.
 
It might seem an odd question but do you still have a PS4 that you can test it on?
I do. Tried loading up GT Sport. The wheel seems to be connecting fine to the PS4, but when I connected the wheel, the game crashed (error CE-34878-0). Tried a couple more times but the wheel still occasionally disconnects. Tried NFS and was able to connect for a little while but still disconnected after a few minutes of driving.
 
At this point I have to say that it seems like there is a problem with the wheel. One final point to check is the power adapter connection. Make sure all of the connections (wheel, power brick, wall socket) are firmly inserted - especially on the wheel.

If they are then please raise a ticket with support.

@optical10 Glad it’s up and running! Can’t believe I forgot to suggest reinstalling G HUB!!
 
What about the cable or cable connector? If there's an intermittent-contact issue (dirt or whatever), that might explain the unit's shutting down (thinks it's not connected to a device) and possibly app / system crashing of PS4/5 due to unusual numbers of handshake requests.

Probably not, but I thought it might be worth a shot in Glock's case. You never know. 😉
I hear ya mate; I was just providing feedback is all. ;)
 
At this point I have to say that it seems like there is a problem with the wheel. One final point to check is the power adapter connection. Make sure all of the connections (wheel, power brick, wall socket) are firmly inserted - especially on the wheel.

If they are then please raise a ticket with support.
Checked power connection multiple times, all looks good. Looks like I'll be contacting customer support. Hopefully third time will be the charm.

I appreciate the help.
 
Just got the G Pro Wheel and was having problems getting it to work correctly everything was working for the most part. But mostly the steering was not working in gt7. Turns out I’ve been using the ps4 version on my ps5. As soon as I started the ps5 version, which was right next to the ps4 version. All the problems I was having were resolved. I know, why would I ever use the ps4 version on my ps5? Never really thought about it. That’s why. Anyway for all those having this problem make sure you are using the ps5 version on your ps5 not the ps4 version.
 
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Can you describe the difference In detail? I know that might be tough but try haha
That's a really tough one, not least because it's comparing the last time I used the G25 on Assetto Corsa vs using the G Pro with GT7... :/

And my only other bit of recent comparison for context is using a Thrustmaster DD wheel with RF2 at a sim racing place nearby!

With that in mind, I'll try and be as thorough as possible, it's all very subjective and I don't have a wealth of exposure to other products to base my judgement on, so can only give you how it feels to me, for what that's worth! :)

Plenty has been said about load cell brake pedals, it's a much nicer way to brake and I don't think there's really much 'subjective' to say. Personally I only have mine set to 30kg force currently, I've got the two hardest rubber inserts and the softer foam one, I found using all 3 the hardest the pedal felt too firm, the softer foam insert gave what to me felt like a more realistic initial 'squidge' to the pedal that then firmed up with pressure. But then my newest car in real life is 15 years old so perhaps it's just what I'm used to...

The different sensation of the load cell brake pedal soon disappears though and just becomes second nature. I've been running with ABS off to get a feel for how hard to brake etc. and it's a joy, favourite moments have been going to Tsukuba doing the midday time trial where it's raining, and then just lapping it until it dries up. It is so easy to consistently judge the braking just right, get it to the point just where one wheel is starting to whine without locking up, it feels spot on, and it's so easy to trail brake and ease off brake pressure as you turn, it's like the wheel and brake pedal are connected to each other. A minor note, but the throttle pedal has a really usefully long travel, I like driving overpowered RWD cars (in real life as well!) and so appreciate a nice long travel to help modulate the power out of corners. The springs are ridiculously easy to replace, so I went with the stiffest under the clutch pedal (as I have a fairly heavy twin plate clutch in my favourite 'real' car) and picked the spring that felt the most similar again to how my real life pedal feels. It's all so easy to change that I actually took the time to play about with the different options, not something I've considered previously.

The wheel itself, looks are subjective but to me I much prefer the grey, less toy like appearance, and the unobtrusive button layout. The leather feels very nice, I've had no issues with the stitching in the thumb grip area feeling hard or anything like that. The whole wheel feels very high quality, the plastic body is solid and feels like quality plastic (such a thing does exist!), the LEDs and the screen are clear and sharp and being able to adjust the settings on the wheel whilst driving means it's the first time I've ever bothered tinkering with wheel settings as I can make an immediate judgement based on a back to back comparison and really feel what the setting changes do. Hell even the USB cables feel seriously premium.

