Logitech G25 or G27 Pedals with Nixim Mod Version 2

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@ nixim, yeah i totally understand what your saying dude, how would you compare the hardware and software of 1998 with say gt5(The real driving simulator) and a g27? Also i believe that driving with no abs on gt5 you feel alot more of the braking and weight shifting effect than driving with it turn on even at 1.
 
@ nixim, yeah i totally understand what your saying dude, how would you compare the hardware and software of 1998 with say gt5(The real driving simulator) and a g27? Also i believe that driving with no abs on gt5 you feel alot more of the braking and weight shifting effect than driving with it turn on even at 1.

As in real life, I have always found that using any aids takes away the feel of the car, like driving with boxing gloves on. When we do exhibitions and events for people who don't do racing much if at all, we have to set the cars up with some aids so they can get around the track. Whilst the newbies get to love it after a few crash bang laps I find it completely boring lol.

GPL was and still is a very hard game to get to grips with - because it is so realistic in terms of physics, iRacing is the latest development of exactly the same software. Dave Kemmer is the guy who is still in charge.
GPL failed to make a profit and was a financial disaster in its day because there were too few people willing to develop the driving skill needed to conquer it, but for those that did it was and still is extremely rewarding. GPL still has its own thriving community who are still making mods for it after fourteen years - no game has ever had such a devoted following.

Its a different world now, in 1998 I don't think there was any Force feedback wheels, and a lot of guys made their own. now we are spoilt for choice and can spend up to around 5K on a top quality wheel down to less than £100 at the bottom end - but still good value.

Simracing is developing at a blistering rate in hardware and software and the future looks absolutely brilliant for us all.

Dave
 
I didnt mean this to turn this into an anti MIXIM thread!
I Installed their first brake mod and it was brilliant.
Some points of what I have said and the reasons...

I dont want a heavy accelerator because after time it will make my leg tired. Most racing drivers use the accelerator as a switch anyway. I do to a certain extent but if im going too fast I dont have a problem backing off a fraction.

I dont want a heavy clutch because GT5 restricts us to a full press to make it work. Looking at all the cars Ive ever driven maybe Nixim should reccomend turning the progressive sping over??.. All my clutches seem to take more pressure on the fisrt part of the push. After that it gets really easy

I will drive barefoot or with boots on because I can....I never drive a race rig with boots on...My GF would kill me for not taking them off in the house. Ok I tried it when she wasnt in...;)
I drive real cars barefoot sometimes because Ive got used to it.

I dont think you need to feel the accelerator pedal with a heavy spring..You can guage that by the engine noise or at least the rev counter. Even when I drove carts with easy pedals I never had trouble with the gas pedal. My right foot is as good as my right hand.

Some people get suited and booted to SIM RACE....Others drive in bare feet or socks. I think sim racers can do either. Ive seen people wear driving gloves to sim race? The only reason race drivers wear gloves is for fire protection. I would preffer bare hands if it was an optioin. OK so if your a race driver and you want it to feel real go ahead wear your helmet too. I do though think that you can be a sim racer without going to those extremes
 
Not sure which screw your on about. If you can get at it you could try cutting a slot in it with a junior hacksaw then using a straight bladed screwdriver. Otherwise you could use a dremel with a cutting disk or a small drill bit (This option is very difficult) to cut the slot.

There are things called "easy outs" where you drill a hole in the screw and then use the "easy out" to get it out but im not sure they make them small enough.

You could always drill the head off the screw if that screw isnt vital for your pedals working?

Thanks. I got it with a left-handed drill bit from a hardware store. It was the allen screw which holds the clutch pedal on (bottom). It was stripped into a circle. I couldn't take off the cover as a result. Got a new screw at the store as well and I'm good to go.

Just installed and ready to give them a try!
 
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@thedeester1
No worries mte, as I said drive how you wish its your game,..... actually I agree at least about the accelerator, I find it plenty strong enough too. But then my reclined driving position means that I actually have to press the pedal and get no assistance at all from the weight of my leg.
Also as I said, the clutch is a bit of a compromise too, its hard to get the feel of a real clutch when you have only 30mm of pedal travel, but its not bad for a racing clutch which is well different to a road cars setup which you would probly compare it to. In any event its much better than the stock spring as it does have some feel to it.

have fun all anyway

Dave
 
Thanks. I got it with a left-handed drill bit from a hardware store. It was the allen screw which holds the clutch pedal on (bottom). It was stripped into a circle. I couldn't take off the cover as a result. Got a new screw at the store as well and I'm good to go.

Just installed and ready to give them a try!

Glad you got it out.
For future reference though sometimes when the Hex part of the allen stud is rounded off, tapping the top of the screw with a hammer (and punch) will knock enough metal back down to reform the hez shape in the stud. Just enough to get it out. It should then be replaced with a new one.
Im full of tips like this Im a multi skilled Electro mechanical maintenace Engineer (electrician with spanners) in a large factory.
The left handed drill bit you got was a good idea! The Easy Outs I spoke of are a similar idea.
 
