Looks like the Audi R8 its broken :\

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The ones that are talking about how a car handles...are using a Wheel or DS3? Did you guys know that when you turn with your controller, the wheels of the car turn way faster than with an actual wheel?
That is true but it is possible to drive with a controller if you do it right. I have experienced what you mention with PC sims but was able to make some minor adjustments and then could drive without issue. Basically I had to turn down the sensitivity of the controller analog stick to get a bit smoother in the turning motion.

Now of course when I drove with a controller I was one of those who just move the stick very gently and smoothly. When I used the controller on Forza and people would watch my replays they did not believe I was using a controller.

A lot of people however are "tappers" where they just tap the stick a little to get the car to turn and this can be really bad in some cars.
 
Did you read my post?
When you finish reading it, I must add that I set the DFGT to Simulation, with 6 FF and NO assist.

And, if I may, do you have GT6? With wich setup did you drive on it?

I read OP and some others not yours.

Now...I of course have Gran Turismo 6 Anniversary Edition (GT5 Signature Edition...GT4...etc...also played the first Gran Turismo back in 1998) just so you don´t have a doubt.

After reading your post...I have a Logitech G27 and I have no problems trying to dominate the Pagani Huayra with the right amount of gas at the right moment.

My wheel is set to simulation and FFB to 5 (since more than that gets to heavy and feels no natural at all). Then I always drive with all assists off and ABS 1 because at 0 the tyres lock no matter if you press the pedal a little..without ABS it just works as a button...ABS 1 gives you some progression while braking and feels better.

To understand some behaviour of the cars in GT6 you have to understand how physics works in it, for example in this game the weight distribution is way important and it can make the difference between controlling or not each car. (while braking and turning mostly)
Also the power of the cars, where the engine is and from where the traction comes. (front/rear/all).

Having in mind that, in GT6 the cars behave way too "mechanically". You can feel where the weight is all the time, where the power comes and because of that you can react in time to make adjustments and such things if something goes wrong. But also you need to be as technical as possible while driving, with more control of your feet and hands...some cars are easy to control and some needs more practice but at the end you can dominate those "hard" to drive cars (and even if they are not as realistic as you believe).
Some cars have a learning curve...this is not a game that you grab and then you press the gas and just turn in the curves...it will be too easy and too boring if it is that way.

I have the Huayra, is not easy to drive but once you get used to how it behaves you can control and dominate it. It takes patience and practice.

Also if you think the Huayra is hard...try to take curves with the Lancia Stratos even at low speeds. At first that car was a pain because it reacted in a so "weird" way...but since the engine is almost in the middle of the car, the car itself is small, and it has a lot of power...as I said...in GT6 the cars behave in a more "mechanical way", so it will respond as the physics are made to it.
It can be less real o not...but is one thing that you need to get used to...after a while you can handle it and the same will happen with the rest.

A lot of cars needs refinement in the physics though...too many cars...too many variables. It is hard to make everything 100% accurate/realistic.
 
I read OP and some others not yours.

Now...I of course have Gran Turismo 6 Anniversary Edition (GT5 Signature Edition...GT4...etc...also played the first Gran Turismo back in 1998) just so you don´t have a doubt.

After reading your post...I have a Logitech G27 and I have no problems trying to dominate the Pagani Huayra with the right amount of gas at the right moment.

My wheel is set to simulation and FFB to 5 (since more than that gets to heavy and feels no natural at all). Then I always drive with all assists off and ABS 1 because at 0 the tyres lock no matter if you press the pedal a little..without ABS it just works as a button...ABS 1 gives you some progression while braking and feels better.

To understand some behaviour of the cars in GT6 you have to understand how physics works in it, for example in this game the weight distribution is way important and it can make the difference between controlling or not each car. (while braking and turning mostly)
Also the power of the cars, where the engine is and from where the traction comes. (front/rear/all).

Having in mind that, in GT6 the cars behave way too "mechanically". You can feel where the weight is all the time, where the power comes and because of that you can react in time to make adjustments and such things if something goes wrong. But also you need to be as technical as possible while driving, with more control of your feet and hands...some cars are easy to control and some needs more practice but at the end you can dominate those "hard" to drive cars (and even if they are not as realistic as you believe).
Some cars have a learning curve...this is not a game that you grab and then you press the gas and just turn in the curves...it will be too easy and too boring if it is that way.

