Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

Automatic Virtual Driver Position Calibration

Idea: What if Sony/Oculus/HTC in collaboration with Logitech/Fanatec/Trustmaster (wheel manufacturers) could enable the VR headset front camera's for locking to the Racing Wheels OLED or LCD screen showing a (QR) Marker for auto-adjusting seating position/ratio in VR.

Basically: Automatic VR Driver Position Calibration API. Could be a Generic/Industry standard API/Implementation even.

When the DDPRO came out I suggested via LinkedIn to KAZ /Hermen Hulst and the CEO of Fanatec to use the OLED screen on the Fanatec DD PRO as a marker. So when in VR mode the headsets camera's could lock the Oled marker and therefore auto adjust VR driver position to perfectly line-up. This is one of the challenges in VR and if done right adds greatly to full immersion.
Never got a reaction to my message. Did not expect one to be honest. Just dropped it in hope that they might pick up the idea in case their teams didn't have it on the Backlog somewhere already.

Fanatec or Logitech Pro for that matter would have to integrate a scenario:

When Automatic VR Driver Position Calibration API calls ->
Switch OLED to QR Marker pattern mode so VR headset camera's can lock QR marker _>
Give back approx VR driver distance / height to wheel/QR Marker.

PSVR might be able to simply recognize a wheels form factor and distance.
This would be even a stronger and simpler implementation.

@LOGI_Rich: Does some implementation like this ever crossed the teams mind and/or even made it to you backlog?

The Countdown for PSVR2 / GT7 has begon. Hyped and Ready here!
 
Last edited:
Yes, this kind of idea has been mooted internally (along with tonnes of other research in the VR space) but usually falls down due to one of our main requirements: it has to work for everyone, which includes G29/G920/G923 owners.
 
If you take into account the facts that you get an excellent QR mechanism that's metal and provides zero play, magnetic shifters, paddles, a non-cryptic OLED display, bleed-free rev lights, leather wheel, more as well as more-accurate torque etc. and that you'd have to shell out for many such things as separate purchases with Fanatec, I think you'll find that the price is actually reasonable.

Same applies to the pedals. The load-cell adjustment kit is included, for instance.
I know what you're saying - but I already have the Fanatec set here. For now the price gap is just that bit too much for me to justify the purchase. It might change if there's an offer coming in the future
 
Have done the firmware update so will be having a play this evening and likely tweaking the settings a bit starting from the recommended baseline.

Having put a few hours in, as much as I like the strength of the recommended settings, I felt like there was more feedback in the weird ones I ended up with (fortunately saved as a different profile!) and the transition between grip and slip and back again felt less snappy.

I'll likely start with the recommended ones this evening and see what difference the game level settings make first and work from there.

Turns out I forgot to post that, so here are some initial findings...



I was just lapping a stock GT86 around a dry Tsukuba on comfort hards as I thought this would be quite a communicative car and there's an array of corner speeds.

Vibration level seems to dictate whether the surface / engine 'noise' is present vibrating the wheel, and whether the rumble strip rumble is present. TF Audio setting then further tweaks this. I ended up with TF Audio up at 100 and the vibration level at 20. From tinkering I'd imagine this would give largely the same feel as rumble at 30 and TF audio at 60 or so. I went with the lower vibration level to reduce the engine rumble through the wheel but keep the rumble strip vibration, as that felt weirdly missing once it was tuned out.

I had the strength up at full (11Nm and FFB strength in game) purely to try and amplify the impact of the other settings I was tweaking. I tended to try the extremes of the range to try and maximise the difference so I could try to quantify in my mind what the settings changed and what they felt like.

FFB Filter was an interesting one. Set very low, there was a lot more movement / feel in the wheel, but set very low down it was also very mechanical feeling, it almost percussively moved, if you imagine someone doing the robot vs moving smoothly, it felt like that! It was distracting really, I didn't feel like I was getting any more information, just that the movements were very staccato and synthetic.



Part of my tweaking was to try and work out what this 'tyre shake' type feeling was when understeering or in a four wheel slide. It felt very much like a fake back and forth vibration to communicate that you're understeering. Which is helpful and all, and makes sense vibrating a controller as a tactile clue, but in my experience when you understeer a car, the wheel goes lighter and if anything the feel smooths out.

