Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel
- Thread starter timekiller001
- 4,928 comments
- 747,777 views
Are the pedals on a rig or the floor? For floor use the default are fine, but if you’re in a rig then definitely switch out the large beige foam piece for at least the yellow. Also if you’re in a rig then I tend to have at least 45 brake force, but it’s entirely a personal preference based on your strength and how much finesse you have. I tend to be pet firm with the brake so ratcheting up the brake force helps prevent me bottoming out the brake axis and locking up the brakes.
- 46
- Tucson, AZ
- TSLA_Driver
My pedals are mounted on my rig (good question). Thanks I'll try the swap.
As to not bottoming out the brakes, that is something I need to watch out for. In practice or after adjusting settings I try to look at the force indicator on the wheel, but I know in the heat of the race I'm probably hitting the pedal harder. Other than car behavior is there a way to tell if I've locked up?
It depends on which title you’re racing in - some will send brake lock up through the wheel. A general rule is to just make it hard to hit 100% axis output and we’ve included a live test function on the brake force screen in the OLED (provided you have the Pro Pedals connected into the wheel). As you press the brake you’ll see a horizontal line appear across the bottom of the screen which is the output of the brake axis.
Sturdy
Premium
- 940
- England
- js427
I have the two hardest elastomers and then the softer foam (the insert it originally came with) as I liked that initial squish feeling as I tend to drive more road cars in GT7.
I currently have the brake force at 35, but plan to up it a bit as I get used to it.
Mine is on a rig also.
Best suggestion I can offer in GT7 at least is turn ABS off, and lap Tsukuba in the rainy time trial and let it dry up.
You get a lot of audio information about tyre lockup in GT7, and the rain means you'll be treading on egg shells initially, and then as it dries you can press harder and harder, after about 30-35 laps it's normally an almost completely dry line at which point at least at the end of the straight before the long right hander you're braking at full strength (briefly!)
That may be a bit excessive.. Personally I'd say turn ABS off and listen, you'll develop a much better 'feel' for the braking performance than just having ABS on and mashing the pedal searching for 100% force.
Think of it like driving without traction control, you learn a better feel for the grip and modulating the throttle with it off, ABS is the same for braking!
Once you're used to it, I will say putting ABS back on to weak you can then enjoy stress free and consistent braking without the fear of locking up, but I actually miss the better feedback with ABS off, but if going for a laptime I find it's much easier to push hard and consistently with it on Weak.
As an update to earlier posts, have now tried it at an actual 11Nm and yeah... That's a workout lol Other than parking manoeuvres in a Countach I can't imagine anything has steering that heavy!
I've found that straight line oscillation is possible with high wheel torque, high downforce and high speed, eg a 787B at Le Mans, so may need to set a profile up for that sort of car, will do a firmware upgrade at some point soon just in case. Typing this out I've just remembered it could also be my FFB settings in GT7 are now way too high now that I'm using the TureForce FFB settings correctly...
I currently have the brake force at 35, but plan to up it a bit as I get used to it.
Mine is on a rig also.
Best suggestion I can offer in GT7 at least is turn ABS off, and lap Tsukuba in the rainy time trial and let it dry up.
You get a lot of audio information about tyre lockup in GT7, and the rain means you'll be treading on egg shells initially, and then as it dries you can press harder and harder, after about 30-35 laps it's normally an almost completely dry line at which point at least at the end of the straight before the long right hander you're braking at full strength (briefly!)
That may be a bit excessive.. Personally I'd say turn ABS off and listen, you'll develop a much better 'feel' for the braking performance than just having ABS on and mashing the pedal searching for 100% force.
Think of it like driving without traction control, you learn a better feel for the grip and modulating the throttle with it off, ABS is the same for braking!
Once you're used to it, I will say putting ABS back on to weak you can then enjoy stress free and consistent braking without the fear of locking up, but I actually miss the better feedback with ABS off, but if going for a laptime I find it's much easier to push hard and consistently with it on Weak.
