Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[Sturdy]

I mean, last year sim wasn’t present in the Logi Play announcements; two years ago when we launched Pro Wheel and Pedals, we very much were.

This year?

There's also this search intro preview text on Google that isn't on the webpage itself, but is in the meta text for Twitter etc.

What could it all mean? If only we could figure it out...

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Hi @LOGI_Rich one of the people Tommy is talking about is my son. He’s 14 and autistic and has problems with his legs and it makes the pedals incredibly hard to use. He’s an A+ rated driver in GT7 and incredibly fast on controller and wants to make the switch to the G29 but can’t overcome the challenges with the pedals. Any path forward for him to have accelerator and brake on the wheel would be a huge benefit for him. Am I correct in understanding that this is only possible on the Logitech Pro wheel? The price point on that puts it well outside our budget for the foreseeable future. Any insight you can share would be appreciated!

Hi there. I'm afraid there's no clear path to addressing this on console with the G29 as things stand. Pro Wheel is the only device that has the dual clutch paddles that can be reconfigured as gas/brake.

 

[Tommy moon]

Hi there. I'm afraid there's no clear path to addressing this on console with the G29 as things stand. Pro Wheel is the only device that has the dual clutch paddles that can be reconfigured as gas/brake.

 

[Tommy moon]

Top split going back to the g29....would love to see what he thinks about the DD vs fanatech

 

[vitaobr92]

Hi!

First things first, I want to thank everyone for all the information on this thread, which helped me a lot to decide to purchase G Pro Wheel, best settings, and clarify some questions.

It’s my first sim rig and I would like to know if the sound coming from the wheel (not the base) in this VIDEO is normal. Looks like a rumble (it’s the sound that kinda looks like a Geiger counter approaching a radioactive object lol).

Obs. 1: The loud cracks are just me changing gears. Obs. 2: TV is muted, the engine sound is from wheel base.

 

[tyoungbl]

Hi!

First things first, I want to thank everyone for all the information on this thread, which helped me a lot to decide to purchase G Pro Wheel, best settings, and clarify some questions.

It’s my first sim rig and I would like to know if the sound coming from the wheel (not the base) in this VIDEO is normal. Looks like a rumble (it’s the sound that kinda looks like a Geiger counter approaching a radioactive object lol).

Obs. 1: The loud cracks are just me changing gears. Obs. 2: TV is muted, the engine sound is from wheel base.

Not normal. Seen videos like this posted a few times in this thread but fortunately haven't had this issue. I believe it's coming from the quick release area and not within the base itself. Rotating the quick release shaft seemed to resolve the issue for those experiencing this but maybe others can chime in

 

[LOGI_Rich]

The video is too short and there’s no other context in terms of the Trueforce Audio settings on the wheel and in the game in order to make that certain a statement 😀

@vitaobr92 could you share those details please? Also need to know if it does similar in other titles (and what they are).

ACC does send a decent amount of engine note to the wheel and if Trueforce Audio settings are very high then things can vibrate.

 

[hawkeyez]

Hi!

First things first, I want to thank everyone for all the information on this thread, which helped me a lot to decide to purchase G Pro Wheel, best settings, and clarify some questions.

It’s my first sim rig and I would like to know if the sound coming from the wheel (not the base) in this VIDEO is normal. Looks like a rumble (it’s the sound that kinda looks like a Geiger counter approaching a radioactive object lol).

Obs. 1: The loud cracks are just me changing gears. Obs. 2: TV is muted, the engine sound is from wheel base.

If it’s the clicking/cracking sound I think I hear. It usually happens to me on quick FFB direction changes. I’ve found I pop the wheel off, reach in and give the quick release spring a half turn. Can also spin the quick release some. It’ll go away, but ultimately comes back.

I think there’s a burr on the spring, it grabs hold, then gets load up and let’s go making a ticking sound.

Alternatively it could be the ball bearings that fall into the divots within the quick release aren’t machines exact and that click is a ball bearing sort of tapping against the groove when you turn.

I don’t know exactly which one it is but I don’t see much else in there that could cause the clicking. I came up with a fix for their G923, still brainstorming for the G Pro. I might just put a dab of silicone grease on each ball bearing. Cushion that ticking sound.

