Project R
- Thread starter Mr Latte
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Mr Latte
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Once again, keep getting compliments, so thanks err yet again.
Its early days yet, so this is going to get much more impressive looking as it continues.
You all have to yet see the shape/style of the main frame.
Lunarwolf, hi again, the cockpit can be dismantled but the intention is not to really have to move it. Anything that joins is either bolted or screwed together but Im keeping the idea in my head that it can be taken down without too much hassle.
Any further questions at this stage people?
More updates to come as well.
Im dredding doing the subwoofers...
Its early days yet, so this is going to get much more impressive looking as it continues.
You all have to yet see the shape/style of the main frame.
Lunarwolf, hi again, the cockpit can be dismantled but the intention is not to really have to move it. Anything that joins is either bolted or screwed together but Im keeping the idea in my head that it can be taken down without too much hassle.
Any further questions at this stage people?
More updates to come as well.
Im dredding doing the subwoofers...
Mr Latte
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It's funny you mention it as I had been reading about how using it in smaller or sealed woofer boxes can help enhance the sound waves.
Let's see how it goes with the fat mat stuff and port hole.
I don't want to cut the holes until I sort out the positioning of the seat.
Let's see how it goes with the fat mat stuff and port hole.
I don't want to cut the holes until I sort out the positioning of the seat.
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Mr Latte
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- 5,072
- N Ireland
Okay ordered 12x M8 Hand wheel type bolts.
The idea is to use these on the seat section.
Probably one of the most adaptable cockpits on these forums in the last year or so was the great work Timppaq did with his GTRR cockpit. One advantage I have had with this build of mine taking so long to get started is to admire elements/ideas from some of the others around the net that have appeared on forums. While I dont like just copying someone elses work/ideas I prefer to try and incorporate the feature my own way.
I certainly dont need all that adaptability as my cockpit is aimed mainly for myself however "Timppaq" made good comments regards making a cockpit with as much adaptability as possible. Not just for others to get a comfortable seating position but for different racing game formats, like F1 seat/pedal layout.
So I want to have the same versatility regards positioning of mainly the seat but also the pedals and wheel platform. What I wasnt so keen on was the fixing method he used with lots of pre drilled holes. While fine it requires completely removing that component to raise/lower it and then rebolt it. Bit tedious for me and if tedious then I am unlikely to change/adapt the positions I use.
My "Plan B" seat frame components should arrive and be tested next week. The target is to get a design/build that allows the seat to easily, with loosening the hand wheel bolts on the clamps enables simple height and angle adjustments.
Seat Upright (Beta 2)
A "H" shaped frame will connect to 4x uprights.
This allows the height to be altered. The central bar of the "H" frame will have 2x right angle clamps that can be tilted/angled and tightened.
These will connect to an upper frame which will then be bolted to the seat etc. So effectively the weight of the seat/user is supported by the 4x uprights and the central "H" column has dual pivoting clamps for adjusting the seat angle.
Speaker Stand (Early Beta)
Here is a quick trial at making a speaker stand from the same chrome tubing.
I think it will look nice and this again will allow the height and direction of the speaker to be altered.
Should be easy to hide the cables in the tubing and drill a hole into the base.
Base Feet & Attachment
So drill a 10mm hole, hammer these in and tighten the 8mm threaded foot...
The idea is to use these on the seat section.
Probably one of the most adaptable cockpits on these forums in the last year or so was the great work Timppaq did with his GTRR cockpit. One advantage I have had with this build of mine taking so long to get started is to admire elements/ideas from some of the others around the net that have appeared on forums. While I dont like just copying someone elses work/ideas I prefer to try and incorporate the feature my own way.
I certainly dont need all that adaptability as my cockpit is aimed mainly for myself however "Timppaq" made good comments regards making a cockpit with as much adaptability as possible. Not just for others to get a comfortable seating position but for different racing game formats, like F1 seat/pedal layout.
So I want to have the same versatility regards positioning of mainly the seat but also the pedals and wheel platform. What I wasnt so keen on was the fixing method he used with lots of pre drilled holes. While fine it requires completely removing that component to raise/lower it and then rebolt it. Bit tedious for me and if tedious then I am unlikely to change/adapt the positions I use.
My "Plan B" seat frame components should arrive and be tested next week. The target is to get a design/build that allows the seat to easily, with loosening the hand wheel bolts on the clamps enables simple height and angle adjustments.
Seat Upright (Beta 2)
A "H" shaped frame will connect to 4x uprights.
This allows the height to be altered. The central bar of the "H" frame will have 2x right angle clamps that can be tilted/angled and tightened.
These will connect to an upper frame which will then be bolted to the seat etc. So effectively the weight of the seat/user is supported by the 4x uprights and the central "H" column has dual pivoting clamps for adjusting the seat angle.
