Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

I got the Pro Wheel with Pro Pedals and the RS Shifter & Handbrake but the shifter doesn´t work in GT7.

The firmware of the shifter is the latest and it´s recognized and working on my PC in G Hub.

However, in GT7 it doesn´t work. I plugged the shifter in a USB-Port of the base (like the pedals), put the switch on the shifter in shifter mode and screwed the bar in the blue marked hole.

The shifter neither works in the options configuration nor in a car on track. Same situation if I switch to handbrake mode.

Does somebody know what I´m doing wrong?
 
Check that you’re on a recent enough version of G HUB. You need to be on at least 2024.4 (if I remember correctly) to get the newer version of the wheel firmware but the latest version is 2024.9. You’ll know if you’re on the right version because in handbrake axis mode it’ll actuate the handbrake test bar on the OLED.
 
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G Hub Version is 2024.8.64186
RS Shifter Version is 13.03.13
None of them is updateable.

Do You mean the OLED on the base on Modus "Test" with the 6 functions (C, B, G, H, AA, AB)?
So it´s Clutch, Brake, Gas, Handbrake right?
But what measn AA and AB?

However, only Clutch, Brake and Gas does react, the other three bars doesn´t move.
 
I fixed it:

I checked wheel and shifter seperately in G Hub with not firmware update options.

I had to plug the shifter to the base and the base to my PC and then I got the firmware update.

After the update shifter is working in GT7.

Thank you for your quick support @LOGI_Rich
 
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I bought the RS wheel hub and I'm not wanting to use it down to the rattling buttons or whatever it is, much noiser than the standard wheel, What went wrong in making these? cheaper materials? Anyone not having this issue and should I rma it? , Even the X button on my original wheel going rattly, For that kind of money this is not good.
 
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DivitLad
I bought the RS wheel hub and I'm not wanting to use it down to the rattling buttons or whatever it is, much noiser than the standard wheel, What went wrong in making these? cheaper materials? Anyone not having this issue and should I rma it? , Even the X button on my original wheel going rattly, For that kind of money this is not good.
Click to expand...
It happens when you have trueforce turned up too high. It's the high frequency vibrations. I keep trueforce turned down a bit to prevent masking what is more important, the FFB for tire grip and weight transfer. I still feel everything from trueforce, it's just not cranked up to buttkicker levels. I use a buttkicker for that. The benefit is very little if any perceived button rattling from the high frequencies.

But if it bothers you, yeah send it back.
 
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I ordered one week ago the RS shifter directly on Logitech website and since then I never received any shipment notifications (just order notification). I expected Logitech to be but faster then that. Bit disappointing….. the support is also not responding whether on my emails nor on contact attempts via the chat support :D
 
15 days waiting because it was missing a USB to micro USB cable with my pedal board.
Answer: return all products (pedal + base !!!), we refund you within 3 weeks and you can order another one !
I helped myself by buying a cable.
Patience...
 
Alex-ffm
I ordered one week ago the RS shifter directly on Logitech website and since then I never received any shipment notifications (just order notification). I expected Logitech to be but faster then that. Bit disappointing….. the support is also not responding whether on my emails nor on contact attempts via the chat support :D
Click to expand...
They're busy, taking a week from order to receiving it for my rs hub and wheels. don't get notification till it is shipped
 
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Alex-ffm
I ordered one week ago the RS shifter directly on Logitech website and since then I never received any shipment notifications (just order notification). I expected Logitech to be but faster then that. Bit disappointing….. the support is also not responding whether on my emails nor on contact attempts via the chat
Click to expand...
Yeah, they are probably busy and i dont think their website/inventorysystem is helping either.

The shifter was the first thing that i recieved ealier this week. Took 9 working days from order to get it.
The wheel is in transit.
The pedals no information.

Everything was is ”in stock” for at least a week after i ordered. Now 13 days later they seem to be low on pedals, so i guess thats why they haven’t sent them yet, hence my comment on inventory/ordersystem vs whats shown on the webb.
But thats what we in sweden call ”guyguessing”

I’ve lowered my expectations and will be happy if i have everything before x-mas.

