Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[bypo]

What were the issues you had with the DD Pro? I heard the FFB and road feel wasn't the best.

Check the DD Pro topic, ive made a recent post 👍🏻

 

[lechbialek]

F1 22 - Nothing works? Or just the steering? I remember that in the in-game profile had only included support for one of the versions of the Pro Wheel so you still had to manually reconfigure the assignments (and for the one that was supported, the pedals weren't correctly mapped!). If you assign all of the steering and pedal functions, does it then work? F1 22 is a Trueforce title on PC as well, so interested to see if you still get crash issues.

ACC - try renaming the controls.json file in your C:\Users\username\Documents\Assetto Corsa Competizione\Config folder to controlsOLD.json then starting the game. You may need to reassign your controls, but see if that corrects the crashing.

Also, interested to hear if you're trying with other titles.

@LOGI_Rich

I must have been naive to assume the Pro Wheel preset in F1 22 was supposed to work out of the box since the Pro wheel (Xbox and PC version) was recognized ingame... I tried again and after manually configuring the pedals, wheel and all buttons it works for the most part. The FFB feels good and comes in gradually and the Trueforce on low settings adds another layer which is nice. However, in flashback/replay mode the camera always looks backwards unless I hold the clutch, which is really awkward but I can't seem to correct this in the settings (any help is appreciated!).

ACC still crashes to desktop every single time with Trueforce enabled and the TF Audio kinda feels like a electric shaver even on low settings I tried renaming the controls.json (like you suggested) but this didn't fix the crashing.

I tried just about everything I could find online today:

• Install latest Windows 10 updates
• Installed optional AMD firmware in Windows update
• Disabled AMD fTPM in BIOS/UEFI
• Disabled full screen optimizations (Windows compatibility settings on ACC binary)
• BIOS upgrade including AMD microcode patch for CPU
• Disabled main board HD audio in BIOS which I wasn't using
• Disable Multi-Plane Overlay with regedit to add registry key for OverlayTestMode = 5

The only thing I haven't done yet is reinstall Windows, but the PC is brand new and the Windows is install is fresh, the only software installed are drivers, G hub, Steam, ACC and F1 22...

Options left:

• Clean install Windows
• Contact Kunos Simulazioni
• Maybe there is some debug mode on G hub?
• Return the Pro Wheel and pedals and get something else
• Accept Trueforce won't work and disable manufacturer extras...

I would love to get Trueforce working on the Pro Wheel without crashing ACC.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Here's a slightly random suggestion: you may be aware that the RPM LEDs don't work by default in ACC. There is a workaround which involves simply going to the control options of the game, don't do anything and then go back out and start your race, whereupon they will work. I'm curious to hear if doing that has any bearing on this!

Additional question: are you able to test with a different audio device. If you're using a USB headset right now, are you able to switch to the motherboard's onboard audio to see if that makes any difference?

 

[hawkeyez]

I know what you're saying - but I already have the Fanatec set here. For now the price gap is just that bit too much for me to justify the purchase. It might change if there's an offer coming in the future

I added a Logitech G Pro into my cart last night. Canadian. Total is $1600+. With taxes I’d be over $1700 maybe even $1800. That’s hard to justify the price to play GT7. I could buy three T300’s. Or A T300 an another PS5. Or two T300’s and another PS5 and invite friends over to race side by side. If that wheel was $1000 I’d be all over it. I just can’t bring myself to spend that much money on an accessory for a game.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

I feel like I know the answer here, but just for the sake of it, would it be fair to assume the G25's shifter won't be compatible with the upcoming adapter?

It's not part of the scope of the project and so isn't tested. The G27 shifter I have here works, but there are variances between the shifters over the years so hence we're not declaring compatibility.

 

[timekiller001]

What made you purchase one? Is it really that much better than the GT DD Pro?

