- 5,198
- UK
- marunda/GTP_FordMKIVJ5
My New 1996 Mx-5 Miata - 2017 Dixie Championship Tour
- Thread starter carracerptp
- 269 comments
- 23,944 views
- 4,605
- United States
- carracerptp
I don't think I've ever heard anybody say that before.
Well I need to replace the seal and it would have been a pain to try and pull the cams cogs off and not move anything. And after watching this video:
I found it was very easy to line up again, and this video:
Made putting on the belt so simple. Got the timing right the first time thanks to the very easy to line up marks.
- 5,198
- UK
- marunda/GTP_FordMKIVJ5
Ah, didn't realise that MX-5s had keyways on the cams/pulleys. That makes it a whole lot easier.
CodeRedR51
Premium
- 55,324
- United States
But it will open your beer too! Priceless!
- 4,605
- United States
- carracerptp
But it will open your beer too! Priceless!
Still over priced. Now the seal installer tool(s), that is priceless. If only they made seal pullers.
Thanks.
They are worth it, fun to drive and relatively cheap to buy and own. Just find one with minimal rust and you're set 👍
- 986
- Bergen (GMT +2)
- LAMBOKID12
The only problem with the car I think, will be the interior space. I'm 6,2 feet tall, and I fear that I won't be able to sit in an MX-5 with the roof up, because of my height.
But I'm really hoping that I'll fit in one!
Are these cars easy to work on as well? I don't have a lot experience when it comes to working on cars. I know a lot of technical stuff, but when it comes to practical work on cars, I'm not the best…
- 4,763
- Houston, TX
- 4,605
- United States
- carracerptp
I'm 6'1 and have plenty of headroom because my height is in my legs, now legroom on the other hand is really bad.
I can't think how this car could be much easier to work on. Very easy. It as has a few "interesting" challenges like the O2 sensor placement, but all can be overcome with only basic hand tools.
IMHO what really makes this car one of the easiest cars to work is not just the car but help is so easy to get if you get stuck. Ask a question here, miata.net, local miata forum etc. Hundreds of tutorials on everything from replacing the air filter to mounting new shocks.
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- 986
- Bergen (GMT +2)
- LAMBOKID12
Thanks for the tips, and advices. I have most of my haight in my legs as well, so that might be a challenge for me as well. I am on the heavy side as well (198 pounds) but I don't think the weight will be a problem.
I'm going to start as an apprentice as a car mechanic a year on fron now, so sadly I can't afford a car until then. But I'll check out the forums you suggested when I have the time for it.
Thanks a lot!
- 4,605
- United States
- carracerptp
OK, next autocross is coming up and I want to be able to re watch my runs so I can learn from my mistakes. I don't care about audio and I don't care about low light. So I'm looking for a cheap action cam.
Right now I'm looking at this GoPro copy-cat, the SJ4000.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ISUNBPU/?tag=gtplanet-20
Anyone have any experience with this cam?
Right now I'm looking at this GoPro copy-cat, the SJ4000.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ISUNBPU/?tag=gtplanet-20
Anyone have any experience with this cam?
CodeRedR51
Premium
- 55,324
- United States
GoPro just came out with their 4th version, what are the originals going for now? I would assume fairly cheap. Maybe find a used one in good shape on craigslist?
- 4,605
- United States
- carracerptp
Thanks I'll try that.
CodeRedR51
Premium
- 55,324
- United States
They are still selling new GoPro Hero's for $160.
- 4,605
- United States
- carracerptp
CodeRedR51
Premium
- 55,324
- United States
Maybe that's what I was talking about, but the website I saw the price on may have been wrong. Even better then.
- 4,605
- United States
- carracerptp
Ready for my next autocross tomorrow. I gave myself some notes, I don't know why but I seemed to forget the basics last time. My goal is to be smooth and controlled first and foremost.
Hope I don't end up in the first run group. I feel watching cars run before hand is a big advantage. After last time I'll take anything.
Car setup is a little different, I don't have a full tank of gas this time( should save some weight ) and I'm running 32 PSI up front and 33 PSI out back. So far that feels like the sweet spot for grip.
- 4,605
- United States
- carracerptp
That was FUN!!!!
So much better than last time. Only one cone hit during the official runs. Unfortunately, still no pictures. Next time there should be pictures.
My tires are done for. I was told that they wouldn't pass tech inspection again, but man were they fun. It must have been an off day last time. This time I didn't seem to have any trouble finding where my fenders were and my tires max grip. The track was also much simpler, so that helped; longer, but simpler.
My time also, in my opinion, took an improvement. Sure there's only three other cars in my class, but relative to other cars, my car was, in my honest opinion, doing well considering its tires. The fact it was competitive at all means I couldn't have done completely terribly.