Glad you got it out.
For future reference though sometimes when the Hex part of the allen stud is rounded off, tapping the top of the screw with a hammer (and punch) will knock enough metal back down to reform the hez shape in the stud. Just enough to get it out. It should then be replaced with a new one.
Im full of tips like this Im a multi skilled Electro mechanical maintenace Engineer (electrician with spanners) in a large factory.
The left handed drill bit you got was a good idea! The Easy Outs I spoke of are a similar idea.

I appreciate the tips. I'm positive they will come in useful.

EDIT: By the way, I'm loving the new pedals. I have the nixim mods in the brake and clutch, but I didn't change the accelerator because I was worried the other springs wouldn't be long enough. I'm wishing I changed because now I'm still using a bungee cord on the accelerator. I'll have a look to see what other people decided to swap it with.

The clutch I find to be surprisingly nice. It's got a nice weight and I don't feel like I have to push it all the way in to shift; even after calibrating on track.

The brake pedal is now better in pretty much every way. I'm using every car now with ABS 0 just for the fun of it.

It didn't take too long to adjust to the new pedals as well. Under an hour and I was pretty confident with them, with room for improvement of course.
 
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Mate if you are using a bungee cord on the accelerator, I recommend 100% to install the old clutch spring to the accelerator!
 
Not at all, you got better accuracy because of bigger resistance. Anyway its free so go try it!

Done. Thanks. Good advice.

It is much better for me in terms of precision, and there's no annoying cord under my foot. I also spaced out the pedals in the slim case I decide to wear a thin soled shoe (I've been using socks and it seems fine).
 
I noticed after changing the accelerator spring, with the old clutch spring, that the accelerator indicator doesnt go to 100% but only a bit earlier like 98%. What is the cause and how can I fix it? Anyone who noticed that too?
 
I noticed after changing the accelerator spring, with the old clutch spring, that the accelerator indicator doesnt go to 100% but only a bit earlier like 98%. What is the cause and how can I fix it? Anyone who noticed that too?

cut the spring a bit shorter
 
This means you cant compress it any more, and that 2% lost is because the spring is fully compressed and needed just a bit more?
 
I noticed after changing the accelerator spring, with the old clutch spring, that the accelerator indicator doesnt go to 100% but only a bit earlier like 98%. What is the cause and how can I fix it? Anyone who noticed that too?

I just checked my profiler and everything looked fine. Didn't see that 98% problem. Am I wrong in assuming that is where you checked it?
 
I think it's only fair to post this here as well:

I received the GTeye spring exactly 2 weeks after placing the order. It was shipped in a simple package. The instructions were emailed to me the same night I had placed the order – a very well put together PDF with colour pictures. I like colour pictures. Very clear and easy to understand.
Installation only required 2 tools, a Philips screwdriver and a 2.5 mm allen key. My allan keys are part of a flip open set and as such I could not complete the installation without 1 extra step. Well, actually more than 1 step. I had to remove the brake pedal from the base unit. This is a very simple procedure involving 4 screws and 3 wires. Inside Sim Racing has a nice video showing how this is done (Nixim install). Taking my time, and including re and re of the brake pedal , it took me just about 40 minutes for installation.

First impressions…wow. I am not going back to the stock spring. Braking feels so much more real now. It’s actually a bit stronger than I was expecting. There is definitely a learning curve. I have done a couple of 1 hour races wearing socks without a problem or undue stress or fatigue. The biggest difference I have noticed performance wise is in street cars with comfort tires or sport tires. Where it was very common for me to accidently over brake and cook the tires or spin out, I find myself braking “just enough”. Due to the progression etc, I have to really want to take the braking to 100%. It doesn’t happen by accident anymore. I’m actually enjoying running around on cs tires now. I know there is some debate regarding which spring to go with. I’ll be testing the Nixim soon but I imagine that is should be comparable to the GTeye. Once you have made a decision, don’t put it off. I didn’t realize how bad the original spring is until I changed it out.
Timed sessions will be done once I have received and tested the Nixim mod.
Had a bit of time to do some testing today, so here it is.

Update:
In addition to my first impressions:

After about a week of testing, the stiffer spring now feels completely natural to me. It's very easy to hit the brakes "just enough" even in panic situations. I had a 4 hour session at one point and had no effects from fatigue. No issue wearing socks, but shoes might be nice to try out. I was surprised to notice such a big improvement using the X1s. I don't spend much time on the brakes, but I guess when I was braking, I over braked less resulting in higher exit speeds out of corners. And then there was the Elise - I don't normally drive street cars / street tire without abs, but I prefer it as long as the brake balance is right. Results below. Nixim mod to be tested when it arrives.

Nixim - to be tested

I did a few 5 lap test races to record times before upgrading to the GTeye brake spring. All testing was done as follows:
No Aids, ABS on zero, on line lobby, track edge / grip on REAL, Tire Wear and Fuel OFF, Race cars on Racing Soft Tires. Elise 111R on Sport Soft Tires. I usually allowed 5 warm up laps prior to starting a 5 lap race. The exception was with the Elise. I have never used it without ABS and therefore needed about 12 laps to get a feel for it and set the Brake Balance to 4/1.

