- 12,630
- paracuru
- praiano63
@luv2drive
let's start with this question:
When you tune a car from scratch, is there a certain sequence you always follow in terms of the different categories of tuning mods, like power, Aero, LSD, suspension?
For the power i alway favor power than torque . Torque can be good for track that have a mix of slow speed sections and fast speed sections . The main problem is the motricity or drivability to manage the wheel spin out a slow corner for example.
Power is more easy to manage than torque and for high speed , it's more performant. Power speaks more than torque in term of top speed.
Aero have influence on PP as i explain several times.
I put as much i can on the rear and as less i can on front.
Ride height act as downforce and don't have any influence on PP so that's why my cars have this look.
LSD
Initial : I use to limit the pivot of a car . If the balance have a lot of oscillation, if a car swing turn a problem to his driving line overall.
Accel: I try to set the car a way some eagerness out of corner , giving a light oversteer.
Decell: I raise the value to control a car entering a curve under heavy braking situation, turning the car controble and stable .
Suspension: All is working the way it's suppose to be. The only one that don't work even inverted is the ride height. Higher ride height giving more stability. In GT7
Interesting about torque vs power - I never looked at that closely enough.
But it brings up another question. How do you decide when to do weight reduction vs. not? It seems generally have many stages of weight reduction, even if it means sacrificing engine power to get down to the required PP level
Are you aiming for a particular weight-to-power ratio?
Optimizing Weight x power x grip is hard to define.
For any PP class , i have reference ghost on several tracks , that help me to decide the best option.
Testing wheight / power and checking your new car against your best reference ghost is the key.
Normally i do this on tracks i know perfectly and represent different kind of track that reveal differents behaviors for each cars.
Normally Nordschleife , suzuka , SPA or Tsukuba for low power cars.
Oh that's an interesting technique. I guess it makes sense once you have enough experience. Do you have any basic rules of thumb for that?
If we switch the topic to suspension, I'm unclear how to decide when I need to change any of those settings, and how they work together.
With ride height you said you always want high rear to get more grip, is that right? How do you decide what value to set the front?
Do you have any basic rules of thumb for that?
No rules and no orders for me. A lot of practice since a lot of time.
how to decide when I need to change any of those settings
Like i've say in my garage several time , everything work like the manual "beyond the apex" less the ride height above stability that is inverted
How do you decide what value to set the front RH
I use it like front downforce. Low front downforce increase front grip in GT without increasing Performant points. Why my cars look like a very low front end.
If you change tires, say for example from SM to SH on a tune, would you need to change the suspension settings to accommodate that? If so, what would generally need to be changed?
For one grade up or down , nothing change about springs , Harder springs settings above 2 or 3 grades above . For example from SH to SS or RH. This will contain the weight transfer over the tires due to + grip.
One last question about transmission which I forgot
With the customizable transmission in the game there is the "Top Speed" setting and then there are the individual gear and final gear setting sin the detailed screen.
Sometimes I've seen you set "top speed" all the way to the left (250) and do all adjustments inside the individual gears which still gets a top speed in 6th gear in the 320 (let's say) range.
Other times you set the "Top Speed" around the right value (say 320) and then adjust the gears accordingly.
What is the difference between these two approaches?
The "tranny trick" is just a way yo make your gearbox with close gears . HERE
Sometime without this technique you can't set your gearbox because it's impossible to reach the ratios without it.
Most of the time , you don't need to use this trick.
To taylor a gearbox for a given car on a given track:
-Set last gear to reach optimum RPM ( peak max power) on the faster point of the circuit.
-Set the 1st gear to be able the best retake out the slower curve of the circuit.
-Spread the intermediary gears heavenly (you can set a single gear at optimum rpm to pass through a serie of turns without needing to shift )
EDIT: When i write " The only one that don't work even inverted is the ride height. Higher ride height giving more stability. In GT7" i have to be more specific. This is right for road cars with few or no downforce. Don't consider this true for racing cars with extra ++ downforce.
Also on a road car on a 600PP or 700PP , with rear diffuser or not , you can gain around 10 to 15 kmh extra top speed using a low ride height. The car will lost stability but gain more top speed.
