- 1,814
- San Diego CA
- Alex_ONeil
PITS 2-[Project International Touring Series 2]PS4
- Thread starter Alex ONeill
- 5,565 comments
- 223,411 views
- 1,403
- North Carolina
- HazardLvL4
- 3,833
- socal
- SAMHAIN85
- 2,417
- St. Cloud, Florida
- aracefan
Good racin' tonight guys. Tough track, but the car kinda came around. Sorry about jacking up your restart @HazardLvL4, I shouldn't have been tailgating Alex into the first turn... 
- 1,403
- North Carolina
- HazardLvL4
- 1,403
- North Carolina
- HazardLvL4
I thought this was actually pretty good:
- 3,090
- Port of Spain
- davidtsmith333
LOL. That's great stuff Hazard.
- 1,814
- San Diego CA
- Alex_ONeil
Season 15 points:
- 3,090
- Port of Spain
- davidtsmith333
Well I'm at a loss. As you may be aware I disconnected again with just about 4 minutes to go at the end of the 90 mins session (45x2).
To recap I disconnected at first while we were waiting for start of practice/qualifying. Shut down, but this time unplugged the USB expansion hub to which the wheel's base USB was plugged in to the PS4 and plugged it directly to the PS4...wheel base to PS4 USB. Then booted back up and rejoined the session before Qualifying started. Just when I thought it was safe with connection going right through, just about 4 minutes to the end....boop....disconnect (no response from wheel or pedals, buttons etc). Note: The wheel is still powered on though.
What I find is odd is that sometimes the wheel would disconnect at times shortly before or after practice (1-2 laps), while at other times I could go 10+ laps with no disconnection. Prior to race night in testing I thought it may have been the USB expansion hub to which the wheel's USB is connected may have gotten defective so I bought a new one before race night. And that I used to connect initially but while waiting for practice/qualifying I still disconnected. That's when I unplugged it and plugged in the wheelbase USB directly to the PS4 USB. That went fine until just before the last 4 minutes.
The reason why I need to have the USB expansion hub is this. The PS4 only has 2 available USB ports which are to the front. I have an external expansion storage drive (for more storage of course) which must be plugged in to one of the PS4's USB ports. I have that plugged in to the #1 USB port. That then leaves just the one other available PS4 USB port to which the USB expansion hub is plugged in to in order to plug in the wheelbase's USB cable and also the Razer headphone wireless's basestation in order to listen in-game and communicate with other racers.
Sorry for the lengthly read but this is just to give an insight to how everything is connected etc in case anyone has insight or suggestions.
BTW, I'm on vacation from today for the next month and was really hoping to take advantage of some gaming. One thing for sure if I can't get this resolved that may be the end for me for sim racing (eg Pcars 2) as I have no intension of buying another wheel nor do I wish to race with the DS controller with the exception of Wreckfest for PS4 which I intend to purchase when released next month since that may be more forgiving.
Anyone has any advice or suggestions to resolve please chime in.
Oh and one other thing sending back the wheel to Fanatec for diagnosis and whatever is out of the question because it will cost too much for shipping from my location in the Caribbean to and fro.
To recap I disconnected at first while we were waiting for start of practice/qualifying. Shut down, but this time unplugged the USB expansion hub to which the wheel's base USB was plugged in to the PS4 and plugged it directly to the PS4...wheel base to PS4 USB. Then booted back up and rejoined the session before Qualifying started. Just when I thought it was safe with connection going right through, just about 4 minutes to the end....boop....disconnect (no response from wheel or pedals, buttons etc). Note: The wheel is still powered on though.
What I find is odd is that sometimes the wheel would disconnect at times shortly before or after practice (1-2 laps), while at other times I could go 10+ laps with no disconnection. Prior to race night in testing I thought it may have been the USB expansion hub to which the wheel's USB is connected may have gotten defective so I bought a new one before race night. And that I used to connect initially but while waiting for practice/qualifying I still disconnected. That's when I unplugged it and plugged in the wheelbase USB directly to the PS4 USB. That went fine until just before the last 4 minutes.
