Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel
- Thread starter timekiller001
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Just wanted to add to this.
Ive been racing GT7 for a year, both with T-GT II and now Logi Pro. Before summer and the latest updates, it felt fine.
Now - the same symptoms. With the Gr2 NSX at Suzuka for example, the FFB is nice and detailed on the straights, but the moment I load up the front tyres into T1 for example, the wheel goes light, basically falls in my hands, and also loses all the detail, as if it was clipping.
No combination of settings (weaker torque, higher wheelbase str. and vice versa for example) fixes this. Especially noticable with normal lighter FFB levels. If you crank all strenght to the maximum, then the dip in FFB doesnt seem to occour, but then its not drivable either.
- 142
- United States
So on Saturday I did have several instances of losing FFB while racing again like I did once a few weeks ago. I use my wheel probably an hour or two a day at least and normally don't have any issues. I had raced for at least an hour in Forza Motorsport on PC no problem, then switched to GT7 on PS5. I did one race in GT7, no problem. Then the second race I lost FFB in the middle of a turn, just like it happened once before it felt like the steering "broke through" the resistance and went loose, no more FFB but still reading all my inputs.
Like before I paused, and power cycled the wheel. However unlike last time which was a one off that didnt repeat, once I started racing again it kept happening. I ended up trying a few things, I power cycled the PS5, and I moved the USB from the front port to the rear. Still kept losing FFB. Eventually I was able to complete the race, and decided to go back to Forza on PC to see if its only happening with GT7/PS5. Well for a little while I raced in Forza on PC no problem, but eventually it did happen once. I power cycled the wheel again and kept going, and it never happened again after that. Then yesterday I mentally prepared myself for it to continue happening but I played an hour of Forza and an hour of GT7 and it did not repeat again. So confusing. Would appreciate any insight, it's not enough that I feel the need to contact support yet but I think my warranty expires at the end of this year so hopefully it's not a sign of more problems to come.
Like before I paused, and power cycled the wheel. However unlike last time which was a one off that didnt repeat, once I started racing again it kept happening. I ended up trying a few things, I power cycled the PS5, and I moved the USB from the front port to the rear. Still kept losing FFB. Eventually I was able to complete the race, and decided to go back to Forza on PC to see if its only happening with GT7/PS5. Well for a little while I raced in Forza on PC no problem, but eventually it did happen once. I power cycled the wheel again and kept going, and it never happened again after that. Then yesterday I mentally prepared myself for it to continue happening but I played an hour of Forza and an hour of GT7 and it did not repeat again. So confusing. Would appreciate any insight, it's not enough that I feel the need to contact support yet but I think my warranty expires at the end of this year so hopefully it's not a sign of more problems to come.
@Risto Kappet, what are your settings in game and wheelbase?.
Thats really weird, i was avoiding that race cuz I thought i wouldnt like the nsx. Ended up loving how locked in it felt, like more connected to the track than my usual amg, rsr, or m6. Ill double check my settings before i post.
Thats really weird, i was avoiding that race cuz I thought i wouldnt like the nsx. Ended up loving how locked in it felt, like more connected to the track than my usual amg, rsr, or m6. Ill double check my settings before i post.
- 69
- Denmark
GT7 and G Pro wheel: I don’t understand the implementation of steering angle.
For quite some time, I have wondered, why the Pro wheel does not have a simulated “hard stop” when you turn the wheel to one extreme, because I have noted that the wheel does simulate this just fine in ACC. What I want is in other words, that when the little red dot in GT7 can not move further to the side, the steering wheel can not be turned further either. This gives you the same type of feedback in a real car: When the wheels can not turn further, neither can the steering wheel. Simple, right? But it seems that in GT7, you just turn and turn far beyond the point where the wheels are not.
However, now I have found that it CAN work like this in GT7, if you on the track before race start, change the Angle parameter on the wheel. (The cars I have tested get the “hard stop” with Angle at 180.) Then it works.
The problem is that it seems that GT7 sends out Angle 1080 at any given opportunity, so I suppose this is why Logitech recommends to set Angle to 1080 because that is what GT7 will send it anyway.
Is there any good reason why “hard stop” is not the norm? Why not simulate how cars work? Am I the only one wondering? Or have I done something wrong, since I don’t per default have this function?