 

[Mindrill]

Just a small update on the no wheel input with GT7: It's a game issue and not related to the logitech wheel specifically. Still figuring out F1 and ACC.

 

[Tommy moon]

@LOGI_Rich

Ok...I'm noticing that FFB is inconsistent with 1.49. For example, I just did two races where the wheel was perfect, everything I love... feeling the pitch in the curbs and the wheel felt alive.

Then in another lobby I start and the wheel feels lighter. Curbs feel different, and I get force feedback loss during aggressive turn in.

I noticed this the other night after a long session but I thought maybe it had something to do with switching between GR3 and GR4 cars. It was also a long session so I thought maybe it had to do with that. However this time there was no change and it still happened.... And these are just five laps races So it can't be because of a long session.

What steps do you suggest for me to isolate the problem. I've heard stuff about some sort of USB overload issue but I'm not running anything other than standard cable length and I don't run a hub.

The fan is very quiet I'm wondering if maybe it's not cooling properly I really don't know.

 

[hawkeyez]

@LOGI_Rich

Ok...I'm noticing that FFB is inconsistent with 1.49. For example, I just did two races where the wheel was perfect, everything I love... feeling the pitch in the curbs and the wheel felt alive.

Then in another lobby I start and the wheel feels lighter. Curbs feel different, and I get force feedback loss during aggressive turn in.

I noticed this the other night after a long session but I thought maybe it had something to do with switching between GR3 and GR4 cars. It was also a long session so I thought maybe it had to do with that. However this time there was no change and it still happened.... And these are just five laps races So it can't be because of a long session.

What steps do you suggest for me to isolate the problem. I've heard stuff about some sort of USB overload issue but I'm not running anything other than standard cable length and I don't run a hub.

The fan is very quiet I'm wondering if maybe it's not cooling properly I really don't know.

Can’t say for sure but I think it’s the physics. One car to me feels great, another feels light with sporadic FFB spikes. Like one car over curbs feels proper and another car will try to rip my arms off. The 917k is a bit weird stock, super floaty light steering but through a corner all of a sudden, wham, tight steering, so you steer into it a bit but then it just gives back to floaty feeling.

I’m convinced all these inconsistencies in the wheel is PD’s physics updates, nothing else. Maybe the G Pro is so capable we’re able to feel all these extremes. Think of it like mixing music on a phone speaker, everything seems perfect, then you listen to it on a hifi stereo and there’s way too much bass on one song and not on another. That’s my best analogy for how this update feels. It’s so different from car to car.

 

[vitaobr92]

I - FIRST THINGS FIRST

Thank you everyone who took some time out of the day to help me: @tyoungbl ; @LOGI_Rich ; @hawkeyez . I made some tests in answer to @LOGI_Rich comment.

First of all, I believe that in MY CASE, the noise is related to TRUEFORCE and doesn't necessarily indicate a defect. I don't want to look for a problem where there isn't one, but I just want to know how to differentiate a normal noise from a defect noise, to ensure that my unit is ok.


II - GRAN TURISMO 7

In game settings: a) traction control 0; b) abs low; c) controller steering sensitivity 5; d) force feedback max torque 5; e) force feedback sensitivity 3. Steering wheel settings: a) strenght 8; b) TF audio 20 e 100; c) FFB filter 8; d) dampener 15.

I did two tests using the same car, on the same track, making the same turn and causing understeer. The only difference is that in one test the steering wheel's TRUEFORCE is set to 20, and in the other, it's set to 100. THIS is the footage with TF 100 and THIS is the footage with TF 20.

Obs.: the game sound is from the Dualsense.


III - ASSETTO CORSA COMPETIZIONE

In game settings: a) gain 100%; b) steer lock 900; c) steer scale 100; d) trueforce audio 100. Steering wheel settings: a) strenght 5; b) TF audio 20 e 100; c) FFB filter 9; d) dampener 25.

I did two tests using the same car, on the same track, making the same turn and causing understeer. The only difference is that in one test the steering wheel's TRUEFORCE is set to 20, and in the other, it's set to 100. THIS is the footage with TF 100 and THIS is the footage with TF 20.