None of the vibration settings impacted it, TF Audio wasn't changing it. I was beginning to think this was just a hard coded 'feature' of the game to communicate understeer to players. Playing with the FFB Filter setting finally changed how this was presenting itself, and to my surprise, FFB Filter at 15 (full) stopped it. I was a little reluctant to run the filter so high as I felt I'd be smothering out other feedback, so set about lapping for a bit and playing with FFB Filter.

Setting FFB Filter to Auto made the understeer vibration feedback basically buzz the whole frame, having it around 6 - 8 it would angrily wobble the wheel back and forth (remember I have all my FFB settings cranked to the max to exagerrate what happens).

Having done a few laps at 15, I tried it at 14 and even if it was giving more feedback somewhere, I then just found myself too distracted by the understeer vibration. So for the moment it seems I'll be running that setting at 15!



Dampener is a really interesting setting. Too low and the wheel can turn so quickly it's too synthetic. If you go into a corner, boot the throttle and let the wheel go, the car barely rotates about 20 degrees before the wheel has shot around and corrected it and speared you off the other way. Front wheels do self correct, but I think they'd need some remarkable caster settings and lightweight steering components to spin that freely. Set dampener too high and it feels like someone has filled your wheel with treacle. Perform the same "look ma, no hands" trick as above, and the car spins around whilst the wheel helplessly rotates around at roughly the same speed as a G25.

There is a middle ground that to me feels realistic, but the value changes depending on the FFB strength. With everything on full I was ending up with the dampener set around 40. I suspect it could have gone higher. Dropping the FFB strength in game to 1 (you could likely drop the wheel torque to ~4Nm for a similar effect) you got that disconnected treacle feeling and dampener felt better down around 20. I'm sure it's quite a personal thing, and perhaps it just reflects the slightly older / less sophisticated cars I'm used to driving in real life..!



I ended up lowering the FFB Torque to 8Nm (and dampener around 30 ish), but it was hard to settle here, and I feel like I'll have some different profiles set-up for different cars (or rather, different tyres, comfort / sports / slicks) as the higher torque settings feel more appropriate for something on slicks with unassisted steering and downforce, but then feel wildly excessive for a 70s coupé on comfort hards... It feels like the game isn't giving a broad enough spectrum of force, which I can understand as a 3Nm wheel doesn't have the range available for example, so some simple profiles may be the most sensible compromise. It feels like an appropriate range is ~5Nm ish for comfort tyres, ~7Nm for sports and then go nuts for the slicks.



One thing with the wheel, you can instantly 'feel' changes in tyres and suspension just with the way the car turns in. It's remarkable the jump in precision going to a sports tyre over the (far more road car feeling) comforts.




@LOGI_Rich whilst playing about with everything at high settings, I've encountered what seems like a bit of a bug. As above all the FFB strength / sensitivity settings are maxed in game and FFB Strength is at 11Nm. Vibation feedback is at 20 but I don't think plays a part in the bug. TF Audio at 100. Dampener at 40 as above but again, changes to it made no difference.

Anyway, I thought this was related to constantly tweaking settings up and down, but once I'd settled, restarted the wheel and drove for a bit, it manifests again.

So with the above (high!) settings, drive for 10 - 15 minutes or so, I think it escalates with time but 10 minutes was enough to cause it. I've found that with FFB Filter set to 10 or higher (it scales with the setting, and again, may scale with length of drive), you get a twitching in the wheel even on straights. I thought this was odd and didn't understand how more filter introduced noise, until I paused the game. The wheel was still twitching. Exited the track session entirely back to the main menu, still twitching away. Turned filter below 10 or to auto, twitching stopped. Put it back up to 15 (still in the menu, not on track at all) and the twitching continued as before.

Only fix is to turn the wheel off and back on again, which completely clears the twitches.

Happy to do some more investigation if it'd help. It feels like there's perhaps some deliberate historesis as part of the FFB Filter which ends up in a bit of a feedback loop or something along those lines.
 
Last edited:
Can anyone tell me how to add Forza MS 7 as I can't locate the EXE due to Microsoft burying it... and G Hub not finding via "Scan Now" option, thx?
 
