Perfect Pedal Mod: A Review...

That's pretty much what the adjustment kit is. $20 or $35 or however much seems steep for what is effectively just a syringe full of oil. Maybe using the same oil as you have in your RC cars would work in the same way as the kit at a much more reasonable cost. But personally I wouldn't want to risk messing with the pedal when I'm already happy with the feel.
 
I got an e-mail from AP Electrix guy 2 weeks ago about if I am still interested, and I paid him then and It got here yesterday. Installed it and tried it out last night and it was very interesting. It has a lot to do with how you calibrate the load cell as that will determine the kind of fidelity you can get and where "max braking" happens. It'll be tricky I think in PS3 to get it to be consistent. I also had to change my pedal shimming and spacing as now the brake is basically static and changes my heel-toe motion a bit. My G25 pedal was modded with a piece of spacer in the spring cylinder before to be much stiffer than stock, which worked well but I just want to get away with the iffy pot setup in the G25...

Was able to match my pre-loadcell setup laptime wise in certain car....which is promising...
 
I got an email from APelectrix that my order is ready. I installed a gum - eraser inside the brake pedal and beside the more realistic feeling, the brakes are still locking up in GT5. I haven't tried it with pc games yet.

The gum doesn't prevent the brakes from locking up, even when pushing the brake pedal for maximum 50% (the red bar on the HUD of GT5 lits up only slightly and still the brakes lock up immediately).

So I'm wondering if the Perfect Pedal or the APelectrix is as good as everybody says it is. The signal generated by the PP or the APeletrix is converted to a signal similar as the potmeter generates. Otherwise the G27 can't read this signal, hence the PCB in the PP and the APelectrix. I wonder if the signal is converted to a similar signal coming from the potmeter, if it's worth the money? The signal read ingame, coming from the potmeter or the PP must be the same.
 
You're right about the signal. It'd have to be the same otherwise the PS3 wouldn't be able to recognise it. What is different though is how that signal is created.

With the Perfect Pedal, you have to press a lot harder to get 100% braking power than you would with the standard pedal. It's also more about the speed in which you hit the pedal too. It seems that I can quickly stab it quite hard and get 100% braking, but using the same pressure but slower doesn't seem to get past, say, 70%.

I'm not sure if the AP mod works in the same way as this.

As for whether it's worth the money, that all depends on your needs and financial situation I guess. I wouldn't be without it now, and it's definatly improved my experience with the G27 and also my lap times a considerable amount.

EDIT: If I've read your post correctly, it seems like you're struggling with the brakes locking up too soon for your liking. Is this correct? If so, maybe you would benefit from a Perfect Pedal. It's a lot harder to reach 100% braking than with the standard Pot. I've started using ABS off now I have the new pedal, and whilst it's took some getting used to, I'm not having as many lock ups as when I tried ABS off with the standard pedal.
 
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Yeah stalker is right its all in how you apply pressure to the pedal if it will lock up. If i slowly bring the pressure up on the pedal its nearly impossible to lock them up, but if i jam on them they will lock up right now. Not sure exactly how it works but its fantastic. As far as being worth it i think if you ask anyone whos got one they will say yes. I think anyone considering getting csp for there G27 should really look at this as a better option. No regrets here.
 
You're right about the signal. It'd have to be the same otherwise the PS3 wouldn't be able to recognise it. What is different though is how that signal is created.

With the Perfect Pedal, you have to press a lot harder to get 100% braking power than you would with the standard pedal. It's also more about the speed in which you hit the pedal too. It seems that I can quickly stab it quite hard and get 100% braking, but using the same pressure but slower doesn't seem to get past, say, 70%.

I'm not sure if the AP mod works in the same way as this.

As for whether it's worth the money, that all depends on your needs and financial situation I guess. I wouldn't be without it now, and it's definatly improved my experience with the G27 and also my lap times a considerable amount.

EDIT: If I've read your post correctly, it seems like you're struggling with the brakes locking up too soon for your liking. Is this correct? If so, maybe you would benefit from a Perfect Pedal. It's a lot harder to reach 100% braking than with the standard Pot. I've started using ABS off now I have the new pedal, and whilst it's took some getting used to, I'm not having as many lock ups as when I tried ABS off with the standard pedal.
Yeah stalker is right its all in how you apply pressure to the pedal if it will lock up. If i slowly bring the pressure up on the pedal its nearly impossible to lock them up, but if i jam on them they will lock up right now. Not sure exactly how it works but its fantastic. As far as being worth it i think if you ask anyone whos got one they will say yes. I think anyone considering getting csp for there G27 should really look at this as a better option. No regrets here.
Yes.
I always use ABS ingame (set to 1 in GT5). It is almost impossible to not lock up when using ABS set to 0 and use a lot of braking pressure in the tuning part of the car. When I set the braking pressure to nearly 0, ingame, I can drive without locking up the brakes but, even with slicks, the car won't stop as effectively as with a higher braking pressure (ingame).