That's what I was hoping for. Now that it's here I have to say I can't really use it. Trueforce makes my whole rig shake and that doesn't go well with my wooden floor - sooner or later my neighbors would be annoyed because it's LOUD. Apart from that it didn't seem to be that different, even though I have to say I didn't fiddle around the settings too much because of the aforementioned vibration issue. So I'll return it and stick to the DD Pro.

Well, it was worth a try. And the issue I have doesn't have to be an issue for others.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Turn it down. It shouldn't be at the level that it's shaking everything - it should just be a subtle level of feedback that adds more info, just like you get in a real car.

 

[timekiller001]

Turn it down. It shouldn't be at the level that it's shaking everything - it should just be a subtle level of feedback that adds more info, just like you get in a real car.

It even happens at the lowest level, it was not fun

 

[Turboracer]

It is pefect here with tf level at 25 on my playseat Trophy. What kind of rig do you have? What are your settings?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Also remember that the Vibration setting in GT7's controller menu also affects it, so turn that down to something like 25-35 from its default of 100.

 

[Turboracer]

Also remember that the Vibration setting in GT7's controller menu also affects it, so turn that down to something like 25-35 from its default of 100.

Crucial, but easily overlooked. @LOGI_Rich: what are your ideal suggested wheel and gt7 settings? Since you led Development I would realy like to make a profile with your favorite gt7 settings. Thanks allot in advance!

 

[LOGI_Rich]

For me, 35 Vibration in GT7's settings with 25-35 on TF Audio on the wheel. I run the wheel at 11Nm strength but with in-game Max Torque set to 5 and FFB sensitivity at 1. Basically the settings that are on our settings page (guess who wrote them )

Oh, and it's worth pointing out that @timekiller001 should update the firmware by connecting the wheel to a PC running G HUB, because it may be that they weren't turning down the correct setting. The one to adjust is TF Audio, but if they're running the launch firmware then they will have separate FFB Torque and TF Torque settings, where only the TF Torque setting applies, because GT7 is using Trueforce.

 

[Turboracer]

For me, 35 Vibration in GT7's settings with 25-35 on TF Audio on the wheel. I run the wheel at 11Nm strength but with in-game Max Torque set to 5 and FFB sensitivity at 1. Basically the settings that are on our settings page (guess who wrote them )

Oh, and it's worth pointing out that @timekiller001 should update the firmware by connecting the wheel to a PC running G HUB.

Thanks for confirming it! 👊👍👌

 

[timekiller001]

Firmware update was the first thing I did
But I didn't check the vibration setting, that might have been it

 

[Turboracer]

Thats why this forum is great. And even more so to have @LOGI_Rich actively around giving us all the tips and answers👌

 

[lechbialek]

Here's a slightly random suggestion: you may be aware that the RPM LEDs don't work by default in ACC. There is a workaround which involves simply going to the control options of the game, don't do anything and then go back out and start your race, whereupon they will work. I'm curious to hear if doing that has any bearing on this!

Additional question: are you able to test with a different audio device. If you're using a USB headset right now, are you able to switch to the motherboard's onboard audio to see if that makes any difference?

@LOGI_Rich

Finally some good news! I did a complete Windows reinstall and only instaled AMD chipset and GPU drivers and no onboard or USB audio drivers.

Now both F1 22 and ACC work with Trueforce enabled 😎 I have to admit I have TF Audio turned way down but overall I’m really happy my new rig is finally working and running well at 144FPS 💪🏻

There is still one weird issue left with ACC and Trueforce… Whenever the car goes from standing still to moving and from moving to standing still completely there is some stuttering. The first few frames when the car starts moving and stops are VERY choppy… But with Trueforce (manufacturer extras) disabled in ACC this doesn’t happen!!

Could it be that Trueforce gets disabled when the car is stationary and enabling somehow messes with the ACC game engine? Is this a know bug?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Glad it’s working for you now but I’d love to know what was causing it!

