Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

It's been reported to EA several times. We have no visibility to whether a fix is on the way, but we'll keep checking in with them.

PC and Xbox versions are fine.
 
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Strength 11Nm
TF Audio 100
Filter 8
Angle 1080 (but of course adjust as you need it)
 
Logiri


@LOGI_Rich I'm sorry if it's already been asked but does that mean that I have to set my Strength and TF every single time I play the game? It never stores it?

Does GT7 support FFB Filter Auto mode ? What value would you recommend?

Thanks,
I have multiple profiles set up and I simply remember to select one after connecting the wheel (i.e pressing the ps button). Selecting a profile is enough to prompt gt7 to use on device settings. All of the settings like strength and TF audio are saved. I also wish we knew if gt7 supported FFB auto filter.
 
I faintly remember something about being able to change LED colours and name the profiles? I have updated the firmware recently, I couldn’t find anywhere to rename profiles. Was that ever a thing? It would be nice to be able to half GT7 (strong, medium, weak) PC2 and Wreckfest. Labelled in the wheel instead of Profile 1/2/3/4/5
I was able to rename my profiles in g-hub. Sorry can't remember the steps and I don't have my wheel connected at the moment but it definitely is possible.
 
@LOGI_Rich I have also noticed the increased oscillations (for high DF Gr.1 cars in particular). I have seen on this thread some say to fix this by adjusting the in-game steering sensitivity setting, and others have said to adjust the on-device dampener setting (I know you need to select a profile or make a change for certain on-device settings to apply). Is it correct that both of these settings will address oscillations? Is there any reason to prefer one of these methods over the other?
 
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@LOGI_Rich I have also noticed the increased oscillations (for high DF Gr.1 cars in particular). I have seen on this thread some say to fix this by adjusting the in-game steering sensitivity setting, and others have said to adjust the on-device dampener setting (I know you need to select a profile or make a change for certain on-device settings to apply). Is it correct that both of these settings will address oscillations? Is there any reason to prefer one of these methods over the other?
in my experience both these will help some (lower in game sensitivity and increase on device dampener) but unfortunately the most effective way to reduce oscillations in race cars is by decreasing torque, either on device or in game. I have settled on 8nm for race cars to reduce oscillation, and turn up to 11 when I am driving road cars
 
I’m thinking of getting the G pro wheel and have been reading through this thread to get as much info regarding the G pro wheel, but I need to know if it will work with my current seat which is a Next level GT LITE (with a G29 wheel.)

Would I need to find a way of bracing the support for the G pro , if so where would I be able to source the items needed ? . Also I’m playing on a PS4 how well does the G pro work on it as mostly the posts I’ve seen are from people with PS5’s .
I had this rig. Loved it. Initially it was set up with a G29, like you. I replaced it with a Fanatec DD Pro (8nm and LoadCell). The extra FFB overwhelmed the rig, which was designed for lower FFB wheels, so I used some ratchet ties to brace it and it was then able to handle the extra torque. Not perfect, but pretty good.

You attach one end to the top horizontal bar where the wheel base is mounted, the other end to the horizontal front seat mount. Do it for both sides if you feel the need.

If you REALLY want extra rigidity and don't want to fork out for another rig you could attach a further tie strap to a spare hole in the wheel plate down to the previously mentioned chair bar.

Looks a bit goofy but is very effective.
 
I've been getting the exact same thing!

Edit: found this thread, maybe this is my issue? Will test:

Front USB port on PS5 is only USB 2.0, rear is 3.0 and I’ve been using the front port for the wheel.

I think I found my issue. I tried three different USB extension cords and had the same behavior with all three. Plugged it directly in and zero issues since. So it seems like the PS5 for whatever reason doesn't respond well to using extension cables. Even though they work fine on the PC. shrug
 
It seems to me that Logitech has a big opportunity to compete with the buttkicker. I hope at some point they will release a haptic transducer branded as “trueforce” that simply plugs into the g pro wheel base and is bolted somewhere on your seat/rig (separate from the wheel base itself of course, closer to the floor). Right now setting up a buttkicker for gt7 is a bit of a pain (and if like me you don’t have a windows computer I’m not sure it is even possible). In any case it will be very interesting to see what gets announced at the Logi Play event next month.
 