EDIT:
Ok, I have just realised that the red dot in GT7 does NOT correspond to how much the wheels turn. I always thought that when the dot could not move further, then there was no point in turning the wheel more. This is not so. Duh.🙄
For quite some time, I have wondered, why the Pro wheel does not have a simulated “hard stop” when you turn the wheel to one extreme, because I have noted that the wheel does simulate this just fine in ACC. What I want is in other words, that when the little red dot in GT7 can not move further to the side, the steering wheel can not be turned further either. This gives you the same type of feedback in a real car: When the wheels can not turn further, neither can the steering wheel. Simple, right? But it seems that in GT7, you just turn and turn far beyond the point where the wheels are not.
However, now I have found that it CAN work like this in GT7, if you on the track before race start, change the Angle parameter on the wheel. (The cars I have tested get the “hard stop” with Angle at 180.) Then it works.
The problem is that it seems that GT7 sends out Angle 1080 at any given opportunity, so I suppose this is why Logitech recommends to set Angle to 1080 because that is what GT7 will send it anyway.
Is there any good reason why “hard stop” is not the norm? Why not simulate how cars work? Am I the only one wondering? Or have I done something wrong, since I don’t per default have this function?
EDIT:
Ok, I have just realised that the red dot in GT7 does NOT correspond to how much the wheels turn. I always thought that when the dot could not move further, then there was no point in turning the wheel more. This is not so. Duh.🙄
Last edited:
- 20
- United States
This might require GT7 to support a dynamic hard stop since how far you can turn the wheel can vary based on your suspension settings and load on the suspension. A lot of complaints about undriveable cars after 1.49 can be attributed to this. Although this was present prior to the update, it now affects a wider range of cars post update.
Hi @LOGI_Rich. First of all, I wanted to tell you that I truly appreciate all you do for this community. I hope that the management at Logitech is aware of the fact that you single-handedly kept the G Pro Wheel community hopeful and patient throughout the last two years. Without your engagement and reassurance, I am certain that many, many customers would have jumped ship to different brands/ecosystems. I personally believe TRUEFORCE to be a superior technology to what many other competitors have (or don't have), and I am glad that I kept my G Pro Wheel until now. Hopefully, they don't disappoint during the announcement of the new racing peripherals this month. As a Logitech fanboy, I want to believe! They must realize that the upcoming announcement will determine the success of the entire G Pro Racing ecosystem, right?
Anyway, I also wanted to find out if the website (https://support.logi.com/hc/en-us/articles/8358055253271-In-Game-Settings-for-Pro-Wheels) has been updated with the GT7 1.49 post-update recommended settings? Or, did the official recommendation stay the same? Please let me know if you can. Thanks!
Anyway, I also wanted to find out if the website (https://support.logi.com/hc/en-us/articles/8358055253271-In-Game-Settings-for-Pro-Wheels) has been updated with the GT7 1.49 post-update recommended settings? Or, did the official recommendation stay the same? Please let me know if you can. Thanks!
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I've noticed that some cars do have a hard stop at 180 and some not. So probably a GT7 thing.
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- Denmark
Yes, it varies from car to car, to simulate the real thing. That is why GT7 sends the Angle at every race. I was just really confused because I thought the red dot in GT7 represented the whole range of wheel movement, which is does not.
(I guess the thought is, that the red dot covers the steering range that is used 95% of the time. It just doesn’t appeal to my sense of logic, that on-screen you see the full range of the pedals but only some of the steering range.)
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- 70
- United States
- 70
- United States
Yes it still happens it's intermittent and very frustrating. I find that sometimes switching between classes, and sometimes using the controller sometimes creates issues.
It's very frustrating...I don't know if it's communication between PS5, whatever USB issue or what not. It's to the point where I cannot Host lobbies anymore because these gremlins are so inconsistent. Steering angle feels off, FFb will not feel the same at times.
It's more than just differences between cars. Last week was fun because just 1 track with 1 car and the GR2 felt great.
However I then tried to host a lobby with some people...a couple SS people and the like for a GT3 event test and it's off again. Which stinks because only option is to close out to restart everything hoping that works.
@LOGI_Rich is this some sort of Sony issue? Would drive hub solve this? Right now it seems those running the original firmware, with the added settings have FAR less issues here.
Why were the controls dumbed down? Plus why not let us roll back drivers? September 17 is coming up and I know a few people on this wheel that Don't want to update their driver, but know they'll have too If they want to add whatever is coming. However we can't test any of this because we cant roll back drivers.