Hope you get your shifter soon.
 
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Sprotacus
Having the Trueforce set to 0 is questionable and I'm not saying he's right about that but he's not using a G29, he's using a Thrustmaster TGT 2. I also really don't want to have to turn Trueforce down/off as having it played a part in my decision to buy the G Pro.

Trueforce aside, the main reason for posting was to get other opinions on his take on the in-game controller steering and force feedback sensitivity settings. His previously advised settings before the physics update seemed to work well for me but these new in-game settings are entirely different.

I'm just trying to get the best out of my G Pro and eliminate any in-game settings adversely affecting its feedback/performance.
Click to expand...
FYI we reached out to Polyphony because some of the things in that YT video seemed incorrect, based on the in-game descriptions of the settings. I'd previously said that the controller sensitivity setting didn't have any effect on wheels and the description of the FFB Sensitivity setting also seemed incorrect, so here's the response from Polyphony:
  • "Controller Steering sensitivity" only affects the pad type controller and has no effect on steering wheels.
  • "Force feedback sensitivity" emphasises the feel near the centre of the steering wheel and has no damping effect.
 
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LOGI_Rich
FYI we reached out to Polyphony because some of the things in that YT video seemed incorrect, based on the in-game descriptions of the settings. I'd previously said that the controller sensitivity setting didn't have any effect on wheels and the description of the FFB Sensitivity setting also seemed incorrect, so here's the response from Polyphony:
  • "Controller Steering sensitivity" only affects the pad type controller and has no effect on steering wheels.
  • "Force feedback sensitivity" emphasises the feel near the centre of the steering wheel and has no damping effect.
Click to expand...
Hello LOGI_Rich,
First of all, thanks a lot for your support on this thread and morevover.

Despite the topic of YT video, i wanted to talk about "Controller Steering sensitivity" on steering wheels with GT7.
I own the Logitech DD Pro Wheel and Pedal bundle since the begining, then the RS Wheel and hub.

I only play GT7 on PS5.

Since always "Controller Steering sensitivity" settings DO HAVE A HUGE EFFECT on DD Pro Wheel.
It’s super easy to feel it and don’t understand why we say it has no effect.

I Don’t understand why you don’t mind on that. Obviously, changing "Controller Steering sensitivity" value changes immediately the feeling and behavior of the DD Pro Wheel.

Sorry to be annoying.
Best regards.
 
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I think I saw that video, I tried messing with controller sensitivity settings to extremes both ways, I couldn’t feel a difference.

What does emphasizing the feel near centre actually mean? Thanks.
 
@Katlioma The controller steering sensitivity is effectively an adjustment for the steering axis on the controller only - basically making it more or less sensitive around the centre to inputs from the analog stick. It's there to account for the fact that you have a very limited range of physical movement with an analog stick so some people do enjoy the ability to adjust the output from its movements.

With a steering wheel this is of course not an issue. I've tried adjusting to both extremes of the controller steering sensitivty with a wheel and can feel/detect no difference in the output to the game's steering. This seems to be confirmed by Polyphony themselves and I think we should all take their word for it, as they are the developer.

@hawkeyez think of it like a curve going from centre to full lock. With lower values for the FFB sensitivity that curve will be more linear so you get a more gradual build up of force felt in the wheel as you turn it; with higher values it makes the curve much steeper from the centre point of the wheel so you feel that force build much quicker.
 
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Hello all i discovered some strange things on gt7 :
i'm A/S level, and i see that the A+/s guys,watching camera car, have not steering vibration or micro movement due to road/curbs etc.
its like we set TF AUDIO to 0 or something.
So i tried to set low TF Audio and i still put down my lap timing. (less output data by the wheel = more smooth output data = more curve speed specially on slow corner = more traibraking).
It also works if we set FFB filter to max = 15 ...
Another value that make you faster is the Dampner. I've tried to set it to 30 and i see the car is more stable and less nervous because the wheel is more smooth.

so GT7 "punish" the Trueforce with slower speed and less handling.Should be the opposite!!!!
 
