Project R

  • Thread starter Mr Latte
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Had a good 5 hours working at the base today. Made the centre subwoofer area bigger. Have most of the fat mat material cut and laid into each subwoofer enclosure.

Attached the new 18mm base wood with plenty of screws. Needed a small alignment correction to one part of the base frame. Measured out carefully and drilled 10x 20mm holes for the feet. Then drilled 10mm holes in these for the metal threaded inserts. Those were hammered in tight and the feet attached. The base now is so heavy I can barely lift or move it myself.

The bottom needs removed again when more fat mat ordered arrives. Then it will be time to drill holes for speaker cables. Subs can then be attached ready for using and the 20mm chrome tubing will be finished to the top. From here I can test and determine if the subs need port holes or if their is too much booming or vibration issues. If not then I can move on and finish off the base with Perspex, lighting and top materials.

It is surprising the amount of work that has went into this base alone and I never anticipated it to be as much effort. It has been quite costly to make as well if including tools/fixings/materials needed.
 
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Not a great image but you can see the "FatMat" needs cut out on two of the holes. A look through the centre hole, you will see the under base attached. Got to put the "Fat Mat" on the underside (more ordered) so internal top/bottom/sides are applied with it.

Also a test placement of 3x Aura Tactile units (L/C/R) which will be placed underneath inside the base and work in conjunction with the subwoofers.

4dGby.jpg



Finally the base is off the floor, yippee!
One of the 10x metal feet that allow the base to be set level.

Z7BbK.jpg
 
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When you ask about a sponge/foam type material to improve sound, do you mean something to put inside the enclosure?

If so, you can use polyfill, which is a polyester product used for for filling pillows and cushions. I used to buy it at fabric stores and use it in sealed boxes to tighten up the sound of subwoofers that had issues with over-excursion. It helps with dampening.

I was considering something like acoustic foam tiles?
Putting them inside the base platform for below the Dual 12" subs going behind the seat. Could really use this for both the front and back sections to prevent any reverb/echo/booming going into those sections?

Here

Example

AEzPA.jpg
 
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Can I see some updated pictures of the cockpit itself if you have any. I am going to be building one myself soon and I just want some ideas.
 
Can I see some updated pictures of the cockpit itself if you have any. I am going to be building one myself soon and I just want some ideas.

Hi Doc, that I don't have.
Most people that make their own seem to copy something like a Playseat or Gamepod type idea. My own design ideas are nothing like those and different to anything I've seen in any forums before. Guess I want to set a high benchmark, the question is will I?
 
Are we talking a Forza 4 cockpit or are we looking at a GT6 scenario. Lol.
 
Well theirs a question I havnt had before. :grumpy:
If you want to send via Pay Pal about £600 to help me get more tubing, fittings, perspex, rubber flooring, audio tiles, paint that would be great.

Time to put a stop on the updates for a while, seems pointless covering what IS going on as posts made have little or nothing to do with the content of the updates being added. Of course what is more interesting is...

How much? When will it be ready?
How much? When will it be ready?
How much? When will it be ready?
How much? When will it be ready?
How much? When will it be ready?
How much? When will it be ready?
How much? When will it be ready?
How much? When will it be ready?
How much? When will it be ready?


Too stressed out, frustrated at the moment to be wound up...
 
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Hey, cheer up you'll get there.

I'm sure you'll be racing long before GT6.
Didn't mean to offend.

Sorry.
 
Hey Latte, I hope that you don't put a stop to updates due to the obvious questions. Though it is certainly gratifying to see a completed project, I happen to be more interested in the building process for certain things.

To get back on topic with the foam in the picture, I don't know how much that would help. It has acoustic benefits for recording studios, particularly smaller ones, to cut down on echos and reverb. If your rig is going to be in a small room, then it might be good for the walls and ceiling, but for the rig itself I don't know.
 
Well theirs a question I havnt had before. :grumpy:
If you want to send via Pay Pal about £600 to help me get more tubing, fittings, perspex, rubber flooring, audio tiles, paint that would be great.