Results prior to upgrade: ------------ ------ GTeye
F2007 at Spa ------------ -------- F2007 at Spa
Session Best Time 1:41.323 ------------ Session Best Time 1:41.208
Race Laps ------------ ----------- Race Laps
1 1:43.330 ------------ ----------- 1 1:44.472
2 1:42.972 ------------ ----------- 2 1:41.602
3 1:43.069 ------------ ----------- 3 1:41.793
4 1:41.323 ------------ ----------- 4 1:41.433
5 1:41.408 ------------ ----------- 5 1:41.208
------------ -----------
F10 at Nurb GPF ------------ -------- F10 at Nurb GPF
Session Best Time 1:28.910 ------------ Session Best Time 1:28.776
Race Laps ------------ ----------- Race Laps
1 1:34.983 ------------ ----------- 1 1:33.093
2 1:30.323 ------------ ----------- 2 1:28.776
3 1:30.163 ------------ ----------- 3 1:29.386
4 1:29.448 ------------ ----------- 4 1:43.334 crashed
5 1:29.007 ------------ ----------- 5 1:29.014
------------ -----------
X2010 at Suzuka ------------ -------- X2010 at Suzuka
Session Best Time 1:00.158 ------------ Session Best Time 59.556
Race Laps ------------ ----------- Race Laps
1 1:02.775 ------------ ----------- 1 1:01.321
2 1:00.832 ------------ ----------- 2 1:00.306
3 1:00.229 ------------ ----------- 3 59.875
4 1:00.158 ------------ ----------- 4 1:00.053
5 1:00.467 ------------ ----------- 5 59.556
------------ -----------
X2011 at GVS ------------ -------- X2011 at GVS
Session Best Time 54:215 ------------ Session Best Time 53.617
Race Laps ------------ ----------- Race Laps
1 58.330 ------------ ----------- 1 59.024
2 55.126 ------------ ----------- 2 53.989
3 54.398 ------------ ----------- 3 53.888
4 54.215 ------------ ----------- 4 54.120
5 55.051 ------------ ----------- 5 53.617
------------ -----------
Elise 111R at Tsukuba ------------ -------- Elise 111R at Tsukuba
Session Best Time 58:334 ------------ Session Best Time 57.775
Race Laps ------------ ----------- Race Laps
1 1:03.050 ------------ ---------1 1:03.030
2 59.228 ------------ ----------- 2 58.651
3 59.905 ------------ ----------- 3 57.775
4 58.334 ------------ ----------- 4 58.374
5 58.758 ------------ ----------- 5 59.496 bad lap

Just received the Nixim Brake Mod and will be installing it tomorrow. Results will be updated in a few days depending on how long it takes to get used to it.

Few days later:

First impressions using the Nixim brake mod:

Quality appears to be same as the GTeye. Any concerns about one copying the other can be put to rest as they achieve almost the same result but in a different way. Where the GTeye is initially stiffer when I step on the brake, the Nixim is about 20% softer. The Gteye is missing just a bit of that last stage of progressive braking that is achieved by the Nixim rubber insert, but somehow still ends up feeling a bit more progressive through the full range. I was worried about the rubber insert requiring too much pressure to activate 100% braking once the range had been set in GT5, but that is not the case. I have no issues using the rubber insert with GT5 other than I am strongly considering reducing the length of the insert.

After a few laps I was actually enjoying that extra bit of pressure to engage 100% braking. Pedal travel was the only thing that has initially surprised me. After using the Gteye for a few weeks, it was leaving me feeling like there may be too much pedal travel and that it took too much effort to get to 100%. The Nixim in contrast has less travel – maybe about 3/8” less by my rough estimate and left wanting a bit more travel in order to have more precise brake control. This is very minor issue that I believe is resolved by reducing the length the rubber insert. However, I am not going to change anything until I spend a bit more time with the Nixim mod and also do the timed sessions.

Today’s initial shake down using the X2010 and Suzuka was producing very consistent 59s. Absolutely nothing wrong with the Nixim with the way it is shipped.

I can personally recommend both of these brake mods to G27 users. They achieve the same result in slightly different ways. I can honestly say it will be difficult to decide which one to leave in the pedal. Nice problem to have I guess. If anyone is considering getting one of these – order it today and you will have it in time for the later rounds of GT Academy. I’m pretty sure it will make the experience better and make you more consistent – maybe even quicker.

Times sessions to be completed in a few days.

DSC_0075.jpg

GTEYE spring on the left, Nixim on the right.
 
Hi, what springs combination do you suggest?
I dont use the clutch pedal so, my question is, do you think the gas spring is important, or should i order just the brake spring?
 
I keep hearing about guys that try the clutch spring changed into the accelerator pedal and don't like the extra pressure. Changing just the brake spring would be my recommendation.
 

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