IV - NO GAME RUNNING (PS5 MENU)

I made two videos rotating the steering wheel with de unit TURNED OFF, filming the WHEEL and filming the SHAFT, and the sound looks almost dead silent for me. I made one video withe de unite TURNED ON AFTER CLOSING ACC (hard to turn the wheel, but is not that hard after closing GT7, I think).

 

[hawkeyez]

I - FIRST THINGS FIRST

Thank you everyone who took some time out of the day to help me: @tyoungbl ; @LOGI_Rich ; @hawkeyez . I made some tests in answer to @LOGI_Rich comment.

First of all, I believe that in MY CASE, the noise is related to TRUEFORCE and doesn't necessarily indicate a defect. I don't want to look for a problem where there isn't one, but I just want to know how to differentiate a normal noise from a defect noise, to ensure that my unit is ok.


II - GRAN TURISMO 7

In game settings: a) traction control 0; b) abs low; c) controller steering sensitivity 5; d) force feedback max torque 5; e) force feedback sensitivity 3. Steering wheel settings: a) strenght 8; b) TF audio 20 e 100; c) FFB filter 8; d) dampener 15.

I did two tests using the same car, on the same track, making the same turn and causing understeer. The only difference is that in one test the steering wheel's TRUEFORCE is set to 20, and in the other, it's set to 100. THIS is the footage with TF 100 and THIS is the footage with TF 20.

Obs.: the game sound is from the Dualsense.


III - ASSETTO CORSA COMPETIZIONE

In game settings: a) gain 100%; b) steer lock 900; c) steer scale 100; d) trueforce audio 100. Steering wheel settings: a) strenght 5; b) TF audio 20 e 100; c) FFB filter 9; d) dampener 25.

I did two tests using the same car, on the same track, making the same turn and causing understeer. The only difference is that in one test the steering wheel's TRUEFORCE is set to 20, and in the other, it's set to 100. THIS is the footage with TF 100 and THIS is the footage with TF 20.


IV - NO GAME RUNNING (PS5 MENU)

I made two videos rotating the steering wheel with de unit TURNED OFF, filming the WHEEL and filming the SHAFT, and the sound looks almost dead silent for me. I made one video withe de unite TURNED ON AFTER CLOSING ACC (hard to turn the wheel, but is not that hard after closing GT7, I think).

That seems different from mine. Mine is more of a TICK or CLICK while I’m racing. Doesn’t always happen but consistent enough. That sounds more rattling or growling to me.

 

[turk1993]

I - FIRST THINGS FIRST

Thank you everyone who took some time out of the day to help me: @tyoungbl ; @LOGI_Rich ; @hawkeyez . I made some tests in answer to @LOGI_Rich comment.

First of all, I believe that in MY CASE, the noise is related to TRUEFORCE and doesn't necessarily indicate a defect. I don't want to look for a problem where there isn't one, but I just want to know how to differentiate a normal noise from a defect noise, to ensure that my unit is ok.


II - GRAN TURISMO 7

In game settings: a) traction control 0; b) abs low; c) controller steering sensitivity 5; d) force feedback max torque 5; e) force feedback sensitivity 3. Steering wheel settings: a) strenght 8; b) TF audio 20 e 100; c) FFB filter 8; d) dampener 15.

I did two tests using the same car, on the same track, making the same turn and causing understeer. The only difference is that in one test the steering wheel's TRUEFORCE is set to 20, and in the other, it's set to 100. THIS is the footage with TF 100 and THIS is the footage with TF 20.

Obs.: the game sound is from the Dualsense.


III - ASSETTO CORSA COMPETIZIONE

In game settings: a) gain 100%; b) steer lock 900; c) steer scale 100; d) trueforce audio 100. Steering wheel settings: a) strenght 5; b) TF audio 20 e 100; c) FFB filter 9; d) dampener 25.

I did two tests using the same car, on the same track, making the same turn and causing understeer. The only difference is that in one test the steering wheel's TRUEFORCE is set to 20, and in the other, it's set to 100. THIS is the footage with TF 100 and THIS is the footage with TF 20.