The squared off bottom is an odd choice for what's (currently...?) the only wheel offering, but I've not found it bothered me too much when quickly winding on a turn or so of lock either way, but to be honest would have preferred a round wheel. The size, rim thickness and materials feel much better than the G25 anyway, again, less toy like. The buttons and rotary dials feel OK, certainly not bad in any way, but not mind blowing (if a button could be mind blowing), I don't find GT7 responds very consistently to the rotaries, may be a firmware thing, may be a GT7 thing, it's not a big deal though.

The paddles feel very nice to me, there was never any doubt of clicking a gear on the G25, but here it just feels an even more positive action and a more solid overall feel.

OK so getting on to the actual important bit, the wheel feel. Obviously coming from a G25 it's night and day difference. I mentioned something similar about the brake pedal earlier, but the best compliment I can give it is that within about 3 corners you forget you're actually using a peripheral, it just feels 'right'. Don't get me wrong, it took some playing about with the settings, I had things too low in GT7 without realising, but the ease of tinkering meant I could dial the wheel in whilst playing and really feel what each setting did, and get it exactly how I wanted it.

I'm unsure how the TrueForce bit is implemented, and I have it quite mild, there is an extremely light 'hum' through the wheel, I suspect this is playing off the engine sound, but having deliberately paid attention in real driving to see if such a thing exists, I feel this slight 'hum' gives a nice representation of that inherent 'surface noise' that's always present with a hydraulic steering rack when on the move. The rumble strip vibrations, again I've no idea how it makes it feel like it's on the appropriate side of the car, but it's a really nice touch, it feels subtle enough to feel 'right' and gives a nice cue for where your wheels are as you go off track or over a rumble strip. I will say the default setting for TrueForce was comically high. I have a 6.6 litre V8 with a lumpy cam and pretty solid engine mounts, and even that doesn't vibrate the steering wheel like a stock GT86 did in GT7 :D

These are standard Direct Drive points, but obviously were new to me...

The wheel is silent (gentle fan noise aside), which is not only a treat after the sawtooth grinding of a 15 year old G25, but helps it just disappear from your mind and let you focus on the feedback it's giving.

The speed of rotation is perfect. You can have the dampener down and let the wheel spin at fully industrial speeds, ripping off thumbs as it goes, which is great for drifting as the wheel immediately corrects and allows you to slide with ease, or you can dial the dampener up a little to help simulate the reality of actually moving a steering system and the inertia that's part of the steering system. Again you can tweak the settings as you go and can get it balanced just right that, much like real steering, the wheel will very naturally and quickly follow the path of the front tyres as you slide sideways, but there's a natural feeling weight to the system that's hard to articulate, but again felt noticeably more 'right' as I dialled the dampener back in a bit.

I noticed from Logitech's settings FAQ that the dampener setting is inextricably linked to the FFB torque, and this makes a lot of sense. The dampener initially just felt like submerging the wheel in treacle, like a sort of fake resistance. It added what felt like a realistic (but still subtle) 'heft' to the act of turning the wheel, but I was initially running at only 3Nm and then 5Nm of FFB torque, so in essence it felt like the dampener was almost stronger than the FFB and smothering its output. I'm now running 11Nm FFB and I think around 10-15 on the dampener and the FFB is comfortably strong enough to communicate, but there's still that perfect extra layer of the dampener that means it doesn't feel like you're just hanging on to an electronic motor, there's a sense of the rest of the steering system being felt.

It's a very hard and wishy washy thing to try and communicate!

I think the word 'layer' just then is probably the most useful way of getting the point across, and I don't have any clue how this is possible with what is fundamentally a motor that can turn clockwise or anti-clockwise... It feels like you have that inherent layer or 'resistance', the dampener, that I feel represents the actual weight of the steering system in a car. Then you have the layer of FFB as you turn of tyre grip. The lightness when it's wet (and thus low grip) and the way the FFB weight builds up as the track dries, it feels so transparent and natural. Then there is that layer of information about what the rear of the car is doing, the way you can feel the back begin to rotate out of line, some how on top of the previous layers of feedback. And then there's this layer of surface information, when a wheel drops off the edge of the road surface, or over the little double bump that's on the exit of the first tunnel corner at Trial Mountain that I haven't ever known was there until this wheel. And then the layer of TrueForce information, that somehow communicates which wheel is running over a rumble strip and how much of the wheel is on it.

I don't know how it can somehow communicate all of those layers of information simultaneously, but it feels like it does, and they all feel so distinct, so nuanced and so clear that it's as if the game is shouting feedback at you about what the car is doing, which is a real pleasure to use, and for want of a better phrase really heightens how 'in control' you feel of the car.