The stuttering is something that Kunos are aware of and will address in a future patch.

 

[lechbialek]

Glad it’s working for you now but I’d love to know what was causing it!

The stuttering is something that Kunos are aware of and will address in a future patch.

I will reinstall my USB audio drivers after the weekend and will let you know if the issues return.

But first I finally want to do some racing over the weekend 😇

 

[Monkey Man]

For me, 35 Vibration in GT7's settings with 25-35 on TF Audio on the wheel. I run the wheel at 11Nm strength but with in-game Max Torque set to 5 and FFB sensitivity at 1. Basically the settings that are on our settings page (guess who wrote them )

When I saw this I thought, "Hey, wasn't the recommendation for TF 100?", so I checked my saved PDF from November and sure-enough, the settings on the site originally said 11 / 25 / 100 for Filt / Damp / TF Audio.

Now all three have changed:
8 / 15 / 35.

So glad you posted your settings Rich and that I noticed a discrepancy; I'd not have known otherwise that the recommended set had changed.

Thanks mate.

EDIT:
Heads-up for those who play WRC or ACC:
WRC10 and ACC's recommended settings haven't changed.
Nothing up for WRCG yet.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Yep, we will revisit settings and adjust them based on things that change in the games sometimes.

 

[Sturdy]

Firmware update was the first thing I did
But I didn't check the vibration setting, that might have been it

You'll have no doubt checked it by now already, but just to confirm what others have said, you'll find the Vibration setting in GT7 has an enormous influence on the TrueForce 'effects' such as engine related vibration (ludicrously overdone with Vibration on 100 lol) and the rumble strips.

If you don't want the engine related stuff, I found setting Vibration down to about 20ish pretty much completely got rid of it even with TF Audio at 100 on the wheel. You get a sensation of a 'vibration' that to me feels like the surface noise you get in a car with hydraulically assisted power steering but that isn't strong enough to make any noise, but you still get the nice rumble strip vibration.

 

[timekiller001]

You'll have no doubt checked it by now already, but just to confirm what others have said, you'll find the Vibration setting in GT7 has an enormous influence on the TrueForce 'effects' such as engine related vibration (ludicrously overdone with Vibration on 100 lol) and the rumble strips.

If you don't want the engine related stuff, I found setting Vibration down to about 20ish pretty much completely got rid of it even with TF Audio at 100 on the wheel. You get a sensation of a 'vibration' that to me feels like the surface noise you get in a car with hydraulically assisted power steering but that isn't strong enough to make any noise, but you still get the nice rumble strip vibration.

I actually already put it back in the box before the vibration setting came up and I wanted to drive, and changing the rig from one wheel and pedal set to another will take up some time.
I'll give it another to later with only the wheel, as unlike the pedals it's changed quite easily and I can use the clutch pedals on the wheel to simulate throttle and brake for that test

@LOGI_Rich just one suggestion, on the site with the recommended settings a hint for the vibration settings would be nice - I didn't see it in the images added on the side. I thought it was one image, but it turns out there are two, and in the one I opened (the lower one) the vibration setting isn't visible

 

[notarjy]

Yep, we will revisit settings and adjust them based on things that change in the games sometimes.

Have you had a change to revisit FH5? I notice the site says to use G923 mode but the game seems to recognize the wheel in pro mode since I got my wheel last week.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Busted! Forgot to update that one!

 

[notarjy]

Thanks Rich, I will keep an eye out for updated settings on the page.

I have a few more questions as a new user trying to understand behavior of the wheel. I have the Playstation version and use it with my PS5 and PC for GT7 and Forza respectively.

I have noticed sometimes when starting my wheel in PS5 mode that the angle is set to 900* even though my profile is saved for 1080. I was using 900* in PC mode set to GHUB settings, seems that either I or the software somehow overwrote the onboard profile? Usually I set it back to 1080 on the display but it still seems to revert. Sometimes I forget to check so Im unsure if it happens every time, something I will continue to keep an eye on.