Also, got one of those rare humidity-free days, so general comfort levels were up. Nothing like slamming on the brakes at 60mph going into a hairpin with a cool breeze in your face.
I actually ran one time that would have been very competitive (1st or within 0.1 ), but that was the one time I decided to clip a cone in a relatively amateurish mistake. I can guarantee that cone did not affect my time, so if you can figure out what come I must have hit, you can figure out how much I was smacking my forehead. I actually got distracted looking at the time board and saw my time go up and realized I just shaved a second off my time.
Either way, thanks to not having many cars in my class, I got second. Should have had first, but I'm an idiot. Oh well. At least it was nice to put the last event before this behind me. I still can't figure out why I was so darn bad, relative to my first time out.
So much better than last time. Only one cone hit during the official runs. Unfortunately, still no pictures. Next time there should be pictures.
My tires are done for. I was told that they wouldn't pass tech inspection again, but man were they fun. It must have been an off day last time. This time I didn't seem to have any trouble finding where my fenders were and my tires max grip. The track was also much simpler, so that helped; longer, but simpler.
My time also, in my opinion, took an improvement. Sure there's only three other cars in my class, but relative to other cars, my car was, in my honest opinion, doing well considering its tires. The fact it was competitive at all means I couldn't have done completely terribly.
Also, got one of those rare humidity-free days, so general comfort levels were up. Nothing like slamming on the brakes at 60mph going into a hairpin with a cool breeze in your face.
I actually ran one time that would have been very competitive (1st or within 0.1 ), but that was the one time I decided to clip a cone in a relatively amateurish mistake. I can guarantee that cone did not affect my time, so if you can figure out what come I must have hit, you can figure out how much I was smacking my forehead. I actually got distracted looking at the time board and saw my time go up and realized I just shaved a second off my time.
Either way, thanks to not having many cars in my class, I got second. Should have had first, but I'm an idiot. Oh well. At least it was nice to put the last event before this behind me. I still can't figure out why I was so darn bad, relative to my first time out.
- 4,605
- United States
- carracerptp
Old Tires:
To believe I did 3 autocrosses on these tires after this picture was taken ( the rubber was as hard as the cement ).
NEW TIRES!:
Sumitomo HTR A/S P01 195/60/14
Should be interesting to see how these do at the next autocross. They are sorta a "temp" tire, untill I can save a bit more for 15in rims and sticky summer tires.
To believe I did 3 autocrosses on these tires after this picture was taken ( the rubber was as hard as the cement ).
NEW TIRES!:
Sumitomo HTR A/S P01 195/60/14
Should be interesting to see how these do at the next autocross. They are sorta a "temp" tire, untill I can save a bit more for 15in rims and sticky summer tires.
- 2,790
- Vancouver, BC
- liampage123
What rims you going to get?
- 4,605
- United States
- carracerptp
I'm looking for a set of stock 99 miata 15in rims.
- 2,198
- Ocho Rios
- Marcus__Garvey
Just stumbling upon this thread.
Did the car come with the proper factory wheels?
The lightest 15x6 factory Miata wheels are the 1995 M Edition BBSs. The NB 15x6s are going to be easier and cheaper to find and are about a pound heavier. SSR at one time built a 15x6 Comp but good luck finding a set. Before you do any of that, however, you're going to want to decide if you're going to stay in stock(street) category and if you want to move beyond local events in future.
The current tire du jour for the cars is the Toyo R1R in 195/50/15, although that is going to change for next season as the tire is banned again in stock(Street). There is a rumour that Toyo will be releasing an updated 200tw version that is expected to be legal, however it won't be known for sure if that is the case until next April. Another popular option for the car is the Dunlop ZII, which also has a revised Star Spec version expected in the States next year.
From there it really depends on how bad the bug has bit you. If you stay in ES (stock/street class); once you venture into the larger SCCA events people are likely to hassle you about the intake if you are winning. Locally people let a lot more slide. Without the torsen that was standard in the M and R models you're at a disadvantage in ES at the top levels(unless it mysteriously has it, but doesn't appear so from the pics), but in STS the torsen is not allowed. That's another story. The R Package is the best of the breed, but with few made most on the grids are clones(and incomplete).
Does the car have ABS? It was a separate option in 96 if I am recalling correctly.
If you just want to have fun in the cheapest way possible...throw a set of factory 15x6s with a current competitive tire, a set of koni sports(aka yellows, single adjustable shocks) with new bumpstops, and an AWR front sway bar with brackets. Get the car properly aligned, and have fun. That's about it. If you want to compete more seriously on a larger scale; that's another conversation.
The cool thing about these cars is they have been all sorted by now, and all the information is easily accessible with a large knowledge base and support for them.
If you have any questions/concerns, feel free to drop me a message.
Did the car come with the proper factory wheels?