As an update to earlier posts, have now tried it at an actual 11Nm and yeah... That's a workout lol Other than parking manoeuvres in a Countach I can't imagine anything has steering that heavy!
I've found that straight line oscillation is possible with high wheel torque, high downforce and high speed, eg a 787B at Le Mans, so may need to set a profile up for that sort of car, will do a firmware upgrade at some point soon just in case. Typing this out I've just remembered it could also be my FFB settings in GT7 are now way too high now that I'm using the TureForce FFB settings correctly...
Sturdy
Premium
- 940
- England
- js427
- 405
- Houston, TX
- TheOneDonJuan
How is the driving sensations on GT7 with the Logitech? I've heard from Fanatec people that the GT wheel/base leaves a lot to be desired with the FFB/sensations (rumble strips, expansion joints). Right now on a G29 and will be upgrading soon but torn between the Fanatec and the Logitech. FFB is more important to me than a deep ecosystem of wheels.
- 46
- Tucson, AZ
- TSLA_Driver
I went from the G29 to the Pro Wheel and pedal set from Logitech. I can't compere to the Fanatic products, but OMG I am very happy with the upgrade. I've been using this wheel for almost four months now. My recollection is I was blow away by the feedback in the wheel and the more nuanced brake.
- 142
- Netherlands
- Airwolf303
Did some good reading here the last weeks. I had the PSVR2 pre-ordered as soon as this was possible.
When Sony confirmed @ CES GT7 was coming to PSVR2 I ordered the G PRO Wheel & Pedals + Playseat Trophy.
Just assembled everything. The whole set oozes HQ. After some adjustments I tuned in the ideal seating position.
Love the design and materials of both the Logitech G en Playseat Trophy.
You can just feel the R&D and love that has gone into both product. They make a terrific combination.
Looking forward to the the week of 22-2 when PSVR2 & GT7 VR releases.
Will be waiting to try out the rig for the PSVR2 to arrive. It can't be anything less than transformative.
This is the technology tipping point I have been hoping to arrive since my first PC wheel with NFS 1 & Indycar 500.
Stability and system design by SONY together with the art & craftsmanship provided by PD, Logitech and Playseat.
Thank you LOGI_Rich for the great work and result your team has accomplished. Superb products!
When Sony confirmed @ CES GT7 was coming to PSVR2 I ordered the G PRO Wheel & Pedals + Playseat Trophy.
Just assembled everything. The whole set oozes HQ. After some adjustments I tuned in the ideal seating position.
Love the design and materials of both the Logitech G en Playseat Trophy.
You can just feel the R&D and love that has gone into both product. They make a terrific combination.
Looking forward to the the week of 22-2 when PSVR2 & GT7 VR releases.
Will be waiting to try out the rig for the PSVR2 to arrive. It can't be anything less than transformative.
This is the technology tipping point I have been hoping to arrive since my first PC wheel with NFS 1 & Indycar 500.
Stability and system design by SONY together with the art & craftsmanship provided by PD, Logitech and Playseat.
Thank you LOGI_Rich for the great work and result your team has accomplished. Superb products!
Last edited:
A quick question about the Pro pedals when connected to the wheel as I don’t currently have them (I purchased some T-LCM pedals less than a year earlier so haven’t switched at this point) - is the clutch pedal seen as the same input as the clutch paddles?
I have the clutch pedal of my T-LCM set as a clutch in most titles but would like the paddles on the Pro wheel to be the clutch for cars that uses them in real life whilst still keeping the pedal for cars that would have one.
I have the clutch pedal of my T-LCM set as a clutch in most titles but would like the paddles on the Pro wheel to be the clutch for cars that uses them in real life whilst still keeping the pedal for cars that would have one.
@Turboracer The team always appreciates the positive feedback - thanks!