Time to put a stop on the updates for a while, seems pointless covering what IS going on as posts made have little or nothing to do with the content of the updates being added. Of course what is more interesting is...

How much? When will it be ready?
How much? When will it be ready?
How much? When will it be ready?
How much? When will it be ready?
How much? When will it be ready?
How much? When will it be ready?
How much? When will it be ready?
How much? When will it be ready?
How much? When will it be ready?


Too stressed out, frustrated at the moment to be wound up...

I think most like your updates, if not then this thread would get no traffic. Plus I learned about tactile from seeing your thread (which I will hopefully be trying in a few months) plus the info is cool.
 
To get back on topic with the foam in the picture, I don't know how much that would help. It has acoustic benefits for recording studios, particularly smaller ones, to cut down on echos and reverb. If your rig is going to be in a small room, then it might be good for the walls and ceiling, but for the rig itself I don't know.

Ive been a bit snappy so apologies last night to you guys but Id like readers to realise I'm at a critical point in the build. Frustrated with speed of progress myself, restricted with free time and funds needed. Guess I have a dose of the jitters as well.

Have got worked up over possible issues with the subs and tactile perhaps not operating as needed. It will be a major blow wasting most of the work done so far. Then meaning the wooden platform is nothing more than an expensive flawed idea of having 5x sub-woofers all for nothing. These are a major part of the audio/tactile immersion wanted.

"Audio Tiles" were quite affordable and cheaper than the "Fat Mat" material and I just wondered if it would of been good on the front and back compartments of the wooden base, not in the actual room. I don't want those areas to be empty as they may create booming or other issues regards the audio and tactile. Id rather be cautious and do what can be done to make the base platform perform well with the sub-woofers.

It may be that it is best to buy even more "Fat Mat" and have the whole underside/internals of the wooden base covered. Something I know was recommended but I didn't want to do because of budget reasons. That's about £150 alone for all the "Fat Mat" material with the prices in the UK.
So to build/finish this base not counting subs or tactile but just materials, tools and chrome parts etc is looking to be about £700. Therefore a lot riding on this doing what I expect or need it to do and if it doesn't OMG how or what way do I continue with the build.

It will be a great relief if the audio tests go well and the Project can move on, however the suspense/worry is killing me.
 
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Yeah, FatMat is not cheap and I understand your need to keep costs down. For your rig, it would be best used inside the enclosure(which you already have done) and the surrounding areas where vibration and rattling could be an issue. Other than that, I wouldn't drop too much coin on it.

I am curious about what types of issues you are running into with the subs and transducers in the floor. How are you transferring the surround signals into low frequencies that can be played through such devices? With surround coding used in movies, games, etc. the low frequency is either a mono signal within the codec or simulated and crossed over from the stereo track. Are you taking the full range signal from the surround codec and filtering out the upper frequencies? If so, do you have a way to determine the low frequency cutoff to determine how much useful signal you have to work with? I have seen stereo low frequency channeling in home theater applications before but not surround, other than repeating the same signal to multiple drivers of course.
 
Yeah, FatMat is not cheap and I understand your need to keep costs down. For your rig, it would be best used inside the enclosure(which you already have done) and the surrounding areas where vibration and rattling could be an issue. Other than that, I wouldn't drop too much coin on it.

I am curious about what types of issues you are running into with the subs and transducers in the floor. How are you transferring the surround signals into low frequencies that can be played through such devices? With surround coding used in movies, games, etc. the low frequency is either a mono signal within the codec or simulated and crossed over from the stereo track. Are you taking the full range signal from the surround codec and filtering out the upper frequencies? If so, do you have a way to determine the low frequency cutoff to determine how much useful signal you have to work with? I have seen stereo low frequency channeling in home theater applications before but not surround, other than repeating the same signal to multiple drivers of course.



Well that's the thing, the cables are ready to go in and the first tests done. The issues I've discussed may not be as bad as expected. So far it's theoretical without proper sound insulation that it wont give the best performance or resistance of booming and sustaining vibrations.