Having previously only used a controller with GT7, I could 'feel' that the physics engine was good (and that I needed to play it with a wheel!) but online racing I was always a bit tense when near other racers, because I felt I didn't have the precision in my thumbs to race closely, and was always a bit on edge with whether I'd over correct, or miss a braking point and run in to someone etc., whereas with the wheel now even without ABS on (would have never even considered that on the controller) the car feels really planted and trustworthy and I'm happy racing really close to other cars without fear of messing up anyone's race with a silly mistake through a lack of dexterity, and instead just an actual lack of driving / racing skill, which I'm fine with! :)

Hope that helps give a bit of insight, happy to try and answer any more subjective questions. I'm using the wheel / pedals with a Playseat Trophy. For the type of driving I enjoy, the set-up is screaming out for a decent H pattern shifter (or an adapter for my TH8A ;)). My fingers are crossed.
 
That's a really tough one, not least because it's comparing the last time I used the G25 on Assetto Corsa vs using the G Pro with GT7... :/

And my only other bit of recent comparison for context is using a Thrustmaster DD wheel with RF2 at a sim racing place nearby!

With that in mind, I'll try and be as thorough as possible, it's all very subjective and I don't have a wealth of exposure to other products to base my judgement on, so can only give you how it feels to me, for what that's worth! :)

Plenty has been said about load cell brake pedals, it's a much nicer way to brake and I don't think there's really much 'subjective' to say. Personally I only have mine set to 30kg force currently, I've got the two hardest rubber inserts and the softer foam one, I found using all 3 the hardest the pedal felt too firm, the softer foam insert gave what to me felt like a more realistic initial 'squidge' to the pedal that then firmed up with pressure. But then my newest car in real life is 15 years old so perhaps it's just what I'm used to...

The different sensation of the load cell brake pedal soon disappears though and just becomes second nature. I've been running with ABS off to get a feel for how hard to brake etc. and it's a joy, favourite moments have been going to Tsukuba doing the midday time trial where it's raining, and then just lapping it until it dries up. It is so easy to consistently judge the braking just right, get it to the point just where one wheel is starting to whine without locking up, it feels spot on, and it's so easy to trail brake and ease off brake pressure as you turn, it's like the wheel and brake pedal are connected to each other. A minor note, but the throttle pedal has a really usefully long travel, I like driving overpowered RWD cars (in real life as well!) and so appreciate a nice long travel to help modulate the power out of corners. The springs are ridiculously easy to replace, so I went with the stiffest under the clutch pedal (as I have a fairly heavy twin plate clutch in my favourite 'real' car) and picked the spring that felt the most similar again to how my real life pedal feels. It's all so easy to change that I actually took the time to play about with the different options, not something I've considered previously.

The wheel itself, looks are subjective but to me I much prefer the grey, less toy like appearance, and the unobtrusive button layout. The leather feels very nice, I've had no issues with the stitching in the thumb grip area feeling hard or anything like that. The whole wheel feels very high quality, the plastic body is solid and feels like quality plastic (such a thing does exist!), the LEDs and the screen are clear and sharp and being able to adjust the settings on the wheel whilst driving means it's the first time I've ever bothered tinkering with wheel settings as I can make an immediate judgement based on a back to back comparison and really feel what the setting changes do. Hell even the USB cables feel seriously premium.

The squared off bottom is an odd choice for what's (currently...?) the only wheel offering, but I've not found it bothered me too much when quickly winding on a turn or so of lock either way, but to be honest would have preferred a round wheel. The size, rim thickness and materials feel much better than the G25 anyway, again, less toy like. The buttons and rotary dials feel OK, certainly not bad in any way, but not mind blowing (if a button could be mind blowing), I don't find GT7 responds very consistently to the rotaries, may be a firmware thing, may be a GT7 thing, it's not a big deal though.

The paddles feel very nice to me, there was never any doubt of clicking a gear on the G25, but here it just feels an even more positive action and a more solid overall feel.

OK so getting on to the actual important bit, the wheel feel. Obviously coming from a G25 it's night and day difference. I mentioned something similar about the brake pedal earlier, but the best compliment I can give it is that within about 3 corners you forget you're actually using a peripheral, it just feels 'right'. Don't get me wrong, it took some playing about with the settings, I had things too low in GT7 without realising, but the ease of tinkering meant I could dial the wheel in whilst playing and really feel what each setting did, and get it exactly how I wanted it.