I have the Huayra, is not easy to drive but once you get used to how it behaves you can control and dominate it. It takes patience and practice.

Also if you think the Huayra is hard...try to take curves with the Lancia Stratos even at low speeds. At first that car was a pain because it reacted in a so "weird" way...but since the engine is almost in the middle of the car, the car itself is small, and it has a lot of power...as I said...in GT6 the cars behave in a more "mechanical way", so it will respond as the physics are made to it.
It can be less real o not...but is one thing that you need to get used to...after a while you can handle it and the same will happen with the rest.

A lot of cars needs refinement in the physics though...too many cars...too many variables. It is hard to make everything 100% accurate/realistic.

Great post and fair enough. No doubt you may be a better driver than I am and I´m ok with that.

Even so I still mantain my claim about the MR cars. It´s not a matter of "getting used to". I almost "learn to drive" in Gran Turismo (and I say that with pride), but it can´t be that to drive a MR car you just have to happen to be the reincarnation of Senna. And I´m not the only one saying that.

I still think that the stoppie glitch has something to be with this MR problem. Remember Enthusia? The V-Box that shows you in real time the weight transfer in G´s? There´s something on-off in GT6 with that transfer. I´m a clean driver and it can´t be that on a turn like the first turn in Deep Forest you just can´t keep the back end quiet, even with a constant gas input (about 30%) turning at 40 mph (not fast in any way). While I can be a dreadful driver there´s something odd here...

BTW, with the DFGT (if you buy the Huayra first) you can set the brake distribution to 1-1 and then the ABS-0 becomes usable. Arcade mode has to be patched too.....

:)
 
The ones that are talking about how a car handles...are using a Wheel or DS3? Did you guys know that when you turn with your controller, the wheels of the car turn way faster than with an actual wheel?

On my case, im testing it with a G27, but my FFB is set to 8. I will try with 5 and see what happens. I can't even turn a single corner without it spinning. This is with racing hard tires.
 
You really shouldn't need to, I raced an R8, it was bone stock but it drives like it's on rails in real life, the game not so much. IRL It turns very flat and neutral with almost no body roll and you can get back on power hard and fast.
I think there's a MR issue in GT6.

Hey, guys, we have here a REAL DRIVER who just happen to confirm that the behavior of the car IN-GAME is OFF because he drove THE REAL CAR IRL ON A TRACK...
What more do we need? Why do we have to keep saying thinks like "It´s your problem"... or "Adjust your driving style".... or whatever.... ?

There´s a problem here. Plain and simple.
 
Hey, guys, we have here a REAL DRIVER who just happen to confirm that the behavior of the car IN-GAME is OFF because he drove THE REAL CAR IRL ON A TRACK...
What more do we need? Why do we have to keep saying thinks like "It´s your problem"... or "Adjust your driving style".... or whatever.... ?

There´s a problem here. Plain and simple.
Driving a car in real life vs. driving in GT will be very different. You will ALWAYS overdrive in a videogame because there are no consequences for your actions. Also, the Stability control/Traction Control systems in modern cars is incredible. They do much of the work for you. Even cars like the C7 vette perform better when using the computer to assist the driver.

The pagani or R8 for instance are 99% of the time NOT DRIVEN completely RAW, because most people don't want to test their driving capabilities as well as crashing a multi-100k car.

Haven't you ever seen a video of some guy tapping the gas just slightly too hard in a 90's Supercar? they crash or spin it instantly.
 
Hey, guys, we have here a REAL DRIVER who just happen to confirm that the behavior of the car IN-GAME is OFF because he drove THE REAL CAR IRL ON A TRACK...
What more do we need? Why do we have to keep saying thinks like "It´s your problem"... or "Adjust your driving style".... or whatever.... ?

There´s a problem here. Plain and simple.
Noy quite. I could direct you to the hudson build and show you a proffesional driver who says that his car behaves accurately on the game.
 
I think this is more of a general issue with how GT6's new physics engine deals with all MR cars. All these threads including this one are saying that "X car is undriveable/broken" due to stability issues. The Lancia Stratos, Deltawing, R8 5.2, and R8 LMS... all of them are MR cars.

Now I know that in a basic sense braking with a MR car can lead to oversteer because the center-of-gravity is further to the back. But from what GENERALSAVANT said and Astro_BS-AS insisted, there's definitely a difference between the physical characteristics of the real and virtual R8 cars, and that's a problem.