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Happy to see what new toys will be available in September. Bit of mixed feelings since I bought a Fanatec shifter and handbrake last week to use with the g pro wheel (works like a charm thanks to drivehub). However I like the g pro design language more so perhaps I will be selling the Fanatec stuff next month😅
 
Thanks for the replies tinyman392 and supercededman . I did check out next level racing site and saw that the GT Pro version has 2 straps going from the wheel base plate to the the pedal area was thinking of doing something like that, so it might help.
 
It seems to me that Logitech has a big opportunity to compete with the buttkicker. I hope at some point they will release a haptic transducer branded as “trueforce” that simply plugs into the g pro wheel base and is bolted somewhere on your seat/rig (separate from the wheel base itself of course, closer to the floor). Right now setting up a buttkicker for gt7 is a bit of a pain (and if like me you don’t have a windows computer I’m not sure it is even possible). In any case it will be very interesting to see what gets announced at the Logi Play event next month.
You can use a HDMI audio extractor/spitter to connect to the Buttkicker amp if you don’t have Simhub capabilities
 
You can use a HDMI audio extractor/spitter to connect to the Buttkicker amp if you don’t have Simhub capabilities

That’s a good point. I am assuming it feels better if it is piped into the telemetry as opposed to the audio. But if Logitech does not release a standalone transducer I will purchase a buttkicker and use the audio extractor.
 
I was able to rename my profiles in g-hub. Sorry can't remember the steps and I don't have my wheel connected at the moment but it definitely is possible.
Its at the bottom of the profiles drop down in g-hub. Super easy.

@Chris_PDX i use an old 3m usb-a extender to the ps5 (probably case logic, or belkin, or some other in house tech store brand), never had an issue, can’t update with the extension though. Seems like modern day usb cords like everything else these days are of questionable quality, you’d have to make sure to get a decent one. I would guess anything over 3-6m will have signal loss if not a powered cord and may not work. I remember hearing something about a 15’ kinda max for a usb extension when not through a powered hub or repeater.
 
You can use a HDMI audio extractor/spitter to connect to the Buttkicker amp if you don’t have Simhub capabilities

That’s a good point. I am assuming it feels better if it is piped into the telemetry as opposed to the audio. But if Logitech does not release a standalone transducer I will purchase a buttkicker and use the audio extractor.
I have a couple questions for either of you, or anyone that uses an HDMI audio splitter. I'm currently routing the HDMI output to an Onkyo receiver that drives a pair of Bose 8.2 front L&R channels and a set of Kenwood center and rear surround channels. Will the splitter route all sound to my Buttkicker 2 or will it still output sound to the receiver concurrently with the Buttkicker?

Also, I use a Turtle Beach Stealth 600 set of cans w/dongle for late at night/early morning. Will the splitter route concurrently to the buttkicker when I'm using that headset?

My BK2 has been sitting pretty much idle since getting the PS5 and GT7 because I've had to route its input from the receiver's sub woofer output and it takes quite a bit of volume to get much action from it. Of course, I may not have the cross over set correctly. I diddled with those settings quite a bit when I first got the PS5 and all set up and was unable to find an acceptable balance of volume to buttkicker action.

Does anyone have an HDMI audio splitter recommendation for a HDMI audio splitter neophyte?

Thanks!
 
I have a couple questions for either of you, or anyone that uses an HDMI audio splitter. I'm currently routing the HDMI output to an Onkyo receiver that drives a pair of Bose 8.2 front L&R channels and a set of Kenwood center and rear surround channels. Will the splitter route all sound to my Buttkicker 2 or will it still output sound to the receiver concurrently with the Buttkicker?

Also, I use a Turtle Beach Stealth 600 set of cans w/dongle for late at night/early morning. Will the splitter route concurrently to the buttkicker when I'm using that headset?