The reason why I need to have the USB expansion hub is this. The PS4 only has 2 available USB ports which are to the front. I have an external expansion storage drive (for more storage of course) which must be plugged in to one of the PS4's USB ports. I have that plugged in to the #1 USB port. That then leaves just the one other available PS4 USB port to which the USB expansion hub is plugged in to in order to plug in the wheelbase's USB cable and also the Razer headphone wireless's basestation in order to listen in-game and communicate with other racers.
Sorry for the lengthly read but this is just to give an insight to how everything is connected etc in case anyone has insight or suggestions.
BTW, I'm on vacation from today for the next month and was really hoping to take advantage of some gaming. One thing for sure if I can't get this resolved that may be the end for me for sim racing (eg Pcars 2) as I have no intension of buying another wheel nor do I wish to race with the DS controller with the exception of Wreckfest for PS4 which I intend to purchase when released next month since that may be more forgiving.
Anyone has any advice or suggestions to resolve please chime in.
Oh and one other thing sending back the wheel to Fanatec for diagnosis and whatever is out of the question because it will cost too much for shipping from my location in the Caribbean to and fro.
- 2,417
- St. Cloud, Florida
- aracefan
Man, I'm at a loss @davidt33 . My only suggestion, and don't know how doable it would be for you - is to get an internal hard drive for the PS4 (that's what I did, 2TB laptop drive), replace the drive that's in your PS4. That would free up the #1 USB slot on your PS4. Other than that, I really have no idea what could be causing the issues your having. I hope you can get it sorted though! 👍
@yogi bear - - any ideas (Bear Tech support number; 1-866-9SENDIT)
@yogi bear - - any ideas (Bear Tech support number; 1-866-9SENDIT)
- 2,417
- St. Cloud, Florida
- aracefan
- 3,090
- Port of Spain
- davidtsmith333
The strange thing is everything was working fine before I moved to the new apartment last month with everything connected same as before. I wonder if something may have happened with the wheel base or cables intransit. The Fanatec wheelbase and pedals I left on the Deluxe stand and just collapsed it so the wheelbase on stand was lowered to the pedals. But I was careful to put it carefully in the car and put it in the new apartment and transporting from and to the new apartment was just about 3 minutes or so being right around the corner. So that's what's also beating me.
- 1,814
- San Diego CA
- Alex_ONeil
- 3,090
- Port of Spain
- davidtsmith333
The external storage drive must be plugged into one of the PS4 USB ports directly and not via a USB hub. That is one thing I double-checked in the external drive instructions. So I have that plugged into USB port 1.
And the USB expansion hubs (4-port) for the other periferals are both USB 3.0. Also double-checked that.
- 1,218
- Langham, sk.
- Old bear
Do you have your old wheel? Or could you borrow another one. Just as a means of elemination. To find out if it's the Wheel or PS4 that is the problem.
- 3,090
- Port of Spain
- davidtsmith333
Yogi, No I don't have the old wheels anymore. Both went on the bum and there's no one I know I can borrow a wheel from.
There's a possibility the issue may be the PS4 as you mention the possibility I dunno. Since the move I was able to watch DVD movies with it without disconnections though.
Haven't tried switching ports yet Sgeti but will try that next.
- 1,814
- San Diego CA
- Alex_ONeil
- 1,814
- San Diego CA
- Alex_ONeil
Also, a 3.1 usb hub would be better.
- 1,320
- Connecticut
- Stanc06
How is there a 3 way tie for first after race one lmao
- 3,090
- Port of Spain
- davidtsmith333
Just an update re my Fanatec CSL Elite recent disconnection issue. Got in touch with a Fanatec customer service tech via chat and gave an overview. He wondered if probable cause could be the wheelbase's USB was connected via a USB expansion hub which may have gone bad. I told him I bought a new USB expansion hub the other day to replace and see if it solved the problem but it still persisted. He asked if I tried connecting the wheelbase's USB directly to the PS4 port instead to test. I told him I tried that afterwards but still disconnected, this time (last Thursday) after approx 86 mins. That led to the problem may not be the USB expansion hub.