Now also, if you see my post in the thread about the nose-tipping issue, you'll note that the possibility of a higher center of gravity may be causing both that problem and this one - because with that, the rear tires are lifted up more, and the car therefore almost has no rear tire grip, causing the spinouts.
 
Noy quite. I could direct you to the hudson build and show you a proffesional driver who says that his car behaves accurately on the game.
Almost like there's money involved or something..
Edit: That being said the FR with stock tires are very similar to the real world the rotation is progressive and controllable. MR are NOT that tail happy in real life. Unless your a snap crappy driver. Even formula fords...
 
It also depends on his expectations. I said to my friends that GT1 was realistic because it felt so much more like driving a car than the 80s car games I started on.
 
Driving a car in real life vs. driving in GT will be very different. You will ALWAYS overdrive in a videogame because there are no consequences for your actions. Also, the Stability control/Traction Control systems in modern cars is incredible. They do much of the work for you. Even cars like the C7 vette perform better when using the computer to assist the driver.

The pagani or R8 for instance are 99% of the time NOT DRIVEN completely RAW, because most people don't want to test their driving capabilities as well as crashing a multi-100k car.

Haven't you ever seen a video of some guy tapping the gas just slightly too hard in a 90's Supercar? they crash or spin it instantly.


I've read this before but I can safety call Bull:censored:. You say this until you drive IRL and dance with death in a $500K car you don't own. But that's not the point. The point is it doesn't take a all that much knowledge to know that a car shouldn't get over steer at 10mph unless it's raining kittens and mittens. Conversely a 4wd GTR shouldn't get understeer while lifting and turning over 60+ TRUST me on that. I've raced a GTR with 900hp at the wheels and never ever ever ever ever ever experienced understeer the way it happens in the game. But for my money MR is just wonky in the game, without even pushing the limits.

EDIT: to be clear for what it's worth (not much) I think GT6 is the closest approximation to the real world thus far.
 
its just me or the Audi R8 its completely broken? it drives like a viper without traction control. Even the most gentle turn will make it spin :\

PD: Im talking about the R8 5.2 FSI Quattro '09
I noticed a similar thing with a lot of the MR cars. The Ferrari 512 I sued for an event was terrible. I had to be super careful around turns... it constantly wanted to spin.
 
I think its a simple case of driving technique. I have been using a Mk2 MR2 Turbo quite frequently and at first I was all over the place. After the changes made to the physics for GT6, the fact is that you can't simply throw a mid engined car into a corner and expect the weight behind you to obediently follow in line. Once I drove more smoothly, the car didn't feel as scary. I'm guessing the same will apply to the R8.

This. It is not broken, you need to have finesse to drive it.
 
Several of the MR cars are a bit tricky. The easy fix is to add a little ballast weight and shift it to the front. The troublesome cars are ones that are heavy in the rear, bring the balance to 50:50 and they drive fine.

I have also found that you can use that liftoff oversteer to your advantage and go through corners faster if you do it right but takes a bit to get a handle on. Basically brake before the corner then keep your foot on the gas a bit lift as you enter and when the rear starts to step out give it a bit more gas but not so much as to get wheel spin. When done right you get just a slight drift from the rear and allows the corner to be taken faster. I was doing this in the XBow with a good bit of success on Bathhurst tonight, quite a bit of fun but you will spin from time to time until you get a good feel for it.
Great point! This is how I race spec Miata's in real life and this was not even possible or remotely accurate in GT 5.

Minus the induced wheel spin, the trick to "rear end steering" is weight transfer by applying throttle enough to bite more on the rear end and holding neutral through the turn, progressively applying more of the radius of the turn decreases.

Rear wheel steering is generally better at turn in than mid corner as it sets you up on a more aggressive slip angle that you need in a momentum car.

I learned this from racing motorcycles many years ago.

This dynamic is going to be hard for many to adjust to who are used to gt5. Add more hp to the car and it gets much trickier to master.I recommend practicing with the slower cars as you can induce it, whereas with the faster cars it can be something you need to handle.
 
This. It is not broken, you need to have finesse to drive it.

Amar, you are a very respected member, and I personally have been following your inputs since GT5. So, not bashing here or anything, but haven´t you really noticed anything odd with the weight transfer on GT6?

I just can´t help but think that the same problem that cause the rear tires to lift from the ground on hard braking is the one causing this odd behavior of MR cars. You can feel on the wheel the moment the tire loose contact with the ground, and while that´s quite amazing from PD, something just doesn´t feel right. There´s something going on here.