At present the centre section with the 3x Subs is the only part completely done with "FatMat". So I could try it with just that however if the expected issues of no sound control materials in the top/bottom sections do arise then it means having to turn it all upside down again, remove the feet and bottom wood panels. That's not an easy thing now with the weight and care if the subs are installed.

Unfortunately I cant just remove the top wooden sheeting the subs are set into. The base has to be upside down and work done via the bottom.

More Info/Understanding Of My tactile Intentions
Tactile will function with any audible channel or surround DSP/Method that use full bandwidth audio. Older Pro-logic I think was restricted to about 7KHz on the surround channels but in all honesty that still would give decent tactile response because higher frequencies produce much less feeling in actual feedback. Really I'm sending full bandwidth audio to the tactile units but it can be controlled via EQ.

In using "Surround Decoding" yes different results will happen with their response depending on the "Surround Mode" used just like a user may prefer the "Audible Differences" between different surround modes in how they utilise alter the sound from the speakers. I have found that a "Multichannel Stereo" type "DSP Mode" that is combined with "Dolby Digital/DTS" has given my tactile the best response over say just using standard "Dolby/DTS" decoding. So "DSP" is also a factor to how/what way the tactile will respond.

Im not saying that surround tactile will feel comfortable for all sources, for examples TV/Movies but in particular racing games very much benefit from directional tactile on multiple channels placing the user bang in the middle of all the audio and feeling it. What you get also varies in how that game utilises its audio so with GT5/Dirt3/FM3/NFSS 2 it is a different and unique experience in tactile. Each games audio design from the studio has been implemented differently and of course sound different so the experience differs.

My idea is to use 7 channel surround with the small multi driver speakers for a nice wide spread of audio from each channel within the restricted space of a cockpit. They were less bulky than a big single driver speaker. These will of course have very little bass response and rely on a sub-woofer for their mid and low end frequencies. Just like an all in one home cinema kit. The downside of this is one sub for both mid and low end frequencies.

During testing a long time ago I discovered that sub-woofers and tactile both benefit from each other. Tactile gives audio/music depth and presence. Bass feels and sounds much tighter when combined with tactile I found. In my case the subs have their own duties. Two will strengthen the Left/Right audio mid range frequencies for the stereo audio (subs either side of the seat). The low frequencies of LFE (subs in centre & behind) will help give a surround bass envelope around the seating position. Combined with the stereo subs it should further immerse the player yet work in tandem with the tactile built into the actual seat, pedals and wheel sections.

The tactile on the various channels are really just like speakers therefore giving surround tactile sensation of movement and effects on individual channels. With each speaker/tactile/subwoofer having individual control via their respective amplifers and EQ being implemented I then should be able to set a matching balance in volume and bass/treble to achieve good results from the speakers, the subs and the tactile for a combined high level of immersion. Having the EQ in particular will allow me to raise/lower individual frequency ranges and optimise to a degree certain sounds within actual games being played. As an example: If a game for instance has an annoying effect (horse clapping sound of rubber in NFSS2) then that can be tailored and reduced to sound different, perhaps not as prominent and also reduce the tactile strength that effect creates if desired. That effect happens on the surround channels so I go to the EQ that is connected to the surround channels. Then alter the sliders on the EQ that control the frequencies that sound makes. This way only the surround channels have been altered and it wont compensate or ruin the audio on other channels.

Having all this blast the ears off me and using really high volumes is not what its about. However having all that work together in a controlled way and volume should give a very rich gaming experience. I have experienced/tested the tactile on the seat with 7 channel surround at home for almost a year now on a temp setup. It is great but I wanted even better and the experimentation is whole part of this project. The full cockpit will use the better amplification, the EQ and the inclusion of these sub-woofers so I cant wait to experience all that and tweak around with it.


A LOT OF WAFFLE, yes I know and its way OTT. Some wont grasp it all but if people reading don't understand but want to would like it explained better then say guys or PM. The final thread for showing the project will make it more simple to understand with illustrations and simple explanations.

Greeze is the only other guy here I know of that is going to similar levels in his setup...

Edits done/
 
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I am doing what I am calling a mini-latte build :)

4x TT, 1xSub, 2xEQs
But I am going for the create a car cockpit; biggest challenge is fitting it into the second bedroom / office / den.

