Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[hawkeyez]

That leads one definitive issue....that just happened again....
Sometimes the wheel reverts to 900 on wheel instead of 1080. I understand that the game then adjusts again....to specific angle once you are on track....but...when it goes to 900 everything is off cars oversteer etc... It's almost like it's going into 923 mode.

If you're playing the single player that's no big deal... But for example I just tried to do a nation's practice in a full lobby. Few minutes before we started I jumped in for practice lap. I immediately noticed the issue checked my wheel and it was at 900. Now here's the issue If I exit the lobby I miss the race... I tried turning the wheel off and on and even unplugged and plugged the unit back in to no success.

Sometimes this seems to be connected to using the controller for something and then grabbing the wheel to race. It's like some other communication between controller and wheel screw things up with PlayStation.

In fact a lot of the issues that we can't put our finger on also seem to occur... In a similar fashion... I should have mentioned this earlier It's one of the reasons why I've pretty much given up hosting lobbies at the moment.

I’ll try shutting my controller off next time and only using the wheel. I know the steering angle changes depending on the car. I’m pretty sure this lighter feel is just PD doing what they do best… mucking around with stuff but not fully testing. I think all the gr.3 cars feel more well rounded and what do all the you tubers drive? I don’t, I drive historic stuff and it’s more chaotic in the FFB or inconsistent.

I’ll keep playing it, I hope they sort it out, don’t know if they’re even aware of it. But I’ll probably jump ship to project motor racing when it comes out as I’m getting tired of this FFB crap. I just have nothing else to race with the older cars right now.

Once again, FFB can feel light and still there but sudden WHAM you touched a curb or hit a bump in the road, tire hit the fender and it feels like it goes full torque. It’s not balanced feeling. Imagine running and then someone pushes you hard from behind or pulls you back. It kind of feels like that. Total surprise, hurts the wrists but you can’t turn it down because then you have nothing.

P4 is bad for it, 917k is bad, e type Jaguar, gt40….

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

I must be doing something right or different as I haven't experienced any of the issues with FFB etc. Very weird.

 

[hawkeyez]

I must be doing something right or different as I haven't experienced any of the issues with FFB etc. Very weird.

Do you drive only particular cars? For me, some cars feel great, other ones seem so random.

Mind posting your settings? I tried the Logitech ones with no luck, and also updated my firmware just in case.

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

I drive a variety of cars, on all grades of tires. I always start up the PS5 first, then the wheel. I'll look up the settings but they are posted in this thread. I'll post again.

I'd like to test a combo that you are experiencing issues with, if you could share specifics. Right now I can't really find any fault with the wheel. It's been very consistent in ffb, with the understanding that different cars/tires will feel very different.

Post in thread 'Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel' https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/logitech-g-pro-racing-wheel.412554/post-14311383

 

[hawkeyez]

I drive a variety of cars, on all grades of tires. I always start up the PS5 first, then the wheel. I'll look up the settings but they are posted in this thread. I'll post again.

I'd like to test a combo that you are experiencing issues with, if you could share specifics. Right now I can't really find any fault with the wheel. It's been very consistent in ffb, with the understanding that different cars/tires will feel very different.

Post in thread 'Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel' https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/logitech-g-pro-racing-wheel.412554/post-14311383

Well I’ve ran into FFB bursts in the P4 Ferrari (stock). The 917K (stock) and I’ve also had FFB bursts in the E Type Jaguar (stock).

The GT40 (stock) around Suzuka, the sweeping corners leading up to the back straight I’ve had what I would call a ghost yanking on the wheel around the entire corner. I try to hold it still but it just bumps and scrubs away.

IMO, the P4, the 917k and the GT40 feel wayyy lighter than then did before the update. I almost have everything maxed out except FFB sensitivity in GT7 is set to 3, torque is 10. Wheel is 11nm, can’t remember my filter and dampener settings but I’ve played with those and they don’t do much besides the dampener if I crank it up but then the wheel kind of feels lifeless and sort of muted. I noticed I kept spinning out exiting corners when I cranked the dampener up.

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

Well I’ve ran into FFB bursts in the P4 Ferrari (stock). The 917K (stock) and I’ve also had FFB bursts in the E Type Jaguar (stock).

The GT40 (stock) around Suzuka, the sweeping corners leading up to the back straight I’ve had what I would call a ghost yanking on the wheel around the entire corner. I try to hold it still but it just bumps and scrubs away.

