MT vs AT - how much faster?

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I do exactly the same thing.
But definitely MT allows you to be more " flexible " and faster at TT lap times .
Am such an old dog that am playing the same combination from gt1 šŸ˜‚ ( buttons for everything ).
In gt3 i got my first wheel ( Logitech ) and i was faster without a doubt even on AT gears.

Perhaps i must switch to triggers for brake and throttle but then MT will be impossible for me.
I use right analog for acceleration and brake, and triggers for shifting. Found it hurt my thumb less and gave me more control.
 
I don't know how anyone plays this game with an AT. The additional braking you get from using a MT is awesome. The extra rotation you can get on tight turns when dropping down a gear is unquestionable. The ability to stay in the engine's powerband with at MT is a game over scenario when compared to AT. Try driving the DP-100 tuned for the Tokyo WTC600 race. If you drove an AT with that car, you would probably be a minute slower in your overall race time vs the manual transmission.
This was what finally made me switch to MT. Too many people were saying this car could win Tokyo WTC600 easily and I still couldn't. But as soon as I forced myself to try it with MT I finally got 1st in that race. Only took me about 2 days of staying dedicated to get used to it and I see zero reason to go back other than to make a tutorial video for beginners and testing purposes.

Just want to add to this that if you are using a controller, I highly suggest the motion steering. The only negative to using it is you can turn the controller too far and it will reset the steering to the center position without you realizing it. If you drive in cockpit view you will easily see this. But you can adjust the feedback settings and get the range and speed of motion to your liking. If you happen to play in VR and do not have a wheel, this recommendation is even more of a must-try.
 
Manual is an h-pattern and 3 pedals using the manual trans in the parts dealer. The two pedal with paddle shift approach using the racing trans in the parts dealer is a semi-automatic. This is likely what is meant by manual in this thread. It's technically a semi-automatic, and faster than an h-pattern and 3 pedals using the manual trans in the parts dealer, and most likely faster than full automatic.

IRL the automatics are sometimes even faster than the semi-automatic. See your race car driver reviews for Porsche GT3 at Road Atlanta or Laguna Seca, they leave the PDK in auto.

IMO, if you go for the fastest method, then you should just let Sopy play the game and go do something else. IRL let the NIO EP9 drive your race car.

Or, get a Fanatec h-pattern and 3 pedals using the manual trans in the parts dealer. Set the gear ratios so you top out on straight in 6th and then you can enjoy the game versus worry about going faster.
 
Just want to add to this that if you are using a controller, I highly suggest the motion steering. The only negative to using it is you can turn the controller too far and it will reset the steering to the center position without you realizing it. If you drive in cockpit view you will easily see this. But you can adjust the feedback settings and get the range and speed of motion to your liking. If you happen to play in VR and do not have a wheel, this recommendation is even more of a must-try.
Hey, I noticed you joined recently, are you familiar with MT, I'm trying to find a good configuration for my controller so I can shift my gears up/down quick while braking and accelerating through corners.
 
Hey, I noticed you joined recently, are you familiar with MT, I'm trying to find a good configuration for my controller so I can shift my gears up/down quick while braking and accelerating through corners.
So I have my button configuration setup like pictured here. Because I'm using the motion of the controller for steering. Thumbs are available for button presses. Shifting up and down with thumb press. I think you can get a much more precise steering from the motion steering. Plus the advantage of it freeing up your thumbs.

Then when you pause after starting a race you have additional controller and assist settings. Under controller settings I have
Controller Steering Sensitivity 2
Trigger Effect Accelerator and Brake set to strong
Force Feedback Max Torque 8
Force Feedback Sensitivity 3


Under assist settings I have it set to manual transmission
Custom preset
Traction Control 1
ABS Weak
Auto drive Off
Active Stability Management Off
Countersteering Assistance Off
 

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Don't you have traction control for that?
TCS is not the same as shifting manually.
Manually shifting allows you to save fuel and conserve tyre.
TCS, depending on the setting may either be too low and still allow occasional slipping, or too high and cutting power at times where you definitly dont want it to happen. In certian situations though I guess it still can be helpful and has its uses.
But you shouldnt solely rely on TCS when you still could improve your game by learning to manually switch gears (and then still use TCS in the rare case you feel you need it).
 
Manual is an h-pattern and 3 pedals using the manual trans in the parts dealer. The two pedal with paddle shift approach using the racing trans in the parts dealer is a semi-automatic. This is likely what is meant by manual in this thread. It's technically a semi-automatic, and faster than an h-pattern and 3 pedals using the manual trans in the parts dealer, and most likely faster than full automatic.

IRL the automatics are sometimes even faster than the semi-automatic. See your race car driver reviews for Porsche GT3 at Road Atlanta or Laguna Seca, they leave the PDK in auto.

IMO, if you go for the fastest method, then you should just let Sopy play the game and go do something else. IRL let the NIO EP9 drive your race car.

Or, get a Fanatec h-pattern and 3 pedals using the manual trans in the parts dealer. Set the gear ratios so you top out on straight in 6th and then you can enjoy the game versus worry about going faster.
Which game are you talking about? Parts Dealer? Manual Trans?

In GT7 we have a Tuning Shop, and the available transmissions don't mention "Manual" or "Auto" because all transmissions can be used either way, depending on the setting in the gameplay menu.

I understand H-shifters have been disabled in GT7 (with one or two exception cars I think, drift maybe), and the clutch also.

So yeah, this thread is all about using a button (on controller) or paddels (on wheel) to change gears manually, in GT7.
 
Which game are you talking about? Parts Dealer? Manual Trans?