I think that the APelectrix works similar. The perfect pedal uses a pressure sensor which is translated to simulate the potmeter's signal. The APelectrix uses a force sensor. In case of the perfect pedal, you have to use force to get a higher pressure. This pressure is coverted into an electrical signal. The force sensor in the APelectrix already uses an electrical signal. The resistance in the force sensor increases or decreases when you apply more or less force. The pressure in the perfect pedal increases/decreases when more/less pressure is generated. In the end, the electrical signal from both devices must be the same because the G27 has to be able to read it.
So I think that the APelectrix is similar than the Perfect Pedal. Except for the more realistic feeling you get with the Perfect Pedal. It is afterall hydraulic and the APelectrix is just a simple piece of rubber that is compressed to simulate an hydraulic feeling.

It's not only the fact that the Perfect Pedal is expensive in relation to my monthly income. It is also a problem when I want to sell the G27. Not everybody knows about the Perfect Pedal. And when I want to sell the G27, I have to ask a higher price than other people that are selling their G27, which will result in not being able to sell the G27 or sell it without the Perfect Pedal. In that case I will have to sell the Perfect Pedal seperately.
That's how I always think about financial purchases that I don't necessarely need. On the other hand, Netkar Pro is almost impossible to play because of the realisme and the lack of ABS (I think) in the vintage car, which is my favourite.

Maybe the APelectrix is a better choice for me as said before by someone else. I'll come to a conclusion, I always do. :)

Before I forget. Now that I tested the brake pedal with the gum thing inside the pedal, the travelof the pedal is limited. I don't mind at all. So, it seems to be correct that you don't need the adjustment kit for the Perfect Pedal.
 
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I will have to agree with some of the comments here, they need to do a T500 version of this, and maybe a gas pedal version too :) but maybe half of the cost LOL
 
I will have to agree with some of the comments here, they need to do a T500 version of this, and maybe a gas pedal version too :) but maybe half of the cost LOL
Hopefully they will. A T500RS hydraulic/ force sensor mod will make this wheel, almost perfect, I think, because I don't have the T500RS.
 
I was prety much at the same place you are now. I think ive seen every video, read every post and seen all the pictures on the internet about brake mods for G27, ap electric, nixim mod 1 and 2, arc mod, even a real brake booster and caliper set up lol. The ISR review of arc mod is what made my mind up. Thats when i noticed all these mods where trying to do one thing "feel" like a real pedal. Thats where the PP hits the mark. I was wanting the "feel" and ive got it. I dont think any of the others can do that (well except the real booster caliper thing). Dont plan on selling my G27 so that wasnt a concern for me but i see your point. I just figured if i got any of the others i wouldnt of been happy. Now im sure i made the right choice. Expensive yes but imo well worth the money. Hope this helped and good luck in your choice.
 
I will have to agree with some of the comments here, they need to do a T500 version of this, and maybe a gas pedal version too :) but maybe half of the cost LOL

Not sure of what there plan is but i noticed in Feb. that the makers of PP filed a patent for a simaliar product but has a adjustment nob for pressure. Could be for other wheels or upgrade for G27 not sure.
 
I was prety much at the same place you are now. I think ive seen every video, read every post and seen all the pictures on the internet about brake mods for G27, ap electric, nixim mod 1 and 2, arc mod, even a real brake booster and caliper set up lol. The ISR review of arc mod is what made my mind up. Thats when i noticed all these mods where trying to do one thing "feel" like a real pedal. Thats where the PP hits the mark. I was wanting the "feel" and ive got it. I dont think any of the others can do that (well except the real booster caliper thing). Dont plan on selling my G27 so that wasnt a concern for me but i see your point. I just figured if i got any of the others i wouldnt of been happy. Now im sure i made the right choice. Expensive yes but imo well worth the money. Hope this helped and good luck in your choice.
Yep, it helps me more than you realise, hehe. Thanks.

I'm also interested in the real feel of a brake pedal mod but not as much as you. I'm more interested in what the mod can do in terms of braking realisme and making it possible to brake without locking up the wheels all the time (and without having to lower the brake pressure ingame all the time to prevent lock ups).

The gum (eraser) simulates a pretty realistic feel. Good enough for me anyway. So I'm convinced that the APelectrix does the job good enough as well and gives the same result (probably) as the perfect pedal. If I want to have that realistic brake feel, I can always make a DIY hydraulic system, as you mentioned.

http://[URL="http://www.varjanta.com/forum/hydraulic-brake-pedal-handmade-t1808.html"LINK
 
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Yeah the more i use it the more i like it. Do any of you with this play shift 2? What do you have brake sensitivity set at? I have had it all over the place but know im back at 50. Playing online i gotta find new lines in the corners because i can enter and exit so much faster. 👍

How did you get on finding a good setting to use with your Perfect Pedal? I've seen Shift 2 for £25 brand new in the shops today and I'm very tempted to get it for that price.
 
I have stuck with 50% seems the best for me. When i first got the pedal and got used to it started up shift quick race went into first corner super hard got slowed made the corner had a big smile on my face. The misses says what are you smiling about I said i think i can smell the brake dust LOL. Shift takes alot of tunning to get the cars to feel right but after that its great.
 
