Logitech Reveals G923 Wheel for PlayStation and Xbox

@kikie Sorry it took a while to get back to you on this but I've just confirmed that the G27 shifter works fine in G923. It's just the shifter functions that work - the d-pad and additional buttons do not have any function as those functions were already effectively carried over to the wheel rim.
 
@kikie Sorry it took a while to get back to you on this but I've just confirmed that the G27 shifter works fine in G923. It's just the shifter functions that work - the d-pad and additional buttons do not have any function as those functions were already effectively carried over to the wheel rim.
Thank you very much. Concerning the buttons that is actually not that bad and logical.
 
I don't believe in this TrueForce mumbo jumbo. No matter how advanced your FFB logic is, it's still limited by the hardware internals (which as far as I can see, is exactly the same as G27). Also 4000Hz update rate means nothing because you will be limited somewhere else, be it USB refresh rate, game physics and ultimately your own fingers/brain (for reference, ACC FFB update rate is "only" 333Hz). If what people are saying in reviews are right, it's basically just an extra rumble effect similar to the T-GT's T-DFB which I absolutely hate and always turned off in GTS. It doesn't give you any useful info about the car's behaviour and only serves to muddle up the actual FFB.

Finally the price - it costs $800 here down under. For that price they still couldn't bundle a h-shifter like the G25 (which I paid $500 for back in 2008). This isn't priced as an entry level wheel anymore. It's mid level and for that kind of money if you're serious about sim racing you might as well save a bit more and get a Thrustmaster/Fanatec. If you're really strapped for cash, then just get a used G27+Drivehub (which I'm sure will be updated to be compatible with PS5 when it comes out).

Also why isn't it named G31? Logi taking a leaf from Microsoft on how to name their products in the most confusing manner possible.
 
G29 was way cheaper for many years, i bought mine back in 2016 for about 250 €. 400 € sounds like an update that should position this wheel between the G29 and Thrustmaster offerings like the TGT. But its a bit small and the pedals, too. Materials are still mainly plastic, i suppose. G29 didnt felt great in thst regard. So i suppose this is still a good entry level wheel for people who want at least decent ffb. Big question is how that True Force really feels and if it makes a real difference. Or if its just a hyped gimmick like the TDFB on the TGT.

How is the transducer on the T-GT a gimmick? Playing GT sport on a T300 vs a T-GT is a world of difference. The tactile feedback is the best I’ve experienced in a racing game.
 
How is the transducer on the T-GT a gimmick? Playing GT sport on a T300 vs a T-GT is a world of difference. The tactile feedback is the best I’ve experienced in a racing game.

I suppose youre talking about the general ffb... the TGT is great, i really like it. But the TDFB is a very subtle effect that failed to wow me.
 
How is the transducer on the T-GT a gimmick? Playing GT sport on a T300 vs a T-GT is a world of difference. The tactile feedback is the best I’ve experienced in a racing game.

It's just a constant background rumble effect to mask the smooth-as-glass track surfaces in GT. It has nothing to do with physics at all and doesn't help you go faster. Proper PC sims with laser scanned tracks manage to give better feedback even without T-DFB compatibility. Instead of going on a branding exercise with Thrustmaster, PD should've fixed their track surfaces and improved their FFB. Instead we get an overpriced wheel with a very specific feature only for 1 game.
 
I bought 2 the both of them... I cant get particularly excited about them... The "true force" is just a rumble on the motors, I found it annoying tbh... I like mowing the lawn with a petrol mower the vibration eventually cause you hands to tingle...
From a technical perspective I was interested in it in order to add DriveHub Support..

The Xb1 version is a G920, with extra buttons, dials and a set rpm leds that are unused.. I assume they do something on PC, but that's of no interest to me. So if you were thinking of buying one for Xb1 and only xb1, don't.... but a G920, for half the price.. Maybe they will have support on the next gen consoles, but who knows.. the G920 has 2 buttons that are still redundant after 5 years..