IMO, the P4, the 917k and the GT40 feel wayyy lighter than then did before the update. I almost have everything maxed out except FFB sensitivity in GT7 is set to 3, torque is 10. Wheel is 11nm, can’t remember my filter and dampener settings but I’ve played with those and they don’t do much besides the dampener if I crank it up but then the wheel kind of feels lifeless and sort of muted. I noticed I kept spinning out exiting corners when I cranked the dampener up.

The cars are stock including the tires? Max torque in game and wheel?...Wow OK...I'll try that.

Edit...what are the lobby or TT settings?

 

[hawkeyez]

The cars are stock including the tires? Max torque in game and wheel?...Wow OK...I'll try that.

Edit...what are the lobby or TT settings?

Yep, add sheet, stock tires. Not sure lobby settings, usually real reduced grip off track, temporary damage. Not sure if that’s what you mean.

Yeah the problem is, some of these cars when reduced in game torque, my wheel doesn’t really feel like it’s doing much but another car with racing tires it can feel extremely heavy. So I made three profiles on my G Pro, one at 11, one at 9 and one at 7. At 7 it’s a lot less but then the wheel honestly is just kind of meh to me. The cars that start out with heavier steering, I can dial something in, it’s the ones that feel super light that is tough, and those are the ones that have the surprise FFB events, or spikes in FFB. I know it’s because a car (AI) hit me, or I maybe hit a sausage curb or a bump in the road or the tire hit a fender. I get that, but I’m not sure why it is so extreme at times.

We ran Eiger and over the mini jump, I hardly got air, landed and that time I immediately turned the FFB down because it was dangerously strong despite the car feeling Uber light in steering otherwise. That was a detuned Honda open wheel race car.

Before this update, the cars had some differences between them, I thought it could be narrowed or reduced a bit, but it feels like it went completely the opposite way. The wheel is there to give feedback in my opinion, it shouldn’t be so drastically different in weight from car to car. I think overall, newer cars feel better and the older ones got light feeling.

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

An older car on comfort tires will feel drastically different compared to a modern sports car on sports tires and especially race cars on race tires. When I switch up or down in grades, I adjust the torque strength in the game.

I'm generally in the 5 to 7 range for torque strength. I like to feel what the car is doing but want to avoid using a death grip on the wheel as that works against having fine detailed control of the car. Ends up feeling like I'm just fighting the car at every corner.

About to go try out your examples.

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

Unfortunately only able to run the 917. On torque strength in game on 10 I was seeing 11 NM in corners at Suzuka. Probably clipping. The car was difficult to control properly. I had to use a death grip and fight the wheel through most corners. Horrible experience. Tried it with torque on 5 and 6 with much better results and experience. Imo the 917 is not to light with the lower settings, but felt near perfect. Personal preference I'm sure.

 

[hawkeyez]

Unfortunately only able to run the 917. On torque strength in game on 10 I was seeing 11 NM in corners at Suzuka. Probably clipping. The car was difficult to control properly. I had to use a death grip and fight the wheel through most corners. Horrible experience. Tried it with torque on 5 and 6 with much better results and experience. Imo the 917 is not to light with the lower settings, but felt near perfect. Personal preference I'm sure.

I’ll try reducing the in game torque. Thanks Joe. Maybe that’s what’s happening, clipping? I’ll just get used of the overall lighter feel to reduce the spikes. I will state that I reduce my wheel strength on certain cars because I literally can almost not even turn the wheel on some cars with racing tires, reducing they end up feeling well balanced.

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

I’ll try reducing the in game torque. Thanks Joe. Maybe that’s what’s happening, clipping? I’ll just get used of the overall lighter feel to reduce the spikes. I will state that I reduce my wheel strength on certain cars because I literally can almost not even turn the wheel on some cars with racing tires, reducing they end up feeling well balanced.

I just leave the wheel on 11 and adjust in game as needed. Generally 5 for race cars, 6 for street cars/ street tires, and 7 for older cars and comfort tires.

I'm sure there was clipping on 10 in game. I was seeing 11nm. On 5 in game I was seeing over 6.5nm.

 

[hawkeyez]

I just leave the wheel on 11 and adjust in game as needed. Generally 5 for race cars, 6 for street cars/ street tires, and 7 for older cars and comfort tires.

I'm sure there was clipping on 10 in game. I was seeing 11nm. On 5 in game I was seeing over 6.5nm.

Ok thanks, I’ll give that a go. Mind sharing your filter and dampener settings? Maybe I’ll just copy what you have set up.

 

[Eegour]

@hawkeyez dont forget a lot of the older cars irl had crappier tires, poor suspension (compared to modern day), and sloppy front ends, so really they should be harder to control and less predictable.