Last edited:
Can anyone tell me how to add Forza MS 7 as I can't locate the EXE due to Microsoft burying it... and G Hub not finding via "Scan Now" option, thx?
OKAY I guess I made the classic mistake as this is a PS version of the pro wheel it wouldn't show up in Forza MS7 anyway so I take it that's why when I scan it's not being picked up by the G hub?
 
Last edited:
@optical10 Windows Store games won't appear in G HUB. They're locked away behind a secure part of your hard drive and you have to allow admin access to those folders. It's not needed at all though because everything you need to do is in FM7's menus. You have to manually assign all of your controls and then the wheel will work fine. Unfortunately, there's no way to remap the menu navigation controls so you'll need to keep your keyboard handy for that. Something to look forward to being sorted when the new Motorsport comes out later this year!

@letdown427 Yes, we're aware of this issue. We're going to address it in a firmware update which is something we're working on at the moment. No ETA yet on that though, I'm afraid.
 

@LOGI_Rich thanks for your quick reply on the last issue. So I'm not Wasting time this weekend Can this Pro wheel in PS [mine] or xbox versions compatibility modes work with NFS unbound?​


I'm only persevering as this article says that there's been some issues with the G923 wheel and other non pro wheels so I thought I would give it a try
 
FFB Filter was an interesting one. Set very low, there was a lot more movement / feel in the wheel, but set very low down it was also very mechanical feeling, it almost percussively moved, if you imagine someone doing the robot vs moving smoothly, it felt like that! It was distracting really, I didn't feel like I was getting any more information, just that the movements were very staccato and synthetic.
IMHO the filter's equivalent to an audio low-pass one, so your "percussive" / "staccato" observation and the effect of the filter stand true with the analogy.

Raising the value of the setting lowers the cutoff frequency.

Correct Rich?
 

@LOGI_Rich thanks for your quick reply on the last issue. So I'm not Wasting time this weekend Can this Pro wheel in PS [mine] or xbox versions compatibility modes work with NFS unbound?​


I'm only persevering as this article says that there's been some issues with the G923 wheel and other non pro wheels so I thought I would give it a try
On Windows only the G29/G920 work and on Xbox only the G920. The only version of Unbound that supports all wheels is PlayStation and even there the torque on the Pro is weirdly limited. It’s all been fed back to EA.

@Monkey Man correct!
 
Last edited:
On Windows only the G29/G920 work and on Xbox only the G920. The only version of Unbound that supports all wheels is PlayStation and even there the torque on the Pro is weirdly limited. It’s all been fed back to EA.
cheers m8, now it makes sense. Was hoping to sort it with a future xbox version of Pro wheel only purchase thinking it was a Logi hardware xbox / Microsoft issue but....... May wait for the PlayStation sale for duplicate purchase as there's no PS to PC cross save / play :( .
 
OK I have now given in and ordered the wheel and pedals and will test it - I currently have the Fanatec GT DD Pro.
If I don't like it I'll give it back, otherwise I'll keep it and sell my Fanatec gear. I'm focused on GT and will play that 98% of the time. Let's see 😉
 
I revamped my ACC sim rig over Christmas with a Logitech Pro Wheel and pedals and switched from Xbox series X to PC in the process. I really like the feel of the wheel and pedals compared to my old Thrustmaster T150 (which I used to use with PS4), a huge upgrade :)

I upgraded the firmware of the wheel with G hub but ran into a couple of issues in ACC on PC:

1. ACC (version 1.8.20 at the time) kept crashing to the desktop after a lap or two and the FFB/Trueforce vibrations were crazy strong. After I uninstalled G hub and disabled the “manufacturer extras” under wheel settings in ACC the constant crashing finally stopped (I guess it’s using directinput now, it’s a shame it kept crashing with Trueforce enabled).

2. My FFB in ACC is weak when I turn on the wheel prior to starting ACC, the FFB feels as if the car has no grip but I can feel the kerbs etc. After I power cycle the wheelbase while in game, the FFB feels firm and I can feel when the rear loses grip. I had a similar issue on XBSX in ACC with the wheel, I always had to power cycle the wheel while in game to get proper FFB.

@LOGI_Rich Are these known issues? Do you have any suggestions how to remedy my issues with the Pro Wheel and pedals?
 