The lightest 15x6 factory Miata wheels are the 1995 M Edition BBSs. The NB 15x6s are going to be easier and cheaper to find and are about a pound heavier. SSR at one time built a 15x6 Comp but good luck finding a set. Before you do any of that, however, you're going to want to decide if you're going to stay in stock(street) category and if you want to move beyond local events in future.
The current tire du jour for the cars is the Toyo R1R in 195/50/15, although that is going to change for next season as the tire is banned again in stock(Street). There is a rumour that Toyo will be releasing an updated 200tw version that is expected to be legal, however it won't be known for sure if that is the case until next April. Another popular option for the car is the Dunlop ZII, which also has a revised Star Spec version expected in the States next year.
From there it really depends on how bad the bug has bit you. If you stay in ES (stock/street class); once you venture into the larger SCCA events people are likely to hassle you about the intake if you are winning. Locally people let a lot more slide. Without the torsen that was standard in the M and R models you're at a disadvantage in ES at the top levels(unless it mysteriously has it, but doesn't appear so from the pics), but in STS the torsen is not allowed. That's another story. The R Package is the best of the breed, but with few made most on the grids are clones(and incomplete).
Does the car have ABS? It was a separate option in 96 if I am recalling correctly.
If you just want to have fun in the cheapest way possible...throw a set of factory 15x6s with a current competitive tire, a set of koni sports(aka yellows, single adjustable shocks) with new bumpstops, and an AWR front sway bar with brackets. Get the car properly aligned, and have fun. That's about it. If you want to compete more seriously on a larger scale; that's another conversation.
The cool thing about these cars is they have been all sorted by now, and all the information is easily accessible with a large knowledge base and support for them.
If you have any questions/concerns, feel free to drop me a message.
- 2,790
- Vancouver, BC
- liampage123
I'd recommend RPF1s, 15x7. Or the advanti racing storm s1's but they don't come in 7 inch. Both would be great since your doing a lot of auto x.
- 4,605
- United States
- carracerptp
The car came with the daisies ( I have no clue what happened to the original 96 rims or the orginal air intake, I asked the previous owner about the latter ). I know a guy that seems to have everything so I figure I will go to him for an OEM intake one day. No ABS.
I have also noticed the 15in MB wheels are easier to find in my price point.
Right now I'm in it for learning how to drive. I think I know what I'm doing wrong and I fixed a lot my last time out but I still have a ways to go before I start doing SCCA stuff ( and adding stuff like koni's). I have every intention of one day competing at that level.
The Dunlop ZII seems to be a popular choice, I intend to go with them or the new equivalents when I jump up to 15s. Locally they run a lighter rule set so my intake 100% legal. I would still like to get an OEM one thought for later and maybe a little more power as the air will be cooler.
I really have been hooked into autocross but I look at it a little different than some. I have no intention of modifying the car to compete in a different class ( even if money was no object ). I really like "stock" cars.
Also, I took the car for a drive with my sister, got some nice pictures of the car I think.
- 2,198
- Ocho Rios
- Marcus__Garvey
Just beware either of those choices will knock the car out of stock and into STS.
- 4,605
- United States
- carracerptp
Funny, I almost got a set for $650 with tires (RPF1 ), just couldn't justify eating up my car / autocross budget. Unfortunately they are in the boat so if I want to keep doing 2 autocrosses a month and cover gas, repairs ( so far I have only and an interior panel loosen up ), and entry fee I need to be careful. Also I actually like the stock "look" better. Just at that price it was really tempting.
I didn't know that, guess I can feel better.
- 2,198
- Ocho Rios
- Marcus__Garvey
I also run primarily in stock class as I prefer the generally larger fields and ease of operation. I hop into all sorts of cars but my own cars I have always run in 'stock' which is now street.
The ZII is a safe option. Get a tire sprayer. They don't like heat. I use this > http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...-Cleaning-Detailing/_/R-BK_8211362_0361091074
When you begin to have problems with the inside front locking up, there are some things you can do to combat that.
I'm going to remember this post 6 months from now haha.
Yep, technically the car is illegal currently(besides the intake, ouside locals) with the 14x5.5s on it now, but I can't imagine being protested for running a narrow wheel. In the past you were limited to stock rim dimensions, with the wheel offset being withing 5mm. They now allow you to run + or - 1 inch in diameter, but the wheel must retain the stock width and the offset must remain within 5mm of stock. Going with NB 15x6s is a good choice on a budget.
There are a number of things that you can do to the car in stock/street class. The rulebook is written such that anything not specifically allowed is prohibited, however the miata is unique in that there are a number of seemingly meaningless allowances that actually affect the car.
Best of luck with the car. Again anything you need let me know, I'd be glad to help you.