The Ps4 version is just a G29, except if you play Grid or the other 2 titles... I only played grid. I wasn't impressed with the Trueforce..
That said, I think the unit is faulty, it was not calibrating correctly out of the box, like there was no grease in the bearings, it seems to have loosened up, but it doesn't feel right... Logitech support moves at the speed of molasses, I spent a week over and back with emails, still not even got passes telling them my name, I'm on my third agent..
 
The extras functions on the Xbox version are only accessible on Xbox if the developer uses the Trueforce SDK, which steps outside of the bounds of the otherwise strictly defined Xbox wheel specification. ACC on Xbox decided to make use of the extra controls; GRID did not (both make use of the LEDs).

I'm curious for a more detailed description of what you think is wrong with the PS4 version's calibration? How exactly wasn't it calibrating correctly?

As for the vibrations making your hands tingle - turn it down! Tune it so you're getting the same level of feedback that you get in a real car wheel, or whatever suits; we made it adjustable for this very reason. Also, if you have access to iRacing on PC or GT Sport on PS4 then try it in there. Both studios took a similar approach with the physics-based effects they're pushing to the wheel through the vibrotactile endpoint and it's a really interesting implementation.

Final point: both wheels are more responsive than their predecessors due to the new electronics - a couple of reviewers who have spent time with the wheel have picked up on this, including Shaun Cole in the review above.
 
The extras functions on the Xbox version are only accessible on Xbox if the developer uses the Trueforce SDK, which steps outside of the bounds of the otherwise strictly defined Xbox wheel specification. ACC on Xbox decided to make use of the extra controls; GRID did not (both make use of the LEDs).

I'm curious for a more detailed description of what you think is wrong with the PS4 version's calibration? How exactly wasn't it calibrating correctly?

As for the vibrations making your hands tingle - turn it down! Tune it so you're getting the same level of feedback that you get in a real car wheel, or whatever suits; we made it adjustable for this very reason. Also, if you have access to iRacing on PC or GT Sport on PS4 then try it in there. Both studios took a similar approach with the physics-based effects they're pushing to the wheel through the vibrotactile endpoint and it's a really interesting implementation.

Final point: both wheels are more responsive than their predecessors due to the new electronics - a couple of reviewers who have spent time with the wheel have picked up on this, including Shaun Cole in the review above.

As i said I think its simply faulty, which may account for it not feeling very nice... I'll try Grid on xbox and see how it feels if indeed that works...

when calibrating for the first time it turned may 90 degrees and stopped for a 1/4 second and then started again, it did this for the whole 450 cw, then 900 ccw and then 450 to center... I should have made a video but I was too lazy to go get my phone... after 6 or 7 calibration cycles it loosened up and started moving in a fashion I'm used to with all my Logitech wheels, I have all of them... Where it still looks off is when it returns to center... on all my other wheels including the xb1 flavour of g923 it centers at about twice the speed of the calibration, on this one it labours back to center at the same speed it calibrates... turning the wheel with no power, it feels rough like one of the bearings is rough or asymmetrical....
 
The PS4 version does return to centre slower than the Xbox version during its calibration - that's not an issue. Otherwise it should feel the same as the Xbox version when unpowered (and also when powered). Does the difference show up audibly in a video taken on your phone? You should definitely try it in more than one title too, to be sure it's not just the characteristics of that title's FFB.
 