In GT7 we have a Tuning Shop, and the available transmissions don't mention "Manual" or "Auto" because all transmissions can be used either way, depending on the setting in the gameplay menu.

I understand H-shifters have been disabled in GT7 (with one or two exception cars I think, drift maybe), and the clutch also.

So yeah, this thread is all about using a button (on controller) or paddels (on wheel) to change gears manually, in GT7.
Yeah, that sure was a post that was hard to read.

Anyway, I just want to say to the controller users: Donā€™t forget you can use L1 and R1 for MT. This beautifully mirrors what you would be doing on a wheel, so as I am about to get a wheel, this is what I use.
 
It all depends on the situation really. AT limits your fuel strategy but MT can leave you stuck in a gear while you wrestle with the wheel or controller.
The American muscle cars almost require a manual due to their torque curves.
 
How many of you wheel users use MT as opposed to the controller users? I'm curiois as to know the percentage of people that do. Let me know sometime for whoever reads this post.
 
I use MT on the T150.

The paddle shifters are just right there and it feels weird not to use them.
 
Thank you!
the answer is the same for all cars, mathematically speaking you want to shift at that point which is the end (opposite site) of the curve that covers most of the blue area.
In pictures;
imagine b was your shifting point and a is the rpm drop, you want the red line to cut the highest amount of the blue curve which means staying around the peak for the longest period of time, which is why this would be what you would try to do
1721369643109.png


and this one woule be bad
1721369823782.png


If you like reading and calculating into detail:
Simply use the car as an example to reverse figure-it-out ;)
 
Yes, go by what @Meythia said there. I'm not an expert on that car lingo stuff. I'm starting to get the hang of the MT some, the tricky part is choosing the right gear for a certain part of the track. One wrong move and it's over, meaning that time is lost.
 
I use manual on both wheel and controller. It gives you a considerable advantage over auto and I struggle to use auto as a result.

(It never shifts down or up when you need it to)

I see one person keeps talking about using motion controll, thatā€™s commendable and Iā€™m glad you found what works for youā€¦. But for me, I found motion controlls to be pretty horrific in nearly all games for it.

I prefer to use a analogue sticks for accelerate and brake on controller, then I use r1 for gear up, l1 for gear down.

Some games are really annoying and donā€™t let you change accelerate to the sticks and they force you to use the R2/ L2, I still make gear up and down on the R1 / L1.

Using X and O for gears just feels very un natural
 
Lol, well great minds think alike. There should be some MT classes for our lower skilled drivers to teach them the tricks necessary to get faster laps like the professionals do. That's my opinion on it.
 
Okay, here is a tricky one:
View attachment 1373703
Some extra things to consider...
If the event has fuel usage, short shifting a car with a flat power curve (like this one) would lose minimal lap time and save lots of fuel = less time in the pits.

For high powered cars, in some places on the track if you change gears at a particular moment/location the tyres will spin and you may lose stability or time (or both) so it's often useful to shift early, or late, in those situations.

If it's all flat & straight like SSRX then the mathematical optimum mentioned above is correct
 
About 5k is what I would say.

That's a lot of torque for not a huge amount of power so guessing it's turbo charged?
Alfa 4c with low rpm turbo.
I used to drive it with shifting at ~6500rpm which is the 2nd peak and throws you right back at the 1st peak in the higher gears and slighty further back in the lowers (because of ratio selected)
1721380477893.png

Some extra things to consider...
If the event has fuel usage, short shifting a car with a flat power curve (like this one) would lose minimal lap time and save lots of fuel = less time in the pits.
Makes this car reasonably good in the 1h missions where it can be used, and I like the sound and handling.

+ Also always something to keep in mind is gear vs corner, but this makes things overly complicated to explain, but is easier to feel once one got the hang of MT.

If it's all flat & straight like SSRX then the mathematical optimum mentioned above is correct
That one is tricky again, because
if you change gears at a particular moment/location the tyres will spin and you may lose stability or time (or both)
With the SSRX 720pp event, you have insane ampunts of power, and bringing that into acceleration requires testing the limits of traction. But this is really one exception to the game, as it doesnt include any meaningful drag-racing mode.


edit: Lancia Stratos (all tuning applied) AT / MT
red = AT
yellow = MT
1721389412820.png


1721389707543.png

This is a car that is pretty well suited to AT, making MT faster over the distance of 5kilometers straightline by only 0.24s , but most of this difference stems from using gear 1-2-3 for just a bit longer -> so it will occure on the sprint after every corner.

Other cars will produce different delta depending on when AT will shift compared to the power curve.
 
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Lol, well great minds think alike. There should be some MT classes for our lower skilled drivers to teach them the tricks necessary to get faster laps like the professionals do. That's my opinion on it.

Are you still using the digital pad and buttons for steering, throttle and brake and the triggers for gears Chris because if you are I would suggest one "trick" might be to switch to analog controls (meaning the analog stick and triggers) for steering, throttle, and brake and the digital buttons for gear shifting. That might make the process a little easier. But in the end, the real "trick" is PRACTICE.
 
Well, looks like it's time for me to get the MT back out again. And this time, I'm dead serious! I'll have to watch the Kie's, MistahMCA, Tidgney's and SuperGT's guides more often to study every aspect of it.
 
Well, looks like it's time for me to get the MT back out again. And this time, I'm dead serious! I'll have to watch the Kie's, MistahMCA, Tidgney's and SuperGT's guides more often to study every aspect of it.
Youā€™ve said this exact thing many times already. Make a choice and stick with it, the changing back and forth is not helping. Manual recommended.
 
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