If it wasn't for the information you had provided I doubt I would have sunk this amount of time and money into the project.

I am initial disappointed with the effects of the TTs; sure the initial kick in the back from a rear end is fun, but what I want is to feel the rumble strips when I pass over them; not found it on any of the channels yet.

I get the feeling that the overall sound quality is like the menu system; you wonder if the people who designed it actual used it!
 
Ahh you mean a skinny Latte version then. :dopey:
PM me sometime with how, what your connecting and the amp etc.
 
Ive just had a OMG this morning...

Actually started calculating the amount of speaker cable Id need for all the speakers and tactile. It wasnt something I gave much thought about earlier but the result kinda shocked me.

Looking for AWG14 / 2.5mm OFC cable to ensure no loss of output over the distance.
Taking into account the wooden base and a 2.5m cable run to where the equipment may be situated. Then the placement of each tactile/speaker on the cockpit I will need approx 120 metres of speaker cable. :scared:
 
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Mr Latte
Ive just had a OMG this morning...

Actually started calculating the amount of speaker cable Id need for all the speakers and tactile. It wasnt something I gave much thought about earlier but the result kinda shocked me.

Looking for AWG14 / 2.5mm OFC cable to ensure no loss of output over the distance.
Taking into account the wooden base and a 2.5m cable run to where the equipment may be situated. Then the placement of each tactile/speaker on the cockpit I will need approx 120 metres of speaker cable. :scared:

Monoprice.com sells good quality cheap speaker cable. 400 feet would cost $82.
 
Thanks, though the problem getting from USA is the import duty and shipping charges. Prices are sometimes much better yeah, even noticed on ebay but when those are added it defeats the savings.

For now Ive ordered 2x 50MTR rolls (330 Feet) of 14AWG OFC that seems to be decent. Got a good deal at £54 but not quite as cheap as you guys in USA can get.

Next stage is to drill holes in the base, for cable runs and also the holes for the chrome speaker stands. Will have that ready for the cable arriving and then lay and clip the cables to the wooden frame.

Still have that rubber flooring we looked at to order. Ive not fully decided yet
what way to finish the top of the base platform.

Below shows the centre sub section increased in size. The wood in the middle is to support the area for standing when getting in/out of the cockpit. Some of the "Fat Mat" was laid for this photo and the "Aura Pro" tactile units for the base installed. I decided not to go for L/R tactile on the "Steering Wheel" platform. So these were implemented into the Base to work in conjunction with the subs for what should be a better effect of stereo panning. They in theory should also improve the audio bass quality being in between the subs and the front speakers.

The "Fat Mat" was then relaid for the centre section. It can be heated with a hair/drier etc to be rubbed in tight to the wooden base but Im not sure the amount of benefit will be worth the effort with such small enclosures.

SUHMg.jpg


2FmUP.jpg


The front pedal section will have its own L/C/R tactile units.
Those will be attacthed to a seperate platform the pedals will be connected to though and not the base itself.
 
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Mr Latte
Thanks, though the problem getting from USA is the import duty and shipping charges. Prices are sometimes much better yeah, even noticed on ebay but when those are added it defeats the savings.

For now Ive ordered 2x 50MTR rolls (330 Feet) of 14AWG OFC that seems to be decent. Got a good deal at £54 but not quite as cheap as you guys in USA can get.

Next stage is to drill holes in the base, for cable runs and also the holes for the chrome speaker stands. Will have that ready for the cable arriving and then lay and clip the cables to the wooden frame.

Still have that rubber flooring we looked at to order. Ive not fully decided yet
what way to finish the top of the base platform.

Below shows the centre sub section increased in size. The wood in the middle is to support the area for standing when getting in/out of the cockpit. Some of the "Fat Mat" was laid for this photo and the "Aura Pro" tactile units for the base installed. I decided not to go for L/R tactile on the "Steering Wheel" platform. So these were implemented into the Base to work in conjunction with the subs for what should be a better effect of stereo panning. They in theory should also improve the audio bass quality being in between the subs and the front speakers.