My BK2 has been sitting pretty much idle since getting the PS5 and GT7 because I've had to route its input from the receiver's sub woofer output and it takes quite a bit of volume to get much action from it. Of course, I may not have the cross over set correctly. I diddled with those settings quite a bit when I first got the PS5 and all set up and was unable to find an acceptable balance of volume to buttkicker action.

Does anyone have an HDMI audio splitter recommendation for a HDMI audio splitter neophyte?

Thanks!
Use simhub for now. It's free. GT7 doesn't push out rumble strip effects but its still pretty good. The G Pro looks after that tho.
You will have the added bonus of running a dashboard with tire temps and more!
 
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Use simhub for now. It's free. GT7 doesn't push out rumble strip effects but its still pretty good. The G Pro looks after that tho.
You will have the added bonus of running a dashboard with tire temps and more!
Won't be able to see that in VR.
 
Use simhub for now. It's free. GT7 doesn't push out rumble strip effects but its still pretty good. The G Pro looks after that tho.
You will have the added bonus of running a dashboard with tire temps and more!
I think it does? I’m positive I feel them under me. I don’t know what effect it is. Road impacts maybe?
 
Unfortunately I can't get anything from the rumble strip, even with road impacts turned up.
I’ll try to remember to look what setting it is. I’m like 99% sure I have them unless it is my wheel doing it, but I feel it in my leg one side or the other. I shared my settings in here somewhere. I feel like something I turned that gamma up of the curve?

Also I wonder if the frequency matters? Most of my stuff is around 40hz. Might not feel curbs at a higher frequency?

Sorry I think I shared them in the tactile feedback thread on this sight. I guess my settings aren’t anything to write home about but I’m sure enjoying it all.

NEW LOGITECH STUFF
*****
I don’t need it now but that was my thought when I was looking into setting up SimHub and buying amps and shakers. I thought, trueforce is right here, the wheel is capable of it, maybe they can send that info out of the wheels ports and into something like a buttkicker. If they end up doing that, they lost a customer because I would have jumped on it for the simplicity of it. I built my rig around the stuff I bought so I won’t be changing it out. I’m sure it’ll be some new rims and a shifter, maybe a handbrake. I still think they should have had the wheels buttons softly illuminated.
 
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Back from vacation, so a few parts to respond to:

@Monkey Man glad that’s now working - bizarre that it took that long but I guess it seeped into where it was needed.

@Tommy moon as long as you set the clutch paddles to the gas and brake functions on the OLED screen then they work fine in all titles.

@Mindrill check how you have the Trueforce gain set in ACC’s settings (scroll down in the middle section of the control options), GT7, make sure you’re using the PS5 version of the game and F1, if it’s the 24 version of the game, FFB is currently not hitting peak output. It’s been reported to EA but no info on a potential update yet.
Hi @LOGI_Rich one of the people Tommy is talking about is my son. He’s 14 and autistic and has problems with his legs and it makes the pedals incredibly hard to use. He’s an A+ rated driver in GT7 and incredibly fast on controller and wants to make the switch to the G29 but can’t overcome the challenges with the pedals. Any path forward for him to have accelerator and brake on the wheel would be a huge benefit for him. Am I correct in understanding that this is only possible on the Logitech Pro wheel? The price point on that puts it well outside our budget for the foreseeable future. Any insight you can share would be appreciated!
 
Hi @LOGI_Rich one of the people Tommy is talking about is my son. He’s 14 and autistic and has problems with his legs and it makes the pedals incredibly hard to use. He’s an A+ rated driver in GT7 and incredibly fast on controller and wants to make the switch to the G29 but can’t overcome the challenges with the pedals. Any path forward for him to have accelerator and brake on the wheel would be a huge benefit for him. Am I correct in understanding that this is only possible on the Logitech Pro wheel? The price point on that puts it well outside our budget for the foreseeable future. Any insight you can share would be appreciated!
Yes, you can run the accessory paddles as gas and brake if necessary. You set them up like that in the wheelbase (not the game) and any game should pick them up properly. Do note that you’ll be driving 4 and 7 instead of the standard 3 and 9 if you do this.
 
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