@TegMattW Yes, the paddles actuate the same clutch axis as the pedals when they’re connected into the wheel
@TegMattW Yes, the paddles actuate the same clutch axis as the pedals when they’re connected into the wheel
Last edited:
- 142
- Netherlands
- Airwolf303
@LOGI_Rich is there hope we will someday get the opportunity to add a new PRO H pattern shifter? ☺️
- 6,511
- Shropshire
- IfAndOr
A game changer according to someone who should know his way around GT. 😉
Logitech G PRO Direct Drive Wheel Review: A Gran Turismo 7 Game-Changer (UPDATED)
https://youtu.be/YO1zD_NamzA Logitech has just revealed the G PRO Racing Wheel, and it’s a product I never thought it would actually make. The company has a long history of producing reliable, entry-level sim-racing hardware, but it has always ceded the higher-end of the market to companies like
www.gtplanet.net
- 1,279
- Melbourne
- Nicky-Boy_7
@Turboracer congrats mate!
The Logitech stuff's colour scheme integrates perfectly as if it's a single package.
The Logitech stuff's colour scheme integrates perfectly as if it's a single package.
- 773
- Germany
- timekiller001
At one point I was thinking of making the switch to the Logitech from my Fanatec GT DD Pro, because I had a coupon which reduced the price quite a bit. But before I made the decision they changed the coupon so it's no longer eligible for the Pro Wheel...
Maybe when the price drops and there are additional wheel rims available (one similar in shape to the McLaren GT3 wheel) I'll make the switch, as I mostly play GT7 with it and apparently it's a huge difference - but as of now the price is just too high to justify.
Maybe when the price drops and there are additional wheel rims available (one similar in shape to the McLaren GT3 wheel) I'll make the switch, as I mostly play GT7 with it and apparently it's a huge difference - but as of now the price is just too high to justify.
- 1,279
- Melbourne
- Nicky-Boy_7
If you take into account the facts that you get an excellent QR mechanism that's metal and provides zero play, magnetic shifters, paddles, a non-cryptic OLED display, bleed-free rev lights, leather wheel, more as well as more-accurate torque etc. and that you'd have to shell out for many such things as separate purchases with Fanatec, I think you'll find that the price is actually reasonable.
Same applies to the pedals. The load-cell adjustment kit is included, for instance.
Same applies to the pedals. The load-cell adjustment kit is included, for instance.
I've got an issue with my Pro Wheel that I got yesterday. It works fine for a while, sometimes 10 minutes, sometimes an hour but then the game will crash and the wheel will sort of vibrate until I turn it off. This happens on all games I've tried and happens on both Xbox and PC.
An example - PC games were WRC Generations, ACC, AC.
Xbox - ACC, Dirt Rally 2.
Not sure what it could be other than the wheel seeing as it's happening on both PC and Xbox. I have unplugged and re-plugged cables etc. Wheel is fitted correctly to base etc.
Firmware has been updated.
Here's a link to a vid of it vibrating after game crashes. Again, this happens on PC and Xbox games.
An example - PC games were WRC Generations, ACC, AC.
Xbox - ACC, Dirt Rally 2.
Not sure what it could be other than the wheel seeing as it's happening on both PC and Xbox. I have unplugged and re-plugged cables etc. Wheel is fitted correctly to base etc.
Firmware has been updated.
Here's a link to a vid of it vibrating after game crashes. Again, this happens on PC and Xbox games.
Last edited:
Sturdy
Premium
- 940
- England
- js427
So last night I got around to trying the Logitech recommended settings for GT7 that LOGI_Rich shared earlier in the thread. I couldn't find them by Googling so had to go back in this thread, so for other's convenience, here's the link
support.logi.com
First impressions were that naturally the wheel felt firmer, I was on around 5.5Nm with my old settings, but had FFB strength in game at 10 and sensitivity at 9...
What I'll call the 'surface hum' was there but not distracting, although I may lower the TF Audio setting a bit in future, will see how I feel. By 'surface hum' I mean the ever present light sort of road surface 'noise', this is present in my HPAS road cars albeit maybe less noticeable, and doesn't interfere with any of the other FFB sensations so happy to leave the settings as recommended for now until I've used it more.