I'm unsure how the TrueForce bit is implemented, and I have it quite mild, there is an extremely light 'hum' through the wheel, I suspect this is playing off the engine sound, but having deliberately paid attention in real driving to see if such a thing exists, I feel this slight 'hum' gives a nice representation of that inherent 'surface noise' that's always present with a hydraulic steering rack when on the move. The rumble strip vibrations, again I've no idea how it makes it feel like it's on the appropriate side of the car, but it's a really nice touch, it feels subtle enough to feel 'right' and gives a nice cue for where your wheels are as you go off track or over a rumble strip. I will say the default setting for TrueForce was comically high. I have a 6.6 litre V8 with a lumpy cam and pretty solid engine mounts, and even that doesn't vibrate the steering wheel like a stock GT86 did in GT7 :D

These are standard Direct Drive points, but obviously were new to me...

The wheel is silent (gentle fan noise aside), which is not only a treat after the sawtooth grinding of a 15 year old G25, but helps it just disappear from your mind and let you focus on the feedback it's giving.

The speed of rotation is perfect. You can have the dampener down and let the wheel spin at fully industrial speeds, ripping off thumbs as it goes, which is great for drifting as the wheel immediately corrects and allows you to slide with ease, or you can dial the dampener up a little to help simulate the reality of actually moving a steering system and the inertia that's part of the steering system. Again you can tweak the settings as you go and can get it balanced just right that, much like real steering, the wheel will very naturally and quickly follow the path of the front tyres as you slide sideways, but there's a natural feeling weight to the system that's hard to articulate, but again felt noticeably more 'right' as I dialled the dampener back in a bit.

I noticed from Logitech's settings FAQ that the dampener setting is inextricably linked to the FFB torque, and this makes a lot of sense. The dampener initially just felt like submerging the wheel in treacle, like a sort of fake resistance. It added what felt like a realistic (but still subtle) 'heft' to the act of turning the wheel, but I was initially running at only 3Nm and then 5Nm of FFB torque, so in essence it felt like the dampener was almost stronger than the FFB and smothering its output. I'm now running 11Nm FFB and I think around 10-15 on the dampener and the FFB is comfortably strong enough to communicate, but there's still that perfect extra layer of the dampener that means it doesn't feel like you're just hanging on to an electronic motor, there's a sense of the rest of the steering system being felt.

It's a very hard and wishy washy thing to try and communicate!

I think the word 'layer' just then is probably the most useful way of getting the point across, and I don't have any clue how this is possible with what is fundamentally a motor that can turn clockwise or anti-clockwise... It feels like you have that inherent layer or 'resistance', the dampener, that I feel represents the actual weight of the steering system in a car. Then you have the layer of FFB as you turn of tyre grip. The lightness when it's wet (and thus low grip) and the way the FFB weight builds up as the track dries, it feels so transparent and natural. Then there is that layer of information about what the rear of the car is doing, the way you can feel the back begin to rotate out of line, some how on top of the previous layers of feedback. And then there's this layer of surface information, when a wheel drops off the edge of the road surface, or over the little double bump that's on the exit of the first tunnel corner at Trial Mountain that I haven't ever known was there until this wheel. And then the layer of TrueForce information, that somehow communicates which wheel is running over a rumble strip and how much of the wheel is on it.

I don't know how it can somehow communicate all of those layers of information simultaneously, but it feels like it does, and they all feel so distinct, so nuanced and so clear that it's as if the game is shouting feedback at you about what the car is doing, which is a real pleasure to use, and for want of a better phrase really heightens how 'in control' you feel of the car.

Having previously only used a controller with GT7, I could 'feel' that the physics engine was good (and that I needed to play it with a wheel!) but online racing I was always a bit tense when near other racers, because I felt I didn't have the precision in my thumbs to race closely, and was always a bit on edge with whether I'd over correct, or miss a braking point and run in to someone etc., whereas with the wheel now even without ABS on (would have never even considered that on the controller) the car feels really planted and trustworthy and I'm happy racing really close to other cars without fear of messing up anyone's race with a silly mistake through a lack of dexterity, and instead just an actual lack of driving / racing skill, which I'm fine with! :)

Hope that helps give a bit of insight, happy to try and answer any more subjective questions. I'm using the wheel / pedals with a Playseat Trophy. For the type of driving I enjoy, the set-up is screaming out for a decent H pattern shifter (or an adapter for my TH8A ;)). My fingers are crossed.
That was a lot more info than I was expecting wow. Thanks for lots of details!