I finally decided not to buy a brake mod. The reason for this is that the signal send to the PCB of the G27 is still the same as from the potmeters. So, in escence, not much differs from the original brake pedal besides the feel and better modulation of the brake pedal. But I can do all these things with the gum (eraser) I've put in the pedal. I just switch on ABS.
A guy I know from the internet told me yesterday that he cannot drive with ABS set to 0 in GT5 with the APelectrix without locking up the wheels. He made it into the top 10 or was it the top 5 of GT academy, so I believe him.

The Perfect Pedal is just too expensive for me and the APelectrix doesn't do what I want it to do.

The APelectrix would cost me $88.95 without customs etc... . Also too much for my poor income.

Well, that's it. Thanks for the help.
 
Have any of you guys with the Perfect pedal directly compared it to a set of CSP's?

I currently have a G25 pedal set with the original Nixim mod and while i like it i do find you can not attack the brakes as you do in an actual car - i still run with ABS off but have to almost cadence brake to brake late. I assume this is where the better brake pedals come good and i have a set of CSP's on order but would really like to hear of comparisons between the two.
 
Hey guys, I'm looking at buying a Perfect Pedal but not sure whether to get the Bodnar cable with it- I play iRacing and the occasional GT5 when friends come around etc.
I think I've heard GT5 won't work with the Bodnar cable?? Anyone know?
 
The Bodnar cable is only for pc if you mean this
You can't make stand alone G25/27 pedals to work with GT5.
 
Well i ordered the tunning kit today to try it out. You know what they say curiosity killed the cat. Just cant help myself I gotta try this thing just to see.
 
I'll be interested to see what you think of it and if it improves your experience. Let's just hope curiosity doesn't kill your perfect pedal!
 
I got the kit yesterday and took maybe 2 mil. of fluid out and I think its much improved. It gives the pedal a bit more travel and just slightly softer. Ive only done a few laps so far but overall very pleased.
 
I finally decided not to buy a brake mod. The reason for this is that the signal send to the PCB of the G27 is still the same as from the potmeters. So, in escence, not much differs from the original brake pedal besides the feel and better modulation of the brake pedal.

Make that "better modulation of the brake pedal 'SIGNAL'"

The above reason is an attempt to rationalize your decision The real, valid and Perfectly Proffered reason is below.

The Perfect Pedal is just too expensive for me ....

The APelectrix would cost me $88.95 without customs etc... . Also too much....

A Yugo and a Ferrari both use the same signal (gasoline) but the result of what they do with it is......different.:) I'm glad the eraser mod has improved your pedals.👍

Scotty
 
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@Kikie: Agreed but, it's the feel of the pedal that makes all the difference.

I can understand your reluctance if you feel the Perfect Pedal is too expensive (and it is expensive, no doubt) but man, once you try one you'll never go back to anything else (and that includes that AP Racing solution) :)
 
fatkrakr
I got the kit yesterday and took maybe 2 mil. of fluid out and I think its much improved. It gives the pedal a bit more travel and just slightly softer. Ive only done a few laps so far but overall very pleased.

Have you got any pics of the kit? If it's just a simple syringe, what is the capacity of it? I have a few various sized syringes lying around so I could maybe make my own version. Does the kit tell you the viscosity of the oil used as well?
 
Have you got any pics of the kit? If it's just a simple syringe, what is the capacity of it? I have a few various sized syringes lying around so I could maybe make my own version. Does the kit tell you the viscosity of the oil used as well?

If you go to PP site thats the whole kit pictured. Its got a large tip for the oil. No instructions but sent an email asking how much fluid was in the pedal and do I ned to worry about air in the pedal and this was there reply. all good questions!! I need and will put together some instructions to go along in the future.


So, your pedal has 17ml right now. It will be full at roughly 25ml, at this setting it will be very high and hard, like a real f1 car. You can also drain to as low as 12ml or so, when it's too low it won't register anymore in windows test or iracing. I recommend you change (either way) in increments of 2ml, then try.


As for air...make sure the fill screw us on top, not inverted. Also, pull the pedal all the way out before replacing fill screw and you'll be fine.


If you have trouble getting the fill needle past the spring and all the way into the hole you can try making the tip mire if an oval with a pliers...if it still won't go in remove the bottom pivot bolt ( the one thru the shaft tip) and rotate the shaft, then the needle tip will drop in.


email if you have more q's or issues! I'll have phone on all holiday weekend!


Aaron Weiss
 
Thanks Fatkrakr. Is it straight forward enough to do? It sounds like you could probably leave the pedal in the base and do it without completely removing it.
 
Mine are inverted but still in the case and had to on mount them but not remove the pedal. Its kinda tricky getting the neddle in but after that no problem. Dont remove alot of fluid though I probably didnt take out 2 ml. thats a small amount. Dont loose the fluid incase you dont like it.
 
Bought one and i love it. got 4 seconds of my time and without any ABS on laguna seca. the problem is the play and its so stiff. No lockup problems though when you get used to it.
 
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