Speaker Stand (Early Beta)
Here is a quick trial at making a speaker stand from the same chrome tubing.
I think it will look nice and this again will allow the height and direction of the speaker to be altered.
Should be easy to hide the cables in the tubing and drill a hole into the base.
Base Feet & Attachment
So drill a 10mm hole, hammer these in and tighten the 8mm threaded foot...
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Mr Latte
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- 5,072
- N Ireland
Thanks Ray...
Big shout out of major thanks to "Johnny" the Royal Mail postman.
Ahhhh, cheers for coming all the way back with a parcel containing parts I need. 👍
Questions:
So far what are you guys not liking or not so sure about?
Anyone want to pin point concerns or have thoughts on something I should change?
Any viewers got experience with vinyl flooring or know of good suppliers in the UK?
My biggest worry at the moment is these subs and avoiding vibration issues with the metal fittings, wooden base. I hope I dont need a layer of that Fat Mat material on the top as well.
So thinking maybe vinyl flooring would help further reduce vibrations.
Has to be black though to set off the chrome.
Here is one example of a company "Vinyl Flooring"
Some styles:
Any you like guys?
Im looking forward to get cracking on as my favourite bits of the whole design have still yet to come.
Big shout out of major thanks to "Johnny" the Royal Mail postman.
Ahhhh, cheers for coming all the way back with a parcel containing parts I need. 👍
Questions:
So far what are you guys not liking or not so sure about?
Anyone want to pin point concerns or have thoughts on something I should change?
Any viewers got experience with vinyl flooring or know of good suppliers in the UK?
My biggest worry at the moment is these subs and avoiding vibration issues with the metal fittings, wooden base. I hope I dont need a layer of that Fat Mat material on the top as well.
So thinking maybe vinyl flooring would help further reduce vibrations.
Has to be black though to set off the chrome.
Here is one example of a company "Vinyl Flooring"
Some styles:
Any you like guys?
Im looking forward to get cracking on as my favourite bits of the whole design have still yet to come.
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- 838
- Tennessee
Looking very nice Mr. Latte. As for the vinyl, I would definitely go with the diamond plate patter. Never know when you will want more diamond plating for anything. That will go nicely. The only problem I might see in the future would be the tightening integrity bolting down on an uneven surface.
I would use metal plates where the chromed metal is going to meet the wood. Or any metal to wood for that matter. Just trim the vinyl very nicely to fit over the chrome parts.
I once restored a 1978 Jeep CJ-7 and the inside door panels were garbage. My fix for that was diamond plate with a black powder coating adhered to it. Turned out very nice and matched the vinyl diamond plate center console to a tee. Cheers you Crafty one, Vince
I would use metal plates where the chromed metal is going to meet the wood. Or any metal to wood for that matter. Just trim the vinyl very nicely to fit over the chrome parts.
I once restored a 1978 Jeep CJ-7 and the inside door panels were garbage. My fix for that was diamond plate with a black powder coating adhered to it. Turned out very nice and matched the vinyl diamond plate center console to a tee. Cheers you Crafty one, Vince
Mr Latte
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- 5,072
- N Ireland
Im leaning towards that checker plate myself.
It can be bought cut to a size I need, as one piece. The only drawback being its max width of 140cm which is about 12cm short of the full width of the cockpit.
So maybe the difference could allow for a 6cm outer border of some sorts. Either with a plastic, metal or painted wood. This might be nice as red, silver or just keep black.Will have to give it some thought but having one vinyl cutting in my mind would make things simplier.
Vince, would having the vinyl laid first ensuring the base was completely level with no bumps/dips be best? Could then cut the holes for the subs and the vinyl in one go, what you think? As for the chrome uprights they are circular so could either just fasten them on top of the vinly pattern directly with screws into the wood but know what you mean with the pattern maybe creating a gap or again drill an appropriate hole in the vinyl for the chrome upright.
The good thing is this vinyl is going to be less than half the price covering the top layer of the base in acrylic would of cost.
Also this will be more durable and less prone to wear/tear.
Edit:
Just remembered the chrome surround uprights may be close to that 6cm border. Would make things simplier if didnt have to cut out all of those and only for the main frame uprights.
It can be bought cut to a size I need, as one piece. The only drawback being its max width of 140cm which is about 12cm short of the full width of the cockpit.
So maybe the difference could allow for a 6cm outer border of some sorts. Either with a plastic, metal or painted wood. This might be nice as red, silver or just keep black.Will have to give it some thought but having one vinyl cutting in my mind would make things simplier.