What kind of car or driving style have you tried? I insist, you´ve done an AMAZING contribution to the community. Please extend your vision a little more because I think it´s quite relevant to us.
 
its just me or the Audi R8 its completely broken? it drives like a viper without traction control. Even the most gentle turn will make it spin :\

PD: Im talking about the R8 5.2 FSI Quattro '09
I tried this car [or at least I think it's virtually the same, Audi R8 FSI quattro Chrome Line, pp536] and it drove beautifully. Had everything stock, took off TC and SRF, original tires too.

This was my first spin in this car, took it to Apricot and I think this where the new physics really stands out because the horrid understeer and clumsy 4 wheel drift followed by snap back from GT5 is gone. Can't imagine how awesome it will be with better tires.
This was such a joy that I did 4 laps when I was only planning on doing 1 at most.
 
Driving a car in real life vs. driving in GT will be very different. You will ALWAYS overdrive in a videogame because there are no consequences for your actions. Also, the Stability control/Traction Control systems in modern cars is incredible. They do much of the work for you. Even cars like the C7 vette perform better when using the computer to assist the driver.

The pagani or R8 for instance are 99% of the time NOT DRIVEN completely RAW, because most people don't want to test their driving capabilities as well as crashing a multi-100k car.

Haven't you ever seen a video of some guy tapping the gas just slightly too hard in a 90's Supercar? they crash or spin it instantly.

You pretty much said it all. You will ALWAYS overdrive in GT. No matter how realistically you try to behave, you'll naturally push yourself further.

There are too many variables to be considered here. I know the R8 drives like a dream in real life and so far that's how it handles in GT 6 most of the time. When you consider different track surfaces, different tires, etc, that may chance a lot.
 
I saw on a TV program a while back they had a R8 on a track, and did some testing with various drivers, then turned most the aids off (they had to get a special info from audi to turn some of it off) after that asked the previous people to re-test it, they all span the car, some could not even get it off the line.
So IRL the car uses a lot of aids to drive like it does, as do a lot of modern cars with lots of HP.
most if the 90's Supercars had 50% they power they do now, and was know to be widow makers.
 
DBM
I saw on a TV program a while back they had a R8 on a track, and did some testing with various drivers, then turned most the aids off (they had to get a special info from audi to turn some of it off) after that asked the previous people to re-test it, they all span the car, some could not even get it off the line.
So IRL the car uses a lot of aids to drive like it does, as do a lot of modern cars with lots of HP.
most if the 90's Supercars had 50% they power they do now, and was know to be widow makers.

I agree, even my 350Z will try to kill me with esp off on a rainy day, and that's just 320 horsepower.
 
I just bought a R8 5.2 and went to Nurburgring. I have no idea why OP is having difficulty with this car -- it is as easy to drive as an AWD car can ever be. I can't lose the tail even if I try to. And yes all driving aids were off (except ABS 1).
 
The Audi R8 just needs some ballast added up front if you're having issues with stability.

For the LMS model, it doesn't have to be a perfect 50:50, as I made mine 48:52 with 74 KGs added up front to make it behave more. But if you want complete obedience then 135 KGs is your number. But just know that you'll be adding braking distance and some understeer.
 
I just bought a R8 5.2 and went to Nurburgring. I have no idea why OP is having difficulty with this car -- it is as easy to drive as an AWD car can ever be. I can't lose the tail even if I try to. And yes all driving aids were off (except ABS 1).
That's because mine has a few upgrades to make it like 650 or 680 PP (I dont remember) but i didn't touch the settings yet.
 
In other words, you expect to drive a 1100+ hp car without aids or a tune and not spin?
Whaaat? no way. It only has a few upgrades. It doesn't have 1100+ hp. I dont have the money yet to put all the upgrades in it.
 
Whaaat? no way. It only has a few upgrades. It doesn't have 1100+ hp. I dont have the money yet to put all the upgrades in it.

I'm pretty sure something like a street car with 650-680 pp would near those levels of horsepower.
 
Unless you've actually driven an R8 in real life I doubt you can really say it's "broken".

It may handle differently to what you experienced in GT5.

Let me know when you've driven a real one... Your statement may then carry some credibility.

I own a V8 R8 and have driven the V10 multiple times. THE V10 IN GT6 IS BROKEN (drives nothing like the real thing, never mind the sound)
 
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