The "Fat Mat" was then relaid for the centre section. It can be heated with a hair/drier etc to be rubbed in tight to the wooden base but Im not sure the amount of benefit will be worth the effort with such small enclosures.

The front pedal section will have its own L/C/R tactile units.
Those will be attacthed to a seperate platform the pedals will be connected to though and not the base itself.

Have you thought about all the heat your av products are going to produce?
 
Not particulary as its not something Im worring too much over yet.

The main equipment will not be going into this base unit. Ive not decided how/where it will be placed in whatever room. I reckon some thought for ventalation is required yes. In the UK though do remember our climate isn't so much a factor. A small air con unit could be purchased I guess if it was a problem in the summer months. Most of the year here open a window and it should help a lot.

Also I dont think I will be playing on this that often for more than 3-4 hours at a time.
 
....Below shows the centre sub section increased in size.....

The front pedal section will have its own L/C/R tactile units.
Those will be attacthed to a seperate platform the pedals will be connected to though and not the base itself.

The bigger sub enclosure looks good.

Are you saying the front tactiles won't be mounted in the front pedal section itself. But instead mounted on a platform that is then mounted to the front pedal section (front base unit ) ? Will you attempt any vibration isolation in this area ?

It's coming along and looing good.👍

Scotty
 
The bigger sub enclosure looks good.

Are you saying the front tactiles won't be mounted in the front pedal section itself. But instead mounted on a platform that is then mounted to the front pedal section (front base unit ) ? Will you attempt any vibration isolation in this area ?

It's coming along and looing good.👍

Scotty

Okay just to clear this up.
The front base section of the cockpit wont include tactile in it like shown above.

The pedal section is planned to have a primary and secondary platform. I've found from testing this doesn't have to be ran that loud as our feet are very sensitive to tactile anyway's and too loud would be annoying. Some form of isolation will be used to prevent unwanted vibrations.

The primary platform will allow adjustments and contain the tactile for the players feet.
Seat runners will be used on the primary pedal platform for moving it's position forward/aft. I'd like to be able to adjust the angle as well. Their will be a secondary platform made for each set of pedals. Something simple but allowing different pedals to be tightened/attached/removed quickly via bolt type hand-wheels to the primary pedal platform with the tactile.

For example imagine a shelf cut for each set of pedals that is specific for those pedals and secured to them. This then aligns with the bolt holes of the primary platform and the user simply tightens them together. Furthermore with all pedals removed the primary platform can be used as a foot rest for non racing games and enjoyment of music but experiencing the tactile in the feet.

Clever but simple solution is what's wanted.
 
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Well the speaker cable arrived.
Has been eating at me what else I need to get/do to finish this base platform section.

Ive been sizing/costing the Black Perspex that would be used on the sides and top parts of the base. Found a supplier that will also do polished edges if needed. It's a bit hard to swallow as to have this all done cut to sizes and delivered will be upto approx £200.

More or less decided only the mid step on/off section for the seat etc will have the funky metalplating style rubber. So I guess if I want the cockpit to look the part and thats been the goal then I will have to get the funds gathered soon. Things are tight enough at the moment too money wise. However with all this it will then allow me to concentrate on the actual frame and cockpit itself.

Perhaps then this thread might get a bit more interesting to look at than a big wooden box with holes in it.
 
Have some more work planned this weekend guys and will do a small update maybe on Sunday.

Today I ordered the "Rubber Matt / Checker Plate"
Here

140cm x 105cm only £23.00

What are anyones thoughts on the Roll Cage type styling?
 
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A roll cage could be cool. 2" tubing custom made and chromed perhaps?! More expense but hey, in for a penny... lol :)
 
On the roll cage....NO SCREEN OBSTRUCTION. A triple monitor setup has 4 scene breaks, 2 A-pillars and 2 monitor "seams". That's 2 too many already. Adding 2 more obstructions to the primary interface, voluntarily, is just plain as day a logical no go. YMMV but I doubt it.

A roll bar right behind and above the seat would be nice with any additional roll cage below the "greenhouse".

Scotty
 
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