Like here you wrote
“The GT40 (stock) around Suzuka, the sweeping corners leading up to the back straight I’ve had what I would call a ghost yanking on the wheel around the entire corner. I try to hold it still but it just bumps and scrubs away.”.
Sounds a lot like oversteer to me.

Also keep in mind there are vast differences in power steering applications over auto makers and cars. A lot of the older cars we drive in gt7 were/ are luxury/ performance brands. Often times these cars have their power steering overboosted, it may seem, compared to your average car. So the wealthy focks who buy them don’t chip a nail while driving irl.

I think you’re on the right track trying Oshawa-Joe’s settings. Sound like his settings are similar to mine. I haven’t experienced the issues you raise, but I probably dont drive as many different cars as you.

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

Ok thanks, I’ll give that a go. Mind sharing your filter and dampener settings? Maybe I’ll just copy what you have set up.

Filter 8
Dampener off

 

[hawkeyez]

Filter 8
Dampener off

You know what’s weird, I didn’t see this until now, raced all night with torque at 7 and sensitivity at 1, strength at 11nm and filter at 7 and dampener off.

Much better but I’m still not fond of the super light feel of some cars.

What I noticed is in game torque acts more like it’s adjusted peak torque. In my opinion anyway. I couldn’t feel much difference between 7 or 10 except for during corners, over curbs, collisions and bumps. Everywhere else pretty much felt the same to me.

The Daytona Coupe stock at Fuji was feeling way too light for my taste. I wish I could get just a bit more weight overall.

The stock BOSS429 is pretty much perfect feeling with those settings you shared, for me anyway. It’s not heavy, it’s not light, and I didn’t experience ANY weird FFB spikes at all and I was hopping curbs and stuff.

@hawkeyez dont forget a lot of the older cars irl had crappier tires, poor suspension (compared to modern day), and sloppy front ends, so really they should be harder to control and less predictable.

Like here you wrote
“The GT40 (stock) around Suzuka, the sweeping corners leading up to the back straight I’ve had what I would call a ghost yanking on the wheel around the entire corner. I try to hold it still but it just bumps and scrubs away.”.
Sounds a lot like oversteer to me.

Also keep in mind there are vast differences in power steering applications over auto makers and cars. A lot of the older cars we drive in gt7 were/ are luxury/ performance brands. Often times these cars have their power steering overboosted, it may seem, compared to your average car. So the wealthy focks who buy them don’t chip a nail while driving irl.

I think you’re on the right track trying Oshawa-Joe’s settings. Sound like his settings are similar to mine. I haven’t experienced the issues you raise, but I probably dont drive as many different cars as you.

Yeah I think it’s a bit of the older car thing. I’ll just have to put up with it.

 

[Sprotacus]

You know what’s weird, I didn’t see this until now, raced all night with torque at 7 and sensitivity at 1, strength at 11nm and filter at 7 and dampener off.

Much better but I’m still not fond of the super light feel of some cars.

What I noticed is in game torque acts more like it’s adjusted peak torque. In my opinion anyway. I couldn’t feel much difference between 7 or 10 except for during corners, over curbs, collisions and bumps. Everywhere else pretty much felt the same to me.

The Daytona Coupe stock at Fuji was feeling way too light for my taste. I wish I could get just a bit more weight overall.

The stock BOSS429 is pretty much perfect feeling with those settings you shared, for me anyway. It’s not heavy, it’s not light, and I didn’t experience ANY weird FFB spikes at all and I was hopping curbs and stuff.

Yeah I think it’s a bit of the older car thing. I’ll just have to put up with it.

I’m not a fan of cars feeling super light but give yourself a chance to get used to the settings as recommended. Up until the new physics I had my FFB Sensitivity constantly set at 10. When I first tried it at 3 as was recommended on this thread it took a bit of getting used and on the odd occasion I sometimes need to up it a bit to 4 or 5 if I feel a car is too light. But overall it’s usually just a case of tweaking the FFB Max Torque.
I use VR and was used to starting off then pausing to adjust the cockpit view and I’ve now just added fine tuning the in game FFB Max Torque setting to suit the car.
Using these settings the new physics and G Pro have been really impressive and deliver a realistic driving experience eg I was test driving a few legend dealership cars recently on Goodwood which after adjusting the FFB were responsive and reasonably light which made the cars feel right and a joy to drive. I then changed to an old and heavy ‘68 Charger and was blown away by the just how well the physics and wheel delivered the experience of driving a muscle car and feeling of managing weight transfer.