I took the 911 RSR to Bathurst as this was the last combo I'd done with previous settings. Ignoring the weight, the steering and feedback initially felt very similar, but the car somehow felt easier to drive, it's quite a planted car anyway but the best way I can describe it is the settings I'd ended up on gave more feedback (or arguably background noise) about what the rear of the car was doing, which possibly diluted or interfered with the actual steering feedback perhaps.
The steering felt very natural and felt that the feedback was more about the front of the car, I think I was thus instinctively giving better steering inputs and these stayed truer as there was less torque coming back at me to communicate the rear of the car.
I wasn't sure if I'd perhaps lost some info, or probably more accurately, I wasn't tuned in to the new balance of the different layers of feedback, so I thought I'd go back to the combo I've lapped the most since having the wheel... A 500bhp '70 Challenger on sports suspension and Comfort Softs with the steering angle kit around Tsukuba in the wet.
There was the immediately obvious lightness in the steering from the soaked surface, the understeer and wheel locking was still clearly communicated, and catching and holding big lairy slides was still completely second nature, and actually felt better when you got the car balanced sideways, there was a more distinct feel when the front wheels settled in to just the right angle of countersteer.
On this particular session there was only the initial downpour, so the track dried quicker than usual with there being a pretty dry line by lap 20. If felt like the steering weighted up quicker than previously, but I suspect this is just the weather differences this time. I think with the stiffer wheel overall, there's some subtleties that were more obvious on my old settings, the higher torque meaning I've got some mental recalibrating to do. I'm picturing it like this, say the wheel produces a 0.25Nm change in resistance to signal an event, perhaps understeer beginning. At 5Nm, that's a 5% change in what you're feeling, whereas at 11Nm, that's a little over a 2% change, so there's a bit of re-calibration to be done...
I suppose the FFB probably does scale with the maximum torque, but it felt like whilst the information was still there, I just wasn't as tuned in to it as I had been at the recommended (and higher torque) settings.
I think the recommended settings are more 'real', in terms of more representative of what a real steering wheel actually does, and so information communicated about the front wheels is clearer, and the other feedback is thus more nuanced.
Other general thoughts / feedback.
There's a slight 'tick' type of sound that's developed, it sounds like somewhere some plastic that is occasionally not quite creaking as such, but there's a little tick of something moving slightly. Will keep an eye (ear...) on this, it's only noticeable because I tried playing without headphones with the TV quite low to get an idea of noise levels.
Noise levels, the higher TrueForce settings you do get more 'hum' (see surface hum above...!) and the rumble is noticeable. These are just inherent feedback noises, there's no actual sort of wheel movement noise, the wheel is vibrating back and forth and so that will ultimately vibrate what it's mounted to. This could obviously be tuned out with the TF Sound level if complete silence was needed.
The clutch paddles are irritatingly placed when things get twirly, it's very easy to pull the clutch paddle instead of the gear paddle when the wheel is turned 150*+ and you're reaching around it or your hand is generally out of position. Familiarity / muscle memory will probably sort this, but thought it worth mentioning as it's still happening.
H-pattern shifter would be an absolute joy with this whole set-up. Currently the clutch pedal is totally wasted, and the clutch paddles have only been an inconvenience.
Again whilst twirling the wheel I have managed to involuntarily rotate the thumb encoders, typicaly the left hand one. I also find the button on this awkward to operate with my hand actually on the wheel. The thumb stick on the left is easy to operate, but I find I'm still not that familiar with where the other buttons are, finding the pause button is a bit of a guessing game in the dark, but again, muscle memory will fix this.
In-Game Settings for Pro Wheels
Click here to view this article in a new tab. Because game settings are subjective, the following suggestions are to help you determine which settings may improve your game experience. Where rele...