So that led to the next probable cause he said which could be the wheelbase's USB (2.0) A-B cable. I told him that was also one of my considerations but hadn't gotten around to that yet. So I showed him one I found on Amazon (with ferrite cores on both ends) and asked if that was suitable to which he confirmed Yes. So shortly after I ordered it. Delivery from Amazon to my USA shipper is Monday coming and then should take approx 2-3 days for clearance and delivery to me here in Trinidad. Keeping fingers crossed.
So that led to the next probable cause he said which could be the wheelbase's USB (2.0) A-B cable. I told him that was also one of my considerations but hadn't gotten around to that yet. So I showed him one I found on Amazon (with ferrite cores on both ends) and asked if that was suitable to which he confirmed Yes. So shortly after I ordered it. Delivery from Amazon to my USA shipper is Monday coming and then should take approx 2-3 days for clearance and delivery to me here in Trinidad. Keeping fingers crossed.
- 1,320
- Connecticut
- Stanc06
Why don't they just send you a new wheel. Like this seems assanine at this point. Like my thrustmaster was wheel did the random button press **** I called them told them what was happening and had a brand new wheel within 2 days. I don't think you should be making repairs on a brand new wheel. Send the **** back get a new one
- 3,090
- Port of Spain
- davidtsmith333
If it was so easy. The thing is too remember I'm in the Caribbean and I doubt they'll want to pay the cost of shipping which would leave me to incur that cost and shipping one way to or fro is almost the cost of the wheel itself and it ain't cheap. If I was in America that would have more been an option I would have pursued.
- 1,320
- Connecticut
- Stanc06
On the real if you make a product and claim you ship world wide you have to support it regardless of shipment do u need me to call them for u and get u a new wheel cause I personally don't have patience for what your going thru. If I pay my hard earned money for something it better work properly
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- 796
- Colorado
- ONESPACE
Just my opinion. But I had problems with my ps3. Trying to use a hub for the wheel and a external storage drive into the ps3. I'll never try it again.
Plug wheel directly into ps4.
Never use storage device while using wheel.
And if you have a fancy bluetooth headset, use a wired one.
But disconnection issues are usually from bad internet.
When I got my Fanatec CSL. I had all kinds of problems with the wheel. But no disconnection issues. I made videos for them, I shipped it back, they fixed it and no more problems. Except here lately, the R2 button starts working on its own.
I also had issue with wheel disconnecting when I would stand up from the seat. That was caused by static electricity. My wheel cockpit is sitting on carpet, so I get up very slowly now. Then run to the pisser.
- 3,090
- Port of Spain
- davidtsmith333
The thing is though, the connections inclusive via the external storage drive and USB hub had been working flawlessly for the longest while (well over a year since). It would be very odd that all of a sudden it wouldn't work similarly.
As for internet, since I moved to the new apartment we got an upgraded package whereby previously I had a 40-60mbs download I now have a 100mbs download so internet speed-wise is much better.
- 796
- Colorado
- ONESPACE
I'm sure you've said this before. Are you wired or wireless?
Wired is the only way to go. All the way from the pole, to your modem. And sure a cable splitter box in between for a couple TV'S. If your cable splitter box has a punch of other crap plugged in for no damn reason. Get one with less splitters. And use good ones, and make good cable connections. (on the cable wire) if you run your own cable.
Sorry man, I'm blurting out a bunch of hog wash. Hope it's something in your USB's. But disconnection are usually from bad speeds, cheap hardware, and poor workmanship. Oops I used a word that had MAN in it. Cali cops might arrest me.
And if you're wireless,
Wired is the only way to go. All the way from the pole, to your modem. And sure a cable splitter box in between for a couple TV'S. If your cable splitter box has a punch of other crap plugged in for no damn reason. Get one with less splitters. And use good ones, and make good cable connections. (on the cable wire) if you run your own cable.
Sorry man, I'm blurting out a bunch of hog wash. Hope it's something in your USB's. But disconnection are usually from bad speeds, cheap hardware, and poor workmanship. Oops I used a word that had MAN in it. Cali cops might arrest me.
And if you're wireless,
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