Last edited:
@lechbialek Let's start with the issue you had in ACC on Xbox - that was a problem caused by an update to the Xbox OS and was fixed with the most recent firmware update for the wheel, so don't conflate that with the issues you're having on PC :)

I'm kind of intrigued that you're getting any FFB without G HUB installed, to be honest. You're correct in stating that if you set the Manufacturer Extras to False and restart the game that it then uses DirectInput, but just to link the wheel with DirectInput needs a mini driver installed, which essentially provides the hooks to do that.

So, first step is to install G HUB and see if that helps with your issue in point 2. Then try enabling manufacturer extras in ACC and turn the TF Audio on the wheel down to where it should be (it's never supposed to be overwhelming the experience! - I recommend around 20 or lower) and see if you still get the same issue. I'm also interested to know if you're trying the wheel in other games and getting the same issues there.
 
Last edited:
OK I have now given in and ordered the wheel and pedals and will test it - I currently have the Fanatec GT DD Pro.
If I don't like it I'll give it back, otherwise I'll keep it and sell my Fanatec gear. I'm focused on GT and will play that 98% of the time. Let's see 😉
What made you purchase one? Is it really that much better than the GT DD Pro?
 
@lechbialek Let's start with the issue you had in ACC on Xbox - that was a problem caused by an update to the Xbox OS and was fixed with the most recent firmware update for the wheel, so don't conflate that with the issues you're having on PC :)

I'm kind of intrigued that you're getting any FFB without G HUB installed, to be honest. You're correct in stating that if you set the Manufacturer Extras to False and restart the game that it then uses DirectInput, but just to link the wheel with DirectInput needs a mini driver installed, which essentially provides the hooks to do that.

So, first step is to install G HUB and see if that helps with your issue in point 2. Then try enabling manufacturer extras in ACC and turn the TF Audio on the wheel down to where it should be (it's never supposed to be overwhelming the experience!) and see if you still get the same issue. I'm also interested to know if you're trying the wheel in other games and getting the same issues there.
@LOGI_Rich thanks for the quick reply!

I haven’t tried my wheel with the Xbox since upgrading the firmware. But I will try tonight to see if the FFB works correctly now in ACC on Xbox. I could use that as a point of reference to fix my issues with ACC on PC.

In checked the device manager of Windows 10 there are Logitech drivers loaded for the Pro Wheel and in the logfile of ACC I can see the wheel is recognized as a directinput device.

I have tried the wheel with F1 22 on Xbox and didn’t get any FFB, but that was probably related to the Xbox issue. I also tried F1 22 on PC and got wheel input (if I remember correctly) but no FFB and the pedals were not working correctly after selecting the Pro Wheel preset in F1 22 on PC, but this was without having G Hub installed… (so I guess I need to have G hub installed for FFB in F1 22 to work but my focus is on ACC which kept crashing with G Hub installed…)

I will try installing G hub again and turning on Trueforce/Manufacturer extras in ACC on PC tonight… and will report back, I appreciate your help :)
 
Last edited:
Is anyone running the Pro wheel on a Playseat Challenge? How much do you need to dial down the torque to make it usable?

I don't have the space (or the wife quality) to permit a permanently set up rig in our small apartment so I'm stuck with the Challenge or perhaps another foldable rig solution if anyone has any suggestions...
 
Last edited:
Is anyone running the Pro wheel on a Playseat Challenge? How much do you need to dial down the torque to make it usable?

I don't have to space (or the wife quality) to permit a permanently set up rig in our small apartment so I'm stuck with the Challenge or perhaps another foldable rig solution if anyone has any suggestions...
If it helps I'm using an 8NM DD Pro on a Playseat Challenge at 100%. I have bought some braces for the wheel deck (by Indigo Lime, you can find them on eBay) to prevent flexing and it's fine. I appreciate max FFB on the G Pro is higher but should be ok.
 
Last edited:
Anyone know if there's coupons or anything available to get the set for a little cheaper? I see there's a slight discount when you get the pedals and wheel base together but saw some other people saying there was other discounts to be had. Not sure. Also funny that they're selling a 3 pedal setup but there's no shifter yet lol.
 
Anyone know if there's coupons or anything available to get the set for a little cheaper? I see there's a slight discount when you get the pedals and wheel base together but saw some other people saying there was other discounts to be had. Not sure. Also funny that they're selling a 3 pedal setup but there's no shifter yet lol.
I think they changed most if not all coupons to not work for the Pro Wheel and pedals...
 