My issue with the G923 is even after my o-ring fix to fix the rattle chatter sound, it still gets a tiny bit chattery, don’t get me wrong it’s damn near silent now but you can sort of feel that chattering in the wheel only it’s just very muted. I think it just bugs me more since I know it was rattling and chattering before and now it doesn’t, so when it shows a hint of it I get frustrated like don’t you go rattling on me again you pos! Haha

Before the guys I race with could hear it clear as day and guaranteed they were annoyed by the sound but too nice to say anything as I had just got it. They can’t hear it anymore which is good. I like the pedals. The wheel is fine and comfortable and yeah the rotary dials I feel like you can’t quick turn them and it helps if you put a tiny bit of side pressure on as you turn for it to consistently work.

I tried running higher FFB torque on it but it feels like I start losing information so I’m running torque at 2 and sensitivity around 7. That’s the settings which I feel like I’m still getting info through corners. I can feel it slip, before on higher settings there was tension but it felt the same through the entire corner. The wheel is light but informative enough that I can race pretty good with it. I guess at times I think it would be nice to have a little more weight to the wheel. Definitely better than a controller.

How is the Pro for sound on its own, like if you played with the sound off on your tv, does it vibrate away and rumble through the play seat as well?
 
That was a lot more info than I was expecting wow. Thanks for lots of details!

....

How is the Pro for sound on its own, like if you played with the sound off on your tv, does it vibrate away and rumble through the play seat as well?
No problem, there's not a lot of rambling text reviews out there so happy to help :)

My GF would be better to ask about this, as she's just been playing on her Switch in the same room over the weekend whilst I've had headphones on with the wheel. Needless to say she wouldn't have wanted to do that next to the G25!

The only thing that arguably 'rumbles' would be TrueForce, and is a deliberate rumble or vibration over rumble strips. You could definitely hear this, but equally, you could turn the strength down or just filter it out entirely with a few turns of a dial mid-session, so it needn't be an issue.

Beyond that the wheel has a very quiet fan, you can hear the low sound of airflow as opposed to any fan noise.

The paddles have a reasonable clack to them when operated, that would be the noisiest part, or the little directional stick, that clicking is probably the loudest sound it makes.

The pedals are also silent, if you stamp the throttle into the bump stops you get a dull thud as opposed to anything overly intrusive, if you side stepped off them I'd imagine you'd get a metallic clack as they returned but that's quite an unusual driving style, although the clutch pedal would do this if clutch kicks are your thing.

There is no side to side shudder on straights, you can let off the wheel and it stays still. I checked and my dampener is actually at 20 (out of 100), my FFB Filter is at 1 (the lowest) and both of those can be used to dampen or filter out unwanted feedback if it occurs. I can't stress how nice and how useful it is to be able to just do this on the wheel as you're driving...
@letdown427, your review was no let-down at all!

Thank you for taking the time mate.
No worries mate, under promise and over deliver! ;)
 
Great write up of the benefits - thanks for taking the time to do that. The drivers that run the motors are operating at 4000Hz precisely so we can handle all of the info that the game sends to the wheel. It always shows when the developer takes the care and attention needed for great force feedback and we just want to make sure that the wheel honours the work that they do.
 
Great write up of the benefits - thanks for taking the time to do that. The drivers that run the motors are operating at 4000Hz precisely so we can handle all of the info that the game sends to the wheel. It always shows when the developer takes the care and attention needed for great force feedback and we just want to make sure that the wheel honours the work that they do.
I feel like I know the answer to this as there's a Nm setting, but is the TrueForce just done with the motor, or are additional rumblers or something? I guess it's a mixture of what you can see when playing and some subtlety in how the feedback is delivered, but it really does feel like you can feel in the wheel which side the rumble strip is on, it's really impressive.

One question, there's what could be labelled a shudder under 1 condition, specifically when tipping the car in to a 4 wheel slide a little over the grip limit, it feels like it could be tyre shake or as if the tyre is sort of skipping across the surface a bit between grip and slip if you can imagine how that would make the wheel react.

It seems to be able to be filtered out with the TrueForce filter (I'm still on the shipping firmware where it's all separate) so I just curious whether it's picking it up from the quite specific tyre screech that that condition causes, or whether it's coming from the FFB trying to represent tyre / grip behaviour? On this firmware it does feel like the TF Filter and the FFB Filter are inextricably linked, the TF setting does influence the overall feel even without any 'driving events' happening that would merit TF style feedback.