Last time attack on Nordschleife with NSX R '02 was a good example for this.
let's start with this question:
When you tune a car from scratch, is there a certain sequence you always follow in terms of the different categories of tuning mods, like power, Aero, LSD, suspension?
For the power i alway favor power than torque . Torque can be good for track that have a mix of slow speed sections and fast speed sections . The main problem is the motricity or drivability to manage the wheel spin out a slow corner for example.
Power is more easy to manage than torque and for high speed , it's more performant. Power speaks more than torque in term of top speed.
Aero have influence on PP as i explain several times.
- Front downforce = + PP
- rear downforce = -PP
I put as much i can on the rear and as less i can on front.
Ride height act as downforce and don't have any influence on PP so that's why my cars have this look.
LSD
Initial : I use to limit the pivot of a car . If the balance have a lot of oscillation, if a car swing turn a problem to his driving line overall.
Accel: I try to set the car a way some eagerness out of corner , giving a light oversteer.
Decell: I raise the value to control a car entering a curve under heavy braking situation, turning the car controble and stable .
Suspension: All is working the way it's suppose to be. The only one that don't work even inverted is the ride height. Higher ride height giving more stability. In GT7
Interesting about torque vs power - I never looked at that closely enough.
But it brings up another question. How do you decide when to do weight reduction vs. not? It seems generally have many stages of weight reduction, even if it means sacrificing engine power to get down to the required PP level
Are you aiming for a particular weight-to-power ratio?
Optimizing Weight x power x grip is hard to define.
For any PP class , i have reference ghost on several tracks , that help me to decide the best option.
Testing wheight / power and checking your new car against your best reference ghost is the key.
Normally i do this on tracks i know perfectly and represent different kind of track that reveal differents behaviors for each cars.
Normally Nordschleife , suzuka , SPA or Tsukuba for low power cars.
Oh that's an interesting technique. I guess it makes sense once you have enough experience. Do you have any basic rules of thumb for that?
If we switch the topic to suspension, I'm unclear how to decide when I need to change any of those settings, and how they work together.
With ride height you said you always want high rear to get more grip, is that right? How do you decide what value to set the front?
Do you have any basic rules of thumb for that?
No rules and no orders for me. A lot of practice since a lot of time.
how to decide when I need to change any of those settings
Like i've say in my garage several time , everything work like the manual "beyond the apex" less the ride height above stability that is inverted
How do you decide what value to set the front RH
I use it like front downforce. Low front downforce increase front grip in GT without increasing Performant points. Why my cars look like a very low front end.
If you change tires, say for example from SM to SH on a tune, would you need to change the suspension settings to accommodate that? If so, what would generally need to be changed?
For one grade up or down , nothing change about springs , Harder springs settings above 2 or 3 grades above . For example from SH to SS or RH. This will contain the weight transfer over the tires due to + grip.
One last question about transmission which I forgot
With the customizable transmission in the game there is the "Top Speed" setting and then there are the individual gear and final gear setting sin the detailed screen.
Sometimes I've seen you set "top speed" all the way to the left (250) and do all adjustments inside the individual gears which still gets a top speed in 6th gear in the 320 (let's say) range.
Other times you set the "Top Speed" around the right value (say 320) and then adjust the gears accordingly.
What is the difference between these two approaches?
The "tranny trick" is just a way yo make your gearbox with close gears . HERE
Sometime without this technique you can't set your gearbox because it's impossible to reach the ratios without it.
Most of the time , you don't need to use this trick.
To taylor a gearbox for a given car on a given track:
-Set last gear to reach optimum RPM ( peak max power) on the faster point of the circuit.
-Set the 1st gear to be able the best retake out the slower curve of the circuit.
-Spread the intermediary gears heavenly (you can set a single gear at optimum rpm to pass through a serie of turns without needing to shift )
EDIT: When i write " The only one that don't work even inverted is the ride height. Higher ride height giving more stability. In GT7" i have to be more specific. This is right for road cars with few or no downforce. Don't consider this true for racing cars with extra ++ downforce.
Also on a road car on a 600PP or 700PP , with rear diffuser or not , you can gain around 10 to 15 kmh extra top speed using a low ride height. The car will lost stability but gain more top speed.
Last time attack on Nordschleife with NSX R '02 was a good example for this.
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