IV - NO GAME RUNNING (PS5 MENU)

I made two videos rotating the steering wheel with de unit TURNED OFF, filming the WHEEL and filming the SHAFT, and the sound looks almost dead silent for me. I made one video withe de unite TURNED ON AFTER CLOSING ACC (hard to turn the wheel, but is not that hard after closing GT7, I think).

Mine does the same, i was also asking the same thing last week after playing Forza Motorsport with TF. It only happens when TF is enabled.

Only thing that is weird is that my wheel makes creaking noises sometimes if i use TrueForce (on all games btw). its getting really loud and anoying. But if i turn TF off then its almost completely gone.

 

[Tommy moon]

Can’t say for sure but I think it’s the physics. One car to me feels great, another feels light with sporadic FFB spikes. Like one car over curbs feels proper and another car will try to rip my arms off. The 917k is a bit weird stock, super floaty light steering but through a corner all of a sudden, wham, tight steering, so you steer into it a bit but then it just gives back to floaty feeling.

I’m convinced all these inconsistencies in the wheel is PD’s physics updates, nothing else. Maybe the G Pro is so capable we’re able to feel all these extremes. Think of it like mixing music on a phone speaker, everything seems perfect, then you listen to it on a hifi stereo and there’s way too much bass on one song and not on another. That’s my best analogy for how this update feels. It’s so different from car to car.

I think you are right. Also I noticed that I used my keyboard before it happened I unplugged it...restarted and no issues.

Probably unrelated...but I'm wondering if the USB issue came into play.

I've nagged Digit to do a follow up video that would cover all this and compare to fanatech....not a review....but just a top split driver working it out with the audience.

@LOGI_Rich if you watch his previous G29 stream it was incredibly lively chat and 73% audience survey for a follow up. If I paid for the kit... any chance for a discount or something he could use and return?

 

[RJ83]

I - FIRST THINGS FIRST

Thank you everyone who took some time out of the day to help me: @tyoungbl ; @LOGI_Rich ; @hawkeyez . I made some tests in answer to @LOGI_Rich comment.

First of all, I believe that in MY CASE, the noise is related to TRUEFORCE and doesn't necessarily indicate a defect. I don't want to look for a problem where there isn't one, but I just want to know how to differentiate a normal noise from a defect noise, to ensure that my unit is ok.


II - GRAN TURISMO 7

In game settings: a) traction control 0; b) abs low; c) controller steering sensitivity 5; d) force feedback max torque 5; e) force feedback sensitivity 3. Steering wheel settings: a) strenght 8; b) TF audio 20 e 100; c) FFB filter 8; d) dampener 15.

I did two tests using the same car, on the same track, making the same turn and causing understeer. The only difference is that in one test the steering wheel's TRUEFORCE is set to 20, and in the other, it's set to 100. THIS is the footage with TF 100 and THIS is the footage with TF 20.

Obs.: the game sound is from the Dualsense.


III - ASSETTO CORSA COMPETIZIONE

In game settings: a) gain 100%; b) steer lock 900; c) steer scale 100; d) trueforce audio 100. Steering wheel settings: a) strenght 5; b) TF audio 20 e 100; c) FFB filter 9; d) dampener 25.

I did two tests using the same car, on the same track, making the same turn and causing understeer. The only difference is that in one test the steering wheel's TRUEFORCE is set to 20, and in the other, it's set to 100. THIS is the footage with TF 100 and THIS is the footage with TF 20.


IV - NO GAME RUNNING (PS5 MENU)

I made two videos rotating the steering wheel with de unit TURNED OFF, filming the WHEEL and filming the SHAFT, and the sound looks almost dead silent for me. I made one video withe de unite TURNED ON AFTER CLOSING ACC (hard to turn the wheel, but is not that hard after closing GT7, I think).

Looks definitely like a trueforce effect. Mine made similar sounds but without trueforce (assetto corsa 1) and always at the same angle. (Had my unit replaced and my new wheel has been performing perfectly.)

