Put another hour into it. Lol. it’s better. Ill try to go by memory.
turn trueforce audio to zero on wheel settings@LOGI_Rich Lets say I want to "turn off" Trueforce for a few runs just to see how my Pro Wheel would feel without it and how non-Trueforce wheels (like say a Fanatec Podium DD2) would feel.
How could I do this?
Wow really? I did try that and it felt totally strange. Are you saying that the top tier wheels like Podium DD2 have NONE of those kerb feel vibrations etc? Really?turn trueforce audio to zero on wheel settings
@LOGI_Rich Thanks very much indeed!!! After a few days of testing (on account of the intermittent nature of the issue) I believe that you have solved my problem.@TimmyTimmy Is there a possibility that you're nudging the clutch? Either the actual pedal or one of the dual clutch paddles? If you do this then it will shift to neutral... although you will be able to then change gear with the gear paddles to carry on, so do check if your clutch is actuated at all using the indicator bars on the OLED screen of the wheel base.
The clutch in GT7 is stupid. It’s essentially a switch not a clutch. I don’t know of any manual transmission car with a clutch pedal that just resorts to neutral as soon as you touch the clutch.@LOGI_Rich Thanks very much indeed!!! After a few days of testing (on account of the intermittent nature of the issue) I believe that you have solved my problem.
It appears that sometimes I was inadvertently activating the clutch pedal when I was braking, because I had the pedals too close together. My foot would sometimes catch the clutch pedal. So I adjusted the pedal spacing and now the problem seems to be gone. Btw, it is so easy to adjust these pedals - they are very nicely engineered indeed.
Thank you once again!
Ok so right now GT&'s implementation of clutch en H shifter is just clutch on/off and not linear?Well even if it worked like it should it could help save slides? Just thinking when I drive on ice, in my manual vehicle when I was a teen, the clutch was my friend. Start losing traction, push clutch in and gain control. Can you I wings how dangerous it would be if in a real car you had to push the clutch in and then let it out and before it would go again you had to put it back into gear? Sure you could get used of it but simply pushing the clutch in and out again is intuitive. But you’re right there needs to be a linear progression somewhat in the clutch not just on off.
maybe with the pro shifter it will work like that idk
I haven't used an H-shifter in GT7 but based on how it's been since GT5rologue (when I got my G25), I'd guess it's a crap on / off switch, there's maybe a millimetre of travel where it technically 'slips', but it's not noticeable or useable.Ok so right now GT&'s implementation of clutch en H shifter is just clutch on/off and not linear?
Than for GT7 it is an no go for me as is an I will happily remove the clutch from my Pro Pedals.
Love the pedal shifters so no worries. Would just be very cool to have an H pattern shifter with clutch driving old Rarri's and Porsches.
Indeed but an expensive pro shifter with ****** GT7 implementation is not something I would buy either.I haven't used an H-shifter in GT7 but based on how it's been since GT5rologue (when I got my G25), I'd guess it's a crap on / off switch, there's maybe a millimetre of travel where it technically 'slips', but it's not noticeable or useable.
In addition, they have enforced lots of weird unrealistic limits on how you change gear to stop it being an advantage in time trials, things like absolutely 0 throttle whatsoever when you physically push the stick in to gear, even if clutch is right down and so on.
It's a crap implementation, but really once racing, you never slip the clutch, you can get used to being very deliberate with coming fully off the throttle when shifting up, and it's so much more of a tactile experience actually shifting gears.
A bit like you, I'm waiting for a 'PRO' shifter from logitech, because the plastic child's toy they currently offer is not acceptable alongside a £1,000 wheel
If you start a thread I’d post in there. Would be nice to have a bunch of different peoples settings handy to try. I don’t change per car but I did recently play ACC and it was much more lively and heavier so I went back to GT7 and cranked the strength up a little and reduced all the feedback filter and dampening. So far my wheel doesn’t shimmy on the straights in that game, I may dial it back a hair and then go dial back ACC some more. I think I prefer a lighter wheel, but the G Pro is nice with having all that headroom.Guys, curious as to what are popular settings for GT7 or do some of you change this based on the car or mood?
Basic extension cables are not recommended. You need an Active Repeater cable.Hello, does anyone know what kind of USB extension cable do I need to buy to have no issues with this wheel? I'm connecting it to PS5 and will use VR2. Do I need USB 2.0 type or USB 3.0 type? Are there any special cables that would make my experience better? I want to buy a 2-3m one.
I can't find a single one that is 2-3m. Maybe there is no data loss when it's shorter? The shortest ones I've found are 5m. Do I need USB 2.0 or USB 3.0? I'm considering buying just a 5m cable, without any extensions. If I remember correctly, the one that is included in the wheel is 2m only?Basic extension cables are not recommended. You need an Active Repeater cable.
Even if I don't attach your cable to it and just use a single cable (it's a single cable)?That still counts as an extension
Feel free to give it a try but if you run into any issues then an Active Repeater is the way to go.