It's very frustrating...I don't know if it's communication between PS5, whatever USB issue or what not. It's to the point where I cannot Host lobbies anymore because these gremlins are so inconsistent. Steering angle feels off, FFb will not feel the same at times.
It's more than just differences between cars. Last week was fun because just 1 track with 1 car and the GR2 felt great.
However I then tried to host a lobby with some people...a couple SS people and the like for a GT3 event test and it's off again. Which stinks because only option is to close out to restart everything hoping that works.
@LOGI_Rich is this some sort of Sony issue? Would drive hub solve this? Right now it seems those running the original firmware, with the added settings have FAR less issues here.
Why were the controls dumbed down? Plus why not let us roll back drivers? September 17 is coming up and I know a few people on this wheel that Don't want to update their driver, but know they'll have too If they want to add whatever is coming. However we can't test any of this because we cant roll back drivers.
The controls weren't dumbed down at all - we just made it so there weren't separate controls for legacy and Trueforce functions. The newer firmware has nothing to do with what you're experiencing. It's possible that GT7 is still using an older version of the SDK so we can ask Polyphony to look into that side of things.
The usual questions need to be asked though regarding connectivity - which port on the PS5 are you connecting to? Is a USB extension being used?
The usual questions need to be asked though regarding connectivity - which port on the PS5 are you connecting to? Is a USB extension being used?
- 70
- United States
Yeah this is exactly how I feel. I'm only an A driver and don't feel skilled enough to know what is going on here. However, the inconsistent feedback is driving me bonkers. I assume this doesn't happen in ACC because Almeida would be all over that....I assume.
Right now I've got a kid who is top ten on controller and fastest on controller in NA region and I can't say what DD he should go with. I'm losing to many hours going down this rabbit whole each week.
- 70
- United States
Please try the front port and see if it helps (assuming you have an original PS5, of course).
One thing I need to remind everyone though is to distinguish between the two things being reported here.
1. Drop outs in FFB
2. Changes in FFB behaviour, usually car-dependent
The second point is not something we can do anything about. Provided you always follow the same steps of only powering the wheel on when you're on the profile login screen of the PS5, the wheel will always do exactly what the title you're playing is telling it to do. Any of the changes in FFB feel since the 1.49 patch are purely coming from GT7.
The first point needs troubleshooting. Whilst we're on that, an additional question: do you race in shoes or socks and are you on a rig or at a desk?
One thing I need to remind everyone though is to distinguish between the two things being reported here.
1. Drop outs in FFB
2. Changes in FFB behaviour, usually car-dependent
The second point is not something we can do anything about. Provided you always follow the same steps of only powering the wheel on when you're on the profile login screen of the PS5, the wheel will always do exactly what the title you're playing is telling it to do. Any of the changes in FFB feel since the 1.49 patch are purely coming from GT7.
The first point needs troubleshooting. Whilst we're on that, an additional question: do you race in shoes or socks and are you on a rig or at a desk?
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- United States
Would drive hub fix issues if it's related to how Sony is communicating to the wheel.
I'm on a rig I usually drive barefoot. I'm plugged into the rear because the front USB port is slower
- 70
- United States
I only experience full feedback dropout if for some reason the game switches to the controller at the start of the race. That's annoying but not what Im referring too.
However sometimes the wheel feels heavier than others, some cars seem to incur clipping. In general though... Feedback just seems inconsistent, I understand feedback will be different from Car to car.... That being said it seems The more often I'll switch classes the more likely issues spring up.
Drivehub is unlikely to have any effect on this.
The front port is fine for USB gaming peripherals - speed is only really relevant for things like external hard drives.
With regards to clipping, that only occurs if the wheel is already at maximum torque output and an event happens that can't be produced because the wheel is already at maximum torque. Unless you're running at 10 in-game strength on a high downforce car then this is unlikely to be occurring, so could you describe what you mean when you say clipping?
The front port is fine for USB gaming peripherals - speed is only really relevant for things like external hard drives.
With regards to clipping, that only occurs if the wheel is already at maximum torque output and an event happens that can't be produced because the wheel is already at maximum torque. Unless you're running at 10 in-game strength on a high downforce car then this is unlikely to be occurring, so could you describe what you mean when you say clipping?
- 70
- United States
I've experienced it...but it's much better since 1.49... The inconsistency is the main issue.