I'm a little nervous to upgrade the firmware simply because I'm so happy with how it feels now and the balance between FFB and TrueForce, that's my only reason for not plugging it in to my PC yet! :)
 
It's all produced by the servo motor - there's no additional inducers.

As you have it at the moment with the launch firmware, only the TF Filter (and TF Torque/Audio) will affect GT7. This is because Trueforce is a completely different interface from what we call legacy FFB - games use one or the other so if a game supports Trueforce then only the Trueforce settings apply. The common misconception is that Trueforce is just the extra vibrations, but it's actually the whole FFB interface, consisting of vibrotactile (what we call TF Audio) and kinaesthetic (the larger, lower frequency forces that we're all used to feeling on FFB wheels - just now it's HD :)).

On the newer firmware we've simplified the OLED menu to have just a single Torque and Filter setting, but under the hood the wheel knows which interface the game is using and adjusts the relevant setting.

As for the sensations you feel, we don't get much visibility into what they actually consist of. The developer decides what they're sending to the wheel (it could be either physics or audio data, or a mix of both) and we just get that as a stream of data for the wheel to handle.
 
No problem, there's not a lot of rambling text reviews out there so happy to help :)

My GF would be better to ask about this, as she's just been playing on her Switch in the same room over the weekend whilst I've had headphones on with the wheel. Needless to say she wouldn't have wanted to do that next to the G25!

The only thing that arguably 'rumbles' would be TrueForce, and is a deliberate rumble or vibration over rumble strips. You could definitely hear this, but equally, you could turn the strength down or just filter it out entirely with a few turns of a dial mid-session, so it needn't be an issue.

Beyond that the wheel has a very quiet fan, you can hear the low sound of airflow as opposed to any fan noise.

The paddles have a reasonable clack to them when operated, that would be the noisiest part, or the little directional stick, that clicking is probably the loudest sound it makes.

The pedals are also silent, if you stamp the throttle into the bump stops you get a dull thud as opposed to anything overly intrusive, if you side stepped off them I'd imagine you'd get a metallic clack as they returned but that's quite an unusual driving style, although the clutch pedal would do this if clutch kicks are your thing.

There is no side to side shudder on straights, you can let off the wheel and it stays still. I checked and my dampener is actually at 20 (out of 100), my FFB Filter is at 1 (the lowest) and both of those can be used to dampen or filter out unwanted feedback if it occurs. I can't stress how nice and how useful it is to be able to just do this on the wheel as you're driving...

No worries mate, under promise and over deliver! ;)
no no, not a ramble at all, lots of detail is good. Some reviews are just “whoa, oh wow, good wheel”. That doesn’t help much. I’ve purchased things before based off reviews like that and been thoroughly disappointed. Lol

although I’m still waiting for the pedal adapter before considering the wheel. Well pedal adapter or price reduction whichever comes first.
 
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It's all produced by the servo motor - there's no additional inducers.

As you have it at the moment with the launch firmware, only the TF Filter (and TF Torque/Audio) will affect GT7. This is because Trueforce is a completely different interface from what we call legacy FFB - games use one or the other so if a game supports Trueforce then only the Trueforce settings apply. The common misconception is that Trueforce is just the extra vibrations, but it's actually the whole FFB interface, consisting of vibrotactile (what we call TF Audio) and kinaesthetic (the larger, lower frequency forces that we're all used to feeling on FFB wheels - just now it's HD :)).

On the newer firmware we've simplified the OLED menu to have just a single Torque and Filter setting, but under the hood the wheel knows which interface the game is using and adjusts the relevant setting.

As for the sensations you feel, we don't get much visibility into what they actually consist of. The developer decides what they're sending to the wheel (it could be either physics or audio data, or a mix of both) and we just get that as a stream of data for the wheel to handle.
Riiiiight OK yep that makes sense, thanks for the clarification as I'd also ended up under that misconception for one reason or another, it didn't feel like the FFB Filter really did much.

So would I be correct in thinking the fact my TF Torque is only at 5Nm means that I'm only getting 5Nm and not the 11Nm that I'd set in FFB Torque.

This makes a lot of sense, I did feel like the TF settings had a much bigger influence on what I felt than the FFB ones :)

With certain cars (high downforce / high mechanical grip) I'm already a bit nervous at times when there's snap oversteer with the strength of the wheel, turns out I'm not even at half strength haha

No wonder you've unified the menu then, I'm so glad I actually mentioned it and that you're on the forum as I'd never have known, although maybe I'd have twigged when Assetto Corsa ripped my arms off (I'm assuming AC is not TrueForce?)
 
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