- 4,605
- United States
- carracerptp
A guy in an EVO at my local events uses that same sprayer. I asked about it because I was curious what he was doing
When I was looking for tires / rims I quickly realized I had no idea all the many things to consider with tires.My car was doing that with the old tires if I stepped over the threshold under braking VERY quickly but not like GT5 ABS OFF. Not near as much with the new tires but still the drivers side front locks first, I was told it was typical for miatas. I did a quick test on a empty road in the middle of nowhere.
- 2,198
- Ocho Rios
- Marcus__Garvey
A guy in an EVO at my local events uses that same sprayer. I asked about it because I was curious what he was doing
Different tires tend to require different care and feeding depending on the conditions. Most of the current street tires don't like being much above 160 degrees. An Evo is going to put a lot of heat into the fronts in a hurry which will require spraying most of the time with most tires. Once the tires are over 100 degrees(typically 1st run) I'll be fighting to keep them cool, but with a heavier car. You don't really need to bother with worrying about any of that at this point, though. Just keep getting seat time.
As I read in the thread the club runs a school. You know I instruct; and I highly recommend it, if for nothing other than getting a bunch of seat time for the money. Same with a test and tune, if it comes up. Great opportunity to get more seat time, and ride along with others and swap cars, etc. I know you already know how to spot lines and the rest of it, but even I take other folks along for feedback(instruction) to keep fresh and for a different prespective. Otherwise even experienced drivers can become complacent.
That is likely going to be the most frustrating thing about the car. It only gets worse the faster you go, with a big front bar, and the lighter the wheels and tires, the stiffer the front shocks, etc. The most significant times it will affect you is in the hard shutdowns(hopefully you don't encounter many), the quick grab and go transitional elements like 3 cone slolams(which aren't actually slolams), and decreasing radius turns. The deeper and longer you have to drag the brakes the worse it gets as the outside front loads up, and the inside unloads further. Like anything, if you can get your braking done in a straight line then do so. You'll find yourself making little straights here and there to accomodate as necessary. That brings me back to seat time. The best improvement, haha.
- 4,605
- United States
- carracerptp
Last week when I did my autocross runs, my tires felt the best after the 5th run on the 8th I was going fine the going into the high speed section the rear just turned to ice, then the fronts ( ~40-45 MPH and about a full turn of opposite lock is fun
). Felt like I lost 40%+ of the grip when I hit the next turn. I figured I overheated the tires. Just parked it after that.Another local club runs a test and tune. I just found out about them and will very likely be doing them ( cheap and MANY runs ).
The reason I'm not doing the schools is:
Cost - Sure I would get more a better seat time / dollar ratio but I would have to miss a few events to offset the cost. I really like going to the events.
How I learn - I learn best by watching. I watched 2 groups before my runs at the last event. That was huge and 90% of the reason I did better. An instructor could teach me faster but I don't feel I can't learn by watching. It might take me longer to learn by watching but I'll have a lot of fun. I'm not in a HUGE rush to get fast.
I did this in GT5-GT6, watch replays of many fast drivers like yourself, and others to try and track down how you guys beat me. I found one guy had excellent mid-corner throttle control, another was braking later and taking advantage of some corner camber that was off the "expected" racing line, etc. Same with some of the "really" good guy that run locally. They may not all be in my class but it's very easy to see how they are pulling time on a competitor with a car that should be about the same.
I "sorta" Know What I'm Doing ( wrong ) - ( warning silly kid that thinks games count for something is about to continue - those that know better can shake their head and skip this )
I can point out at least 10 things on my runs that I'm doing very wrong, I'm getting a camera so I'm sure when I watch the replays I'll find many more. I know GT5-6, iRacing, Assetto Corsa aren't 1 to 1 proof I understand car dynamic but I have raced in the top level ( and against top players ) in all of them.
I think I now "get" what makes "speed". I get the fact I can't push my tires past what they physically can do ( friction circle, etc ). I understand why it's better to "sacrifice" a line in one corner to get a better exit on to a longer straight in the next. Looking for sandy spots, checking for corner camber thanks to parking lot drainage ( not a big deal at an runway ), optimizing my starting spot, etc.
I want to smack my forehead when I mess up but I know how to fix it. The way I see it an instructor can help remind me of all the things I goofing on and provide tricks to help me stop so I learn faster but I feel given enough time I'll just stop making the mistakes! Like I did when I was learning GT5.
I don't feel I'm fit the category that will make up most of the school. I'm not lost ( though 3ish weeks ago I would have thought so ), I'm not scratching my head thinking "how can they go fast?" "Why is my car not turning" "How can I get more exit speed" I know why they are faster, either better lines or better control. It seems autocross times are really sensitive to car placement, the difference between being on the line and off the line is so much smaller than what I see in the games on "tracks" or in real like on "tracks". The only way I can get better at that is practice.
It seems like such and odd characteristic for a car with such balance handling to have.