I have also noticed sometimes in PS5 mode I will walk away from the rig leaving it idle, and the wheel seems to go into a sleep mode. When I return, the wheel wakes up as expected with all the same settings but the FFB will feel much weaker unless I properly power cycle the wheel with the red button. I have started to build the habit of fully shutting down the wheel whenever I walk away from the rig, though of course this sometimes introduces the angle reverting to 900* issue I described above.

Thanks again for your help Rich

 

[timekiller001]

OK short update from my side:
The vibration setting that @LOGI_Rich pointed out was the main cause of my issues. The vibration was set to 100 (I guess it's the default?). And since it's in a completely different menu in GT7 you really need to look for it to find it.
With the recommended settings it was much better and more refined. But: I still don't think it's the big difference I was led to believe by some reviews. This is only my subjective opinion and may be different for you!
I got the Logitech Pro with the return option in mind and wouldn't have gotten it without it, because I intended to keep it only if I really feel it's a big step up from the Fanatec, especially with the price difference in mind. I don't think it is so I'll keep my Fanatec. But the experience might or will be different for you!

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@notarjy The PlayStation SDK will set certain aspects on game startup - it's a legacy thing and it's going to take time for game devs to adjust to the fact that they now have a wheel that has its onboard settings. Interestingly enough, GT7 says that it's set the wheel to 900 on the OLED but if you actually turn the wheel all the way you'll find that the soft stops are at the 540 angle, as they would be for a 1080 degree wheel.

The wake from sleep point... what is the Strength set to on the wheel and what are the Max Torque settings in GT7's menu? When this happens, if you go to the OLED and make a single step value change in the Strength does it then change back to where you're expecting?

 

[RJ83]

I added a Logitech G Pro into my cart last night. Canadian. Total is $1600+. With taxes I’d be over $1700 maybe even $1800. That’s hard to justify the price to play GT7. I could buy three T300’s. Or A T300 an another PS5. Or two T300’s and another PS5 and invite friends over to race side by side. If that wheel was $1000 I’d be all over it. I just can’t bring myself to spend that much money on an accessory for a game.

It's like saying i'm not buying a Ferrari because i can buy 10 Fiats for the same price. They are very different products. If you don't want to spend that much then don't do it.

What does frustrate me a bit is no word on peripherals. Not even an announcement or a date. A wheel of this quality NEEDS a shifter alongside it. I am done waiting and ordered an SHH shifter instead. Logitech is losing customers for their eventual peripherals this way.
The only thing we hear about is the adapter for the existing Logitech shifter, but that is not really a match for the Pro wheel. (The SHH is not much more expensive but i hear good things.)

 

[notarjy]

@LOGI_Rich Makes sense about the game setting the angle, good to know it's not a bug with the wheel at least which was my worry.

I have my wheel strength set to 8NM, and I believe the max torque in the GT7 menu is set to 5 as you have shown on the recommended settings site but I will have to double check that later today when I go for a drive. I don't remember changing the strength on the display correcting the issue but I will try that again next time I run into the issue.

 

[hawkeyez]

It's like saying i'm not buying a Ferrari because i can buy 10 Fiats for the same price. They are very different products. If you don't want to spend that much then don't do it.

What does frustrate me a bit is no word on peripherals. Not even an announcement or a date. A wheel of this quality NEEDS a shifter alongside it. I am done waiting and ordered an SHH shifter instead. Logitech is losing customers for their eventual peripherals this way.
The only thing we hear about is the adapter for the existing Logitech shifter, but that is not really a match for the Pro wheel. (The SHH is not much more expensive but i hear good things.)

Not really, I could make two rig setups running ps5’s (already own two tv’s and one ps5) and t300‘s for that price and have a whole lot of fun. In other words I could buy a Ferrari that seats one for myself or buy all my friends fiats and run around a local track type thing.