First impressions were that naturally the wheel felt firmer, I was on around 5.5Nm with my old settings, but had FFB strength in game at 10 and sensitivity at 9...
What I'll call the 'surface hum' was there but not distracting, although I may lower the TF Audio setting a bit in future, will see how I feel. By 'surface hum' I mean the ever present light sort of road surface 'noise', this is present in my HPAS road cars albeit maybe less noticeable, and doesn't interfere with any of the other FFB sensations so happy to leave the settings as recommended for now until I've used it more.
I took the 911 RSR to Bathurst as this was the last combo I'd done with previous settings. Ignoring the weight, the steering and feedback initially felt very similar, but the car somehow felt easier to drive, it's quite a planted car anyway but the best way I can describe it is the settings I'd ended up on gave more feedback (or arguably background noise) about what the rear of the car was doing, which possibly diluted or interfered with the actual steering feedback perhaps.
The steering felt very natural and felt that the feedback was more about the front of the car, I think I was thus instinctively giving better steering inputs and these stayed truer as there was less torque coming back at me to communicate the rear of the car.
I wasn't sure if I'd perhaps lost some info, or probably more accurately, I wasn't tuned in to the new balance of the different layers of feedback, so I thought I'd go back to the combo I've lapped the most since having the wheel... A 500bhp '70 Challenger on sports suspension and Comfort Softs with the steering angle kit around Tsukuba in the wet.
There was the immediately obvious lightness in the steering from the soaked surface, the understeer and wheel locking was still clearly communicated, and catching and holding big lairy slides was still completely second nature, and actually felt better when you got the car balanced sideways, there was a more distinct feel when the front wheels settled in to just the right angle of countersteer.
On this particular session there was only the initial downpour, so the track dried quicker than usual with there being a pretty dry line by lap 20. If felt like the steering weighted up quicker than previously, but I suspect this is just the weather differences this time. I think with the stiffer wheel overall, there's some subtleties that were more obvious on my old settings, the higher torque meaning I've got some mental recalibrating to do. I'm picturing it like this, say the wheel produces a 0.25Nm change in resistance to signal an event, perhaps understeer beginning. At 5Nm, that's a 5% change in what you're feeling, whereas at 11Nm, that's a little over a 2% change, so there's a bit of re-calibration to be done...
I suppose the FFB probably does scale with the maximum torque, but it felt like whilst the information was still there, I just wasn't as tuned in to it as I had been at the recommended (and higher torque) settings.
I think the recommended settings are more 'real', in terms of more representative of what a real steering wheel actually does, and so information communicated about the front wheels is clearer, and the other feedback is thus more nuanced.
Other general thoughts / feedback.
There's a slight 'tick' type of sound that's developed, it sounds like somewhere some plastic that is occasionally not quite creaking as such, but there's a little tick of something moving slightly. Will keep an eye (ear...) on this, it's only noticeable because I tried playing without headphones with the TV quite low to get an idea of noise levels.
Noise levels, the higher TrueForce settings you do get more 'hum' (see surface hum above...!) and the rumble is noticeable. These are just inherent feedback noises, there's no actual sort of wheel movement noise, the wheel is vibrating back and forth and so that will ultimately vibrate what it's mounted to. This could obviously be tuned out with the TF Sound level if complete silence was needed.
The clutch paddles are irritatingly placed when things get twirly, it's very easy to pull the clutch paddle instead of the gear paddle when the wheel is turned 150*+ and you're reaching around it or your hand is generally out of position. Familiarity / muscle memory will probably sort this, but thought it worth mentioning as it's still happening.
H-pattern shifter would be an absolute joy with this whole set-up. Currently the clutch pedal is totally wasted, and the clutch paddles have only been an inconvenience.
Again whilst twirling the wheel I have managed to involuntarily rotate the thumb encoders, typicaly the left hand one. I also find the button on this awkward to operate with my hand actually on the wheel. The thumb stick on the left is easy to operate, but I find I'm still not that familiar with where the other buttons are, finding the pause button is a bit of a guessing game in the dark, but again, muscle memory will fix this.