I wish I could give you more specific info...what I can say is it is a real thing. Trust me I go through hours and days of frustration before I mention this stuff.
However I hate to speak as a voice of authority because I'm not an alien.
I wish I could give you more specific info...what I can say is it is a real thing. Trust me I go through hours and days of frustration before I mention this stuff.
However I hate to speak as a voice of authority because I'm not an alien.
Okay, but could you explain what you mean by clipping? And confirm what strength you're running the wheel at in-game (car/tyre combo also helps)? Finally, if you switch the OLED screen Home Screen setting to Torque then you can see what the output is. If it's not getting anywhere near 10/11 Nm when you experience clipping then it's not clipping in the traditional sense and instead you're experiencing the FFB that the game is telling the wheel to produce.
For inconsistency, also clarify if it's inconsistent for the same car/tyre combo or different cars.
For inconsistency, also clarify if it's inconsistent for the same car/tyre combo or different cars.
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- United States
In my case, I have not had any more FFB dropouts since the ones last Saturday that I mention in that post. When it was happening over and over I was driving the E30 M3 evo with racing medium tires on the nordschleife for one of the weekly challanges, which is a bit of an unusual combo but certainly not the most intense the FFB can get. I thought maybe it was some sort of overheat protection but I know I have felt the wheelbase/shaft get much warmer from extended sessions with no issues than it was when I was experiencing dropouts.
Maybe I will try that specific combo again and see if it induces the dropouts, but at least to me it doesnt seem like its signs of my wheelbase dying which was my worry.
Maybe I will try that specific combo again and see if it induces the dropouts, but at least to me it doesnt seem like its signs of my wheelbase dying which was my worry.
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- United States
- 1,290
- Canada
- the-1st-hawkeyez
All I’ve noticed is I can’t balance the torque and strength and weight on my wheel. It feels really light on a lot of cars and then suddenly explosive FFB events touching a curb or something, maybe a tire hits the fender and I almost break my wrists (bit of an exaggeration) but the rest of the race it feels lighter than I’d like with things on max.
But then another car I can hardly steer and have to reduce strength on the wheel. With 450 cars, I don’t know what to expect until I hop in a car and run some laps to find out, is the car going to be balanced or is it going to be feather light with huge spikes in FFB unless I drive as smooth as I can and avoid bumping anything or touching a curb or go through a dip too fast.
So I think it’s all just GT7 related which is unfortunate. Ran GT40 at Nurburgring last night, watch the replay some and the car looks like it has some front end issues. Kind of rocks left and right, looks spongy… I think it’s all PD physics “tweaks”. Some cars feel great (newer cars) other cars not so much.
But then another car I can hardly steer and have to reduce strength on the wheel. With 450 cars, I don’t know what to expect until I hop in a car and run some laps to find out, is the car going to be balanced or is it going to be feather light with huge spikes in FFB unless I drive as smooth as I can and avoid bumping anything or touching a curb or go through a dip too fast.
So I think it’s all just GT7 related which is unfortunate. Ran GT40 at Nurburgring last night, watch the replay some and the car looks like it has some front end issues. Kind of rocks left and right, looks spongy… I think it’s all PD physics “tweaks”. Some cars feel great (newer cars) other cars not so much.
- 1,193
- Surrey, United
- Marky264
Evening @LOGI_Rich Any settings for Test Drive Unlimited Solar Crown? 
- 70
- United States
That leads one definitive issue....that just happened again....
Sometimes the wheel reverts to 900 on wheel instead of 1080. I understand that the game then adjusts again....to specific angle once you are on track....but...when it goes to 900 everything is off cars oversteer etc... It's almost like it's going into 923 mode.
If you're playing the single player that's no big deal... But for example I just tried to do a nation's practice in a full lobby. Few minutes before we started I jumped in for practice lap. I immediately noticed the issue checked my wheel and it was at 900. Now here's the issue If I exit the lobby I miss the race... I tried turning the wheel off and on and even unplugged and plugged the unit back in to no success.
Sometimes this seems to be connected to using the controller for something and then grabbing the wheel to race. It's like some other communication between controller and wheel screw things up with PlayStation.
In fact a lot of the issues that we can't put our finger on also seem to occur... In a similar fashion... I should have mentioned this earlier It's one of the reasons why I've pretty much given up hosting lobbies at the moment.
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