Guys is it possible to use the TLCM pedals with the G Pro base on PS5? If not, maybe with a drivehub? 🤔
 
Guys is it possible to use the TLCM pedals with the G Pro base on PS5? If not, maybe with a drivehub? 🤔
Drivehub doesn't support the Pro Wheel as things stand plus, even if it did, you're going to lose the key feature of the Pro Wheel by connecting it into Drivehub: Trueforce.
 
Drivehub doesn't support the Pro Wheel as things stand plus, even if it did, you're going to lose the key feature of the Pro Wheel by connecting it into Drivehub: Trueforce.
I see… welllll….. 😅 as soon as I sell my DD Pro that will be it then… the pedals seem way overpriced though but we’ll see. Thank you for the reply Rich 😉 and for the good support around here. It’s important and great 👍🏻
 
@LOGI_Rich thanks for the quick reply!

I haven’t tried my wheel with the Xbox since upgrading the firmware. But I will try tonight to see if the FFB works correctly now in ACC on Xbox. I could use that as a point of reference to fix my issues with ACC on PC.

In checked the device manager of Windows 10 there are Logitech drivers loaded for the Pro Wheel and in the logfile of ACC I can see the wheel is recognized as a directinput device.

I have tried the wheel with F1 22 on Xbox and didn’t get any FFB, but that was probably related to the Xbox issue. I also tried F1 22 on PC and got wheel input (if I remember correctly) but no FFB and the pedals were not working correctly after selecting the Pro Wheel preset in F1 22 on PC, but this was without having G Hub installed… (so I guess I need to have G hub installed for FFB in F1 22 to work but my focus is on ACC which kept crashing with G Hub installed…)

I will try installing G hub again and turning on Trueforce/Manufacturer extras in ACC on PC tonight… and will report back, I appreciate your help :)
@LOGI_Rich

I tried the pro wheel with XBSX after the firmware update and it seems to work well now with ACC and F1 22 on Xbox.

However on PC it seems F1 22 is FUBAR even with G hub installed. I selected the Pro wheel preset in game but nothing works…

ACC started crashing again with G hub installed and manufacturer extras enabled. Within two laps it crashes to the desktop every time :(

I am wondering what to do next?

1. I noticed in the ACC logs the final entry before the crashes is something about “stutter”. I found online that my AMD 5800x3D CPU could need a microcode patch that would help stuttering, but it seems mostly related to Windows 11 and I am still on 10 but I could upgrade the BIOS to apply the CPU patch.

2. I could do a full reinstall of Windows 10 and start over completely. The PC is dedicated to ACC and the simrig so shouldn’t take too long, only Steam is installed. Do I need to install drivers or G hub before I connect the pro wheel?

Anything else I could try to get the pro wheel working properly on PC with Trueforce enabled?
 
Last edited:
F1 22 - Nothing works? Or just the steering? I remember that in the in-game profile had only included support for one of the versions of the Pro Wheel so you still had to manually reconfigure the assignments (and for the one that was supported, the pedals weren't correctly mapped!). If you assign all of the steering and pedal functions, does it then work? F1 22 is a Trueforce title on PC as well, so interested to see if you still get crash issues.

ACC - try renaming the controls.json file in your C:\Users\username\Documents\Assetto Corsa Competizione\Config folder to controlsOLD.json then starting the game. You may need to reassign your controls, but see if that corrects the crashing.

Also, interested to hear if you're trying with other titles.
 
I see… welllll….. 😅 as soon as I sell my DD Pro that will be it then… the pedals seem way overpriced though but we’ll see. Thank you for the reply Rich 😉 and for the good support around here. It’s important and great 👍🏻

What were the issues you had with the DD Pro? I heard the FFB and road feel wasn't the best.

Drivehub doesn't support the Pro Wheel as things stand plus, even if it did, you're going to lose the key feature of the Pro Wheel by connecting it into Drivehub: Trueforce.

Rich is there a window when you think the compatible shifter will release for thr Pro Wheelbase?
 
The adapter that we've mentioned that enables use of the Driving Force Shifter is imminent.
I feel like I know the answer here, but just for the sake of it, would it be fair to assume the G25's shifter won't be compatible with the upcoming adapter?
 

Latest Posts

Back