It can be frustrating as we all want a simple plug and play solution but the technical advice provided by @LOGI_Rich and advice of other users on this thread have really helped me to develop a better understanding of both the wheel and game settings. Try using the settings below as a baseline and tweak to your personal taste.

LOGI PRO SETTINGS
Strength 11
TF Audio 100
FFB Filter 8
Dampener OFF

GT7 SETTINGS
FFB Max Torque (Between 4-7 depending on Car/Tyres)
FFB Sensitivity 3
Vibration Strength 150

 

[hawkeyez]

I’m not a fan of cars feeling super light but give yourself a chance to get used to the settings as recommended. Up until the new physics I had my FFB Sensitivity constantly set at 10. When I first tried it at 3 as was recommended on this thread it took a bit of getting used and on the odd occasion I sometimes need to up it a bit to 4 or 5 if I feel a car is too light. But overall it’s usually just a case of tweaking the FFB Max Torque.
I use VR and was used to starting off then pausing to adjust the cockpit view and I’ve now just added fine tuning the in game FFB Max Torque setting to suit the car.
Using these settings the new physics and G Pro have been really impressive and deliver a realistic driving experience eg I was test driving a few legend dealership cars recently on Goodwood which after adjusting the FFB were responsive and reasonably light which made the cars feel right and a joy to drive. I then changed to an old and heavy ‘68 Charger and was blown away by the just how well the physics and wheel delivered the experience of driving a muscle car and feeling of managing weight transfer.

It can be frustrating as we all want a simple plug and play solution but the technical advice provided by @LOGI_Rich and advice of other users on this thread have really helped me to develop a better understanding of both the wheel and game settings. Try using the settings below as a baseline and tweak to your personal taste.

LOGI PRO SETTINGS
Strength 11
TF Audio 100
FFB Filter 8
Dampener OFF

GT7 SETTINGS
FFB Max Torque (Between 4-7 depending on Car/Tyres)
FFB Sensitivity 3
Vibration Strength 150

Maybe I’ll bump sensitivity up to 3, I was having oscillation issues before. But I was at 10 torque.

They’re not going to change it just for me but I just feel some cars are a little too light and would rather not play the game or do some laps, bump the torque up or reduce it depending how I feel. I’d like to set it, leave it and race. For me the differences are just a little too drastic. That stock BOSS 429 feels pretty damn good overall. Best I can describe the Honda ra272 or Daytona coupe is it almost feels like I went and plugged my g923 in again. Feels fine just not a lot of weight to it at all.

 

[Eegour]

Is it the 17th yet???????????????????

 

[Sprotacus]

Ready and waiting to buy a manual shifter!

 

[Supercededman]

Do you guys think these sounds are normal?

Just this evening my G Pro started making strange noises, like grinding, or hitting curbs. Whilst stationary! Yes, sounded much like your video but I thought yours may have been TrueForce audio, as you were driving.

I'd put in several hours of practice, with some regular breaks. A mixture of road and race cars, with wheelbase strength (always) at 11, in-game at around 6 or 7 most of the time.

The noise I was hearing was accompanied by a weird graininess which i felt through the wheel, as though there was something grinding inside the wheelbase. This all occurred only after a shortish session on a very high downforce Gr1 car in GT7 (hybrid Toyota, I think). I would not be suprised if I was getting a LITTLE clipping, but I did have it set to FFB 6-7, as I said, so as to not overload the wheelbase.

I was using VR, so was not able to see what FFB figures I was getting, but when taking the headset off I did see it spike occasionally, but was not game to use the wheel too long.

No strange smells, didn't feel hot or even warm. Go figure. I'm hoping it just needed a 'rest'

 

[Eegour]

@Supercededman is your vibration set to 150 for truforce?

 

[morfei1]

@LOGI_Rich , a quick question. If the TF is sat at lvl 100% in the base, but we play a game like rf2 or AC. That's this have any negative effect of the overall feeling when driving in this game?

I'm asking because I need to free up some profile slots?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

If the game doesn't support Trueforce then the TF Audio setting has zero effect on anything.

 

[Tommy moon]

Maybe I’ll bump sensitivity up to 3, I was having oscillation issues before. But I was at 10 torque.

They’re not going to change it just for me but I just feel some cars are a little too light and would rather not play the game or do some laps, bump the torque up or reduce it depending how I feel. I’d like to set it, leave it and race. For me the differences are just a little too drastic. That stock BOSS 429 feels pretty damn good overall. Best I can describe the Honda ra272 or Daytona coupe is it almost feels like I went and plugged my g923 in again. Feels fine just not a lot of weight to it at all.