Hmmm - are there any USB extenders/hubs involved in your setup? Also, what's the proximity to other electrical items such as amps/routers etc.? I had someone recently whose pedals were constantly twitching and it was because his pedal box was right next to his amp and router. Once he rearranged things a bit then it cleared up.
Straight into PC and Xbox, nothing in between. Not really near any sources of interference that I wouldn’t be expect it to deal with. There is a router in the corner of the room but the wheel is in the middle.
It can be fine for quite a while, last night I played for an hour or so in between issues on WRC. Today 10 mins. Nothing has changed in set up or position.
Only other things it’s near are Logitech wireless mouse and keyboard. That would seem like quite the oversight if they were at fault.
It can be fine for quite a while, last night I played for an hour or so in between issues on WRC. Today 10 mins. Nothing has changed in set up or position.
Only other things it’s near are Logitech wireless mouse and keyboard. That would seem like quite the oversight if they were at fault.
Last edited:
I don’t really have anywhere to do that. I’m the only middle aged man I know having enough of a crisis to be this deep into it.
It’s very slightly possible it’s a WRC issue and the other crashes were coincidences. Unlikely but they do seem more frequent on that game.
Would be odd that the same thing happened on ACC on Xbox though.
That was going to be my next suggestion just to see if it makes any difference. In WRC's control options there's the vibrotactile feedback setting - turn it off. That disables Trueforce, so it's interesting to see if that helps. I suspect maybe not because you said you had a problem with AC, which isn't Trueforce-enabled...
The other thing to do is to connect the power supply into a different socket - if you're in a power splitter then take that out of the equation, for example.
The other thing to do is to connect the power supply into a different socket - if you're in a power splitter then take that out of the equation, for example.
Thanks. So far I’ve been going about an hour without problems since turning off API. I already had Trueforce off and tried other things.
The thing is, ACC crashed on Xbox in a similar way too. I suppose that could just be an unfortunate and confusing coincidence. I tried testing that again and it was okay but didn’t give it long. I don’t remember if old AC actually crashed now, I didn’t play that one for long.
I’m reluctant to believe it’s the wheel as it works perfectly for quite a while before the game crashes - would seem that there should be other problems if the wheel was at fault but I don’t know what else could cause the problems. WRC ran fine with my old Thrustmaster wheel.
One final thing to do on PC is to reinstall G HUB - just re-run the installer and choose the Reinstall option.
Otherwise, more testing time sounds like it's needed in order to see if there's definitely a problem/common replication method. Final point on Xbox: do make sure that you've fully quit the titles and that they're removed from the Quick Resume section before launching them.
Otherwise, more testing time sounds like it's needed in order to see if there's definitely a problem/common replication method. Final point on Xbox: do make sure that you've fully quit the titles and that they're removed from the Quick Resume section before launching them.
- 142
- Netherlands
- Airwolf303
One thing worth specifically pointing out is that the build quality of the pedals is better than anything I have seen or felt. To be clear. All the pedals are constructed out of a very nice metal with a equally nice different metal uses for the front plates. Only the baseplate is partly made from a very nice, grip structured, hard, matte plastic. Quite the high end look and feel.
Last edited:
- 142
- Netherlands
- Airwolf303
The plastic on the Wheelbase is also very HQ. Love it. Very much worth the investment considering other offerings from Fanatec for instance. Got my set for €1250,- Tried the 15% off code after registering with my @. It worked at checkout so I ordered straight away.
Even the disclaimer that goes with the 15% registration code says it does not apply to G products. Guess I was lucky.
Even the disclaimer that goes with the 15% registration code says it does not apply to G products. Guess I was lucky.
Last edited:
- 1,279
- Melbourne
- Nicky-Boy_7
In fact, the base plate is metal too; it only has a plastic cover.
Similar threads