Vince, would having the vinyl laid first ensuring the base was completely level with no bumps/dips be best? Could then cut the holes for the subs and the vinyl in one go, what you think? As for the chrome uprights they are circular so could either just fasten them on top of the vinly pattern directly with screws into the wood but know what you mean with the pattern maybe creating a gap or again drill an appropriate hole in the vinyl for the chrome upright.
The good thing is this vinyl is going to be less than half the price covering the top layer of the base in acrylic would of cost.
Also this will be more durable and less prone to wear/tear.
Edit:
Just remembered the chrome surround uprights may be close to that 6cm border. Would make things simplier if didnt have to cut out all of those and only for the main frame uprights.
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- 838
- Tennessee
I concur with Wolf. Foam would be a much better deadening device. Using pipe insulators foam material that is. It is about 2 inches thick and doesn't cost a fortune. If you were to install it on the under sides of the frame and other hidden areas. But the vinyl seems to be a must have for the topside. As for the laying of it the cutting holes with a fine toothed hole saw that would do the trick.
I think my whole thought process with the metal plates just sounded a little stronger then drilling into lumber. If you are going into 4x4 material pressure treated even, I think some 3 inch screws would do the trick.
Mr Latte
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- N Ireland
Take onboard those suggestions, thanks guys...
The thing is I cant really have thick material on the inside of the base regards the subwoofer areas. By the sounds of it (excuse the pun) if the vibrations/rumble are a problem for the metal frame mounts and wooden base then I may as well bite the bullet and although its not cheap purchase enough "Fat Matt" to also cover the outer/top of the base and then have the vinyl on top of that.
The chrome mounts for the main frame will have additional support from the underside and top side of the cockpit. Those ones for the surround (shown so far) have no weight or purpose other than to look nice. So as long as they are tightened down and dont vibrate should be okay. If they do then I may consider rubber isilators for each single mount and indeed then use 3" screws to go through all the layers and into the wood.
I think you guys are gonna love the rear section of the cockpit and this will give the cockpit a lot of its style/character.
Im purposely not going to be showing various things complete as this will make the final presentation more exciting.
Hey it perhaps will keep you all eager ....
Keep the feedback and ideas coming.
The thing is I cant really have thick material on the inside of the base regards the subwoofer areas. By the sounds of it (excuse the pun) if the vibrations/rumble are a problem for the metal frame mounts and wooden base then I may as well bite the bullet and although its not cheap purchase enough "Fat Matt" to also cover the outer/top of the base and then have the vinyl on top of that.
The chrome mounts for the main frame will have additional support from the underside and top side of the cockpit. Those ones for the surround (shown so far) have no weight or purpose other than to look nice. So as long as they are tightened down and dont vibrate should be okay. If they do then I may consider rubber isilators for each single mount and indeed then use 3" screws to go through all the layers and into the wood.
I think you guys are gonna love the rear section of the cockpit and this will give the cockpit a lot of its style/character.
Im purposely not going to be showing various things complete as this will make the final presentation more exciting.
Hey it perhaps will keep you all eager ....
Keep the feedback and ideas coming.
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Mr Latte
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- 5,072
- N Ireland
What a headache.
Currently have about 300 thoughts in my head for things that will need done for this and I can't switch off, it really is doing my head in. So much hinges on this base and the audio/vibrations from the subs being controlled. For the first time I feel a bit worried/concerned. I know I can find a solution, the question is will the ideas implemented be a solution. If not extra work and worse, extra money is going to be needed to achieve this goal.
Going to order that checker plate rubber matt soon as it will take a while to get here.
I may employ a carpet/specialist to lay it and do the necessary cutting.
For the "Fat Mat" should I cut and stick the sections for the walls seperate to the roof for these subwooder compartments or just keep it all intact and fold/bend it? Everything on the top side will be removed to put the base upsidedown again.
Currently have about 300 thoughts in my head for things that will need done for this and I can't switch off, it really is doing my head in. So much hinges on this base and the audio/vibrations from the subs being controlled. For the first time I feel a bit worried/concerned. I know I can find a solution, the question is will the ideas implemented be a solution. If not extra work and worse, extra money is going to be needed to achieve this goal.
Going to order that checker plate rubber matt soon as it will take a while to get here.
I may employ a carpet/specialist to lay it and do the necessary cutting.
For the "Fat Mat" should I cut and stick the sections for the walls seperate to the roof for these subwooder compartments or just keep it all intact and fold/bend it? Everything on the top side will be removed to put the base upsidedown again.
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Mr Latte
Premium
- 5,072
- N Ireland
Not the full setup no.
I have had 10x tactile working with my 7.1 home cinema at home for quite sometime though on a temporary setup using my seat and a WSP.
Having issues with the seat mount, it looks like the clamps cant support the weight as they slip a little.
Need a modification or just decide to drop the whole idea of having height and angle adjustments available.
Temp incomplete configuration testing...