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Yes, it's the Trueforce vibrotactile side of things - nothing to worry about. Simply set it at a level that works for you (but definitely don't turn it off 😁)

 

[tyoungbl]

I run the logitech g pro ps5 version and use drivehub for Xbox compatibility. Wheel is updated to latest firmware but when jumping on to give the latest forza 23 update a shot with truforce now enabled the truforce setting isn't showing up. Is there a certain drivehub firmware I need to be on for this to work?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Have you updated the firmware of the wheel in G HUB?

 

[tyoungbl]

Have you updated the firmware of the wheel in G HUB?

Yep! I did that last week in anticipation of trying out forza.

 

[Chkops]

Can’t say for sure but I think it’s the physics. One car to me feels great, another feels light with sporadic FFB spikes. Like one car over curbs feels proper and another car will try to rip my arms off. The 917k is a bit weird stock, super floaty light steering but through a corner all of a sudden, wham, tight steering, so you steer into it a bit but then it just gives back to floaty feeling.

I’m convinced all these inconsistencies in the wheel is PD’s physics updates, nothing else. Maybe the G Pro is so capable we’re able to feel all these extremes. Think of it like mixing music on a phone speaker, everything seems perfect, then you listen to it on a hifi stereo and there’s way too much bass on one song and not on another. That’s my best analogy for how this update feels. It’s so different from car to car.

Super Formula (a very high downforce car) now feels like melted ice cream while turning the wheel (even in corners). I hate this last update (except for the weight transfer while braking).

 

[ViperJon]

I run the logitech g pro ps5 version and use drivehub for Xbox compatibility. Wheel is updated to latest firmware but when jumping on to give the latest forza 23 update a shot with truforce now enabled the truforce setting isn't showing up. Is there a certain drivehub firmware I need to be on for this to work?

If you have the latest wheel firmware and Forza update its there down the bottom under advanced wheel settings. I think it's on by default, you'll know if the "vibration" slider is greyed out.

 

[tyoungbl]

If you have the latest wheel firmware and Forza update its there down the bottom under advanced wheel settings. I think it's on by default, you'll know if the "vibration" slider is greyed out.

Huh... the vibration slider is greyed out but still adjustable. I thought I'd seen some screens that had different trueforce sliders that could be adjusted (road feel, kerbs etc...) but there is nothing about trueforce at the bottom of the advanced wheel options.

 

[TurboBoy64]

A few days ago Moza announced mbooster active pedals. I really hope Logitech is working on a similar product, maybe be an add on for the g pro pedals.

 

[Alex-ffm]

The G-Pro wheel is around 2 years out now and no additional wheels or other hardware addons. Loosing my patience slowly. Looking to sell it soon and maybe try the new Moza wheel and all the goodies they plan. Logitech is to slow with upgrades.

 

[TurboBoy64]

The G-Pro wheel is around 2 years out now and no additional wheels or other hardware addons. Loosing my patience slowly. Looking to sell it soon and maybe try the new Moza wheel and all the goodies they plan. Logitech is to slow with upgrades.

Might want to wait until after next month. LOGIRich has all but confirmed new products are coming out at the Play event next month.

 

[Alex-ffm]

Might want to wait until after next month. LOGIRich has all but confirmed new products are coming out at the Play event next month.

Ohh ok. Thank you for the info. Will wait a bit the and see if it’s worth to keep the G-Pro. Cheers

 

[Mindrill]

Middle of race just suddenly the ffb stopped working properly. Didn't feel my tires and the grip I had. I have to believe this some defective unit with all the issues I have. Yall seem to have fun.

Pedals work how they are supposed to, no real issues there, but I find them uncomfortable with the pedal plate and throttle travel.

Base and wheel have countless issues like sticky buttons, ticking base, creaky, loss of FFb, buggy. I can't recommend this **** for 1300 to anyone. 30 days is not enough to find out.

 

[Hoani Tuati]

Looking at the settings here In-Game Settings for Pro Wheels – Logitech Support + Download and then looking at the image on the side, the ANGLE for ACC says 1080 on the website but in the image, the STEER LOCK says 900. Should these not be the same?

 

[IfAndOr]

Looking at the settings

If I were you I'd use the settings from the PC section. There's been a few updates to ACC on console and it's now much nearer to the PC version. It natively supports the G Pro for instance. The Logi recommendations are a little out of date.