I am excited to report that I will soon be using a Logitech G Pro wheel again. I got one refurbished from Logitech directly for $589. I will be able to use my USB button boxes and custom rims thanks to the Logitech QRs I bought, plus I got a Drive Hub for connectivity on PS5 with my pedals, HE Sprints. Any insight or lessons learned on using the Drive Hub with a G Pro wheel? Does it impact the FFB at all?
 
LOGI_Rich
@Katlioma The controller steering sensitivity is effectively an adjustment for the steering axis on the controller only - basically making it more or less sensitive around the centre to inputs from the analog stick. It's there to account for the fact that you have a very limited range of physical movement with an analog stick so some people do enjoy the ability to adjust the output from its movements.

With a steering wheel this is of course not an issue. I've tried adjusting to both extremes of the controller steering sensitivty with a wheel and can feel/detect no difference in the output to the game's steering. This seems to be confirmed by Polyphony themselves and I think we should all take their word for it, as they are the developer.

@hawkeyez think of it like a curve going from centre to full lock. With lower values for the FFB sensitivity that curve will be more linear so you get a more gradual build up of force felt in the wheel as you turn it; with higher values it makes the curve much steeper from the centre point of the wheel so you feel that force build much quicker.
Click to expand...
Thanks, so once they fix that wheel shaking in higher downforce cars we can begin utilizing that again? Haha
 

TrueForce 11 Nm​

image


This feature is for all Logitech® G Pro wheel users. It is possible to use Drive Hub to overcome the "safety" cap and experience 11 Nm of force in GT7. First, ensure everything is working correctly at the capped 7-8 Nm, then follow the steps below:


  1. image
    PRESS the PS button on the wheel to avoid accidentally pressing buttons in the game.

  2. Press &
    image
    HOLD both WHEEL DIAL CENTER buttons together (pictured above) until you see two Drive Hub RPM LEDs. One LED will appear at first. ONLY RELEASE when two LEDs appear:
    image

  3. TURN the LEFT WHEEL DIAL to change the amount of LEDs on Drive Hub's RPM LED gauge. One LED = 10% increase over the cap. Five LEDs (fifth LED is red) will provide you with the full 11 Nm:
    image

  4. Once you have selected the amount of increase you want, press &
    image
    HOLD both WHEEL DIAL CENTER buttons together again until the RPM LEDs turn off.

  5. You will need to repeat these steps each time you turn on the PS4/5® or wake it from rest mode.https://collectiveminds.gitbook.io/drivehub/manual/fanlogimodes
 
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For everyone who using a drive hub for ps5 and logitech wheel, it works perfect and unleash the full 11nm for gt7. keep in mind u need the latent update for the drive hub 😉.
 
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Hello everyone,
I have a problem with the cables for connecting the Logitech PRO Racing Wheel and pedal set. In practically every cable supplied with the set, the rubber sheath has separated from the plug, exposing the bare wires. This has never happened to me before, and I try to handle my equipment carefully.

Has anyone replaced the factory cables with others and can recommend ones that will fit?
Specifically, I’m looking for:

  • The shape of the micro USB plug that connects to the wheel.
  • Ferrite core shielding on the factory cables that suppresses interference.
  • Ideally, a cable connecting the wheel to the computer that is slightly longer than the factory version.
Does anyone have proven solutions for replacement cables?

Best regards!
 
LOGI_Rich
Thanks, although this hasn’t been needed since the 1.49 update where Polyphony unlocked the torque.
Click to expand...
I only feel the full 11 nm after setting via the Drive Hub, even after update 1.49. I accidentally forgot not to screw up the drive hub fully and immediately noticed that it was set too easily, especially if you have the force feedback setting in the game in gt7 at 2 to 10. Maybe someone can check that against, maybe my senses are wrong 😃
 

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