The outer square was for adjusting height.
The "V" shaped inner section although unfinished was to be a square at the top and allow the angle of the seat to be tilted from the central support.
I have had 10x tactile working with my 7.1 home cinema at home for quite sometime though on a temporary setup using my seat and a WSP.
Having issues with the seat mount, it looks like the clamps cant support the weight as they slip a little.
Need a modification or just decide to drop the whole idea of having height and angle adjustments available.
Temp incomplete configuration testing...
The outer square was for adjusting height.
The "V" shaped inner section although unfinished was to be a square at the top and allow the angle of the seat to be tilted from the central support.
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Have you considered using a power adjusting seat mechanism from an actual car at a junk yard? I'm not sure it if it would provide the range of motion you are looking for, but it definitely wins points for realism and for ease of adjustment! I thought of adding one to my rig, but found that having fore/aft adjustment was enough for me.
David
David
Mr Latte
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- N Ireland
Appreciate the suggestions JS, but if adding the ability to change the height the clamps are not going to be locking in the same location, they will either be raised or lowered with those upright poles. As for powered seat not what I want and even considered a gas cylinder type idea that office chairs use.
Drilling holes and having like Timppaq had could be done but I dont really want to have to remove bolts, reposition and retighten. This was perfect with those handles but it just cant sustain the weight and I want the chrome finish.
Going to see about a secondary clamp or tweaks.
Drilling holes and having like Timppaq had could be done but I dont really want to have to remove bolts, reposition and retighten. This was perfect with those handles but it just cant sustain the weight and I want the chrome finish.
Going to see about a secondary clamp or tweaks.
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Mr Latte
Premium
- 5,072
- N Ireland
Sometime later......
Tried a few more ideas, even not using those handles and going for locking the normal bolts as tight as possible.
Decided to just settle with having no height or angle options.
The seat has its own bolts for adjusting the height and angle but that requires removing nut/bolt and re-aligning.
Unfortunate that this idea has not worked out but I guess this happens. As I said earlier its not something I would do alot in changing the seating position in height/angle besides the seat will still be on seat runners but it would of been nice as a feature to have.
Have a new layout to do now that will be fixed height.
"Seat Frame Beta 3" should be ready for the weekend.
Tried a few more ideas, even not using those handles and going for locking the normal bolts as tight as possible.
Decided to just settle with having no height or angle options.
The seat has its own bolts for adjusting the height and angle but that requires removing nut/bolt and re-aligning.
Unfortunate that this idea has not worked out but I guess this happens. As I said earlier its not something I would do alot in changing the seating position in height/angle besides the seat will still be on seat runners but it would of been nice as a feature to have.
Have a new layout to do now that will be fixed height.
"Seat Frame Beta 3" should be ready for the weekend.
Mr Latte
Premium
- 5,072
- N Ireland
Right guys so, something that is quite simple but not too basic.
This is only a rough build and missing a bit yet, also may not be the final height. Comment what you think.
I need to get an idea of what Im going for so that I can sort out the positioning of this seat frame and the subwoofers to then allow me to determine where I need to cut the holes for the subs.
Will use this as a starting point as a fixed non adjustable seat mount however I have a slightly revised option I may consider as well to see what I prefer. Still this is a bit fancier than what general cockpits like Gamepod/VR3/Rennsport use.
A wooden shelf can be mounted to the top of this which will allow the seat runners and seat to then be attached including isolators.The side bars will be visible at the side of the seat. Perhaps they will help the look with the black of the seat but will also allow other things to be clamped for say a gearstick, raised platform etc.
This is only a rough build and missing a bit yet, also may not be the final height. Comment what you think.
I need to get an idea of what Im going for so that I can sort out the positioning of this seat frame and the subwoofers to then allow me to determine where I need to cut the holes for the subs.
Will use this as a starting point as a fixed non adjustable seat mount however I have a slightly revised option I may consider as well to see what I prefer. Still this is a bit fancier than what general cockpits like Gamepod/VR3/Rennsport use.
A wooden shelf can be mounted to the top of this which will allow the seat runners and seat to then be attached including isolators.The side bars will be visible at the side of the seat. Perhaps they will help the look with the black of the seat but will also allow other things to be clamped for say a gearstick, raised platform etc.
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Mr Latte
Premium
- 5,072
- N Ireland
Looooonnnnng way to go yet mate...
The main frame will be quite easy to do, just need to wait to have the funds available to buy more of the tubing and fittings before I can start with that part.
I will take some inspiration from this.
Well this is my favourite cockpit available on the market.
The main frame will be quite easy to do, just need to wait to have the funds available to buy more of the tubing and fittings before I can start with that part.
I will take some inspiration from this.
Well this is my favourite cockpit available on the market.
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- HalvsteinShingel
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