@hawkeyez I have a suggestion....why don't we take the weekly race that features a GT3 class car and all work to dial in settings that way. For example this week the Meta Lambo gets light on corners and I think we could all learn if we share results and setups week to week this way.

Also if you have specific road cars you use....I'm not big in that but I know guys that run a lot of leagues etc that might be able to give you better input than myself.

If you go to digits website you can always see the top three cars used per event and the percentage each is being used. You can also see the leaderboards and with registered drivers see what setup they use....so if I see any top guys using Logitech gear I will get their settings and try to bring them into the conversation.

We can get better together... After a few months we could even have best settings for large number of different cars.

Let me know if you are interested, and I'll put in the work ... Maybe even move it over to a Discord

 

[Tommy moon]

@LOGI_Rich

Ok here's an example of the "inconsistency"

Before I thought I had something to do with the game communicating to the wheel and something getting mixed up going back and forth between controller and wheel.

However I'm experiencing the issue a lot more in lobbies. So I jump in this lobby... Well known lobby.... It can be hard to get a spot so you can't just jump in and out something goes wrong...

So I jump in everything is fine. The problem seems to arise when the lobby switches between new tracks.... Or maybe a lobby crashes in that process and they immediately reset lobby.

It seems that somehow in the process of resetting or changing tracks etc my wheel bounces to 900 from 1080... And even if it corrects to 550 on the track I seem to experience a lot of understeer... Almost like the wheel is in the wrong mode or something.

 

[hawkeyez]

@hawkeyez I have a suggestion....why don't we take the weekly race that features a GT3 class car and all work to dial in settings that way. For example this week the Meta Lambo gets light on corners and I think we could all learn if we share results and setups week to week this way.

Also if you have specific road cars you use....I'm not big in that but I know guys that run a lot of leagues etc that might be able to give you better input than myself.

If you go to digits website you can always see the top three cars used per event and the percentage each is being used. You can also see the leaderboards and with registered drivers see what setup they use....so if I see any top guys using Logitech gear I will get their settings and try to bring them into the conversation.

We can get better together... After a few months we could even have best settings for large number of different cars.

Let me know if you are interested, and I'll put in the work ... Maybe even move it over to a Discord

That could work but not a huge fan of GR3’s. The problem comes in, I can set the wheel how I like it but once I get in another car, everything can change. Like I say, some stock cars have a nice weight to the steering and good feedback, other stock cars feel much too light but then have some FFB spikes I would call them. For how light the steering is most of the time , the feedback I i do get seems too extreme for what I just feeling seconds ago. I’d that makes sense.

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

That could work but not a huge fan of GR3’s. The problem comes in, I can set the wheel how I like it but once I get in another car, everything can change. Like I say, some stock cars have a nice weight to the steering and good feedback, other stock cars feel much too light but then have some FFB spikes I would call them. For how light the steering is most of the time , the feedback I i do get seems too extreme for what I just feeling seconds ago. I’d that makes sense.

When do you get the FFB spikes? Any chance it's due to road impacts?

 

[hawkeyez]

When do you get the FFB spikes? Any chance it's due to road impacts?

It’s been reduced since running your settings. But at the cost of a little lighter weight to the wheel on some cars. Could be a curb, could be road impacts, could be AI turning into me down a straight (not sure why they do that). I honestly don’t know how to put it, dynamic range is too much in my opinion. Can go from light wheel to strong feedback. Can also learn how to drive to not get it happening as often.

 

[Tommy moon]

That could work but not a huge fan of GR3’s. The problem comes in, I can set the wheel how I like it but once I get in another car, everything can change. Like I say, some stock cars have a nice weight to the steering and good feedback, other stock cars feel much too light but then have some FFB spikes I would call them. For how light the steering is most of the time , the feedback I i do get seems too extreme for what I just feeling seconds ago. I’d that makes sense.

What do you like to drive?

 

[Trk-el-son]

Regarding the differences in the amount of “weight” in ffb between car types in GT7: I just change the FFB setting on the wheel whenever I feel like it. FFB is basicly always available for me on my right rotary dial. (I use the ⏺️❎🔼⏹️ for the MFD settings - works MUCH better for me than the dials.)
In-game FFB is set so the “lightest” cars get 11 on the wheel and in the “heaviest” cars I am probably down at 7 on the wheel.
I don´t really consider it to be an issue to have to adjust FFB when changing car type. If you feel it is a hassle, just think of ACC drivers who will have to consider tire pressures even before they eat breakfast.😉