The PS4 version does return to centre slower than the Xbox version during its calibration - that's not an issue. Otherwise it should feel the same as the Xbox version when unpowered (and also when powered). Does the difference show up audibly in a video taken on your phone? You should definitely try it in more than one title too, to be sure it's not just the characteristics of that title's FFB.
Thanks, I did a quick check of all my wheels, I never noticed before that the xb1 wheels calibrate in the opposite direction to PS4/PS3 ones.. I wish I had a video of the very first try on the G923... I'll try the other games tonight for sure.. Other product have been keeping me from getting stuck into the G923 in earnest..
 
are you still having issues with G923 and DriveHub ?
Yep, getting the tm pedals and the g923 too work in games with trueforce is a no go, just instant crash loading gt sport and in ACC menus or loading a race, works fine with non trueforce games as just works as g29, just happens i play gt and acc often and not liking the g923 pedals with them and would rather use my tm 3pa pedals have latest beta installed on drivehub
 
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Yep, getting the tm pedals and the g923 too work in games with trueforce is a no go, just instant crash loading gt sport and in ACC menus or loading a race, works fine with non trueforce games as just works as g29, just happens i play gt and acc often and not liking the g923 pedals with them and would rather use my tm 3pa pedals have latest beta installed on drivehub
How are you connecting the pedals ?
 
PS4 G923 wheel ,TM Pedals connected too TMrj12 adapter into hub and wheel too hub ps4 controller into hub , hub too ps4 pro, is it working for others?
 
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PS4 G923 wheel ,TM Pedals connected too TMrj12 adapter into hub and wheel too hub ps4 controller into hub , hub too ps4 pro, is it working for others?
Hi
Going to assume as you mentioned GT sport that you are on ps4...
You don’t need a controller in this case..
Just plug the wheel where the controller would go, pefals where they are.. you should be all good...
 
Hi
Going to assume as you mentioned GT sport that you are on ps4...
You don’t need a controller in this case..
Just plug the wheel where the controller would go, pefals where they are.. you should be all good...
Cheers will give a go later
 
Hi
Going to assume as you mentioned GT sport that you are on ps4...
You don’t need a controller in this case..
Just plug the wheel where the controller would go, pefals where they are.. you should be all good...
That's it working fine, I go along with you and the wheel sure loosens up after a few weeks, steering wheel is looser and not as smooth when turning wheel, can feel ruts as you steer and noisier also. my formula force wingman wheel red with the steel cable driven ffb was a better wheel imo and that was out long time ago. hows about improving your products logitech.
 
Playing Gt sport at tokyo this wheel feels absolutely awful when you turn and hit the metal strips on the road, the rattle and the clunking of the gears just does your nut in, worst wheel i've used in a very long time even my dfp gt makes less racket. refund in order, @LOGI_Rich you said a few months ago elsewhere that you's were looking into the ghub making our wheels less noisy, any further forward? as it is this wheel is not worth using.
 
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To be fair Tokyo is annoying on most wheels
Be fine if you felt the bumps going straight but you only feel them on logi wheels when you are turning, my wheel most certainly feels far from how it did when i bought it about a month ago, if a software update can solve it then great but when you have too turn the volume up way loud just too drown the rattling out then it's a waste of money and is a poorly thought out product, and woulda been nice getting the bumps going straight as it reminds me of going over the Forth Road Bridge in Scotland which i live near too :)
 
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@Pmc4068 A G HUB update wouldn't affect how the wheel is behaving on PS4 as the wheel doesn't save any settings in memory. I'm curious to hear if you experience any difference in the wheel if you take the Drivehub out of the equation - you don't specifically say if you've tried this, so I have to ask.
 
@Pmc4068 A G HUB update wouldn't affect how the wheel is behaving on PS4 as the wheel doesn't save any settings in memory. I'm curious to hear if you experience any difference in the wheel if you take the Drivehub out of the equation - you don't specifically say if you've tried this, so I have to ask.
Wasn't using the drive hub and tried it last night and using it there is very little differences. but basically you have too turn the ff effects way low or you are getting one hell of a rattly wheel. ps I also use it on pc
 
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Thanks, I wanted to check because I seem to remember reading some posts where people had some issues in Trueforce-supported titles when using Drivehub, although Podger might have addressed that by now with a firmware update. It might be useful if you had a video that demonstrated the noise (appreciate this can be difficult to do though!) as well as any commentary you might have on how you feel the wheel sounds in other titles (PlayStation and PC).
 
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